Best upgrades, accessories and purchases for a BEGINNER
Comments
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The single best value for money investment you can make when cycling is to get a good bike fit, preferably one that involves you actually riding a bike.
There is no point spending thousands on gear if you have a posture like a sack of potatoes.
This applies even more so if you are a beginner, since it means you will develop good cycling habits from the start.Martin S. Newbury RC0 -
Charlie Potatoes wrote:A lightweight bike is likely to be of greater benefit to a weaker rider than a stronger one.
Ironically, this is correct.
But what are the tenets of the 'Bike is better than me' theory? I'm glad you asked.
The basic postulate is that most amateurs do not have the physical conditioning or discipline of grand tour professionals. They - like most amateurs - may not have spent the time with power meters, Wattbikes and coaches figuring out what power output they can produce for what duration, but nevertheless, Average Cyril Cyclist probably won't produce the same consistency on multiple runs of the same course that Brad Wiggins will; no matter what bike he has. If even with the best equipment he does not deliver the best possible performance of which he is capable, the equipment isn't inadequate for his needs, and it isn't holding him back. It is therefore - in a manner of speaking - better than he is.
If not-so-average Norman - a stronger, fitter rider of about the same height and weight as Cyril - can go up a hill on his 10kg 531 bike much faster than Cyril can on his flashy carbon fibre machine, should Cyril train hard until he can keep up with Norman on an identical bike, it might be expected that Cyril would achieve a faster time up Mont Ventoux were he to ride his flashy bike whilst Norman rode his trusty steed. But then again, Cyril might just be having a good day. :roll:
It makes sense. Really. I think.
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Agree with most of the advice posted, however I also think the average cyclist can get too bogged down with saving weight here and there.
My brother has just taken up cycling and bought a Triban 3 (£300) and had very minimal upgrades etc. Since he has had it he's gone out 3 or 4 times a week (lucky him!!) and put loads of effort into riding hard, eating healthy and training well. The satisfaction he gets overtaking ( and I know you don't know all the details of others rides) people on bike 10x the cost of the one he's on!
I suppose this all boils down to spending as much as you can afford but there's no point in upgrading to a carbon seat post if you're just going to eat shite and not look after the engine!
Most of all ........ do what you enjoy!0 -
Simon Masterson wrote:Charlie Potatoes wrote:A lightweight bike is likely to be of greater benefit to a weaker rider than a stronger one.
Ironically, this is correct.
But what are the tenets of the 'Bike is better than me' theory? I'm glad you asked.
The basic postulate is that most amateurs do not have the physical conditioning or discipline of grand tour professionals. They - like most amateurs - may not have spent the time with power meters, Wattbikes and coaches figuring out what power output they can produce for what duration, but nevertheless, Average Cyril Cyclist probably won't produce the same consistency on multiple runs of the same course that Brad Wiggins will; no matter what bike he has. If even with the best equipment he does not deliver the best possible performance of which he is capable, the equipment isn't inadequate for his needs, and it isn't holding him back. It is therefore - in a manner of speaking - better than he is.
If not-so-average Norman - a stronger, fitter rider of about the same height and weight as Cyril - can go up a hill on his 10kg 531 bike much faster than Cyril can on his flashy carbon fibre machine, should Cyril train hard until he can keep up with Norman on an identical bike, it might be expected that Cyril would achieve a faster time up Mont Ventoux were he to ride his flashy bike whilst Norman rode his trusty steed. But then again, Cyril might just be having a good day. :roll:
It makes sense. Really. I think.
Simon,
I think that you are overcomplicating things a little here.
Anyone who thinks that their bike is better than them is suffering from low self esteem. 8)"You really think you can burn off sugar with exercise?" downhill paul0 -
Nice list and fair comments in reply but pretty tough given it's the beginner's section.
when I think back the other things I really thought made a difference to my early riding will have been:
Decent shorts for comfort
Decent shoes with stiff sole for under-foot comfort
Decent saddle which is a really personal thing but worth pursuing until you are happy
Cheap cycling glasses to keep out the wind, the insects and the stones kicked up by cars
Bib tights (3/4 are my preference) which give warmth to the lower back and kidneys and the same for the knees in much of our riding conditions
Warm tougher socks which help in much of our riding conditions
Thin base-layer gloves under normal gloves for autumn and spring
Rear lights on seat post and in back of cycling helmet
Good lights which allow you to see as well as be seen meaning helmet-mounted light and bar mounted light
Nothing is cheap in cycling but none of it is up there with frames, wheels, high-end groupset upgrades or boutique clothing with the possible exception of the expense of good front lights if you don't want to go a DX route.0 -
paul64 wrote:Nice list and fair comments in reply but pretty tough given it's the beginner's section.
when I think back the other things I really thought made a difference to my early riding will have been:
Decent shorts for comfort
Decent shoes with stiff sole for under-foot comfort
Decent saddle which is a really personal thing but worth pursuing until you are happy
Cheap cycling glasses to keep out the wind, the insects and the stones kicked up by cars
Bib tights (3/4 are my preference) which give warmth to the lower back and kidneys and the same for the knees in much of our riding conditions
Warm tougher socks which help in much of our riding conditions
Thin base-layer gloves under normal gloves for autumn and spring
Rear lights on seat post and in back of cycling helmet
Good lights which allow you to see as well as be seen meaning helmet-mounted light and bar mounted light
Nothing is cheap in cycling but none of it is up there with frames, wheels, high-end groupset upgrades or boutique clothing with the possible exception of the expense of good front lights if you don't want to go a DX route.
Completely agree with most of your suggestions and simply didn't get round to posting them in the OP as I was getting bored! I started it to help out BEGINNERS who might not know where to start but do appreciate all the input and responses.
The shorts / undershorts are IMO a vital purchase if you are going to be regularly doing 30 mile + rides. Apart from anything else in this sort of weather they keep your arse a lot warmer!
Socks is also a good call.
And "Cheap cycling glasses" is another thing I have found absolutely necessary that ensure that you don't start "crying" in this weather. I use these http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=40013 just with the clear lenses - which are actually mirrored and find them excellent.
Also "Rear lights on seat post" One of the 1st things I did when I got my road bike was remove the reflectors and bell which are only fitted to comply with the law. I have replaced the reflectors with various LED lights from Smart, Knog and even used Phaart lights from Planet X http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/c/q/lights
And I run them all the time, day or night. They use either AA, AAA or CR032 batteries which are widely available and cheap from the £ shops or the internet or if you feel bad about wasting energy on their manufacture buy some rechargeables!!
"Nothing is cheap in cycling " - I'd have to disagree as I don't think the links I have posted are particularly expensive. It would be nice if EVERY cyclist spent £10 buying at least some lights and would go a long way to easing the relationship between certain motorists and cyclists.
Perhaps the government should amend the legislation so that instead of new bikes being sold with useless reflectors and bells they were sold with basic LED lights and reflective stickers on the seatpost or stays and they advised cyclists to be polite and say "excuse me please" if they are using a shared cycle path instead of ringing their bells and expecting walkers to respond like Pavlov's dogs!0 -
Charlie Potatoes wrote:Simon Masterson wrote:Charlie Potatoes wrote:A lightweight bike is likely to be of greater benefit to a weaker rider than a stronger one.
Ironically, this is correct.
But what are the tenets of the 'Bike is better than me' theory? I'm glad you asked.
The basic postulate is that most amateurs do not have the physical conditioning or discipline of grand tour professionals. They - like most amateurs - may not have spent the time with power meters, Wattbikes and coaches figuring out what power output they can produce for what duration, but nevertheless, Average Cyril Cyclist probably won't produce the same consistency on multiple runs of the same course that Brad Wiggins will; no matter what bike he has. If even with the best equipment he does not deliver the best possible performance of which he is capable, the equipment isn't inadequate for his needs, and it isn't holding him back. It is therefore - in a manner of speaking - better than he is.
If not-so-average Norman - a stronger, fitter rider of about the same height and weight as Cyril - can go up a hill on his 10kg 531 bike much faster than Cyril can on his flashy carbon fibre machine, should Cyril train hard until he can keep up with Norman on an identical bike, it might be expected that Cyril would achieve a faster time up Mont Ventoux were he to ride his flashy bike whilst Norman rode his trusty steed. But then again, Cyril might just be having a good day. :roll:
It makes sense. Really. I think.
Simon,
I think that you are overcomplicating things a little here.
Anyone who thinks that their bike is better than them is suffering from low self esteem. 8)
'Overcomplicating things a little'!? I protest; gross understatement. 0 -
Apologies Simon - it appears that I was a massive Twad, sorry ... goes and hides like Alan Partridge would!0
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Gotta say, an 11-23 cassette is pretty hardcore for a beginner. Many hills round your way, or do you just like grinding it?0
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I too am a beginner and have a triple. 52x42x30 and a 12-28T cassette. I will take my hat off (and the rest of my clothes) to any beginner who can regularly spin out on 52x12.0
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Yeah, you'd have to be pretty damn fit to be doing that - and yet you read it all the time, especially from beginners: I need to change my gearing 'cuz I'm always spinning out....Ballysmate wrote:I too am a beginner and have a triple. 52x42x30 and a 12-28T cassette. I will take my hat off (and the rest of my clothes) to any beginner who can regularly spin out on 52x12.0 -
That's because they usually forget to change gear.
Most of the changes on tha list are pointless for a beginner. Tools, tubes a pump for the road, and suitable clothing should be the first you should look at.0 -
HeatherMillsLeg wrote:Apologies Simon - it appears that I was a massive Twad, sorry ... goes and hides like Alan Partridge would!
That's quite alright - to be fair my tone around here is often fairly facetious anyway, so I can't begrudge anyone assuming I might be making snide comments! 0 -
+1Strith wrote:That's because they usually forget to change gear.
Most of the changes on tha list are pointless for a beginner. Tools, tubes a pump for the road, and suitable clothing should be the first you should look at.0 -
Strith wrote:That's because they usually forget to change gear.
Most of the changes on tha list are pointless for a beginner. Tools, tubes a pump for the road, and suitable clothing should be the first you should look at.
I would have thought the OP was assuming that sort of thing gets bought when someone buys their bike. I took his list to be for people who have been cycling for a short time and are starting to look at the next stage.0 -
Hoopdriver wrote:
Yeah, you'd have to be pretty damn fit to be doing that - and yet you read it all the time, especially from beginners: I need to change my gearing 'cuz I'm always spinning out....Ballysmate wrote:I too am a beginner and have a triple. 52x42x30 and a 12-28T cassette. I will take my hat off (and the rest of my clothes) to any beginner who can regularly spin out on 52x12.
Haven't said "I'm always spinning out" once.
"Gotta say, an 11-23 cassette is pretty hardcore for a beginner. Many hills round your way, or do you just like grinding it?"
It really isn't when you are a running a triple which I alluded to. I was spinning out in top gear going downhill on my stock set up.
Seems to me "spinning out" means to people on this forum that's what people are doing on the flat and are kind of missing the point...
IMO if you are spinning out going down hills in your top gear - it's time to get a smaller cassette if you want to go faster!
Thank you Pross, I think!!? -V
"I would have thought the OP was assuming that sort of thing gets bought when someone buys their bike. I took his list to be for people who have been cycling for a short time and are starting to look at the next stage."
This is a BEGINNERS forum as I'm sure most people can read.
It was started for people who, like me when I took up road cycling, didn't really have a clue - and still don't really! It is certainly not a "show off" or "technical" post - just a helpful one!
Once I had a go I realised there were certain things that I had to purchase to enhance the experience. But, in my case anyway, without spending a fortune. Things like undershorts / shorts, SPD pedals etc.
Any possibility the elitists, poseurs could not post unless you are helping out? There are plenty of other threads to post your opinion on or get into a debate about..
Personally I think one of the worst things about cycling is the "cliquey" - "mines better than yours" culture that is prevalent.
Proper, decent cyclists couldn't give a toss about this posing but there you go...
For some bizarre reason they appear on a BEGINNERS forum!0 -
Pross wrote:Strith wrote:That's because they usually forget to change gear.
Most of the changes on tha list are pointless for a beginner. Tools, tubes a pump for the road, and suitable clothing should be the first you should look at.
I would have thought the OP was assuming that sort of thing gets bought when someone buys their bike. I took his list to be for people who have been cycling for a short time and are starting to look at the next stage.
Yeah fair point, but if it's meant to be a catch all list for beginners I think you should include tools, tube etc.
As for spinning out going down hill, an 11 tooth sprocket is the smallest I'm aware you can get on any cassette, so going from a 12 to 11 toooth is practically pointless. If you really are spinning out going down hill you'd be better off changing your chainrings, or as most people find out learning to move your legs faster.0 -
HeatherMillsLeg wrote:IMO if you are spinning out going down hills in your top gear - it's time to get a smaller cassette if you want to go faster!
To be honest, once you are up at the sort of speeds where you can spin out a 52 x 12 (to me spinning out would be at least 120rpm but probably more like 140) you are probably better off just freewheeling and getting into a ski style aero position. 52 x 12 at 120rpm equates to over 40mph so it's a serious speed for a beginner even on a descent. I've never used a bigger gear than 52 x 12 in 20 odd years of cycling. The highest speed I've ever recorded was in a junior road race, descending a mountain on a closed road, 56mph on a junior gear restriction of 52 x 15 (not an attempt at willy waving, just trying to illustrate a point).
If you find that extra gear beneficial for you then that's obviously your call but in general, and baring in mind most riders will be on a compact or double as well, I think a beginner is better off having the extra bigger sprockets to help them on climbs but then gearing is very much a personal thing. I just don't think an 11-23 should be in a list of best upgrades.0 -
Pross wrote:HeatherMillsLeg wrote:IMO if you are spinning out going down hills in your top gear - it's time to get a smaller cassette if you want to go faster!
To be honest, once you are up at the sort of speeds where you can spin out a 52 x 12 (to me spinning out would be at least 120rpm but probably more like 140) you are probably better off just freewheeling and getting into a ski style aero position. 52 x 12 at 120rpm equates to over 40mph so it's a serious speed for a beginner even on a descent. I've never used a bigger gear than 52 x 12 in 20 odd years of cycling. The highest speed I've ever recorded was in a junior road race, descending a mountain on a closed road, 56mph on a junior gear restriction of 52 x 15 (not an attempt at willy waving, just trying to illustrate a point).
If you find that extra gear beneficial for you then that's obviously your call but in general, and baring in mind most riders will be on a compact or double as well, I think a beginner is better off having the extra bigger sprockets to help them on climbs but then gearing is very much a personal thing. I just don't think an 11-23 should be in a list of best upgrades.
No "willy waving" was intended here! I genuinely thought that was what I changed the cassette to but from the comments I am probably wrong.
Definitely a 12-28 on my hybrid. Will have to look up what I actually have.
But in all honesty it's irrelevant. It was a lot cheaper to change the cassette than start changing chainrings...0 -
HeatherMillsLeg wrote:No "willy waving" was intended here! I genuinely thought that was what I changed the cassette to but from the comments I am probably wrong.
Definitely a 12-28 on my hybrid. Will have to look up what I actually have.
But in all honesty it's irrelevant. It was a lot cheaper to change the cassette than start changing chainrings...
No accussation intended. You may well have that cassette fitted, with a 30t chainring on a triple it would give a marginally higher gear than someone riding a compact with 34 x 25 so fine for the hills. I suspect the spinning out is down to a preference for riding a lower cadence and perhaps finding anything over 100rpm a bit uncomfortable which is pretty common.0 -
Pross wrote:HeatherMillsLeg wrote:No "willy waving" was intended here! I genuinely thought that was what I changed the cassette to but from the comments I am probably wrong.
Definitely a 12-28 on my hybrid. Will have to look up what I actually have.
But in all honesty it's irrelevant. It was a lot cheaper to change the cassette than start changing chainrings...
No accussation intended. You may well have that cassette fitted, with a 30t chainring on a triple it would give a marginally higher gear than someone riding a compact with 34 x 25 so fine for the hills. I suspect the spinning out is down to a preference for riding a lower cadence and perhaps finding anything over 100rpm a bit uncomfortable which is pretty common.
You're probably right. Perhaps the phrase "spinning out" was wrong by me. The specs of my bike initially are here http://www.evanscycles.com/products/specialized/allez-24-2011-road-bike-ec025026 unfortunately I can't find what I got on the replacement rear wheel and too bone idle to go and check! Pretty certain I got a 23 but may be 12 instead of 11.
The hills that I go down, and have to climb so I have kept the triple - I could only get around 35 and then ran out half way down. Annoying if you want to go faster!
Think the max I have got is about 43 with this "upgrade". To me, that is a decent increase and well worth the minimal cost. I have absolutely no reason to lie about anything, do I?
My "average" speed for sport is around 13 MPH. I'm certain it would be a lot more if I didn't have to ride 13 miles of urban before I actually got to the countryside and measured it from there!!0 -
You can maybe find a slightly higher top gear but for a given descent and conditions, all that will happen is that the point at which you feel like you are spinning out will perhaps be a little later and at a little higher speed.
Once you are going really quickly, the gradient and wind conditions are what really determine your speed - the personal effort required to go faster gets much greater so in practice has little effect.Faster than a tent.......0 -
Rolf F wrote:You can maybe find a slightly higher top gear but for a given descent and conditions, all that will happen is that the point at which you feel like you are spinning out will perhaps be a little later and at a little higher speed.
Once you are going really quickly, the gradient and wind conditions are what really determine your speed - the personal effort required to go faster gets much greater so in practice has little effect.
Possibly. Although I'd say an 8MPH difference - from 35 - 43 MPH is statistically significant.
Not really why I posted initially for beginners. That can all be discussed here http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=40020&t=12583566
As a beginner what purchases would you recommend?
Cheers0 -
HeatherMillsLeg wrote:Possibly. Although I'd say an 8MPH difference - from 35 - 43 MPH is statistically significant.
I'd agree with you there - but I don't think the gearing would get you that difference. The chart here is pretty useful - http://www.bikecalc.com/gear_speed
If you go to 50 on the ring assuming you are on a compact, the normal smallest cog argument is between 11 and 12. At 90 rpm, 12 gets you 29.9 mph and 11 32.7 mph.
At 100 rpm, it's 32.6 and 35.6. Still only 3mph.
At 110rpm. it's 35.9, 39.2 = 3.3 mph difference.
Even at 120 rpm the difference is still only 3.5 mph - then you really are spinning out but you probably felt you were at 110. At those speeds, other things than your gears will be controlling your maximum speed. In reality, I suspect the difference would be less than 3mph given either 11 or 12 teeth on your cassettes smallest cog.
There's a hill on one of my commute routes that normally I'd hit high 30s on. But air temperature and wind strength and direction vary that from about 19 mph to a good 45 mph plus. The gears I'm using seem to have little impact.
A great purchase to recommend to a beginner would be a basic toolkit - something like this one. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ICETOOLZ-Cycl ... 2c64ff8c88 - don't get one that's too cheap (the Aldi ones aren't great) but ones by Icetoolz I think are OK. I got one when I started and have used every tool in the box.Faster than a tent.......0 -
Rolf F wrote:A great purchase to recommend to a beginner would be a basic toolkit - something like this one. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ICETOOLZ-Cycl ... 2c64ff8c88 - don't get one that's too cheap (the Aldi ones aren't great) but ones by Icetoolz I think are OK. I got one when I started and have used every tool in the box.
No offence Rolf but too technical for me - I can't keep up!
But that link is good for what I initially posted about - cheers.
I have learnt about what is important to buy and what isn't - via buying it - and costing me money!
E.G. clipless, shorts / undershorts, gloves - a cage & bottle are VITAL imo - start from there..0 -
Cheap Bottle cage here http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006CSE15O/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01
Personally never spent more than £4 on one.
Damn cheap for these - mixed reviews - black for an extra 5p0
