Help me go 2 x 9 !

Plyphon

Hiya,

I'm aware this has be covered 1000's of times but I still have quite a bit of confusion, combined with lacking product specs online so I thought I'd ask here!

Cranks: XT M770
Front Mech: XT Tripple Mech (Unsure what one exactly)
9 speed out back.

Am I right in thinking this bash will work (replacing the big ring):
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=40144

(Are there any similarly priced alternatives you would suggest?)

Current chain rings are the standard 22, 32, 44. I'm going to go up to 34 or 36 on the middle, will this:

A: Effect shifting? I can't remember the shifting gap tolerances.
B: Chain length - should just work as it is, right? (Ideal world shortening would happen also)

I'm looking at this middle ring:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... odelID=435

Can anyone confirm it should work? (I can't see the BCD written anywhere )
Or, can anyone recommend better/cheaper alternatives?

Is there anything I have missed?

Cheers!

Chunkers1980

Yeah do nothing and treat you big ring as a bash. If you don't bash it you'll be able to use it.

Plyphon

I would like to remove the big ring and replace it with a bash ring.

rockmonkeysc

Chunkers1980 wrote:

Yeah do nothing and treat you big ring as a bash. If you don't bash it you'll be able to use it.

I thought that until I bent a big ring which meant that I could only use the granny ring. I also have a big ring scar on my ankle, that one really hurt!

Replace the big ring with a bash and adjust the stop screw on the front mech to limit it to the middle ring.

bennett_346

Chunkers1980 wrote:

Yeah do nothing and treat you big ring as a bash. If you don't bash it you'll be able to use it.

That sounds like a crap idea.

Chunkers1980

Why? It's what I do. Still using the big ring till this day.

The Rookie

I still have the 'chainring tattoo' - smooth bash for me thanks!

Chunkers1980

What's all this tattooing going on? You don't use it to bash your leg your know?

The Rookie

Crash, chainring hits back or front of lower leg and leaves a row of puncture wounds, ouch. Would have been OK if the chain was round the large ring, but it wasn't.

rockmonkeysc

The Beginner wrote:

Crash, chainring hits back or front of lower leg and leaves a row of puncture wounds, ouch. Would have been OK if the chain was round the large ring, but it wasn't.

I have a lovely scar on my calf. A perfect big ring shape in blood.

TimB34

This is pretty much my current plan too, except that I'm looking at a Deore steel 36t ring (much cheaper and should last for ages but not much heavier).

The 4-bolt Blackspire ring you linked to has "104/36" printed on it in the photos, so it's probably safe to assume 104mm BCD.

For the moment I'm not planning on using a bash - chances are in any crashes at more than about 7km/h I'll have the chain on the bigger ring, I rarely hit the current 44t ring on rocks/logs and bashguards aren't cheap! It does mean that I'll either have to buy short bolts, cut the tabs off the old big ring or buy a load of washers though.

I think I'll start without and add one later if I keep dropping the chain off the outside.

From what I've read, shifting should be OK - 22 & 36 is what Shimano supply on the 9-speed M665 SLX crankset and I don't think that there's a specific front mech that has to be used for that. The triple front mechs already cover from 22 to 44 and there isn't that much vertical movement as they go from little to big.

Chain length and rear mech cage length - again from what I've read you can shorten the chain by a couple of links (I've seen recommendations for using the ordinary big-big plus two links measurement, but also a couple of people who have recommended going slightly longer) and go to a shorter cage rear mech. Both of these things are supposed to make rear shifting and chain retention a bit better, but it's not essential. I'm looking at a new chain and cassette anyway so will probably shorten the chain but keep the same rear mech.

I had a test week where I adjusted the front mech stop to stop shifting to the big ring - I found that I had to change the cable tension slightly to let me use the full range at the back without the chain touching the front mech cage at the extremme top or bottom end: slightly fiddley but works fine when set.

Plyphon

Good post, thanks Tim.

Will I have to change my mech if I want to just shorten the chain slightly?

I think I'm going to go 36t on the middle so might just leave the chain and see if there are any issues first.

bennett_346

Chunkers1980 wrote:

Why? It's what I do. Still using the big ring till this day.

Presumably you never ride anything where clearance over obstacles is an issue then. Maybe you just ride towpaths i dunno.

Plyphon

TimB34 wrote:

This is pretty much my current plan too, except that I'm looking at a Deore steel 36t ring (much cheaper and should last for ages but not much heavier).

Also - Could you link me to this chainring please? Always keen for saving money!

Chunkers1980

bennett_346 wrote:

Chunkers1980 wrote:

Why? It's what I do. Still using the big ring till this day.

Presumably you never ride anything where clearance over obstacles is an issue then. Maybe you just ride towpaths i dunno.

No, you don't, do you.

bennett_346

Chunkers1980 wrote:

bennett_346 wrote:

Chunkers1980 wrote:

Why? It's what I do. Still using the big ring till this day.

Presumably you never ride anything where clearance over obstacles is an issue then. Maybe you just ride towpaths i dunno.

No, you don't, do you.

Useful man of the year here.

Chunkers1980

What are you on about?

You seem to be trying to pick holes and fights.

Op asked for cheaper solutions.

I think people see all the latest SRAM and shimano chainsets in 2x format and think they need some of that.

Learning when you'll hit your ring and having the skills not to in my opinion is much more useful as you get to keep your big ring. It not really going to go away, less than 11t rears don't really hold up in the long term durability stakes.

bennett_346

He already said twice he wants to remove the big ring and fit a bash guard, so how does telling him to keep the big ring solve his problem? It's already been explained that the downsides are the lack of protection against your leg in crashes and i mentioned the lack of ground clearance versus a bash guard. You kept rambling on about some nonsense nobody cares about. And for the record how exactly does skill let you clear things like fallen logs when your big ring is physically too big to fit your bike over? Short of becoming a trials rider there isn't much you can do to negotiate that kind of thing except ride over it with more clearance and a bashguard to prevent damage.

Chunkers1980

Did you read the thread?

It was suggested as the first reply.

You could have the skill to fully hop over perhaps? Not rely on a fail safe and not knowing you bike's peramiters?

Proutster

Keep it up you two, this is entertaining

There's only one way to solve this though:

bennett_346

Tbh theres not much to argue against. He's right though, why pay £20 for something when you can use something that's more expensive to replace when it breaks, has less clearance over obstacles, and shreds your leg open when you fall off?

Plyphon

Not to mention shred my waterproofs.

(Which is what started my 2 x 9 & bash curiosity.)

Chunkers1980

Wouldn't that be a trouser guard/ cycle clip solution rather than losing your big few gears?

TimB34

Plyphon wrote:

TimB34 wrote:

This is pretty much my current plan too, except that I'm looking at a Deore steel 36t ring (much cheaper and should last for ages but not much heavier).

Also - Could you link me to this chainring please? Always keen for saving money!

Something like this
http://www.rose-vpc.fr/article/shimano- ... aid:415844
or
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-104-pcd ... chainring/

(I'm not sure what the difference between M590 and M510 is - I think they're basically the same but for slightly different cranksets. Hopefully it's nothing that a bit of minor filing won't sort out)

Cheapest bashguards I've seen are these:
http://www.bbgbashguard.com/Mountainbike.html

Plyphon

Awesome, cheers Tim.

cycleclinic

If you are going to use a 36 middle ring fit a 24 or 26T inner, other wise the jump in ratio may have you changing rings often. Your terrain though should dictate the rings you should use.

I have used triples for years and never dented an outer. Still I went from 3x9 to 2x9 with bash but them I ended up on 1x9 then single speed. Run a bash and 36-24T if that suits.

ddraver

If its a standard 3x9 set up at the moment then you can just put a 36 tooth middle ring and a bash ring. Just readjust the Front mech - Note that you can also drop it down a little bit too as it does nt need to be high enough to clear the outer ring.

It works "fine" But I went to a proper 2x10 XT set up and it was much better. Not enough to warrant spending money on though until you ve ridden the old 3 x 9 stuff into the ground

ianm7222

Cheap option is to file the teeth off the big ring and adjust front mech for granny and middle ring and shorten chain.
No cost involved, no tattoo on back of leg 5mm more clearance. and a little lighter too.

you could grab an old big ring off ebay for a couple of quid, if you wanted to save your original in case you wanted to swap back to a triple..... 8)

Plyphon

My bash arrived today, I will fit tonight

I'm going to leave it 32t in the middle for now as I'm unfit. If I find I'm spinning out I can always go to 36t as the bash I bought is big enough..!

Cheers all.

TimB34

My new 36t ring, short bolts, cassette, chain and jockey wheels are in the post!

Which bashguard did you go for?

Plyphon

For some reason I seem to think I'm flush with money so I bought an EThirteen Turbocharger bash, which for what its worth, is a very nice little thing and well made but probably not worth the pretty-much-£40 it costs unless you REALLY like the design.

I fit it all last night, works a treat, looks swish, shifts fine, etc. Dialled.