Descending....please help
Comments
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deswahriff wrote:paul2718 wrote:If the OP has a wobble at 30mph then there is something wrong that cannot be easily diagnosed on the Internet, nuances of descending style are not the issue. It's a not uncommon speed on slight gradients especially with a tail wind.
I'd say, back to the bike shop and get it checked out.
Paul
...thank you, Paul, agreed! I've given up trying to point this out!
If it really was the bike at 30mph I would expect it to be a problem that would be evident at slower speeds too.
More likely the OP is so tensed that any road movements are transferred into the steering due to his death grip on the bars/poor position etc.Yellow is the new Black.0 -
Shift weight back and support yourself on your feet rather than the saddle, knees bent. Relaxed grip in the drops, elbows bent. Outside foot down in the corners.
If you are getting oscillation at speed check your headset is correctly preloaded, your wheels are radially and laterally true and your tyre beads for correct seating. You can do a quick test of the wheels by placing the bicycle on its bars and saddle and giving each wheel in turn a vigorous spin; if it has a significant imbalance the frame will hop around.
MichaelW - frame manufacturers (the reputable ones at least) do not just throw random forks and frames together as you suggest.- - - - - - - - - -
On Strava.{/url}0 -
Its not about leverage at all, if brakes and hoods set up right you can brake as effectively on the hoods as drops, if you have to use that much force on the drops to brake something is wrong with bike or your technique.smidsy wrote:I never said anything about more aero.
I never said brake in the corners.
I never said hold tight.
Regarding braking - it's physics, don't blame me. Leverage.
Feathering breaks on long descents is not a good idea.
Regarding bumby conditions, it's not about the level of grip you have it is about having lots of bar to hold onto if your hands get jolted. On the hoods this becomes less so.
Anyway as I said it does not mean you can not use the hoods, simply that IME and evidence at large it is generally considered better for most to be in the drops. Obviously you prefer the hoods. (are you black)
OP you need to experiment and see what is best for you.
I only said feather brakes before bend not on the whole descent. That applies whether your on a very steep or less steep descent.0 -
smidsy wrote:@EPO - Luckily not everyone takes things as literal as you. Obviously I was trying to describe what the defining sides of the road may be, as they do not always have kerbs. But if discrediting me is that important to you then so be it.
Edit: Having re-read this tonight I must also add...nice over dramatisation...you will be killed etc. FFS! :roll:
I know what you were trying to describe, you just didn't describe it well. Considering you are meant to be a 'motorbike instructor' of 15 years. Well welcome to the gang as i've been riding a motorbike for 25 years.
As for discrediting you, ive done nothing of the sort, ive simply put your statement right and if we are talking about 'discrediting' then maybe you ought to look over some of your posts to me and other people. Im not the only person you have done it too, so maybe you ought to look in the mirror?
Also, there is no 'over-dramatisation' of following someones advice that is wrong and could potentially throw you into a position whilst riding a bike that you shouldnt have been in ie: the other side of the road doing 20mph in front of a car coming at you at 35mph. Doesnt take a genius to work out the outcome wouldnt be too good for the cyclist.
If you're re-reading posts at night may i suggest you need to chill out a bit, its not a fight, relax, you dont have to be right all the time, let the cycling Ego float away, there are others who rides bikes besides yourself.
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EPO Delivery Man wrote:smidsy wrote:@EPO - Luckily not everyone takes things as literal as you. Obviously I was trying to describe what the defining sides of the road may be, as they do not always have kerbs. But if discrediting me is that important to you then so be it.
Edit: Having re-read this tonight I must also add...nice over dramatisation...you will be killed etc. FFS! :roll:
I know what you were trying to describe, you just didn't describe it well. Considering you are meant to be a 'motorbike instructor' of 15 years. Well welcome to the gang as i've been riding a motorbike for 25 years.
As for discrediting you, ive done nothing of the sort, ive simply put your statement right and if we are talking about 'discrediting' then maybe you ought to look over some of your posts to me and other people. Im not the only person you have done it too, so maybe you ought to look in the mirror?
Also, there is no 'over-dramatisation' of following someones advice that is wrong and could potentially throw you into a position whilst riding a bike that you shouldnt have been in ie: the other side of the road doing 20mph in front of a car coming at you at 35mph. Doesnt take a genius to work out the outcome wouldnt be too good for the cyclist.
If you're re-reading posts at night may i suggest you need to chill out a bit, its not a fight, relax, you dont have to be right all the time, let the cycling Ego float away, there are others who rides bikes besides yourself.
Excellent advice that you should also follow yourself.
To the OP - speed wobbles should generally occur at higher speeds than 30mph - get your bike checked out and get a more experienced rider to try your bike out on a descent.0 -
EPO Delivery Man wrote:I know what you were trying to describe, you just didn't describe it well. Considering you are meant to be a 'motorbike instructor' of 15 years. Well welcome to the gang as i've been riding a motorbike for 25 years.
As for discrediting you, ive done nothing of the sort, ive simply put your statement right
So now you need to be a better motorcylist than me too. Wow you must be really good. :oops:
How long do you suppose someone has been riding bikes if they have been instructing people how to race for 15 years?
My statement was 100% correct, you simply chose to interpret it in such a way as to question it. I could have used the technical terms I suppose but thought that a simpler set of language would be more beneficial.
Still the main thing is that the technique has now be well and truly explained.
If you do not like that I have questioned some of your posts, perhaps you should make them more agreeable. :roll:Yellow is the new Black.0 -
smidsy wrote:IME it makes complete sense to use the drops when descending. As already mentioned you can break better from there, you have more control from there and you are less likely to loose grip if the road surface is not the best.
Hopefully it makes it easier to brake, rather than to break (something)!
These tips might be helpful: http://www.cyclingtips.com.au/2010/04/descending-tips/.0
