Saddle height & bunny hopping
adrenalinemunki
Posts: 213
How do
So, probably due to my bmx background (albeit many moons ago) I really like popping over things and jumping about whenever the opportunity presents itself... Now then, when I set my saddle height at the optimum position for general riding (i set it to about my hib bone when standing next to the bike), climbing is comfortable, and it all feels just about right.
BUT, I can't bunny hop with the saddle this high, or at least no where near as high as I can when the saddle is lower since I can't scooch down before I jump upwards...
So my question is, is my technique wrong and I should be able to jump just as high with a high saddle, or is that a compromise you just have to make?
So, probably due to my bmx background (albeit many moons ago) I really like popping over things and jumping about whenever the opportunity presents itself... Now then, when I set my saddle height at the optimum position for general riding (i set it to about my hib bone when standing next to the bike), climbing is comfortable, and it all feels just about right.
BUT, I can't bunny hop with the saddle this high, or at least no where near as high as I can when the saddle is lower since I can't scooch down before I jump upwards...
So my question is, is my technique wrong and I should be able to jump just as high with a high saddle, or is that a compromise you just have to make?
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Comments
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Saddle height on a mountain bike is a compromise between pedalling efficiency, and manoeuvrability. Which way that compromise leans towards is your own choice.
It's also the reason that seatposts that are adjustable on-the-fly have become so popular, like a Joplin, Gravity dropper, or Reverb.
But, i's highly unlikely you'll be able to bunnyhop your mountain bike as high as the BMX anyway - the frame is larger, restricting the amount of "tuck".0 -
adrenalinemunki wrote:So my question is, is my technique wrong and I should be able to jump just as high with a high saddle, or is that a compromise you just have to make?
If your sessioning and doing bunnyhops etc lower your seat a bit, if your practicing jumping etc it helps to lower your seat until you get the hang of the bike.
Not down to technique just the bike being bigger as Yee says.0 -
Wow, didn't realise those remote seatposts existed! - Going to do me a bit of research!!!0
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(remote) adjustable seatpost on the Enduro I'm 'testing' is sweet.
Although it comes up with some real purpose - could do yourself some damage if you weren't concentrating
I would maybe consider buying one if they were half the price and had more than 100mm of difference between fully up & fully down. Doesn't come high enough to put me in optimum riding position (for climbing). Good bit of kit though"Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes
Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build
Trek Session 80 -
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I used to have a joplin on my hardtail and they are good and do help when your pointed down, I've just fitted a Reverd on my Reign which is plush but the bloody cable when its lowered bulges and hits the tyre, would be better with a lever on the seat.
And it was a bargain as well0 -
Joplin 4 on my bike, which has 4 inches (100mm) of drop. It's fine for almost all riding, but if I'm out sessioning some jumps, or DH, then I'll drop the entire seatpost right down.0
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adrenalinemunki wrote:Looks like the spesh and superstar models have 125mm of range
You're right - it is 125mm :oops:
200mm for £120 and I'll have one 8)"Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes
Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build
Trek Session 80 -
yeehaamcgee wrote:Joplin 4 on my bike, which has 4 inches (100mm) of drop. It's fine for almost all riding, but if I'm out sessioning some jumps, or DH, then I'll drop the entire seatpost right down.
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yeehaamcgee wrote:Joplin 4 on my bike, which has 4 inches (100mm) of drop. It's fine for almost all riding, but if I'm out sessioning some jumps, or DH, then I'll drop the entire seatpost right down.
Yeah - OK I've just got it set up wrong! Put the seatpost up and then drop the whole thing for DH session.
Joplins are the Crank Bros units, yeah?"Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes
Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build
Trek Session 80 -
You serious? If you were nearby, I'd actually come and give you a facepalm :roll:
Hang on, how near Meribel, or Morzine are you? I might have to pay you a visit early next year0 -
yeah - whatta muppet!
hahaha - I'm pretty near Meribel as the crow flies but in the winter the Col du Galibier is closed so it's a long old drive all the way round!"Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes
Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build
Trek Session 80 -
Are they all much of a muchness or are there a couple that really stand out?0
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adrenalinemunki wrote:Are they all much of a muchness or are there a couple that really stand out?
However, some are more agricultural in their build than others.0 -
Aye, they all have their ups and downs. Can't believe I just made that joke.
Pains me to admit it but the KS one sold by Superstar might just be the best of the current crop, once you've had it fixed a couple of times on warranty they work very well. My gravity dropper's given me less crap but otoh it's ugly and not quite as nice to use.Uncompromising extremist0 -
adrenalinemunki wrote:Are they all much of a muchness or are there a couple that really stand out?
Much of a muchness with these products. The old boy seems to be the Joplin, based on the old Maverick Speedball that was released in 2006, so the product is 5 years old
Also, some tend to have a bad reputation from issues experienced years back. The Joplin for instance was tarred with the same brush as the temperamental Speedball dropper. Crank Bros. bought Maverick out and made some major improvements
(I use a Joplin classic [30mm] and it's been flawless over 2 years)
The first generation KS i900 also had quite a few issues when first introduced, but they seem solid too nowadays
I've seen the RockShox Reverb fitted on a bike and although it's beautifully made, no idea why RS opted for a hydraulic activation. A cable is so much easier to replace at a trail center, opposed to bleeding a hydro unit. Also it's still a new product and there has been reports of a few niggles..
One thing I do recommend is remote activation for ANY dropper post. Beats taking your hand off the bars at any time to drop/raise it0 -
Before I get too excited, gonna check what diameter I need cuz although the spesh site says the '11 rockhopper has 30.9mm diameter, I could swear mine is 27.2 or something like that...
If it is indeed 30.9 (which I don't think it is) I'll be getting the command post or reverb me thinks - shame I wouldn't be able to make a reverb stealth fit they look awesome (http://www.moredirt.co.uk/stories/2012-RockShox-Reverb-Stealth-adjustable-seat-post/2190/)0 -
The reverb cable can be a pain when dropped fully, depending on frame design it can catch your tyre (which it does on mine)0
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wonder why they didn't have the hose exit on the lower (non-moving) section?0
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adrenalinemunki wrote:wonder why they didn't have the hose exit on the lower (non-moving) section?
(actually, I don't know of any seatpost that has the cable stuck to the static post, but I'm just using it as an excuse to have another dig at SRAM)0 -
I seeeeeeee
Well, here's a question then regarding SRAM (I think its regarding SRAM), the MMX version of this seatpost has a matchmaker clamp, is that something which works only with SRAM stuff?
I have shimano deore shifters and avid juicy 3 brakes so would I go with the MMX or standard version of the reverb?0 -
Yes, the matchmaker only works with (some) other SRAM/Avid stuff.
Shimano have a similar thing.0 -
The reason the cables usually go into the top (moving) part of the seatpost is just that this is where the actuating mechanism is on most posts. But there's some progress on that, the next version of the KS has a bottom-mounted cable, and the Reverb has that "through the frame" thing on the way though that's only for specific bikes.yeehaamcgee wrote:Because not a single SRAM item has had any sensible thought gone into it's design.(actually, I don't know of any seatpost that has the cable stuck to the static post, but I'm just using it as an excuse to have another dig at SRAM)
Gravity DropperUncompromising extremist0 -
Through the frame, only suitable for specific bikes, WAHAAAAY! Just what we've all been waiting for. OH, wait, hang on.0
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adrenalinemunki wrote:wonder why they didn't have the hose exit on the lower (non-moving) section?
Quite a few manufactuers are doing that for 2012. Being a cynic, I think that it's marketing tactic, get people to adopt a product with known disadvantages and then a couple of years later sell them an upgraded model.
http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Prototype- ... -2011.html
http://www.moredirt.co.uk/stories/2012- ... post/2190/
I predict that in 3 years time when enough people have been convinced to buy 29inch bike, all the manufactuers and press will be singing the praises of all new 24inch wheel models.0 -
So, in their infinite wisdom, RS makes the Reverb Stealth with bottom mount cable that will not suit all bikes, but will also make bleeding that much bleeding harder to accomplish.. wisdom...
The new KS offering looks good, but without sounding like a whinge, not all bikes can facilitate a top mount cable. Very nice though...0 -
so can I just confirm about this matchmaker thing... the MMX on the reverb would only be of use if I had SRAM shifters? i.e. of no use to me and I should search out the oh so elusive "standard" version?0
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adrenalinemunki wrote:so can I just confirm about this matchmaker thing... the MMX on the reverb would only be of use if I had SRAM shifters? i.e. of no use to me and I should search out the oh so elusive "standard" version?
But, I have been told that having the MMX version will not actually cause any problems if you use an otherwise all-Shimano setup.
Which does raise the fu**ing stupid question of... Why the hell bother making two different clamps anyway?
Another SRAM-ism that drives me insane.0 -
adrenalinemunki wrote:so can I just confirm about this matchmaker thing... the MMX on the reverb would only be of use if I had SRAM shifters? i.e. of no use to me and I should search out the oh so elusive "standard" version?
I believe Its the same lever just take the mmx bit off.0 -
So... after extensive reading, I've decided to wait and get the 2012 Reverb when it arrives
Now to play the waiting game, god knows when it will be released...
Thanks for your advice guys, invaluable as always0