Lights for rural training rides

dancowley

I'm looking at grabbing some lights for my road bike now that the winter is here (I'm in Scotland!) and need some recommendations.

I mainly ride rural roads since Glasgow is one big pothole. I have some LED flashing lights which should be ok for allowing cars to see me but what happens when it gets proper dark? Does anyone have a good front light suggestion for actually being able to see where you're going which is still fairly small and aero?

Suggestion welcome!

TommyEss

I use a previous incarnation of this to see where I'm going. Not cheap, but very effective.

cyclinggooner

I use a lezyne super drive
http://road.cc/content/review/47544-lez ... ront-light

does the job.

drlodge

I've ordered a Lezyne super drive + spare battery yesterday for just this purpose, now that the evenings are drawing in. Winstanley bikes are doing them for £70 (RRP is £100).

nferrar

I struggle at speed (20mph+, usually on downhills ) with 975 lumens from an Exposure Diablo, I can't see how a 450 lumen light is good enough (on unlit country roads). Personally I'd go with a deal extreme light and make a shroud to control the flooding if I was on a budget.

davala95

I'm in a similar situation.
Anyone had experience of these?? >>> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CREE-Bicycle-XM-L-T6-1600Lum-HeadLamp-Headlight-Bike-Front-Light-/300700161911?pt=UK_SportsLeisure_Camping_LightsLanternsTorches&hash=item4603205777#ht_6548wt_1111

TommyEss

nferrar wrote:

I struggle at speed (20mph+, usually on downhills ) with 975 lumens from an Exposure Diablo, I can't see how a 450 lumen light is good enough (on unlit country roads). Personally I'd go with a deal extreme light and make a shroud to control the flooding if I was on a budget.

Well - there was plenty enough light for me, so I guess everyone's different. On a recent ride back home after a work do, I could see well enough to avoid the potholes and drain covers, and I even had a couple of oncoming cars dip their headlights before they rounded the bend to see me, so it's not exactly dim... Maybe I eat more carrots than you!? :-P

To be honest, I'd only consider that kind of speed in the dark on roads I know well - there's always a limit to what you can see at night, whatever the lights you're using. It is hard to test them in the shop and try and work out how that's going to equate to on-road use though - and brightness, lumens, isn't the whole story, as you've said, the beam pattern can make a big difference too.

And then there's budget considerations as well.

ricklilley

I have a Lezyne Mini Drive, that i use for occasional commuting in the dark on completely unlit rural roads.

It is bright enough to see the edge of the tarmac, potholes, grates etc. Run time is about 40 mins on its brightest setting, but it only takes me 25/30 mins to get home. If the battery does get low it drops into a flashing mode, which is still good to see by. And i have had approaching cars dip their lights before coming around corners towards me.

The Power Drive and Super driver are both brighter and last longer than mine.

Gizmo_

davala95 wrote:

I'm in a similar situation.
Anyone had experience of these?? >>> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CREE-Bicycle-XM-L-T6-1600Lum-HeadLamp-Headlight-Bike-Front-Light-/300700161911?pt=UK_SportsLeisure_Camping_LightsLanternsTorches&hash=item4603205777#ht_6548wt_1111

I've got one. The light from it is simply awesome. Sadly the mount is considerably less than awesome and I managed to break it, as the lamp is screwed to the mount and I didn't realise.

Will still buy another though and be more careful.

Bordersroadie

nferrar wrote:

I struggle at speed (20mph+, usually on downhills ) with 975 lumens from an Exposure Diablo, I can't see how a 450 lumen light is good enough (on unlit country roads). Personally I'd go with a deal extreme light and make a shroud to control the flooding if I was on a budget.

My all-rural commute and dark rural training rides are with my trusty Exposure Toro MkII, 900 lumens, and it's fine for 25mph+ downhills, but only on roads on which I know every pothole and stone. Mid-beam is good enough for most of my commute, full beam for the downhil sections.

BTW, wet roads make a huge difference, they seem to suck the light into the wet tarmac rather than reflect it back at you. For this reason alone I'd say something like the Toro is a minimum serious night time riding light for unlit roads.

bugsrabbit

Bordersroadie wrote:

nferrar wrote:

I struggle at speed (20mph+, usually on downhills ) with 975 lumens from an Exposure Diablo, I can't see how a 450 lumen light is good enough (on unlit country roads). Personally I'd go with a deal extreme light and make a shroud to control the flooding if I was on a budget.

My all-rural commute and dark rural training rides are with my trusty Exposure Toro MkII, 900 lumens, and it's fine for 25mph+ downhills, but only on roads on which I know every pothole and stone. Mid-beam is good enough for most of my commute, full beam for the downhil sections.

BTW, wet roads make a huge difference, they seem to suck the light into the wet tarmac rather than reflect it back at you. For this reason alone I'd say something like the Toro is a minimum serious night time riding light for unlit roads.

Thanks, youve just answered my question ive just posted on 'buying advice'. Ive been looking at the toro or the race. The toro it is then.

Mettan

Whilst not particularly small, the C8 host torch with an XML-T6 emitter is a great light (and setup) - I've used one for nearly a year now and its ben 100 % reliable (its got alot better heatsinking and (pill-interface with the host) than a typical p60 torch & dropin) - you can comfortably see around 40-50 metres ahead on high mode (when you setup the light to near paralell with the road) - for general commuting and in traffic, Medium mode will suffice.

If you want a good quality and well driven C8 go for something like the XinTD V3 C8

http://www.intl-outdoor.com/xintd-c8-v3 ... p-308.html

Or for a more budget option (which I currently use) the one below is decent for the price.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UltraFire-C8- ... 4602ac0f46

There are some UK-stock XM-LT6 C8's on Ebay UK (as above) so have a flick through. (Make sure to avoid the Q5 emitter C8's - they are alot less ''bright'' (as a totality) than the XM-L-T6 ones).

For good runtimes get some Panasonic 3100 maH 18650 batteries - they produce a protected version now. The Xtar 2600maH s are also a decent buy.

Hoopdriver

I know they are expensive, but I really like Lupine lights. They are extremely well built, relable, durable, bright and with excellent beam patterns and light colour. I've used their lights for the past six winters on dark country lanes (I ride between 4:30 and 6:30am every day) and they have been fantastic, well worth the admittedly very high up-front cost.

Sharkyssurfers

I have the new front magic shine light, 2000 lumens I think and that is bright, I had the magicshine rear light but it kept going faulty and had to be replaced twice before I got my money back, I am probably going to buy the denote 400r rear light when it starts getting dark, 300 lumens so should be seen in the rural lanes

glamrox

I have found the Exposure Strada to work very well, the light throw is designed for road not off road use so seems to be a bit more efficient, the remote switch is also a real advantage.

HasselHough

i use an Ultrafire 501b CREE led torch with a senybor battery. you can pick up a bike mount and charger pretty cheaply.


lasted me an entire winter commute so far......

cheap, powerful, weather proof, plenty of modes, never really needed it on max output. bang for buck i dont think you'll find many better IMO :-)

diy

501b for me to - make sure you get one that has XM-L LED and is rated at 1.5A to 2A (most are, but a few run at 2.8A which is less practical).

There is a whole thread in the MTB section. 2 501b on full will push out about 1000 real lumen. the LED itself is rated at around 1000 Lumen, but in the 501 ant 1.5-1.8A its going to be about 500 lumen. On low setting it will be about 100 Lumen. rough run times with quality cells:

max - about 1 hour
med - about 3-4 hours
low about 10 hours

I ride rural roads too for training and have never needed more than Medium setting and most of the time 1 light is fine. Click my sig for links to mounts, beam shots, how to fix videos etc. Night mtb riders tend to go for very high power lights and 4 of the above is plenty for technical trails. 2 on a road bike is more than enough.

Torch is about £12, charger about £5, mount about £2 and the best batteries can be found in old laptop packs. For road cycling you dont need such heavy duty mounts.

two lights will outperform a £100 branded light.

HasselHough

diy wrote:

501b for me to - make sure you get one that has XM-L LED and is rated at 1.5A to 2A (most are, but a few run at 2.8A which is less practical).

There is a whole thread in the MTB section. 2 501b on full will push out about 1000 real lumen. the LED itself is rated at around 1000 Lumen, but in the 501 ant 1.5-1.8A its going to be about 500 lumen. On low setting it will be about 100 Lumen. rough run times with quality cells:

max - about 1 hour
med - about 3-4 hours
low about 10 hours

I ride rural roads too for training and have never needed more than Medium setting and most of the time 1 light is fine. Click my sig for links to mounts, beam shots, how to fix videos etc. Night mtb riders tend to go for very high power lights and 4 of the above is plenty for technical trails. 2 on a road bike is more than enough.

Torch is about £12, charger about £5, mount about £2 and the best batteries can be found in old laptop packs. For road cycling you dont need such heavy duty mounts.

two lights will outperform a £100 branded light.

What he ^ said :-)

Gizmodo

davala95 wrote:

I'm in a similar situation.
Anyone had experience of these?? >>> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CREE-Bicycle-XM-L-T6-1600Lum-HeadLamp-Headlight-Bike-Front-Light-/300700161911?pt=UK_SportsLeisure_Camping_LightsLanternsTorches&hash=item4603205777#ht_6548wt_1111

As per Gizmo, I also have one of these and they are very good, although the light is very spread, not directed in a narrow beam, but does the job at 6:30am in mid winter.

woolwich

Whatever light you choose, I can't recommend helmet mounts strong enough for rural training.
Even with a very powerful fixed beam, when your going quickly, you can sometimes spot some irregularity in the road and the beam has passed over the hazard before your mind has worked out what it was, for example gravel, pothole, mud etc.
With a helmet mount you have the option of following the object for a moment and maybe work out if it's safe or not.
Im not sure of the legality of using helmet mounted lights only, so I run a cheapo fixed one as well.
You do have to be careful not to suffer from "target fixation" by following your line of sight straight towards a problem but overall a helmet mount has saved my bacon many times and really enhanced my confidence to push it a bit at night.

Gizmodo

woolwich wrote:

Whatever light you choose, I can't recommend helmet mounts strong enough for rural training.
Even with a very powerful fixed beam, when your going quickly, you can sometimes spot some irregularity in the road and the beam has passed over the hazard before your mind has worked out what it was, for example gravel, pothole, mud etc.
With a helmet mount you have the option of following the object for a moment and maybe work out if it's safe or not.
Im not sure of the legality of using helmet mounted lights only, so I run a cheapo fixed one as well.
You do have to be careful not to suffer from "target fixation" by following your line of sight straight towards a problem but overall a helmet mount has saved my bacon many times and really enhanced my confidence to push it a bit at night.

Well the eBay CREE light linked to above includes a mount with elastic to put on your head. I cut the elastic off leaving just the mount which I zip tie to an old spare helmet. I then have a helmet mount, sorted.

Mettan

I use an Ultrafire P10 (with an XPG-R5 emitter) as my helmet light - super-bright, very light (65-70 grams approx without battery - quite a bit lighter than a 501b) great runtimes with an 18650 - mines taped using electrical tape - rock solid secure - it throws around 30 metres with a big hotspot and tons of spill.

oldwelshman

Magicshine lights are ace

NWLondoner

I use the magic shine MJ816. mine is the older version with ONLY 1400 Lumens. http://www.magicshineuk.co.uk/products/MJ-816E-1800-lumens-Magicshine

This is the dogs nuts!! It is really easy to mount plus it stays put even when on the roughest of roads.

Being able to select the beam you want via the handlebar mounted remote is a very nice touch.

The downside obviously is having the battery mounted to the top bar but it's something I can live with.

Only issue is the battery running time. I did buy the upgraded Open Light 5.8ah but in the depths of winter the cold condition do curtail its life when on full beam.

I also found that cars NO longer pulled out in front of me as they thought i was a motorcycle.

I paid in all £140 which inc fast shipping.

diy

The battery is the weakness on the magic shine type lights. A 2x2 parallel config without balancing or cell level charging means that the cells get out of balance quickly and fail.

thefd

Gizmo_ wrote:

davala95 wrote:

I'm in a similar situation.
Anyone had experience of these?? >>> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CREE-Bicycle-XM-L-T6-1600Lum-HeadLamp-Headlight-Bike-Front-Light-/300700161911?pt=UK_SportsLeisure_Camping_LightsLanternsTorches&hash=item4603205777#ht_6548wt_1111

I've got one. The light from it is simply awesome. Sadly the mount is considerably less than awesome and I managed to break it, as the lamp is screwed to the mount and I didn't realise.

Will still buy another though and be more careful.

So just so I'm clear with this - you need to mount the battery separately onto the bike also? How do folks set this up then?

cookdn

TheFD wrote:

So just so I'm clear with this - you need to mount the battery separately onto the bike also? How do folks set this up then?

They generally come with some sort of battery pouch (designs seem to vary) that can be mounted somewhere on your frame. Example:



If you find the cables to be too long it wouldn't be a hard job to shorten them to suit.

Off the back of this thread I've just ordered a CREE Bicycle XM-L T6 Headlight for the Rad am Ring 24h race and winter commuting.

Best regards
David

Gizmodo

I mount my battery slung under the stem. As cookdn said, they come with a material puch that has a velcro strap to you can mount it slung under the frame. The long wires I just wrap around the bars next to the light itself.

diy

Generally the XM-L is nicer with an orange peal reflector. The light is a bit raw on the standard mirror one. Still perfectly usable and brighter than any branded crap at a £100 or less.

dw300

jagx400

davala95 wrote:

I'm in a similar situation.
Anyone had experience of these?? >>> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CREE-Bicycle-XM-L-T6-1600Lum-HeadLamp-Headlight-Bike-Front-Light-/300700161911?pt=UK_SportsLeisure_Camping_LightsLanternsTorches&hash=item4603205777#ht_6548wt_1111

I have one of these, they are brilliant, well bright