Mudguards Raceblades Long or Crud Roadracer?

on-yer-bike

I think I may finally be succumbing to fitting mudguards. As there are no fittings on the frame I need either of the two mentioned but which ones? Is it a pain with the SKS if you need to remove a wheel because the supports go under the QRs?

ride_whenever

Raceblades xl every single time.

Far tidier and much much much more durable. The qr axle tabs aren't really an issue as you simply remove the qr tabs from the mudguard (it's on a little catch) and leave the tabs on the wheel.

rolf_f

Cruds every single time

Much nicer looking and more effective in terms of coverage but it does depend on clearances. My Ribble is a tight fit with 23mm tyres. Others have loads of space with 25s.

They are perfectly durable too - I have mine on the Ribble year round. They've probably covered over 5000 miles. I have got a split in the top of the rear arch but that was down to bad luck and the tight clearances - the weather early this winter generated a sticky sandy mud that was a perfect grinding paste and it wore the plastic away! It's not happened before and it might not again! But if it does, I'll know to do something about it! I've got a spare for that bit anyway so I'll fit it once the winter ends (if it does.....).

antfly

It has to be the cruds if they fit, almost as good as full guards and you hardly notice them. Raceblades keep the dirt off your back but dump it on the bike..I have used both also.

napoleond

Everyone with race blades will say race blades. Everyone with cruds will say cruds. Pointless asking, may as well bite the bullet and buy whichever and see how you get on.

Fwiw I hated race blades, got on very well with cruds.

turnerjohn

as per Nap.....but I saw a review of the XL's (cycling plus or cycling weekly I forget which) who said they were rubbish !
Their also far heavier :shock:
personally cruds every time; had the standard RaceBlades and they just don't cover enough tyre !

gsk82

i've had both and much prefer the cruds.

they feel flimsy and you get a bit of rubbing if they aren't rinsed through a puddle occasionally but once they're on they give good coverage, including the front mech and the back of your legs. i could never get the raceblades to stay on straight and anyone behind got a soaking. they keep your own arse dry and thats about it.

sunburntknees

gsk82 wrote:

i've had both and much prefer the cruds.

they feel flimsy and you get a bit of rubbing if they aren't rinsed through a puddle occasionally but once they're on they give good coverage, including the front mech and the back of your legs. i could never get the raceblades to stay on straight and anyone behind got a soaking. they keep your own ars* dry and thats about it.

He's asking about the Raceblade Longs. They are more like a full length guard and have a flap on the bottom, so riders behind get more protection.

spasypaddy

i have both, and i much prefer the raceblade longs. ive lost count the amount of times ive broke a part of the crud guards.

KonaMike

I had Raceblades for a week and got fed up with the rattling,plus the lack of brake caliper coverage.
Also i thought they looked a bit clunky and old fashioned
Fitted Crud roadracer 2's with some cutting and fiddling and have never looked back.

rolf_f

I suspect Cruds do require a certain amount of mechanical sympathy that maybe the Raceblades don't. The number of people that complain about how hard the Cruds are to fit and how easy they are to break can't be ignored even if I can't work out what people are doing to break them

Chances are, if you fall over a lot and bump into things (not necessarily on the bike!), Cruds aren't going to be for you. But still, the coverage is better and that's worth bearing in mind - the part of the guard that protects the front mech is worth it's weight in gold and the missing sections of the Raceblades under the brakes are exactly where you don't want a missing section (ie where the brakes send dirty spray out in all directions).

daffyavfc

I'm needing exactly the same, need some for my roadie after joining a cycling club and spayed everyone behind me last week, went down well!
just seen this and opting for the cruds, like how it attaches and also Aesthetically pleasing

http://road.cc/content/review/33843-cru ... -mudguards

smidsy

Be aware that even with cruds fitted it does not stop ALL the spray.

Several riders in our club have them (including me) and we still get moaned at/moan if we get splatted.

It cuts it down a lot but does not eliminate it totally.

Curse whoever chose white for our club kit :evil:

gsk82

sorry my comments above were about the raceblade xl not long.

a clubmate had the cruds and added a flap to the end for extra rear coverage. unortunately the extra weight makes it flap from die to side stopping it covering the wheel

on-yer-bike

Raceblade stays fit under the QRs. If the rear drop outs have a large overhang are Raceblades unusable?

iPete

I've used both and will use both this winter (Raceblades won't fit on the fixie).

My preference is the Raceblade longs. (I waxed lyrical about the Cruds last year too!)

The Cruds (on the fixed last winter) rubbed, moved around, broke a few times etc. The Raceblades feel very fit and forget (so far, only had them on a week).

I'm fitting a new set of cruds (last years are a mess) to the fixie later. So I guess come spring I'll have a winner..

wishitwasallflat

I had exactly the same dilemma and choice and decided to go for Cruds - I fitted them to my Specialized Sectuer with initially GP4000s 25mms and then Michelin Pro4 Endurance 25mms and they work fine with both tyres. Check the fitting video guide on the Crud website before fitting (better still have it running while you fit) as the written instructions are rubbish but with the video its fine. Fit them indoors or on a still day in good light and take your time - its fiddly but perfectly do-able for anyone with basic manual skills and a little patience. Took me about an hour to fit and the front needed a very minor tweak the next day (I had done the cable tie on the front one too tight and the front was rubbing a bit - loosened it off so it was tight enough to just stop any rattle added one of the little soft pads and it was fine). I think if it comes time to remove and refit (dry summers are possible??) I reckon I could do it in 10-15 minutes.

I've had them on for over a month now and they work really well. Only time I hear them is if a little stone gets flipped round and rubs on it's way out. Otherwise quick and effective. Really nice to not get a wet bum and not have filthy stripe up my back after wet ride. Bike is very very much cleaner with these - the bit that protects front mech works brilliantly so it must be good for that.

I don't understand reviews and stories which say these are fragile - I take my bike up to work in the lift when I commute and I have bumped them a few times and they haven't broken. The plastic seems quite flexible. I also haven't noticed any loosening of the little bolts but it takes a few seconds to check them if you are worried about those internet tales.

I prevaricated for years over whether or not to try these or maybe Race Blade Longs - I never tried the Race Blades cause I plumped for these and if they did break I think I would just replace them as they work really well. I wouldn't ever go back to no mudguards now as it really nice to have them.

primalcarl

I've had two sets of Cruds, one pair on a Trek 1.7 with Gatorskins - fitted ok. The second pair are on a Caad8 with Gatorskins and there's just no way to fit the rear without any rubbing. Infact, even with minimal rubbing the rear tyre has worn through the plastic! They do rattle too, especially as they fit better when the cable-tie is left loose behind the brakes. Coverage is good though

brucey72

I had the same problem as primalcarl on my Trek 1.4 with 23mm GP 4 Seasons. No matter how much tinkering I did with the rear guard I just couldn't stop it from rubbing (front one was absolutely fine). The crud comes in 3 parts and you can buy replacements and I went through 2 middle sections before giving up on them. I fitted Race Blade Longs last month and have had no issues with them rubbing and they seem more sturdy than the cruds.

thegibdog

I've found that on a wet club run being behind someone with the Crud RoadRacers on is worse than being behind someone with no mudguards on. The RaceBlade Long's give much more protection, better than the standard SKS Chromoplastics.

primalcarl

thegibdog - I've found it very much depends which tail they use on the Cruds, the full (agricultural) one or the short one

on-yer-bike

on-yer-bike wrote:

Raceblade stays fit under the QRs. If the rear drop outs have a large overhang are Raceblades unusable?

Does anybody know the answer to this? No point in buying raceblades if I cant fit them.

iPete

on-yer-bike wrote:

on-yer-bike wrote:

Raceblade stays fit under the QRs. If the rear drop outs have a large overhang are Raceblades unusable?

Does anybody know the answer to this? No point in buying raceblades if I cant fit them.

I'm incapable of imagining what you mean, pics?

giant_man

Had raceblades, fell apart, had cruds, better, not perfect, but much better imo

NeXXus

on-yer-bike wrote:

on-yer-bike wrote:

Raceblade stays fit under the QRs. If the rear drop outs have a large overhang are Raceblades unusable?

Does anybody know the answer to this? No point in buying raceblades if I cant fit them.

The QR tabs are shaped for this reason

The Mechanic

iPete wrote:

on-yer-bike wrote:

on-yer-bike wrote:

Raceblade stays fit under the QRs. If the rear drop outs have a large overhang are Raceblades unusable?

Does anybody know the answer to this? No point in buying raceblades if I cant fit them.

I'm incapable of imagining what you mean, pics?

This is not correct. Race blades clamp onto the seat stays with a rubber foot and two stretchy band thingies. The don't go on the dropouts.

grim168

these do http://www.probikekit.co.uk/bicycle-whe ... tAodwUoAAw

on-yer-bike

The Mechanic wrote:

iPete wrote:

on-yer-bike wrote:

on-yer-bike wrote:

Raceblade stays fit under the QRs. If the rear drop outs have a large overhang are Raceblades unusable?

Does anybody know the answer to this? No point in buying raceblades if I cant fit them.

I'm incapable of imagining what you mean, pics?

This is not correct. Race blades clamp onto the seat stays with a rubber foot and two stretchy band thingies. The don't go on the dropouts.

Think you have them mixed up

napoleond

My race blades clamped on the the seatstays. Unless they've changed the design. Which, to be honest, was crap.

thegibdog

primalcarl wrote:

thegibdog - I've found it very much depends which tail they use on the Cruds, the full (agricultural) one or the short one

Yeah, the full tail is bad and the short tail is worse. They just accumulate dirty water, drop in onto the back wheel whilst they bounce around and this is then flicked up into the following riders face. The big drops of crap are worse than the fine spray off an unguarded back wheel in my experience.

NapoleonD wrote:

My race blades clamped on the the seatstays. Unless they've changed the design. Which, to be honest, was crap.

The race blade longs attach at the wheel quick release.

napoleond

thegibdog wrote:

primalcarl wrote:

thegibdog - I've found it very much depends which tail they use on the Cruds, the full (agricultural) one or the short one

Yeah, the full tail is bad and the short tail is worse. They just accumulate dirty water, drop in onto the back wheel whilst they bounce around and this is then flicked up into the following riders face. The big drops of crap are worse than the fine spray off an unguarded back wheel in my experience.

NapoleonD wrote:

My race blades clamped on the the seatstays. Unless they've changed the design. Which, to be honest, was crap.

The race blade longs attach at the wheel quick release.

Hmm. I find them no different from full mudguards in terms of spray reduction to following riders. The only way to stop the spray to the rear really is a mudguard flap.