gearing...still

pesky_jones
pesky_jones Posts: 2,890
edited February 2013 in MTB workshop & tech
Still having a nightmare with the gearing set up.

I have a double chainring with bash, its the small chainring with the middle acting as the large and then bash. The casstte is a nine speed 11-32 and the chainrings are 24T and 36T. Ive been fiddling with the Hi and Low screws with no luck. I don't know whether its cables or indexing. The chain has 108 links. Is there anything that i've described that jumps out as being wrong? If not i'm gna take it to lbs because it's been doing my head in.

Comments

  • jimothy78
    jimothy78 Posts: 1,407
    you don't tell us what the problem you're having actually is...
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    If the cables are old, replace them. If the indexing is wrong, read 'Read this first' below and index them properly.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    What relevance is the number of chain links? Chain needs to be sized correctly (big/big without rear mech plus 2 links).
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • pesky_jones
    pesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    jimothy78 wrote:
    you don't tell us what the problem you're having actually is...
    I don't know what the problem is.
    cooldad wrote:
    If the cables are old, replace them. If the indexing is wrong, read 'Read this first' below and index them properly.
    Ok I think it could actually be a mixture of both, cheers
    The Beginner wrote:
    What relevance is the number of chain links? Chain needs to be sized correctly (big/big without rear mech plus 2 links).
    I wasn't sure if it was relevant, cheers will also do the chain sizing
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Can you describe what is wrong then?
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  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    You may not know the problem, but you know the symptom.......
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • pesky_jones
    pesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    The Beginner wrote:
    You may not know the problem, but you know the symptom.......
    haha yeah guess I do - the rear derailleur won't shift far enough to lead the chain to the largest gear on the rear cassette even though I've let the low screw quite far out. The same with the high gear and high screw. The derailleur will go far enough to lead the chain to the right gear if I pull it, which makes me think it might be the cables not tight enough or too old, but I think I have pulled the cable as tight as it can go and it seems to shift fine for the middle gears. And adjusted the barrel at shifters.

    I dont know if that helps..
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Assuming you have a conventional and not a rapid rise rear mech.....

    Access to the largest gear is achieved by slackening the HIGH screw (without allowing it to fall right over it) if that is the issue.

    Access to the smallest gear is controlled by the LOW screw (well it's there to stop it going to far and dropping off the outside)

    Have a read of the parktools guide to Indexing the derailleurs, it sounds like you need the help.

    First stepis setting the low screw so it's running cleanly in the smallest gear without any cable tension
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • pesky_jones
    pesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    Ok I'll have another look at park tools.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    The Beginner wrote:
    Assuming you have a conventional and not a rapid rise rear mech.....

    Access to the largest gear is achieved by slackening the HIGH screw (without allowing it to fall right over it) if that is the issue.

    Access to the smallest gear is controlled by the LOW screw (well it's there to stop it going to far and dropping off the outside)

    Have a read of the parktools guide to Indexing the derailleurs, it sounds like you need the help.

    First stepis setting the low screw so it's running cleanly in the smallest gear without any cable tension
    Except the H screw stops the chain dropping off the highest gear (small cog), not the L. And is the one to set first.
    And the L screw stops the chain dropping into the spokes
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • pesky_jones
    pesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    The Beginner wrote:
    Assuming you have a conventional and not a rapid rise rear mech.....

    Access to the largest gear is achieved by slackening the HIGH screw (without allowing it to fall right over it) if that is the issue.

    Access to the smallest gear is controlled by the LOW screw (well it's there to stop it going to far and dropping off the outside)

    Have a read of the parktools guide to Indexing the derailleurs, it sounds like you need the help.

    First stepis setting the low screw so it's running cleanly in the smallest gear without any cable tension
    Yeah you're right I was doing something wrong with the limit screws.

    I watched this video - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_KNGQFPT9U and now its all shifting perfectly :D

    Going to replace cables anyway as they look quite old, the rear is missing that cable cap thing and is starting to fray. Cheers for help
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    I've said it before, frequently, 99.9999999999% of shifting problems are down to cables. And as cassette spacing gets narrower it will become even more crucial.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Fraying at the tip isn't really an issue, and a brand new cable will be frayed if it gets caught on something......but always make sure your cables are good
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • pesky_jones
    pesky_jones Posts: 2,890
    ok, i know the amount of fraying isnt an issue but I think they`re old so am going to replace. thanks
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Of course. It's on the internet now so must be true.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools

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