New bike, first ride - Achilles, knee and ankle pain!

BeauMaximus
BeauMaximus Posts: 73
I got a new bike at the end of last week and took it out for a long ride on Monday (72 mile 1850m ascent)
I was fitted up on it and it felt much more comfortable to ride than my old bike and position.
The guys who sold it to me also changed my cleats to fit the new Ritchey pedals, and they felt good while riding, good power tansfer etc.

All was going well until the last 5 miles where my achilles tendon started aching.
Next day I had sore knee and ankle joints, particularly right leg and very sore right achilles tendon, which now feels a little worse.

All I can think of is i did the cleat setting up bit too tight as my old ones were loose fitting.

Worst of all, I have the Fred Whitton on Sunday so am just resting it now in the hope it will go away.
Any ideas apart from loose cleats and ibuprofen on Sunday?

Thanks

Comments

  • Zoomer37
    Zoomer37 Posts: 725
    Depending on how much difference there is in your riding postion after a fit, you need to give your body a little time to get used to it. I'd rest today, plenty of ice n ibuprofen to help get any swelling down and get out for a few gentle miles tomorrow. If your worried that somethings not right why not give the guy who fitted you a call? They dont get it right all the time.

    Good luck with the Fred Whitton on Sunday
  • lef
    lef Posts: 728
    Whenever I have had bike fittings the fitter has always said take it easy for a couple of weeks to adjust. Possibly just a case of knees and joints moving in ways they're not used and over 70 miles that's a lot of revolutions. Take it easy for a couple of days and maybe ease of the mileage a little for a week or so. Just be sure the fit isn't shoe horning your knees & toe in / out into positions that aren't natural to you i.e if you walk toe out I wouldn't recommend being toe in on the bike.
  • Ron Stuart
    Ron Stuart Posts: 1,242
    As some of the others have pointed out it's about re-training your body to be perched and work differently than it has been used to. Muscle groups, the way they engage relative to tendons, also weight distribution are all factors.
    My own feeling with bike fits is that a note should be made of how your last bike measured up, then the fitter do his/her best to get you fitted ideally on the bike. At this stage there should be a comparison between old measurements and new. If there is anything more than a mm's involved with a change then probably a staged upgrade should be made, e.g. saddle height up or down by 10mm recommended then divide by two 5mm at a time and ride for at least 3 weeks then try the other 5mm if you experience pain/discomfort then go back to change No 1 for another three weeks.
    Note: If new to cycling then just get fitted as best but if there are still issues return to the fitter and explain. Most experienced cyclists still tweak in small amounts till it all feels good (new bike) slightly different geometry may come into play.
    When it all feels good make note of key measurements, fitter should be able to supply original data but if you tweak note that tweak.
    Lastly 72miles and 1850m ascent is to much for first outing best to take (multi tool and tape) on a local loop (30miles) not to far from home and if troubled then try that halfway house adjustment if possible. Simple things like changing shoes (thicker soles) or cleat types in themselves can bring on an issue in some cases.