Pads rubbing a lot, so I've replaced the fluid + put new pads in. Reset the pistons as part of bleeding. Lever is no longer spongy, but pads do rub a bit.
Was really rubbing before I started. And lever was very spongy.
I loosened caliper mount bolts (to the fork) and visually realigned it to be true.
Then followed the Avid manual for bleeding/replacing the fluid. So I don't think I've overfilled - in fact, if I let some fluid out presumably I would just be letting air into the system??
Now the lever is nice and crisp (not spongy any more). The pads rub a bit, but not as much as they did.
And yep, the pistons were pushed right back in as part of bleeding.
Was really rubbing before I started. And lever was very spongy.
I loosened caliper mount bolts (to the fork) and visually realigned it to be true.
Then followed the Avid manual for bleeding/replacing the fluid. So I don't think I've overfilled - in fact, if I let some fluid out presumably I would just be letting air into the system??
Now the lever is nice and crisp (not spongy any more). The pads rub a bit, but not as much as they did.
And yep, the pistons were pushed right back in as part of bleeding.
Sounds like you have to much drag on your pistons ( sticking pistons ) This is a very common problem with Avid Elixir and Juicy for that matter. You can get calliper rebuild kits that will solve this problem. Its normally easiest to get the full kit with new O rings and new pistons. Stripping and cleaning the caliper then rebuilding with these new parts should stop pad drag ( assuming your rotor is true ) and will also stop leavers pumping or up being stuck very soft.
For best performance, reliability and durability from Avids you must fully drain and refill the fluid regularly as well as clean and lubricate the seals/pistons.
Stripping and cleaning the caliper then rebuilding with these new parts should stop pad drag ( assuming your rotor is true )
HOWEVER before spending out on a rebuild kit - try cleaning the pistons, it will quite likely work to free up a sticky piston, and costs nothing, so would be a good first step.
For best performance, reliability and durability from Avids you must fully drain and refill the fluid regularly as well as clean and lubricate the seals/pistons.
Overkill - once clean, fresh fluid is in there, and assuming there are no leaks, it doesn't need touching, probably for a couple of years.
Posts
check caliper alignment and then go and ride it.
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
If now, there will be less clearance as you've got new pads. Reset the pistons right the way home. Or you've over filled.
I loosened caliper mount bolts (to the fork) and visually realigned it to be true.
Then followed the Avid manual for bleeding/replacing the fluid. So I don't think I've overfilled - in fact, if I let some fluid out presumably I would just be letting air into the system??
Now the lever is nice and crisp (not spongy any more). The pads rub a bit, but not as much as they did.
And yep, the pistons were pushed right back in as part of bleeding.
Sounds like you have to much drag on your pistons ( sticking pistons ) This is a very common problem with Avid Elixir and Juicy for that matter. You can get calliper rebuild kits that will solve this problem. Its normally easiest to get the full kit with new O rings and new pistons. Stripping and cleaning the caliper then rebuilding with these new parts should stop pad drag ( assuming your rotor is true ) and will also stop leavers pumping or up being stuck very soft.
For best performance, reliability and durability from Avids you must fully drain and refill the fluid regularly as well as clean and lubricate the seals/pistons.
HOWEVER before spending out on a rebuild kit - try cleaning the pistons, it will quite likely work to free up a sticky piston, and costs nothing, so would be a good first step.
Overkill - once clean, fresh fluid is in there, and assuming there are no leaks, it doesn't need touching, probably for a couple of years.
Iron Horse Ojiki
Carrera Kraken
The Carrera Hardtail owners thread