Pedal WILL NOT come off!!!!!
RupertCommunicator
Posts: 734
Ok, My Kona Wah Wah drive side pedal is not coming off. They are 6mm Allen key only, no spanners. Have rounded about 6 allen keys on it, including expensive Chrome Vanadium ones. Am turning the right way, have tried WD40, chain lube, boiling water, frozen peas on the axle, wrecking bar, hammer, holding the axle over my stove.
THE BASTARD WON'T COME OFF!
Help me, for my sanity's sake!
THE BASTARD WON'T COME OFF!
Help me, for my sanity's sake!
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Comments
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Are you SURE you're turning it the right way?
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Yes, I check every time! Looking at the other pedal I'm about to put in to check that it would indeed move the thread outwards.
My sanity is slipping away.
Would freezing it overnight do anything, or should I go balls deep and heat the crank for about a minute over my gas cooker?0 -
Your sure you are inserting the allen key properly as well and not forcing it out as you are trying to force the thing to budge, I've rounded many an allen key doing this0
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The keys are in fully and straight in.0
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Have you tried giving the allen key a couple of taps with a hammer,then put the ring of a 17 or 19 mm spanner on it and give it a try
Try soaking it in WD 40 overnight but I wouldn't try heating it.I assume this is French petrol - be careful in reverse - the car will retreat rapidly at the least provocation.0 -
Lapierre t 400 wrote:Have you tried giving the allen key a couple of taps with a hammer,then put the ring of a 17 or 19 mm spanner on it and give it a try
Try soaking it in WD 40 overnight but I wouldn't try heating it.
I've tried twatting it with a hammer then using an old handlebar for leverage. Hence my half dozen bent, twisted and rounded allen keys.0 -
are the pedals dead?I assume this is French petrol - be careful in reverse - the car will retreat rapidly at the least provocation.0
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No! Just switching from flats to SPDs!0
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if they were I would have suggested drilling them outI assume this is French petrol - be careful in reverse - the car will retreat rapidly at the least provocation.0
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I might have a drive to the local garage tommorrow and see if they have an ubertool with a 6mm hex on the end.0
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you could try getting it off with some of these and a ratchet
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... key-sets-2I assume this is French petrol - be careful in reverse - the car will retreat rapidly at the least provocation.0 -
You need more torque, I'd suggest a BMW 335D.0
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Before you rounded off the allen fitting you should have used an impact screwdriver. You might still get away with that.http://www.strathspey.co.uk - Quality Binoculars at a Sensible Price.
Specialized Roubaix SL3 Expert 2012, Cannondale CAAD5,
Marin Mount Vision (1997), Edinburgh Country tourer, 3 cats!0 -
Heat the arm, the ally will expand faster (and more) than the steel of the pedal, use a small blow torch.
SimonCurrently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
Or plusgas.
I think this is some kind of god's way of telling you that flats are what you should ride!0 -
if an impact driver does not get it out then heat most certainly will, get a blow torch, nice blue flame, heat till cherry red then wack it with the impact driver, correct bit and hammer, might be only way0
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Or get a 6mm allen key socket and a breaker bar?0
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Its Bank Holiday, so no garage, or LBS! Fucking christians! Have had another go, but to no avail. Hopefully the garage will be open tommorrow...0
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so,
if the 6mm allen socket cap hole is goosed, there is other options
remove the assembley from the bike
remove pedal body
clamp pedal axle in vice
use crank arm as lever to unscrew
new axels to fit avaialble form superstar
but the thread in the crank could be damaged in process, but you want it out so..........
or try to hammer in a tork of imperial allen key that i slightly bigger than 6mm into the damged socket cap, once its sort of seated you should apply some radial (unscrewing) action to try and break conection whilst still driving the key home.0 -
Start with a decent 6mm socket and a ratchet, heat the arm (it won't go cherry red, its ally and would melt by then!), you can try plusgas (WD40 if you don't have any). keep squirting it on the back as you heat.
SimonCurrently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
estampida wrote:so,
if the 6mm allen socket cap hole is goosed, there is other options
remove the assembley from the bike
remove pedal body
clamp pedal axle in vice
use crank arm as lever to unscrew
new axels to fit avaialble form superstar
but the thread in the crank could be damaged in process, but you want it out so..........
or try to hammer in a tork of imperial allen key that i slightly bigger than 6mm into the damged socket cap, once its sort of seated you should apply some radial (unscrewing) action to try and break conection whilst still driving the key home.
It's 7 quid for the Superstar axle. Have tried mole grips on my axle, with and without rubber grip. Have also tried hammering 1/4 inch hex key as well as various flat head ends. My garage will be getting a visit tommorrow...0 -
Halfords sell individual 6mm allen key sockets
Use with a 3/8" breaker bar should remove it it easily with a bit of Plus-Gas
If the socket breaks or rounds take it back they have a lifetime guaranteeMountain: Orange Patriot FR, SubZero & Evo2LE.
Road: Tifosi Race Custom.
Do it all bike: Surly Disc Trucker 700c/29er0 -
RupertCommunicator wrote:Its Bank Holiday, so no garage, or LBS! ******* christians!0
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stilsons and me = problem sortedViner Salviati
Shark Aero Pro
Px Ti Custom
Cougar 531
Sab single speed
Argon 18 E-112 TT
One-one Ti 456 Evo
Ridley Cheetah TT
Orange Clockwork 2007 ltd ed
Yeti ASR 5
Cove Hummer XC Ti0 -
Problem solved! Local garage solved problem with proper tools.
Crank in vice, proper allen bit (obviously much harder than mine!) and big bar that properly holds allen keys.
Seems that garages do indeed have better quality stuff than you get in DIY shops!
Just been out on SPDs, and wasn't as frightening as I remember! Even managed a run down a DH track, although it was probably about a minute slower than without SPDs.
Am still amazed at how efficient SPDs are. Was flying up the hills. Maybe I will now have to persevere with SPDs and learn how to ride gnarly stuff in a non pussy way whilst clipped in!0 -
RupertCommunicator wrote:Seems that garages do indeed have better quality stuff than you get in DIY shops!
Who'd have thunk it?0 -
yeehaamcgee wrote:RupertCommunicator wrote:Seems that garages do indeed have better quality stuff than you get in DIY shops!
Who'd have thunk it?
I was actually slightly embarrassed at how easily he shifted the pedal! Definitely highlights how much better a vice and bar are than upturned bike and allen key in a handlebar!0 -
A bad workman always blames his tools!
If it's any consolation I have a tool box full of terrible tools.0 -
This is why you need good tools. Eventually cheap tools will wreck fasteners and cost more to repair. I use Snap-On / Blue-Point but I'm told Park Tools are pretty good too (and likely cheaper).http://www.strathspey.co.uk - Quality Binoculars at a Sensible Price.
Specialized Roubaix SL3 Expert 2012, Cannondale CAAD5,
Marin Mount Vision (1997), Edinburgh Country tourer, 3 cats!0 -
unixnerd wrote:This is why you need good tools. Eventually cheap tools will wreck fasteners and cost more to repair. I use Snap-On / Blue-Point but I'm told Park Tools are pretty good too (and likely cheaper).
No need for Snap-On / Blue-Point unless your in the trade ... I've used them both (still have a lot of it) and find the Halfords Professional Series of similar quality and a damn sight cheaper!2009 Carrera Fury0