Single ring on a AM/Trail Hardtail
h34e0f
Posts: 370
I love to pound my bike, and my poor Deore spec Genesis struggles to keep up. Now I'm all about the idea of a custom build recently and so a hardcore steel HT frame is a definate. However I'm toying with the idea of a single ring up front (I hardly use my second ring, and don't know if my bike will even go into third - never even tried).
My problem is this; my knowledge and understanding of gear ratios etc. for bikes is limited, so I'm not sure what set up I should be looking at for the rear if I were to go ahead with a single ring up front.
Does anyone have any experience with a single ring transmission on a trail/HT bike? Is it viable or is it just wishful thinking?
My problem is this; my knowledge and understanding of gear ratios etc. for bikes is limited, so I'm not sure what set up I should be looking at for the rear if I were to go ahead with a single ring up front.
Does anyone have any experience with a single ring transmission on a trail/HT bike? Is it viable or is it just wishful thinking?
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On a more helpful note, yes people do have trail bikes with one ring up front - I have a Giant Reign with a 32 teeth chainring.
All depends on a lot of variables.0 -
It'll work, but the normal advice is to go for something similar to your middle ring.
How do you not use it?! :?
Are you running a very crossed chain when on anything flat/downhill? So on the smallest ring at the front, and the smallest cogs at the back?0 -
h34e0f wrote:
Ah, I think he, (and me) was thinking that 'first ring' meant the smallest/"granny" ring.
At the front you got the granny(or inner), middle and outer (or big) rings. I think 99% of people would call the granny the 'first' ring'
In that case, how do you climb?! in big rings front and back? Or have you got legs like mighty oaks?!
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bails87 wrote:It'll work, but the normal advice is to go for something similar to your middle ring.
How do you not use it?! :?
Are you running a very crossed chain when on anything flat/downhill? So on the smallest ring at the front, and the smallest cogs at the back?
Hell no, largest cog up front all the time, apart from 5% of the time on the VERY steep hills where everyone else walks, and I change to middle ring (only when I start stalling with big-big ratio). Never used smallest ring.
On flat I use largest up front, smallest back, and dh I have to use largest and largest to help chain from falling off. Uphill I start with big up front, smallest back (obviously) and move downwards as necessary. I tend to stay somewhere in the larger middle at the back on most climbs0 -
h34e0f wrote:[Hell no, largest cog up front all the time, apart from 5% of the time on the VERY steep hills where everyone else walks, and I change to middle ring (only when I start stalling with big-big ratio).
Are you Chris Hoy? :shock:
But seriously, you shouldn't use the big-big combo, you can get the same ratio by using a middle sprocket with the middle chainring. It's better for the chain and the rear mech.
Anyway, on the topic of single rings, assuming you've got 22/32/44t chainrings you could split the difference between big and middle (seeing as that's all you use) and get something like a 38t ring up front.0 -
Mmmm, I'm glad I'm not your chain!Trail fun - Transition Bandit
Road - Wilier Izoard Centaur/Cube Agree C62 Disc
Allround - Cotic Solaris0 -
bails87 wrote:Oh, and get a chain device to keep the chain on the chainrings. You can use a locked out front mech for this while you test the setup.
Well the idea behind moving to single ring is the ability to use a chain guide, otherwise I'd get a double ring for ease.
So you're saying that I can get a single ring at a size which will be effectively half way between my current two larger rings? So having the easier half of the large ring with the tougher half of the middle ring? That would be ideal as I'd only be losing the two/three stiffest gears which i only tend to use at very high speed/on road anyway..0 -
i used to have a 1x9 setup on my Scott
it worked fine for commuting, using a 36T up front, but for trail use (even moving back to 32T) i did struggle with the lack of variety, especially on long climbs
for my new build (which will be purely trail/AM use) ive gone back to 2x90 -
DCR00 wrote:i used to have a 1x9 setup on my Scott
it worked fine for commuting, using a 36T up front, but for trail use (even moving back to 32T) i did struggle with the lack of variety, especially on long climbs
for my new build (which will be purely trail/AM use) ive gone back to 2x9
Well whatever happens I definitely won't be using a 3x* it's just pointless. I may go for a 2x9 or 2x10 though. I guess it's just a case of trying things out to see how it will suit.
Thanks for responses / info
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I'm thinking maybe a 2x9 with a chain device would be a safer option. Wasn't aware you could get a device for a double ring0
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You keep going round in circles.
I think you'll stay with 3 rings. There are so many hills in Plymouth, simply can't beleive you've never used your granny.0 -
1x9 with a 11-36 cassette on the back does cover most eventualities (with a front ring of between 32 and 34).
Having the 36 ring on the cassette made all the difference to my set up.Trail fun - Transition Bandit
Road - Wilier Izoard Centaur/Cube Agree C62 Disc
Allround - Cotic Solaris0 -
Chunkers1980 wrote:I think you'll stay with 3 rings. There are so many hills in Plymouth, simply can't beleive you've never used your granny.
Well I'm heading up to Afan on Sunday so I'll double check my figures. I'll see which is the lowest ratio I use. But frankly, I find anything in the granny gear un-ridable, as you just can't get enough torque down. I've also never found anything that requires it.
Around town on the roads there's no need for anything but the largest ring, it's smooth after all. I'm not afraid to get out of the saddle and work for it mind.0 -
It's much less knackering to sit down, spin smoothly and actually use your gears though, it'll also stop your knees from exploding!
2x9 is good, but obviously the weight saving is much less as you still need the shifter and front mech.
I've got a 2x9 setup, with an 11-34 cassette and 24 and 38t chainrings, which I find spot on.
I demoed a 1x10 Whyte 146 the other week, and while it was just about usable where we were riding, if there were any more sustained climbs I'd have wanted a granny ring. But that's because I've got skinny legs and prefer spinning to stomping. Because it was ten speed it was 11-36t on the back, which gave a little more range.
As for what size ring to go for....it's up to you. You can get them in a wide range, you just have to look at yourself, your riding and the rest of the setup to decide what's appropriate.0 -
bails87 wrote:It's much less knackering to sit down, spin smoothly and actually use your gears though, it'll also stop your knees from exploding!
2x9 is good, but obviously the weight saving is much less as you still need the shifter and front mech.
I've got a 2x9 setup, with an 11-34 cassette and 24 and 38t chainrings, which I find spot on.
I demoed a 1x10 Whyte 146 the other week, and while it was just about usable where we were riding, if there were any more sustained climbs I'd have wanted a granny ring. But that's because I've got skinny legs and prefer spinning to stomping. Because it was ten speed it was 11-36t on the back, which gave a little more range.
As for what size ring to go for....it's up to you. You can get them in a wide range, you just have to look at yourself, your riding and the rest of the setup to decide what's appropriate.
Yeah it seems our styles of riding are polar opposites! I'm not fussed about weight and I hate spinning!
I'll try to get some demo bikes and see how things work out0 -
h34e0f wrote:But frankly, I find anything in the granny gear un-ridable, as you just can't get enough torque down. I've also never found anything that requires it..
This is on the ring that you have never tried and don't even know if your bike will shift into it?
I find riding trails through the woods, middle and large is mostly all I need... but towards the end of a ride when I am really losing energy and sometimes motivation, I do like to change into it and appreciate the break it gives me on a hill I might walk otherwise.
I now have a 2 x 10 which is a great drive train for power transfer (feels almost as good as being on my old hardtail), but when riding on the road I miss a larger ring and spin a lot once I get up speed. The large ring up front on this one is a 38. I haven't been in the woods on this bike yet as I was trying to sell it (just about given up now)... so I may well find I don't miss a larger ring up front at all without tarmac / farm trails under wheel.0 -
Heavy-ish AM hardtail. 1x9. 36T front. 11-34 rear.
Easy enough round here where it's flat, but also taken to Brecon, Brechfa, Laggan, Dalby and Moray and not been found wanting.
If I need anything lower than the 36-34 I'll get off and walk.
slainte rob 0 -
I used to ride 1 x 8 with a 42 tooth chainring up front. This was doing a lot of the trail centres (Glentress, Ae, etc) up here. It can be done, but to be honest I'm soooo glad I've got a double now. I used to take pride in grinding my way up hill in 42 - 32, but now I'm just pleased if I ride up hill in anything other than 32 - 34!0
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Interesting topic..
I barely ever use my 44T/outer chainring at Cannock, 95% of my riding is done on the 32T/centre chainring, this is on a FS All Mountain bike
I've been contemplating a 2x9 dual chainring setup for some time, but lately have been thinking about a 1x10 with a 34T chainring setup. I believe that should cover me for most riding.
My 4th bike is almost complete, it's an On-One 456 Summer Season and I am going to fit a single 34T chainring with 10 notches on the rear. If I don't get on with it, I can always use the dual MegaExo chainring I've already bought.0 -
I run 2x9 with a 32t middle ring - I have to admit I rely on the 22t granny for climbs - not helped by my soggy coil shock on the rear of my Heckler, no ability to stand and power up. But I do find I am under geared on the downs - could do with a 34 or 36t mid ring.
I run a E13 chainguide ont he front which is very good for retaining the chain on bumpy descents.Closet jockey wheel pimp whore.0 -
I run a 1x10 on my mmmbop with a 36 front and a 11-36 back, it gives me a gear for long gradual climbs to spin up with and doesn't really affect downhill as i hardly used the 3rd ring on my chainset unless i was commuting on road.0
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Due to the absence of a working front mech, i've been running 1 x 9 on my HT for a couple of weeks with the same ratios as Mr_B1989.
I kinda like it, can get round all my regular routes and am faster, being forced to work harder is quite cool.....but i am going to put it back to 3 rings as it gives the bike greater flexibility. I use the bike for all day rides in the mountains, as well as a few hours blasting round a TC or the local woods.
On my FS its a 22 and a 34, frankly i dont miss the big ring at all; it tends to be steep up or steep down when i'm on that bike and if i'm at the speed when i'm spinning out on the middle its usually time to be applying the brakes rather than speeding up!0 -
Single ring's a lot down to personal taste, and your own fitness, and where you ride of course.
My rigid XC bike is 1x9 with a 32T sprocket- it's low enough to get up most hills, and high enough not to be a bother at the speeds a rigid XC bike usually sees... But I'd not want that on my bigger bikes, since they can carry a bit more pace, the low gearign would be annoying.
Not for everyone but worth investigating though.Uncompromising extremist0 -
I have run 1x9 for nearly 2 years. Reason was that I could'nt afford to replace all the chain rings when I was getting chain suck and the simplicity appealed.
I worked out the highest and lowest gear ratios I had with 3x9 and compared that to the ratios for 1x9 to get the best setup for me. It worked out I only lost the very 2 lowest (slower than walking) and 1 highest - I some times need that on fast downhill roads only, but free wheel.
33 front
11-34 back
Due to the annoyance of wear, I manage to use a surly stainless steel ring up front (single speed). I had to file off 0.2mm off the width of the tooth to get the 9spd chain to fit/release properly. I only use the jump-stop with a bash ring, and never had a dropped chain - did snowdon at the weekend, and not one drop.
check out sheldon brown to work out the ratios for you.0 -
I've been running 1 x 9 on my Edison for about 6 months and can honestly say it is one of the best moves I've made. You've got to be pretty fit and able to both power it at times and also spin high cadences at others, but that's something to work on and you'll see awesome fitness benefits.
I run a 34t Blackspire ring with a Superstar Plasma device and a PG990 11-34 cassette. Race and ride on it every week including trail centres, natural and local trails. TBH with a wide ratio cassette, there is zero reason anyone shouldn't be able to do it. It's just down to developing the fitness.0 -
I run 1x9 on both my bikes with a 36t ring up front, works for most things & easier than single speed.
I'm pretty sure that there are no chain devices which will work with a big ring. You can have either middle & granny or middle only. How do you not snap chains riding everything in the big ring?Transition Patrol - viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=130702350 -
Big ring I ditched as I never use it. Don't ride on roads to get to those speeds pedalling, and don't do much speedy XC singletrack. If it's fast, it's downhill and pedalling is not required for me.
My front mech has always been pretty shot and it won't drop into the granny anyway, so really I'm running single
(strangely it'll drop to the granny when not on the bike or when going downhill, but not on the bike up hill).0
