Garmin Edge 800... advice

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Comments

  • il_principe
    il_principe Posts: 9,155
    For the price of some beer I can give you Edge 800 lessons.
  • DonDaddyD
    DonDaddyD Posts: 12,689
    Il Principe wrote:
    For the price of some beer I can give you Edge 800 lessons.
    Is that a Morpeth invite?
    Food Chain number = 4

    A true scalp is not only overtaking someone but leaving them stopped at a set of lights. As you, who have clearly beaten the lights, pummels nothing but the open air ahead. ~ 'DondaddyD'. Player of the Unspoken Game
  • dhope
    dhope Posts: 6,699
    DonDaddyD wrote:
    Il Principe wrote:
    For the price of some beer I can give you Edge 800 lessons.
    Is that a Morpeth invite?
    Invite? It's a pub :D
    Rose Xeon CW Disc
    CAAD12 Disc
    Condor Tempo
  • DonDaddyD
    DonDaddyD Posts: 12,689
    Whoa, not today. Sorry.
    Food Chain number = 4

    A true scalp is not only overtaking someone but leaving them stopped at a set of lights. As you, who have clearly beaten the lights, pummels nothing but the open air ahead. ~ 'DondaddyD'. Player of the Unspoken Game
  • dhope
    dhope Posts: 6,699
    Damn, I was hoping to get an autograph
    Rose Xeon CW Disc
    CAAD12 Disc
    Condor Tempo
  • DonDaddyD
    DonDaddyD Posts: 12,689
    My reputation precedes me, what is my wheel size?
    Food Chain number = 4

    A true scalp is not only overtaking someone but leaving them stopped at a set of lights. As you, who have clearly beaten the lights, pummels nothing but the open air ahead. ~ 'DondaddyD'. Player of the Unspoken Game
  • bigmat
    bigmat Posts: 5,134
    It'll work out wheel size automatically after you've ridden a hundred metres or so - cross references with the GPS measured distance I think.

    Fitted cadence sensor to my winter bike last night, traditional frame with straight seat stays made the job a lot easier than on the Viner, also used a neodynium magnet behind the pedal which is a lot neater. Will have another look at the Viner at the weekend to see if it might work for that as well.
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/41991871@N ... otostream/
  • DonDaddyD
    DonDaddyD Posts: 12,689
    I can't fit the speed/cadence sensor and the candence magnet on my bike. The seat stay is too 'fancy'. I've had to extend the arm as well as it was hitting the spokes in the closed position. Gonna put electrical tape around the sensor to hold it in place as I'm a little worried it'll move towards the wheels/spokes.

    So other than needing a (small) neodynium magnet (to sit in the pedal spindle). I';m good to go.
    Food Chain number = 4

    A true scalp is not only overtaking someone but leaving them stopped at a set of lights. As you, who have clearly beaten the lights, pummels nothing but the open air ahead. ~ 'DondaddyD'. Player of the Unspoken Game
  • il_principe
    il_principe Posts: 9,155
    DonDaddyD wrote:
    I can't fit the speed/cadence sensor and the candence magnet on my bike. The seat stay is too 'fancy'. I've had to extend the arm as well as it was hitting the spokes in the closed position. Gonna put electrical tape around the sensor to hold it in place as I'm a little worried it'll move towards the wheels/spokes.

    So other than needing a (small) neodynium magnet (to sit in the pedal spindle). I';m good to go.

    The arm is supposed to be extended. IME it will always hit spokes otherwise. TBH that post is as clear as mud. Either you've fitted it or you haven't, which is it?
  • bigmat
    bigmat Posts: 5,134
    Il Principe wrote:
    DonDaddyD wrote:
    I can't fit the speed/cadence sensor and the candence magnet on my bike. The seat stay is too 'fancy'. I've had to extend the arm as well as it was hitting the spokes in the closed position. Gonna put electrical tape around the sensor to hold it in place as I'm a little worried it'll move towards the wheels/spokes.

    So other than needing a (small) neodynium magnet (to sit in the pedal spindle). I';m good to go.

    The arm is supposed to be extended. IME it will always hit spokes otherwise. TBH that post is as clear as mud. Either you've fitted it or you haven't, which is it?

    By extended, do you mean upwards? On the Prorace I have to stick it out a bit from the chainstay to get close enough to the wheel magnet. On the Viner clearances are a lot tighter, so I have ziptied it to the seat stay which gives just enough clearance for the magnet. I wouldn't fancy having the sensor arm pointing upwards - just looks far too vulnerable for my liking.
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/41991871@N ... otostream/
  • notsoblue
    notsoblue Posts: 5,756
    I wear my sensor up, it has stayed put for over a year now. No probs :D
    FCN 4 PX SL Pro SRAM Red
    FCN 8 Scott Sportster '05
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    BigMat wrote:
    It'll work out wheel size automatically after you've ridden a hundred metres or so - cross references with the GPS measured distance I think.

    D'uh! Of course it would!! I've never tried as I just use the GPS for speed.

    @DDD - for info, you only need the neodymium magnet for the cadence as the supplied magnet and mount should work well with the sensor arm for the speed. Someone did report having just put a neodymium magnet on a spoke without any other means of fixing. It stayed put for some distance before flying off. He later discovered it stuck to the underside of the caliper :lol:
    Faster than a tent.......
  • cyclingprop
    cyclingprop Posts: 2,426
    I've had no problem with the supplied magnets im honest. You wait they'll all drop off now.
    What do you mean you think 64cm is a big frame?
  • DonDaddyD
    DonDaddyD Posts: 12,689
    Sorry ill Prince,

    Sreaming baby and screaming fiance meant I was panic typing. OK it is fitted properly and it works.

    The one setback is my chainstay is too thick and does have a big enough gap for the cadence magnet to be fitted to the crank (arm) without the cadence magnet either rubbing against the chainstay or cadence sensor.

    That said using this thing is most enjoyable and actually using it while riding has helped me to understand it a lot more than sitting there reading manuals and internet guides.

    Wonderful piece of kit. Now I will scour the threads/net for routes.
    Food Chain number = 4

    A true scalp is not only overtaking someone but leaving them stopped at a set of lights. As you, who have clearly beaten the lights, pummels nothing but the open air ahead. ~ 'DondaddyD'. Player of the Unspoken Game
  • DonDaddyD
    DonDaddyD Posts: 12,689
    OK so the virtual trainer thing (the screen with the two bikes) how does it work out that information? Does it take past data permanently stored on the memory and then display your position/time/speed in relation to your past performance? Is this done automatically with the only, obvious, requirement that you ride/time the route at least once?
    Food Chain number = 4

    A true scalp is not only overtaking someone but leaving them stopped at a set of lights. As you, who have clearly beaten the lights, pummels nothing but the open air ahead. ~ 'DondaddyD'. Player of the Unspoken Game
  • Wrath Rob
    Wrath Rob Posts: 2,918
    You set the speed of the virtual trainer and it then compares your current average vs. the set one. More details here
    FCN3: Titanium Qoroz.
  • redvee
    redvee Posts: 11,922
    Virtual Trainer/Training Partner works best when the speed is set at 25mph :shock:
    I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.
  • Runoutofgears
    Runoutofgears Posts: 348
    I like the neo-doo-dah magnet idea, I too found fitting the sensor difficult, but found a picture of similar frame to mine on this forum (somewhere) which showed how. Yes, I'm sorry that won't help you DDD.
    I ache, therefore I am.
  • CRAIGO5000
    CRAIGO5000 Posts: 697
    I've found my niche with the 800 too now.

    I turned off all but one page and also workouts. I came to this conclusion after many rides and found you simply get bogged down too much when there is so much on screen data available - you become a robot looking for every bit of detail! I find it's better to analyse after the ride rather than during.

    My main page has 8 fields; speed, avg speed, ride time, distance, HR, HR zone (for zone training), temp, time of day.

    The reason for this is because I also plot routes and use the course feature lots. This means that with one swipe to the left, I can access the map and this tells me "dist to next turn" and "distance to destination". One swipe back means I'm back on the main page without scrolling through loads of pages to get back. A swipe to the right then brings up the elevation map where I have set "grade" and "total ascent" as my values. I've also changed the axis so that each square in the map represents a vertical of 80ft and horizontal of half a mile. It means that when climbing I can see the profile much more clearly over the next two miles. This means that on huge climbs, you know how to pace yourself.

    So basically when riding all I do now is start the timer and then swipe either left or right once to access all of that important data and I'm not a fumbling idiot anymore like I was when I first got the device!

    * Other important stuff to do:

    - Upgrade firmware to V2.40 if it isn't already.

    - Get a copy of the UK openstreetmaps cycle version - it's ace and free! The clarity is great on the garmin and road traces have been thinned to make them easy to follow. When following courses, turn off "recalculate route" If you don't and you stray off course, you are warned by the Garmin and it's easy to get back on course. If you have recalculate on, you'll find that the Garmin is likely to chase it's tail and people will look at you funny when you keep circling them over and over and over and over again....

    - On the map add a pin location near to your home that you regularly start rides from and then look up the elevation of that point on Google and then modify that pin's elevation. This means that when you start rides the Garmin sets it's elevation precisely off your programmed value and means that your elevation over a ride is consistent (barring barometric conditions after that initial value is taken)

    - In the same way, add another pin near to where you live and call it something like 001 - cafe. Secretly, this is near your home and means that it's always at the top of the locations list because of the 001 prefix. It also makes for quick access while riding when you've had enough and want to get back home.

    Enjoy!
    Ribble Stealth/SRAM Force
    2007 Specialized Allez (Double) FCN - 3
  • iPete
    iPete Posts: 6,076
    CRAIGO5000 nice write up! Thinking of splashing out on a 800, between that and bike upgrades I'm pretty sure the Garmin will make me ride more! I'm also sick of wanting to go on random rides only to have to stop, check iphone, wait for data to load, worry about battery use, go and repeat every few miles.

    Do people find the 800 good enough and quick enough for this? [turn by turn navigation?]
  • dhope
    dhope Posts: 6,699
    iPete wrote:
    CRAIGO5000 nice write up! Thinking of splashing out on a 800, between that and bike upgrades I'm pretty sure the Garmin will make me ride more! I'm also sick of wanting to go on random rides only to have to stop, check iphone, wait for data to load, worry about battery use, go and repeat every few miles.

    Do people find the 800 good enough and quick enough for this? [turn by turn navigation?]

    It's absolutely good enough for random rides. Can pick a location and it'll do turn by turn or just ride randomly then it'll guide you home. Or find routes online, I did a search on RideWithGPS for a route containing the word Tenterden that started within 5m of SW12, then tweaked the start and and points to suit. Got a nice 60miler with 3500ft of climbing to see the folks all sorted on country roads and turn by turn all the way.
    Rose Xeon CW Disc
    CAAD12 Disc
    Condor Tempo
  • iPete
    iPete Posts: 6,076
    Cheers, so its fairly easy to use sites like RidewithGPS/Strava(?) and share routes and load them up as courses? I want something I can for example chuck London to Brighton on the night before and just go out and do it without stopping or worrying about my iPhone battery.

    I decided to ride home from Southampton yesterday and it was a lot of hassle avoiding A roads and stopping at every turn in the country lanes to check the map.
  • optimisticbiker
    optimisticbiker Posts: 1,657
    iPete wrote:
    Cheers, so its fairly easy to use sites like RidewithGPS/Strava(?) and share routes and load them up as courses? I want something I can for example chuck London to Brighton on the night before and just go out and do it without stopping or worrying about my iPhone battery.

    I decided to ride home from Southampton yesterday and it was a lot of hassle avoiding A roads and stopping at every turn in the country lanes to check the map.
    Very easy.. I use RideWithGPS all the time, plot a route, play around with it till I'm happy, then download to the Edge800, turn it off and on, check the route is loaded ok and off i go... works a treat. Also now RideWithGPS displays ancillary data from the Edge800 such as temperature as well as HR and cadence when you load it back up.

    Here's next Sunday's proposed 78miler (3000' climbing), weather permitting!
    Invacare Spectra Plus electric wheelchair, max speed 4mph :cry:

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