Climbing wheels

2»

Comments

  • Ciclicasati
    Ciclicasati Posts: 740
    Latex tubes are pants anyway. They've punctured almost instantly when I've been on them.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,666
    Ciclicasati wrote:
    Latex tubes are pants anyway. They've punctured almost instantly when I've been on them.

    You're doing it wrong then!
  • Canny Jock
    Canny Jock Posts: 1,051
    Ribble have the Neutrons in stock at a good price at the moment.
  • ADIHEAD
    ADIHEAD Posts: 575
    Ciclicasati wrote:
    Latex tubes are pants anyway. They've punctured almost instantly when I've been on them.

    I've had a set of Michelin Latex tubes in for over a year and no punctures! Actually on the the 3rd set of tyres on the same tubes! Had another one that came with a second hand wheelset and again, never punctured and did over 1000m but some idiot broke the valve whilst removing pumphead. Ok it was me :oops:
  • markwb79
    markwb79 Posts: 937
    Thanks for all the help and advice. Two main ones that I am interested in the....

    C24's
    Kysrium SL (or R-SYS if I can afford them)

    As for the other tips, thanks again. Think my gearing is fine, 34-27. Weight should be good, approx 60kg. Only problem is that 95% of my training has been on the flat in North Hollland!

    Cheers
    Mark
    Scott Addict 2011
    Giant TCR 2012
  • northpole
    northpole Posts: 1,499
    Don't forget the c24's have now been replaced by the 7900 hubs - if you are mixing the flats of Holland with the mountains, an interesting alternative might be the new c35's - Merlin have them for around £900 if you don't mind splashing out a bit!

    I have the R-Sys and find them fab with Open Pave tyres - for going up hills at least!

    Peter
  • markwb79
    markwb79 Posts: 937
    The C35's might look awesome but they are out of my price range. Also think the R-SYS is a bit of a stretch!
    Scott Addict 2011
    Giant TCR 2012
  • max888
    max888 Posts: 206
    Hi all,

    On the subject of wheels, braking and Alps, I have these http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/WBPX20BLK/planet-x-handbuilt-20mm-carbon-wheelset but even lighter at approx 1000g. What's the proper way of braking on carbon rims so as not to end up with a steaming heap of expensive mush?

    Cheers, Max
    Cannondale CAAD9, CAAD5, RZ140, F5

    http://dottyjumper.posterous.com/

    http://twitter.com/#!/MaxGloger
  • dodgy
    dodgy Posts: 2,890
    Max888 wrote:
    Hi all,

    On the subject of wheels, braking and Alps, I have these http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/WBPX20BLK/planet-x-handbuilt-20mm-carbon-wheelset but even lighter at approx 1000g. What's the proper way of braking on carbon rims so as not to end up with a steaming heap of expensive mush?

    Cheers, Max

    How did you manage to get those at 1000 grams?

    Regarding braking, well if you have to slow down, you have to brake! But try not to drag the brakes, if you need to brake, then be decisive and scrub off speed quickly before negotiating anything tricky rather than dragging them on for 100s of yards.

    Punctures are rare due to heat build up, but from my mates who were descending Ventoux during the etape a while back, it does happen as they saw quite a few riders punctured on the way down.
  • max888
    max888 Posts: 206
    How did you manage to get those at 1000 grams?

    I bought the rims only and laced them to American Classic Micro 58 front hub and a FFWD (American Classic) rear hub with DT Aerolite spokes and blue nipples 8). So no dithering is the best approach.

    1AI5T8ME-PXwithcarbons013.jpg

    Since then I have changed frame to a white with red decals CAAD9
    Cannondale CAAD9, CAAD5, RZ140, F5

    http://dottyjumper.posterous.com/

    http://twitter.com/#!/MaxGloger

Categories