Buying speed, cranks?

iPete
iPete Posts: 6,076
edited July 2011 in Commuting chat
Love how my bike feels running lighter wheels/tubes/tyres; can you achieve the same sensation by reducing rotational weight at the crank?

If the answer is yes some buying advice wouldn't go amiss! Needs to be as durable as the current Sora which is 11,500 miles young. Happy to spend upto £200 but if the answer is no, equally happy to keep on wearing out the Sora!

Current setup:
Chainset: Shimano Sora Double
Chainrings: 50 x 34T
Arm: 175mm

Cassette: Shimano HG-50, 9-speed, 12-25t
Bike: http://www.evanscycles.com/products/spe ... e-ec019409
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Comments

  • cjcp
    cjcp Posts: 13,345
    You might be able to pick up the old 9spd DA on ebay, but I wouldn't use DA on the commute, especially with the mileage you do.

    I don't notice any difference between 105 and Ultegra on the commute. You're more likely to buy speed through a faster wheelset, but they wills not necessarily be compatible with the commute.

    At the end of the day though, it's down to the legs and lungs. :wink:
    FCN 2-4.

    "What happens when the hammer goes down, kids?"
    "It stays down, Daddy."
    "Exactly."
  • Gussio
    Gussio Posts: 2,452
    On one / Planet X have a good sale on 9-sp stuff at the moment. You could invest in a lighter chain and cassette in anticipation of a change?
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,064
    you got 11,5k out of a crankset? :shock: I'd suggest you contact Shimano that might be a record.

    As cjcp said 105 will be more than fine esp coupled with some good wheels.
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
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    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • iPete
    iPete Posts: 6,076
    Not the entire set; the crank and derailleurs have gone the distance and still have life in em but do need to replace the ninja star pulley wheels, maybe time for ceramic bearings.

    Think I'll keep using the Sora till it starts to fail.

    Do have some nice RS80 wheels but only come out for events and possibly good weather; which there has been none of yet!
  • cjcp
    cjcp Posts: 13,345
    What do the teeth on the chainset, sprockets and jockey wheels look like? If they resemble shark's teeth, it's time to change them.
    FCN 2-4.

    "What happens when the hammer goes down, kids?"
    "It stays down, Daddy."
    "Exactly."
  • Blue Meanie
    Blue Meanie Posts: 495
    Rotational momentum of the crank? Try new shoes! Or lightweight socks... Or fit a compact...
    Seriously though, the answer's yes, but there's better places to 'lose weight' on a bike, like a DA BB
    FCN16 - 1970 BSA Wayfarer

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  • iPete
    iPete Posts: 6,076
    cjcp wrote:
    What do the teeth on the chainset, sprockets and jockey wheels look like? If they resemble shark's teeth, it's time to change them.

    FSA sealed ceramics in the post :lol:
    IMG_7762.jpg

    Didn't notice how bad the crank was until I looked at the small ring! The chain is also sitting really badly and rubbing on the front derailleur.

    Looks like a new outer ring is a must at minimum!
    IMG_7767.jpg
    IMG_7771.jpg

    Cassette appears to be ok.
    IMG_7763.jpg
    Blue Meanie wrote:
    Rotational momentum of the crank? Try new shoes! Or lightweight socks... Or fit a compact...
    Seriously though, the answer's yes, but there's better places to 'lose weight' on a bike, like a DA BB

    Have actually been looking at new shoes, my Shimano MO76 are developing holes!

    DA BB? I've got a FSA ceramic BB in, not keen to replace until I kill it.
  • davis
    davis Posts: 2,506
    Looks like an entire drivetrain change to me. I think you'd have a nightmare trying to get new bits to play nicely with what you've got.

    It has been halfway round the world, after all. (Chapeau)

    As above, I probably wouldn't go above 105.
    Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.
  • SmellTheGlove
    SmellTheGlove Posts: 697
    itboffin wrote:
    :shock: I'd suggest you contact Campag that might be a Record.

    FTFY
    "Consider the grebe..."
  • cjcp
    cjcp Posts: 13,345
    You could shop around for a new outer chainring, but it's not always economical. New cassette needed, too.
    FCN 2-4.

    "What happens when the hammer goes down, kids?"
    "It stays down, Daddy."
    "Exactly."
  • iPete
    iPete Posts: 6,076
    Does the cassette looked worn or should you replace both + chain at the same time?

    A new outer ring is only £27and I'm looking to strike a balance between price, durability and speed. Ultimately I want to get this bike around the world (18k+), keep hammering it year round on my commute and use it for (hopefully) Ironman next year. There needs to be a balance as I can't help but look at the Focus Cayo with 105 currently £880 on wiggle!
  • cjcp
    cjcp Posts: 13,345
    The cassette will wear your new chain faster. Worth getting a new cassette - it's had a good innings.
    FCN 2-4.

    "What happens when the hammer goes down, kids?"
    "It stays down, Daddy."
    "Exactly."
  • greg66_tri_v2.0
    greg66_tri_v2.0 Posts: 7,172
    Industrial strength cleaner plus a good brush.

    You'll be amazed how much lighter the drivetrain feels for it. I
    Swim. Bike. Run. Yeah. That's what I used to do.

    Bike 1
    Bike 2-A
  • spasypaddy
    spasypaddy Posts: 5,180
    youve got half the dirt in the world on that drivechain. get it cleaned!
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  • iPete
    iPete Posts: 6,076
    Ha yes, it was stripped and cleaned 2 weeks ago! That's what the London monsoons have managed to add in a very short period of time. When my new pulleys arrive I'll strip it all down again.
  • esspeebee
    esspeebee Posts: 174
    Based on the way the chain is sitting on the chainring, it's stretched quite a long way. The fact that it looks like it's sitting OK on the sprockets just means that the cassette is equally worn out, and will knacker a new chain rather quickly. Similar goes for the jockeys. If you're going to replace any of those, it'll be well worth doing them all at once.
  • Headhuunter
    Headhuunter Posts: 6,494
    Those jockey wheels are amazing! They look needle sharp, you could probably use them as mini ninja throwing stars after you've removed them!
    Do not write below this line. Office use only.
  • ince
    ince Posts: 289
    Could get a whole 105 off of Merlin for around the £300 mark with the vip discount. This would then leave you spare parts to start putting together another bike. 8)
  • wgwarburton
    wgwarburton Posts: 1,863
    iPete wrote:
    Love how my bike feels running lighter wheels/tubes/tyres; can you achieve the same sensation by reducing rotational weight at the crank?...

    No.
    When you accelerate you need to spin up the drivetrain, but the gears mean that the wheels spin faster than the cranks and the rims+tyres are the furthest parts away from the centre, so that's where the mass has the most effect.
    Lightening the tyres makes a big difference to the amount of energy you have to use to spin the drivetrain up to speed. The weight on the cranks is much less significant, and the weight differences between cranksets are pretty small.
    Pedal/shoe weight would make a bit more difference (again, distance from centre of rotation impacts the angular momentum) but not as much as weight at the rims.

    Cheers,
    W.
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,064
    You have been reported for crimes against bike maintenance
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • rjsterry
    rjsterry Posts: 29,382
    +1. I thought mine was bad, but feel much better about it now. Those jockey wheels are like spurs!
    1985 Mercian King of Mercia - work in progress (Hah! Who am I kidding?)
    Pinnacle Monzonite

    Part of the anti-growth coalition
  • ex-pat scot
    ex-pat scot Posts: 939
    ince wrote:
    Could get a whole 105 off of Merlin for around the £300 mark with the vip discount. This would then leave you spare parts to start putting together another bike. 8)

    That's what I'd do as well.
    You currently need cassette, chain, rear mech (possibly), chainset.
    That's £150 - £200 depending on quality of kit.

    Frankly you'd be better off with new 105 then eBaying anything left over really.
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  • unixnerd
    unixnerd Posts: 2,864
    If your outer chainring is that worn you might want to check your bottom bracket too. Spin the cranks with the chain removed and see if it feels gritty or has any play.

    I'd also wonder about your wheel bearings. Remove the wheel and hold it by the ends of the axle. Spin the wheel and as before look for a gritty feeling or any play.

    Upgrading the cranks to a lighter set will make only a tiny difference in terms of rotational inertia.
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  • iPete
    iPete Posts: 6,076
    BB was replaced after 8k and the wheels are not original, each has done a different mileage, spinning ok still.

    So now I'm tempted to buy an entire groupset but I only really need the crank, cassette and chain. Could somebody explain the phenomenal difference in price between these 105 groups!

    £285.00 Shimano 105 5600
    £414.95 Shimano 105 5700

    edit: concealed cables sound cool, my bike is a cable mess! I'm gonna have to re-tape the bars whilst I'm at it..

    As for maintenance; that's what 100+ miles a week in London does very very quickly. :evil:
    I'll have my jockey wheels on eBay next week under ninja memorabilia.
  • Gazzaputt
    Gazzaputt Posts: 3,227
    I think you like my farther must use 3in1 to lube the chain.

    I ride in the same rain and my drive chain still looks pristine.
  • Headhuunter
    Headhuunter Posts: 6,494
    iPete wrote:
    BB was replaced after 8k and the wheels are not original, each has done a different mileage, spinning ok still.

    So now I'm tempted to buy an entire groupset but I only really need the crank, cassette and chain. Could somebody explain the phenomenal difference in price between these 105 groups!

    £285.00 Shimano 105 5600
    £414.95 Shimano 105 5700

    edit: concealed cables sound cool, my bike is a cable mess! I'm gonna have to re-tape the bars whilst I'm at it..

    As for maintenance; that's what 100+ miles a week in London does very very quickly. :evil:
    I'll have my jockey wheels on eBay next week under ninja memorabilia.

    Isn't 5700 just a newer version than 5600? Or may 5700 is the triple chainset and 5600 is the double...
    Do not write below this line. Office use only.
  • cjcp
    cjcp Posts: 13,345
    @HH - something like that. I've got 5600 on my commuter. Works fine.
    FCN 2-4.

    "What happens when the hammer goes down, kids?"
    "It stays down, Daddy."
    "Exactly."
  • iPete
    iPete Posts: 6,076
    I'm bit of a tart and will take whatever one comes in black but scarily for double the money of the 5700 I could have a Cayo with 105!

    Anyway classic BR, you guys as always superb! I've come on with upgrades on the mind and now need to spend even more fixing the damn thing :lol:

    @Gazzaputt using Finish line wet lube, any recommendations? Thinking of going for the green eco stuff next...
  • Mr Sharky
    Mr Sharky Posts: 172
    cjcp wrote:
    What do the teeth on the chainset, sprockets and jockey wheels look like? If they resemble shark's teeth, it's time to change them.
    <pedant> What species? Not all shark's teeth are the same... </pedant> :wink:
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  • iPete
    iPete Posts: 6,076
    One last thing; how can I work out whether I have an English or Italian BB thread?

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