Canyon owners beware

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Comments

  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    poppit wrote:
    Used a jet washer on low pressure for the last 10 yrs with no problems, just don't point it too closely at the sensitive areas, common sense really.
    Spot the difference.
    JayKay3000 wrote:
    blast at a car jet wash
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  • pe60t0
    pe60t0 Posts: 16
    edited November 2012
    I have a couple of questions regarding cleaning.

    Firstly, I don't get the whole idea about Muc off. They say its safe on anodizing finish, but I have read numerous posts in forums, etc. where people say that it has damaged anodized frames, pedals, knobs, etc. Also, it seems to damage logos from tyres, rims and other "sensitive" paints on parts. Apparently, it also damages glue-applied parts. So how do they sell it ? And why do people buy it ? Is the secret in the amount of muc off that is applied, and the time it stays on the bike before it is risen off ?

    Secondly, washing up liquid and car shampoo. From what I understand there is salt in washing up liquid which can damage steel-parts if it gets into contact with them. However, this is very unlikely because the amount of salt applied to the bike is so little anyway. Still however, it is possible for this to happen, as even if a small amount of salt can get into bearings and do damage. So I guess, with washing up liquid the idea is that you need to be careful so it does not get close to steel parts and rinse it thoroughly as well.

    Then comes car-shampoo. From my understanding, it does not have the anodize-damaging properties of Muc off (and other bike-targeted cleaners), and it does not contain salt in it like washing up liquid ?

    So to summarize: muc off and washing up liquid both work if extra care is taken. Car shampoo should work always, probably not as good as the other methods in terms of efficiency of cleaning.

    Let me know if my understanding is right and please point me in the right direction. Basically, I am looking for something to clean my bike with, that is not going to damage it in any way and will perform good enough.

    I am currently riding a Canyon Nerve AM, and for all the bikes I have got so far, I have never used any special cleaning products. Just pure water. However, I want to use something more efficient now.

    PS: I am referring to general cleaning of the bike. Chain/drivetrain where grease stays is another topic.
  • chez_m356
    chez_m356 Posts: 1,893
    pe60t0 wrote:
    I am currently riding a Canyon Nerve AM, and for all the bikes I have got so far, I have never used any special cleaning products. Just pure water. However, I want to use something more efficient now.
    try it warm :wink:
    Specialized Hardrock Sport Disc 10- CANYON Nerve AM 6 2011
  • pe60t0
    pe60t0 Posts: 16
    Can't really use hot water with a hose. Just hot water with a sponge doesn't feel right.
  • I have always just used water from a garden hose (carefully) and a selection of brushes (and a muc-off chain cleaner with their degreaser). I doubt you'll find a cleaner/better maintained bike on the trails than mine!
    2011 Canyon XC 8.0 (Monza Race Red)
    1996(?) dyna-tech titanium HT; pace RC-35's; Hope Ti Hubs etc etc
    Bianchi Road Bike
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    That's a bold claim!

    I use Turtle Wax ZipWax, big bottle from Halfords lasts years, kinder than Muc-Off or WUL (which I tend to use on the chain/cassette).
  • pe60t0
    pe60t0 Posts: 16
    This should work fine, but isn't the Wax part dangerous for the brakes ? I guess it is, which makes the cleaning quite challenging as it is quite easy for the wax to go to the rotors/pads. So you have to be very careful for this not to happen. Am I reasoning correctly here ?
  • bennett_346
    bennett_346 Posts: 5,029
    Been using muc off and a garden hose for 3 years and really never had a problem with any paint or anodizing or brakes or anything.
  • batmo
    batmo Posts: 277
    The salt contained in washing-up liquid or car shampoo won't be an issue if you rinse it off with plain water at the end. Personally I use the water from the garden butt in a watering can rather than the hose.

    The best way to prevent the rust is to dry thoroughly afterwards. This is what old Y-fronts are for.
    Viscount Grand Touring - in bits
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  • ddraver
    ddraver Posts: 26,661
    I use the Fenwicks concentrated stuff - Same price as Muc-Off, but lasts 10 times as long.

    Even longer as you can dilute more than they reccommend so you don't have the problems the OP had, it makes a decent enough chain degreaser too, although if you re a cleaning pimp, then the proper ones are better...
    We're in danger of confusing passion with incompetence
    - @ddraver
  • I've used muc off diluted by half, and have done for a few years, and never had a problem. Often get told pre-ride that my bikes too clean :D

    I also use a watering can filled from the water butt. It works.

    Having said all the above, I'm building up a carbon rame, with a matte finish, and am wondering if I might need to switch to a product more suited to carbon.
    Family, Friends, Fantastic trails - what else is there

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  • AMcK
    AMcK Posts: 79
    njee20 wrote:
    That's a bold claim!

    It may be, but I've been riding with Shackster for years, and he's the epitome of OCD when it comes to his bike.

    Anyway - I've an anodized frame, use a bit of muc off, a bucket of hot water and various brushes. Chain degreaser on the chain, obviously.

    And wipe the frame dry and then wipe it again with a GT85-soaked bit of shop towel to give it a nice finish.

    No problems with muc off though. The paint seems quite tough to me - except where I've completely worn the paint away where the inside of my left heel rubs against the rear stay when out of the saddle - but I don't think I can sue Canyon for that!
    2011 Black Canyon Nerve XC9.0