Boardman CX Owners Thread

fret

23mm will fit at a push, but I would go with 25mm as they give a better ride and are almost as fast as 23's.

alexul

wow... didn't thought I could go that low, I was thinking maybe, and that's a big maybe, a 28. Sometimes I'm going through some really ruff terrain. But it's good to know the possibilities.

fret

I can confirm that 23's will fit as I have just swapped mine over from the 28's I have used all winter. The overall width is exactly the same as the rims, so 25mm would be best for fast road use and lack of weight.
I shall give a review tomorrow after riding it to work. I guess it won't be dissimilar to the CX9 when I had 23's fitted though.

fret

Here we go. Just got in so it's all fresh in my mind.
I used these that were hanging up in the shed after taking them off my road bike that had them fitted for the occasional winter use.

The 23's are definitely faster in getting up to speed and it's easier to keep it there too. At 130 grammes less apiece than the 28's you can certainly tell the difference.
I had a headwind this morning and whilst they spun up quicker I can't say I really noticed a great deal of difference. They felt faster, but it could have been just in my mind (you know, new bike = faster) but then I am still an old, unfit chap.
With the neutral and following wind there was a marked difference in acceleration and speed. Much faster in feel and the speedo agreed with this.
Ride didn't feel any harsher, despite 110-120psi and it turns into corners far easier, possibly due to less gyroscopic mass and different profile.

All in all I am pleased, but may save these for the winter bike and fit 25's.

essex-commuter

Got round to changing the shifters from SRAM to Shimano 105 a few weeks ago, well worth the effort.

Bought the 105's for £142 including cables, and just sold the SRAM Apex levers on eBay for.....£134!

tincaman

essex-commuter wrote:

Got round to changing the shifters from SRAM to Shimano 105 a few weeks ago, well worth the effort.

Bought the 105's for £142 including cables, and just sold the SRAM Apex levers on eBay for.....£134!

Excellent, did that too, although the total cost to change after I sold the Apex shifters was about £30 Got an almost new 105 rear mech for £20 too

ElliottDavo

No love for Sram?

arthur_scrimshaw

ElliottDavo wrote:

No love for Sram?

No it's the spawn of the devil (well Apex is at least)

That said I'm looking to upgrade my Cannondale road bike and would like Ultegra but it's BB30 so can't use the Merlin groupset options, buying piecemeal is expensive. I've caught myself looking at Red a few times :oops:

fret

I've been looking at RED and FORCE recently as well. The positive action of SRAM shifters sways me away from Ultegra.
I have had several incarnations of 105 and Ultegra, from 8 to 10 speed and actually prefer the older versions (600 series) of both.
But SRAM is far easier to use with thick winter gloves on and less chance of a missed gear when used off-road as well in my experience.
Oh, and they weigh less.

I'm taking the Ultegra road bike in tomorrow as it is a good forecast, should be a giggle seeing if I miss any gears.

gotwood25

I have done around 2000 miles on my CX Team and in the last week or developed a knocking/squeaking noise which I think is the bottom bracket although hard to pinpoint when I am on the bike. It only happens when I am sat on the bike and either pedalling or moving back and forth on the saddle.

The only small doubt that I have that its the bottom bracket is that it seems so loud, although not sure if the forks/frame maybe amplifying this a bit.

Can anyone shed any light on whether what I'm describing is likely to be this or could it be something else. Checked all the usual fittings and everything seems to be tight and where it should be.

heez29

See when you say usual fittings... Have you took the saddle off the rails cleaned it then put it back on?

gotwood25

It was cleaned a few weeks ago, checked it and its seated as it should be with no movement so don't think its that.

arthur_scrimshaw

gotwood25 wrote:

I have done around 2000 miles on my CX Team and in the last week or developed a knocking/squeaking noise which I think is the bottom bracket although hard to pinpoint when I am on the bike. It only happens when I am sat on the bike and either pedalling or moving back and forth on the saddle.

The only small doubt that I have that its the bottom bracket is that it seems so loud, although not sure if the forks/frame maybe amplifying this a bit.

Can anyone shed any light on whether what I'm describing is likely to be this or could it be something else. Checked all the usual fittings and everything seems to be tight and where it should be.

Remove the chain and spin the cranks, listen and feel for any roughness or obvious lateral movement. If this is ok check the non drive side crank arm is tight. The aluminium frame transmits sounds in an unpredictable way, a few weeks ago I thought my fork was coming apart, turned out to be the rear mudguard fitting.

fret

I hate noises. :evil:

It could be the seatpost moving/flexing.
It could be the back wheel moving.
It could be a loose crank arm
It could be a pedal.
It could be a noisy saddle. The Boardman ones are cheap, made by Velo.
It could also be the 'bars moving or the headstock/bearings. I've had 2 Boardmans now, a Road Team and the CX and both have had a creak from the front end under power, especially when standing up and I put it down to flex in the fork stem as it is carbon.
Mine will get a full 6 month/2000 mile service soon, so we'll see if it vanishes after it's stripped down and lubed.

Just a thought and often overlooked. I had a bike that made a creak every now and then, nothing was sure to set it off. I tightened everything, lubed and greased everything and after a few weeks I worked out it was only in a certain position on the crank rotation. It was slightly loose sprocket bolts and the sound gets amplified through the frame so it takes ages to find it.

gotwood25

Cheers for the feedback fella's, think I will just get it serviced and take it from there.

Noticed there is no noise when I am not on it turning the wheels/pedals so maybe I just need to lose some weight :-)

fret

:oops: So do I

essex-commuter

Take the seatpost out and remove the saddle. Clean, grease lightly, refit. The problem will go (OK I'm taking a bit of a punt here so I can look really cool if that is what it is!). I really do think that will fix it.

Mark the post and saddle rails before you remove so that you can fit them back exactly the same. You can use electricians tape to do this.

This will fix it (!), but if it doesn't do the same procedure as above but on your handlebars and stem.

meanredspider

fret wrote:

But SRAM is far easier to use with thick winter gloves on and less chance of a missed gear when used off-road as well in my experience.

...but brake feel is vastly improved by going to 105. In fact swapping to 105 was the single biggest improvement I made to my Boardman. The rest (of my perceived 105 benefits) I think are preferences: the lighter shifting of 105 in particular. SRAM feels agricultural in comparison.

essex-commuter

meanredspider wrote:

fret wrote:

But SRAM is far easier to use with thick winter gloves on and less chance of a missed gear when used off-road as well in my experience.

...but brake feel is vastly improved by going to 105. In fact swapping to 105 was the single biggest improvement I made to my Boardman. The rest (of my perceived 105 benefits) I think are preferences: the lighter shifting of 105 in particular. SRAM feels agricultural in comparison.

+1

arthur_scrimshaw

essex-commuter wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

fret wrote:

But SRAM is far easier to use with thick winter gloves on and less chance of a missed gear when used off-road as well in my experience.

...but brake feel is vastly improved by going to 105. In fact swapping to 105 was the single biggest improvement I made to my Boardman. The rest (of my perceived 105 benefits) I think are preferences: the lighter shifting of 105 in particular. SRAM feels agricultural in comparison.

+1

+ 2 (zillion)

gotwood25

essex-commuter wrote:

Take the seatpost out and remove the saddle. Clean, grease lightly, refit. The problem will go (OK I'm taking a bit of a punt here so I can look really cool if that is what it is!). I really do think that will fix it.

Mark the post and saddle rails before you remove so that you can fit them back exactly the same. You can use electricians tape to do this.

This will fix it (!), but if it doesn't do the same procedure as above but on your handlebars and stem.

I like your confidence, I will give this a go tonight and let you know if you look really cool or not

I really do hope you are though as I can't be bothered to lose any weight!

brassnipple

ElliottDavo wrote:

No love for Sram?

Hi everyone, first post here and I am now the owner of a Boardman CX Pro which has the SRAM Force shifters. As a life long Shimano devotee I have to say that I am really impressed with the SRAM Force set up (was orignally going to change to Ultegra). The action is not as light and smooth as Ultegra (Shimano's equivalent group set), but it feels a lot more positive and 'snappy' in use - which is what you need when off-road. I can see why its popular with CX racers. No ghost shifts so far and very, very light.

tincaman

ElliottDavo wrote:

No love for Sram?

Rival works really well on my other bike, just Apex never worked as well

fret

Well, it raineth again, so no comparison with the Ultegra today.
I've said more than once on here that SRAM feels more agricultural than SHIMANO, but the positive action is far better for precise shifting and I never thought I would praise SRAM at all an actually avoided any bike with it fitted.
But then most american things are agricultural (Thinks cars and Hardleygoes Davidsons) when compared to the rest of the world.
Some say APEX compares to TIAGRA, others say 105. I don't think it compares to 105 in feel, but in operation and precise shifts it certainly beats them.
With winter gloves on there are hardly any errors in shifting when compared to Shimano as there's just one lever to worry about. At 06:30 in -10C the last thing I want is to worry about gearchanges It's a bit like changing from the old SORA to 105. Far slicker shift, but the SORA felt a bit more positive.
During the winter CX sportive I did in March also had no problems with any missed shifts in the 50 miles of mixed terrain. As brassnipple says, it's the OFF-ROAD use that really benefits

brassnipple wrote:

ElliottDavo wrote:

No love for Sram?

Hi everyone, first post here and I am now the owner of a Boardman CX Pro which has the SRAM Force shifters. As a life long Shimano devotee I have to say that I am really impressed with the SRAM Force set up (was orignally going to change to Ultegra). The action is not as light and smooth as Ultegra (Shimano's equivalent group set), but it feels a lot more positive and 'snappy' in use - which is what you need when off-road. I can see why its popular with CX racers. No ghost shifts so far and very, very light.

After changing the front mech to FORCE I can see the vast difference over cheaper equipment and would love to have the opportunity of trying RED or FORCE before making my mind up.

I'm actually contradicting myself at times as I have used Ultegra and 105 on my road bike and commuter over the last umpteen years and have never really had any shifting problems other than a frozen cable once. It's just that after riding 9 miles each way to/from work every day through the winter with SRAM I know that they are easier to operate with thick gloves on, although the older 5600 and 6600 Shimano to me are far slicker and work with a watchlike precision and ease. The new 6700 is a harsher operation, plus you can only shift down 2 ratios at a time (3 on the '600's) and this is a stiffer operation due to the under tape cable routing on the 'bars, but still not so harsh as the APEX.

Now that warmer days are here then perhaps my mind may change with summer gloves on.

but brake feel is vastly improved by going to 105

That's interesting to hear as AVID brakes are designed for specific use by SRAM. I bet it could upset some.

I can't believe I am defending SRAM so much as I am such an ardent Shimano fan and user over the years. :oops:
I guess much depends on how one feels as an individual on which to go with.

brassnipple

Yep fret, I think we have had similar experiences SRAM / Shimano shifters. I custom specced my Boardman (found a great independent bike shop that sells the Pro range) and was determined to bin the SRAM force and get Ultegra 6700. However, when I actually tried the two I was forced to admit that the performance of the force shifters was almost as good on road (a bit clunkier as you and others have noted), but leaves Ultegra for dead when off road and things get a bit bumpy. Also Ultegra seems to suffer a lot more from friction from the under tape cable routing vs Force, which is as smooth as you like.

The thing I really love about force (so far!) is that a click, even under pressure, means I've 'definitely' changed a gear - on Shimano a click under pressure means I've 'probably' changed a gear and have to hope that I get a snappy shift. I Put the 2013 force crankset on as well, which chopped off a load of weight vs the stock FSA Energy and adds (IMHO) a much stiffer big ring (still 50/34 set up) which obviously helps with the 'feel' of shifts.

My only outstanding Gripe with SRAM is the hood shape - it looks fine, but simply not as comfortable (for my big mitts at least) as Shimano. Still tinkering with set up (oh the joy of a new bike) but finding that I have to set the hoods very high compared to Shimano to get similar level of comfort.

fret

I've also found SRAM have a bigger "step" at the beginning of the hood where it meets the 'bars. Shimano is thinner and tapered.

fret

"The thing I really love about force (so far!) is that a click, even under pressure, means I've 'definitely' changed a gear - on Shimano a click under pressure means I've 'probably' changed a gear and have to hope that I get a snappy shift. "

This is what many say on tests. It's very easy to accidentally shift up on Shimano.

fret

It's sunny at last and the Ribble came out today, lovely and light and I can certainly feel the 3.3kg difference!

Quick comparison back to back with the Sram Apex.
Ultegra 6700 is still extremely gorgeous and light in operation, only one "missed" shift down when changing 2 gears at once, probably due to it not being used for a couple of months and took a slight finger pressure to get it in properly.
Only cocked up one change whilst going up a hill :oops:

Although it's not a fair comparison as Apex is nearer to 105/Tiagra I have come up with the following conclusion.

SRAM: More precise, but an agricultural feel with big "clunks" Rear is a dream to use. Better off road (I have used 105 on CX) Current incarnation has better hoods designed for CX as well.

SHIMANO: Watchlike shifts (old 600 is even slicker) Not such a positive action or an assured feel when shifting due to the movement of the levers and lack of sound. Beautiful operation though. More comfortable hoods. The levers seem to move more than the Sram before shifting as well. There's also the occasional missed shift if the lever doesn't return all the way if your gloves get in the way, I didn't get that this morning but have done in the past.

If I had to choose it would be the following

SRAM rear lever operation
SHIMANO front lever operation

Still confused? Yup, so am I. There is no "best"

Oh, and where were the brakes?

alexul

fret wrote:

I hate noises. :evil:
It could also be the 'bars moving or the headstock/bearings. I've had 2 Boardmans now, a Road Team and the CX and both have had a creak from the front end under power, especially when standing up and I put it down to flex in the fork stem as it is carbon.
Mine will get a full 6 month/2000 mile service soon, so we'll see if it vanishes after it's stripped down and lubed.

Mine just started to have this symptom. In my case I think it comes from the stem or its clamp. If I put all my weight on the top bar or even the stem its self nothing. Once I put pressure on the handlebars I hear 1 or 2 creaks. When going over a small bump, creaking again. When I attached the handlebars to the stem, I forgot to grease so it was metal on metal. I greased it now but in vain. It also makes the same creaking noise when I tighten the bolts on the clamp of the stem. And I don't think I over tight them, I apply only a small pressure and it also takes almost no effort to release them and I can hardly be considered strong. Now I just think that the plate of the stem didn't fit perfectly on the handlebars. I find it very difficult to put that small piece over the handlebars in a perfect position and then tight all the bolts equally. I can clearly see that my lower bolts go deeper than the upper ones.
This gives me just another reason to change the stem

fret

As if we need a reason to upgrade

A few missed changes on the way home tonight, but isn't Ultegra lovely and slick? :oops: