Disadvantages of using a MTB on a turbo trainer?
GBR1
Posts: 97
Hi Guys n girls,
Just got a turbo trainer and seen I can set it up for a MTB wheel as well (Tacx Satori Pro)..
What are the disadvantages of using a MTB on the Turbo over a road bike??
I quite like the idea of using my MTB, the road bike gets less use plus I can get a cheap slick rear tyre for the MTB. I then don't have those issue (turbo tyre) with my road bike and its ready to go if the weather is nice..
Only downside I see is the gearing is different, if that make a difference on a turbo (never used one). I have an edge 500 so I am pretty sure I can calibrate the speed for the MTB wheel and cadence is cadence..
Thanks for you help..
GBR1
Just got a turbo trainer and seen I can set it up for a MTB wheel as well (Tacx Satori Pro)..
What are the disadvantages of using a MTB on the Turbo over a road bike??
I quite like the idea of using my MTB, the road bike gets less use plus I can get a cheap slick rear tyre for the MTB. I then don't have those issue (turbo tyre) with my road bike and its ready to go if the weather is nice..
Only downside I see is the gearing is different, if that make a difference on a turbo (never used one). I have an edge 500 so I am pretty sure I can calibrate the speed for the MTB wheel and cadence is cadence..
Thanks for you help..
GBR1
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Comments
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louder maybe? good question. Would it affect peddling technique focused sessions? due to different geometry to the road bike? i dont know tbh. Im sure someone with more experience will be along soon. I use mtb gearing on my road/cx bike currently, guess its slightly more challenging finding the right cadence to power output but no biggie.0
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Position would be an issue, you should really train in the position you want to ride in, as this is specific to muscle recruitment patterns.0
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danowat wrote:Position would be an issue, you should really train in the position you want to ride in, as this is specific to muscle recruitment patterns.
So I have had a look, measured saddle height (to bottom of peddle stroke) and aft (center of saddle) from center of BB and can get the MTB to the same as my road bike. So reach is different but I cant imagine this make a big difference other than comfort??
So only real difference is size of tyre and gearing, so can I compensate this with the resistance number?
Thanks for your help..
GBR10 -
Or, you could simplify the whole thing and use the bike you are going to ride on the road on the turbo......0
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danowat wrote:Or, you could simplify the whole thing and use the bike you are going to ride on the road on the turbo......
Yep, I could. My only thought was that by doing it this way (assuming there is no huge disadvantage) is that my road bike is then ready to go if its a nice day. No changing tyres etc.......0 -
I've been riding the same tyre on road and turbo for 3 years, and only now is it ready for a change. Frankly I think people are making an issue where there isn't one.
If you dont want to do that, it only takes 2-3 mins to change a tyre, or you could get a trainer wheel and change that in 30s.All the above is just advice .. you can do whatever the f*ck you wana do!
Bike Radar Strava Club
The Northern Ireland Thread0 -
dw300 wrote:I've been riding the same tyre on road and turbo for 3 years, and only now is it ready for a change. Frankly I think people are making an issue where there isn't one.
Yup, I use my training tub on the turbo, although I don't do a huge amount of work on the turbo, it certainly isn't an issue.0 -
If you want to use the mtb, use it. You've checked the position and it's fine, it makes no difference whatsoever.
I use whichever bike is the cleanest at the time.0 -
I squared a Michelin Pro Race 3 in about half a dozen turbo sessions. Fact.
Mountain bike gearing will leave you short of resistance possibly, depending on the trainer.0 -
barry_kellett99 wrote:I squared a Michelin Pro Race 3 in about half a dozen turbo sessions. Fact.
I've done about 20 on mine and it's just starting to suqare off. I also use a Michelin Lithion over the winter and they last for EVER!0 -
GiantMike wrote:barry_kellett99 wrote:I squared a Michelin Pro Race 3 in about half a dozen turbo sessions. Fact.
I've done about 20 on mine and it's just starting to suqare off. I also use a Michelin Lithion over the winter and they last for EVER!
But would you use such a low quality tyre outdoors?
Surely it must be as sketchy as riding over a wet manhole cover with a turbo tyre on?
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barry_kellett99 wrote:GiantMike wrote:barry_kellett99 wrote:I squared a Michelin Pro Race 3 in about half a dozen turbo sessions. Fact.
I've done about 20 on mine and it's just starting to suqare off. I also use a Michelin Lithion over the winter and they last for EVER!
But would you use such a low quality tyre outdoors?
Surely it must be as sketchy as riding over a wet manhole cover with a turbo tyre on?
Mainly because I can't be bothered to swap the tyre on my powertap wheel everytime I want to use the turbo. Besides, if you can ride a bike properly you can cope with a bit less grip if you're not racing0 -
Eh guys .. when you sit on the bike the tyre squares from the pressure of your weight and that of the road surface. A squared tyre won't really affect performance much other than less rubber to protect from punctures.
Actually, the more you square them off, you might have a little more surface area, so you should have more grip in most situations. The wider contact patch also give you more grip on the turbo cylinder, so less slipping and less wear. Trust me, the wear seems fast at first, but slows to very little once squared.All the above is just advice .. you can do whatever the f*ck you wana do!
Bike Radar Strava Club
The Northern Ireland Thread0 -
I've been riding the same tyre on road and turbo for 3 years, and only now is it ready for a change. Frankly I think people are making an issue where there isn't one
Agreed. I tend to use older tyres over the winter anyway (Conti Gatorskins or GP4000) and have had no problems using them on the turbo and on the road.0