7 of 9

gtvlusso
gtvlusso Posts: 5,112
edited December 2012 in Commuting chat
For those of you who are....well, nerds; 7 of 9 would mean a night alone with the sci fi channel on.....

For me, 7 of 9 means a night of oil, dirt and swearing.

My bike currently runs a 2 x 7 setup (126mm oln spacing)

I don't want to cold set the frame to 130mm, although this is possible as it is a steel frame, for several reasons;

1, would require a new hub or spacers and a wheel rebuild/dishing or buying a new wheel.
2, chainline would change meaning that I would probably at minimum have to replace the BB

So, what I can do is; replace the cassette with a 9 speed cassette and switch the 9 speed spacers for 10 speed spacers. This gives me 9 speeds on a 7 speed hub - I would have to use a thinner chain and could use more current parts rather than scouring ebay for vintage and used 7 speed parts.

I then need to change the shifters from 105 7 speed to dura ace 9 speed DT levers. I also need to change the 105 mech for a mech that will load up to 9 speeds.

My questions are:

1, Is this worth is for an old frame used for commuting in winter?
2, has anyone done this switch out using DT lever shifting?
3, The change should make the bike more supportable for the future, is this true?
4, Is Dura Ace a bit too OTT for a winter/commuter bike?

Any other things I have missed?
«13

Comments

  • If you are changing the 9 speed spacers for 10 speed spacers on the rear cogs then you will need a 10 speed shifter. a 9speed one will pull slightly too much cable!

    Mike
  • gtvlusso wrote:
    For those of you who are....well, nerds; 7 of 9 would mean a night alone with the sci fi channel on.....

    Stopped reading right there.

    Did I miss anything interesting in the rest of the post?
    Swim. Bike. Run. Yeah. That's what I used to do.

    Bike 1
    Bike 2-A
  • gtvlusso
    gtvlusso Posts: 5,112
    mudcovered wrote:
    If you are changing the 9 speed spacers for 10 speed spacers on the rear cogs then you will need a 10 speed shifter. a 9speed one will pull slightly too much cable!

    Mike

    Ah good point! I could go - 8 speed with 9 speed spacers, I suppose!
  • gtvlusso
    gtvlusso Posts: 5,112
    gtvlusso wrote:
    For those of you who are....well, nerds; 7 of 9 would mean a night alone with the sci fi channel on.....

    Stopped reading right there.

    Did I miss anything interesting in the rest of the post?

    Shame:

    7-Of-9-joins-Starfleet-star-trek-voyager-4003792-564-605.jpg
  • gtvlusso wrote:
    Ah good point! I could go - 8 speed with 9 speed spacers, I suppose!
    That might work. The other think to contend with is the fact that on modern cassettes the top three cogs are bolted to a carrier so you can't change the spacing.

    Mike
  • rjsterry
    rjsterry Posts: 29,336
    I run an 8-speed cassette with 7-speed shifters (old RSX), and it works fine; I just have to pick which 7 cogs I'm going to use, 12-23 or 13-25. I have a Sora rear mech, which, err, does the job.
    1985 Mercian King of Mercia - work in progress (Hah! Who am I kidding?)
    Pinnacle Monzonite

    Part of the anti-growth coalition
  • mudcow007
    mudcow007 Posts: 3,861
    voyager is doing repeats on some weird channel on VM at the moment

    its rekindled my obsession with all thing Borg

    hello 7!!

    tumblr_m4m7kyvCVw1rsq60go1_500.jpg

    ding ding dong!
    Keeping it classy since '83
  • wgwarburton
    wgwarburton Posts: 1,863
    gtvlusso wrote:
    ...So, what I can do is; replace the cassette with a 9 speed cassette and switch the 9 speed spacers for 10 speed spacers. This gives me 9 speeds on a 7 speed hub - I would have to use a thinner chain and could use more current parts rather than scouring ebay for vintage and used 7 speed parts.
    ...
    1, Is this worth is for an old frame used for commuting in winter?
    2, has anyone done this switch out using DT lever shifting?
    3, The change should make the bike more supportable for the future, is this true?
    4, Is Dura Ace a bit too OTT for a winter/commuter bike?

    You can still buy 7-speed kit new. It'll be a while before you need to scour ebay for parts, I think. If you're worried then set a search running now and pick up compatible parts cheap when they come onto the market. You'll then have spares ready when things wear out.

    I don't think that having a custom setup that requires modifying a cassette every time you replace it really counts as "supportable" on a winter commuter, but maybe that's just me.... :-)

    Cheers,
    W.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    sheldon covers this well.

    and really you want to be using 9 of 10 on a 7speed body.

    or 8 of 9

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#up7
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,767
    gtvlusso wrote:
    For those of you who are....well, nerds; 7 of 9 would mean a night alone with the sci fi channel on.....

    Stopped reading right there.

    Did I miss anything interesting in the rest of the post?
    I regained interest around the time of Muckyheifer's post. What was all the dribble in between?
  • It used to be 7 of 9 for me.

    Then I stumbled across Lost Girl.

    032212lost2.jpg

    I'm not entirely sure 7 of 9 managed any girl on girl action.
    Chunky Cyclists need your love too! :-)
    2009 Specialized Tricross Sport
    2011 Trek Madone 4.5
    2012 Felt F65X
    Proud CX Pervert and quiet roadie. 12 mile commuter
  • gtvlusso
    gtvlusso Posts: 5,112
    nicklouse wrote:
    sheldon covers this well.

    and really you want to be using 9 of 10 on a 7speed body.

    or 8 of 9

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#up7

    Thanks - I read Sheldon, my concern is that I don't want to commit the folding without ironing out all the potential pitfalls/voice of reason and experience.

    I was also just looking for an innocent thread that I could look at with some fine blart on it whilst working......Where is DDD today?
  • tailwindhome
    tailwindhome Posts: 19,313
    So......someone's going to have to explain the phrase 7 of 9 to me.
    “New York has the haircuts, London has the trousers, but Belfast has the reason!
  • mudcow007
    mudcow007 Posts: 3,861
    So......someone's going to have to explain the phrase 7 of 9 to me.

    7 of 9 was a character in Star Trek Voyager an had big bangers

    nuff said.....
    Keeping it classy since '83
  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,767
    mudcow007 wrote:
    So......someone's going to have to explain the phrase 7 of 9 to me.

    7 of 9 was a character in Star Trek Voyager an had big bangers

    nuff said.....
    Understatement. Skinny bird with unfeasibly large thrup's, but not in an overinflated silicone sense.
  • gtv - are you beginning to regret your choice of title? I'm impressed that every 3rd or 4th post you manage to drag it back to your intended topic.... :wink::D
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • gtvlusso
    gtvlusso Posts: 5,112
    gtv - are you beginning to regret your choice of title? I'm impressed that every 3rd or 4th post you manage to drag it back to your intended topic.... :wink::D

    I think this just proves that we are all closet perverts and quite nerdy.....

    TBH, who gives a frig about bikes when were talking about hot chicks.....
  • You can easily fit a 130mm hub into a 126mm steel frame. You don't need to cold set it or any of that nonsense. It's only 2mm each side, gently pull the dropouts apart as you drop in the hub and you will barely notice there's any sort of incompatibility. Well within the tolerances of the frame material as well I would hazard.
    <a>road</a>
  • gtvlusso
    gtvlusso Posts: 5,112
    You can easily fit a 130mm hub into a 126mm steel frame. You don't need to cold set it or any of that nonsense. It's only 2mm each side, gently pull the dropouts apart as you drop in the hub and you will barely notice there's any sort of incompatibility. Well within the tolerances of the frame material as well I would hazard.

    Trashes your chainline - chainline is set for 126mm spacing. Would also have to buy a new wheelas well as all the other shifting stuff.
  • Sorry, no. Jadzia Dax
  • Sorry, no. Jadzia Dax

    Trials and Tribble-lations.... (dribble)
    Chunky Cyclists need your love too! :-)
    2009 Specialized Tricross Sport
    2011 Trek Madone 4.5
    2012 Felt F65X
    Proud CX Pervert and quiet roadie. 12 mile commuter
  • gtvlusso wrote:
    You can easily fit a 130mm hub into a 126mm steel frame. You don't need to cold set it or any of that nonsense. It's only 2mm each side, gently pull the dropouts apart as you drop in the hub and you will barely notice there's any sort of incompatibility. Well within the tolerances of the frame material as well I would hazard.

    Trashes your chainline - chainline is set for 126mm spacing. Would also have to buy a new wheelas well as all the other shifting stuff.

    Shirley the chain line is set by the limit screws on the rear mech? It's not really a set thing on a multi-gear set-up.
  • mudcow007
    mudcow007 Posts: 3,861
    edited December 2012
    Sorry, no. Jadzia Dax

    yeah ok i see your Dax an i raise you a....

    xev-bellringer.jpg

    Xev from Lexx
    Keeping it classy since '83
  • .....this isn't going to end well.... :wink::D:D:D
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • gtvlusso wrote:
    You can easily fit a 130mm hub into a 126mm steel frame. You don't need to cold set it or any of that nonsense. It's only 2mm each side, gently pull the dropouts apart as you drop in the hub and you will barely notice there's any sort of incompatibility. Well within the tolerances of the frame material as well I would hazard.

    Trashes your chainline - chainline is set for 126mm spacing. Would also have to buy a new wheelas well as all the other shifting stuff.


    Nonsense - the freehub is moving by 2mm compared to the BB, just adjust the limit screws on the derailleur. Why on earth would you need a new wheel & "shifitng stuff" ?? I have done this & it works fine
    <a>road</a>
  • mudcow007
    mudcow007 Posts: 3,861
    .....this isn't going to end well.... :wink::D:D:D

    ha im hoping there is a "happy ending"
    Keeping it classy since '83
  • gtvlusso
    gtvlusso Posts: 5,112
    gtvlusso wrote:
    You can easily fit a 130mm hub into a 126mm steel frame. You don't need to cold set it or any of that nonsense. It's only 2mm each side, gently pull the dropouts apart as you drop in the hub and you will barely notice there's any sort of incompatibility. Well within the tolerances of the frame material as well I would hazard.

    Trashes your chainline - chainline is set for 126mm spacing. Would also have to buy a new wheelas well as all the other shifting stuff.

    Shirley the chain line is set by the limit screws on the rear mech? It's not really a set thing on a multi-gear set-up.

    Nope, limit screws set the derailleur loading limits high and low. If the chainline is out by a significant margin, you can get indexing issues and front mech issues - i.e. it will never be accurate or spot on without rub or shifting issues. 42mm for 120mm rear spacing with a 28.6 seatube. 43.5 for 126mm with a 28.6 seat tube.

    At the moment, shifting is perfect and accurate on the bike. Just getting concerned about shortage of vintage parts for a 7 speed setup, hence the change up to a more supportable format....and I quite fancy a christmas project and a updgrade to Dura Ace.....!
  • gtvlusso wrote:
    gtvlusso wrote:
    You can easily fit a 130mm hub into a 126mm steel frame. You don't need to cold set it or any of that nonsense. It's only 2mm each side, gently pull the dropouts apart as you drop in the hub and you will barely notice there's any sort of incompatibility. Well within the tolerances of the frame material as well I would hazard.

    Trashes your chainline - chainline is set for 126mm spacing. Would also have to buy a new wheelas well as all the other shifting stuff.

    Shirley the chain line is set by the limit screws on the rear mech? It's not really a set thing on a multi-gear set-up.

    Nope, limit screws set the derailleur loading limits high and low. If the chainline is out by a significant margin, you can get indexing issues and front mech issues - i.e. it will never be accurate or spot on without rub or shifting issues. 42mm for 120mm rear spacing with a 28.6 seatube. 43.5 for 126mm with a 28.6 seat tube.

    At the moment, shifting is perfect and accurate on the bike. Just getting concerned about shortage of vintage parts for a 7 speed setup, hence the change up to a more supportable format....and I quite fancy a christmas project and a updgrade to Dura Ace.....!


    Yes but 2mm is hardly a "significant margin". I bet the position of the freehub could differ by that on different models of hub.
    <a>road</a>
  • Anybody willing to lend you the bits to give it a try?
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • gtvlusso
    gtvlusso Posts: 5,112
    gtvlusso wrote:
    You can easily fit a 130mm hub into a 126mm steel frame. You don't need to cold set it or any of that nonsense. It's only 2mm each side, gently pull the dropouts apart as you drop in the hub and you will barely notice there's any sort of incompatibility. Well within the tolerances of the frame material as well I would hazard.

    Trashes your chainline - chainline is set for 126mm spacing. Would also have to buy a new wheelas well as all the other shifting stuff.


    Nonsense - the freehub is moving by 2mm compared to the BB, just adjust the limit screws on the derailleur. Why on earth would you need a new wheel & "shifitng stuff" ?? I have done this & it works fine

    Your version of 'fine' maybe very different to my version of 'fine' and your setup may have more tolerance than mine. It is possible and works'ish, but not perfect - I would rather get it right than do a 'yeah. it fits, job'. My mech is only loaded for 7 speed, it may over select and be capable of moving up to 9 speeds, but I don't wanna buy a load of stuff and then find out the mech cannot change the ratios fully.

    So, keep the 126 spacing and the rear wheel/freehub. Switcheroo the spacers on a 9 speed cassette (that I have) onto an 8 speed - buy a shifter, switch the chain. The spacing is then taken up in the cassette rather than the frame - as long as I keep the spacers, I can custom build cassettes.