To all you reverb people

mb london
mb london Posts: 96
edited August 2012 in MTB general
As well as some new sunnies I think Im gonna get a reverb but am a bit confused with the different sizes etc. it appears that there is two different travel options, why is that? Why would any one opt for the lesser amount of travel?

I guess I go for the one with the most travel, does that give enough adjustment ? I have read excellent review on these but alway good to hear Bona fide user opinions. Also how easy are the to install, I think my LBS will install as part of the cost

Thanks
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Comments

  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Similar question myself. I know about the length which I know in my case I have to go for a 380 for my frame for it to fit (by 'fit' I mean to get the collar down as low as possible, at least for my requirements). Likewise I know the seat tube size.

    But the 'drop'. 100 or 125. Well I'd just go for 125 giving me the largest range, but I've been reading comments here and there with people saying 125 was too much for them so they had to get 100...

    Why?

    Surely you just let it extend to your comfortable riding position and job done. The drop is how far it drops from there down, yes?

    Or is it only a question for people who ride with sky high seat positions and maybe they don't want the seat to drop all the way down so might go for a 100 ?

    Don't know. All I know is I need it to go up to wherever my backside is at the time and drop right down to the collar, in my case.
  • DodgeT
    DodgeT Posts: 2,255
    I would imagine its more of a problem for the shorter guys. If you have the 125 drop, think (off memory) the distance from under the collar to the saddle rails is something like 180mm. So if you wouldnt normally have this much post out of the frame, the highest position of the post would be higher than you'd normally have it and could make for interesting riding maybe?
  • Adotparker
    Adotparker Posts: 128
    the post comes with a locking collar so that you set your 'ideal' riding height........ then use the collar to prevent the post going below minium riding height I have the 125, but i only chose that as that's all they had in stock at the time.... I would of been content with the 100
    Orange 5 Pro 650b 2014
    Orange Crush 650b 2014
  • ilovedirt
    ilovedirt Posts: 5,798
    As dodget said, with the longer drop, you have a longer seatpost, and if you have quite a long seat tube already and you're not particularly tall, it can cause problems.

    To find out how much drop you need, just measure how much you drop your post usually. I never tend to drop mine more than about 125mm anyway.
    Production Privee Shan

    B'Twin Triban 5
  • Matt_as
    Matt_as Posts: 84
    You also need to see how far you can put the post into the frame. Some frames due to their seat tube shape only let you put the post down so far, which normally isn't too much of a problem but with a dropper post, the post needs to be able to go into the frame far enough to get the whole dropped length in.
  • warpcow
    warpcow Posts: 1,448
    What Dodge T said. On one of my bikes I only had space from the top of the seat-tube to the saddle-rails for 100mm drop, on the other 125mm. If I understand deadkenny correctly, the idea of buying a longer one and then just dropping it a bit after everytime you raise it would annoy the tits off me.

    It's all moot for me anyway as I bought a GD instead and couldn't be happier 8)
  • DHA
    DHA Posts: 7
    As a midget (5ft6) the 125 drop would be massive in my small frame. Luckily the 100 drop with the collar flush in the frame is a perfect size for me. I would say get the 100 drop version as you can sit the main post higher in a frame.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    But what I don't get is if you got 125 and it dropped to collar, what difference is it to a 100 dropping to the collar? Surely then doesn't matter which you get if you're short?

    5'7" myself (though height isn't the issue, leg size is, but I have short legs too), just need to work out which to get and what if any problems I'd have if I get the wrong one, or is there a wrong one?

    I'm struggling to work out what's right to get, especially if 'cheap' means buying from Germany and sending it back for a different size is a pain.
  • DodgeT
    DodgeT Posts: 2,255
    First off, measure how much post you have sticking out from the top of the seat tube - measure to the rails.

    Then measure how far down inside the tube your current post can go.

    Post back and i'm sure we'll help to get you the wrong one :)
  • paul.skibum
    paul.skibum Posts: 4,068
    deadkenny wrote:
    But what I don't get is if you got 125 and it dropped to collar, what difference is it to a 100 dropping to the collar? Surely then doesn't matter which you get if you're short?

    5'7" myself (though height isn't the issue, leg size is, but I have short legs too), just need to work out which to get and what if any problems I'd have if I get the wrong one, or is there a wrong one?

    I'm struggling to work out what's right to get, especially if 'cheap' means buying from Germany and sending it back for a different size is a pain.

    Forget the drop bit and think about the raising bit - it has to go up to the top - if 125 up (or whatever you have the collar set at) puts the saddle too high for you its useless or youd have to knock it back down to get a comfy pedalling height. I drop my seat around 80-90mm generally and at its lowest have maybe 70-80 showing so overall my seatpost from frame to rails is only 150-170mm (these are estimates as I am not near my bike currently) so a 125mm drop withn effective 180mm height would be too much for me.

    Get it?
    Closet jockey wheel pimp whore.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    So they don't just rise to where your arse is, they just go to full height?
  • paul.skibum
    paul.skibum Posts: 4,068
    I believe so - they can actually insert your saddle inside you if you arent careful........

    No I think you can stop them where you like hence the infinite adjustment but I would want mine to return to a zero point, being my perfect saddle height for peddling as that means my knees and what not arent going to get fubarred. If it just returns to wherever you happen to have your arse then each ride you have a variable seat height or have to shuffle it up and down to get it right - I can shuffle it down from a set height to match terrain but you gotta have the zero point right.
    Closet jockey wheel pimp whore.
  • DHA
    DHA Posts: 7
    They don't return to a pre-set height, they return to full extension. If you hover over it you can stop it on the way up, but I tend to raise it when stood on the pedals so when I sit back down it is at the correct height.
  • colt
    colt Posts: 173
    I'm a shortarse at 5' 5 riding a small Trek Fuel EX8 and I brought the 125mm Drop 420mm long post.

    It fits my frame with room to spare and the rise and fall on it suits me perfectly, that said, if I could buy again I would have got the shorter post, still the 125 drop though.
    Trek Fuel EX8 Rootbeer, mmm beer!
  • bails87
    bails87 Posts: 12,998
    I think the OP just needs to put his current seatpost at the highest point it's going to be set at: full on XC/road pedalling efficiency. Then measure the length of the exposed seatpost (L).

    There's an 8cm minimum insertion line.

    So 'L' plus 8cm is the minimum length that the reverb needs to be in order to get high enough for pedalling and still be safely in the frame (assuming the frame doesn't have it's own minimum insertion guidance). Use that to decide if you need the 380mm or 420mm post.

    If you've got more than 120mm of seatpost showing, then go for the longer drop 120mm post if you can. Better to have more 'drop' than less.

    If you've got between 100 and 120mm of seatpost then go for the shorter 100mm drop post.

    If you've got less than 100mm of seatpost out of the frame then the frame is probably too big!

    I've got about 30cm of post showing out of my frame, so I went for the 420mm/120mm post.

    I've got 12cm of post inside the frame, so well within the min insertion point. And I can vary the length of the 'visible' post from 30 to 18cm, which is plenty for anything I've ridden so far.
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • A great idea, will do that when I get home tonight
  • DodgeT
    DodgeT Posts: 2,255
    Post back with the figures as I mentioned, as you need far more than 120mm visible in order to go for the 125 drop.

    Just measured mine, from bottom of collar to seat rails is 190mm. Mines a 125 drop. So on the same basis, a 100 drop will need you to run approx 165mm of post.
  • bails87
    bails87 Posts: 12,998
    DodgeT wrote:
    Post back with the figures as I mentioned, as you need far more than 120mm visible in order to go for the 125 drop.

    Just measured mine, from bottom of collar to seat rails is 190mm. Mines a 125 drop. So on the same basis, a 100 drop will need you to run approx 165mm of post.

    Ah, 125, not 120, but yeah, there's the collar to take account of too, but that was a rough idea of how to do it.
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    So, checking mine, on the Nomad,

    - at full height enough to power up climbs I ride with 200mm exposed collar to rails

    - on a pedally flat-ish trail with some technical bits, I ride typically about 120mm height

    - for gnar and steep, I want the seat right out of the way and I ride it down at 50mm about as low as it will easily go.


    Arguably a dropper means I don't need an intermidiate height as the reason for it is a compromise so I can sit occasionally on trails but otherwise be standing and seat low enough to lean the bike without the seat too much in the way. With a dropper I could just drop right down and pop it up for the seated bits. Still though, 200mm is way too high for general trails for me, but needed for slogging climbs.
  • milko9000
    milko9000 Posts: 533
    Well it doesn't really matter then - you'll stop it with your arse a bit lower much of the time, but have it full height for climbs I guess. I don't really think about it much in practice, just push the button and get it where I want it at the time.
  • bails87
    bails87 Posts: 12,998
    Same here. That 200mm is the key figure. You need a post that can give you the same height.

    You'll be fine with a 125mm drop. You'll have 18cm of post inside the frame with the shorter 380mm post, so that will be fine too.

    The good thing about the posts is that you have got the intermediate positions. There will be plenty of times where you want it a few cm down from max extension, but then you hit a smooth climb and it goes straight back to full, or you hit a jumpy section and knock it all the way down.

    I'm amazed how much I noticed it when I rode a demo bike without a dropper, I honestly wouldn't be without one now.
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Okay, got it. Just getting a lot of conflicting stuff about the net confusing me. So long as it does what I want that's fine.

    380mm I've been told is the only option on the Nomad also.

    Next question is what will fit the C456 :D. Was just going to get one for the Nomad but the other day I was out on the 456 and kept getting off to crank the seat up and down. Right pain. So I need to buy two droppers :D
  • DodgeT
    DodgeT Posts: 2,255
    ReMember bikediscount.de are your friends for reverbs, paid 170 delivered for mine. 31.6mm for the C456.
  • paul.skibum
    paul.skibum Posts: 4,068
    I have heard that droppers on HT's wear out fast as the mechanism takes a beating on a hardtail - not sure how true that is.
    Closet jockey wheel pimp whore.
  • DodgeT
    DodgeT Posts: 2,255
    Be fine on a carbon frame though. The frame will have melted / exploded before the dropper fails :)
  • milko9000
    milko9000 Posts: 533
    deadkenny wrote:
    Okay, got it. Just getting a lot of conflicting stuff about the net confusing me. So long as it does what I want that's fine.

    380mm I've been told is the only option on the Nomad also.

    Next question is what will fit the C456 :D. Was just going to get one for the Nomad but the other day I was out on the 456 and kept getting off to crank the seat up and down. Right pain. So I need to buy two droppers :D

    Do they have the same diameter? Would be a bit of a faff swapping them around but you could share.

    Or, buy a reverb for one and a somethingelse for the other, so you can be one of the few people with a valid opinion on such things!
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Different diameters I think, though you could use a shim. Faffing about though so an extra £200 maybe to save hassle :D (though just ordered the one for the Nomad, down to £165 for that specific spec. Without bleed kit though, but I have one anyway).

    Not sure yet on the 456. Would add weight to it! :D
  • jairaj
    jairaj Posts: 3,009
    The nomad uses 30.9mm and the C456 uses 31.6mm. Just buy one to fit the Nomad and shim it up to fit the C456 too.

    The seat tube in the C456 is straight and a seat post can be dropped pretty much all the way to the BB so no clearance issues. Just double check the 380mm one you are intending to buy is long enough for the C456
  • jr88
    jr88 Posts: 48
    Good info, i wondered this as well
  • DodgeT
    DodgeT Posts: 2,255
    deadkenny wrote:
    Not sure yet on the 456. Would add weight to it! :D

    Do it, best thing I did to mine.