Research help required on drivetrains

supersonic

I am currently writing a piece for WMB on geared drivetrains, and exploring all the combos out there from single ring, close ratio set ups to triples with 10 speed 11-36. And all in between.

I'd be interested to know what you are running ie ratios at the front and rear, brands and models (inc shifters and mechs) what bike it is on, why you chose that set up and your thoughts. Does 10 speed Dynasis float your boat? Or is it SRAM that is making the bigger leaps with their set ups? Or is 9 speed (or 8 even!) just fine and dandy? In addition, what do you think to the ergonomics of the shifters and how they feel? Anything you would change?

Any other info would be useful too, especially on prices of kit and how you think performance changes.

Many thanks,

Paul

Anonymous

On my current bike (the other fully shimano one being on long term loan to a mate) I'm running Sram x-7 shifters and mech because that's what it came with.
I hate the clunky shifting action, and the thumb push for changing both up and down, BUT, I'm not going to replace them with Shimano until they're broken.

It also feels to me to be far stiffer, and requires more lever movement, to shift than the XT setup was on the other bike.
Also, the shape of the shifters is just awful. I have to compromise heavily to get the avid brakes, and avid (SRAM) shifters to play nice whilst still being set up for single finger braking. You'd think that levers and shifters from the same company would play nice, huh?

Gearing wise, both of them are on 2x9. Again, I already had 2x9 before 10 speed made it's mainstream debut. I'm not in any real rush to switch to 10 speed, but I'm not vehemently opposed either. I will however, let the early adopters find out if there's any mud clogging issues before I splunk my cash.
Front rings are 26 and 36, rear are 11-32.
Front crankset is Shimano Saint, there were some truly godawful Truvativ (SRAM again) something or other on there when I bought the bike, which lasted all of 3 rides or so before developing play issues. Same thing happened on my riding mate's Norco, and several other forum users seem to have suffered the same - non driveside crank perpetually loosening itself.
I might still have one of the arms in the garage if you want specifics on what model. Frankly, I just refer to it as "the SRAM crap", since nothing I've ever bought from SRAM has ever been even close to satisfactory, no matter how much time I give it to get over initial misgivings, it just keeps getting more and more annoying.
(Whereas I also have a bike with an old Sachs mech, which was brilliant. SRAM reeks of stupid design choices/changes, and excessive cost savings)

Anything else you'd like to know?


Oh yeah. SRAM stuff on a bike wouldn't mean I wouldn't buy the bike since the rolling chassis is far more important, and chances are I'll swap it out eventually anyway. But if a similar bike were available with Shimano, I'd opt for that instead. Even if it was marginally more expensive.

supersonic

Superb, many thanks! 9-32?

Anonymous

Doh, 11-32, brain misfire thinking 9 speed!
(iz fixed now, yez)

ride_whenever

I've got a fair few setups, but the eventual plan is to run the c456 as 2*10 on SRAM (x0 or maybe xx), a wider ratio double with a fairly tight cassette (roadie style) will sort me for most of my riding with a bit less overlap than the current triple and TBH sounds like a much better setup than the shimano 10spd stuff, i really don't understand why they thought it was a good idea.

My commuting/coaching mtb is 1*9 (36 ring, 11-32 block, xt, E.13 guide) mainly for complete reliability, I cannot really afford to have this go wrong ever. 36-32 will get me up anything in the dry. The eventual plan with this is to run with an 11spd alfine (tensioned by chainguide) for lower maintenance and because I think my non-replacable hanger might be on it's way out (bent back too many times)

I've also got a couple of single-speeds. Mainly for low weight and reliability.

I currently have the 1*9 xt setup and a 3*9 x-0 setup. I love the adjustability of the x0 shifters and prefer the ergonomics although sometimes miss the dual action shifting and would certainly miss it when coaching. X0 also seems much more tolerant of dirt (although it probably gets ridden less!)

I probably could get by with 1*10 if i used the new 36 big sprocket on the rear and a 32 ring on my main mtb but I'm going to use 26-39 most likely

ride_whenever

The one thing that does bug me about sram is than you can't shift down as quickly, on the xt you can go down to the lowest gear pretty fast, the bigger throw on the sram means it's an extra swing on the lever for me.

However I'm deeply deeply attracted to the shiney 9spd x-0 stuff.

unixnerd

8 speed Shimano XT from 1997! But it works so crisply and reliably I'm very happy with it. 11-28 rear, 42-32-22 front. My previous bike was new in 2008 and had much lower level Shimano shifters that were horrid and plasticy in comparison, cheap ones. They needed a lot more effort to shift gear.

I love the 42x11 top gear for road sections, my last bike was way under geared on the road. Off road I seldom leave the big ring except for the steepest bits. I ride a lot and I'm pretty fit so a decent high gear is important for road and downhill bits.

If I ever had to change the front granny ring I'd put a 24 on. But I don't use it much.

I'd be interested to try today's XT and see how it compares to my vintage setup! For me having reliable shifters with a good feel is more important than going to a new 10 speed system. If I was running 8 speed with 11-32 or something the gaps in ratios might be a problem but 11-28 is fine off road.

Andy B

Bike 1, 1993 KHS montana Pro, original spec XT M73x series parts (mech's & shifters), 7 speed cassette 12/28t & Ritchey 24/34/44t chainrings with a KMC 8 speed chain

I chose these components as they were the original spec, or as close to it as I could get & I fancied a build that was in keeping with that frame

The 7 speed drivetrain works well and does give a good spread of ratios, but does miss out on the low end of the gearing for those monster climbs.

You do still get mud issues with a 7speed set up, despite what a lot of riders claim, as for shifting performance, it's smooth unless coated in mud

Bike 2 1998 Orange Clockwork fitted with 9 speed Sram X9 shifters and rear mech, XT front mech & 11/32t cassette, KMC chain and Middleburn slick shift hard coat 22/32/44t chainrings.

Component choice was basically what I had lying about in the Man Cave

I am a big fan of the positive shifting action you get with the X9 set up, the gearing gives a good spread of ratios with a nice low end for climbing. I generally stick in the middle ring and only use the granny and outer when really needed.

Bike 3, 2007 Orange 5 Pro. Sram 9spd X9 shifters & rear mech, XT 11/32t cassette & front mech, RaceFace 22/32/44t chainrings, KMC chain

Parts chosen as they were what came on the bike (Chainset & F.mech) or because I preferred the ratios & shifting of the set up to the Shimano XT that the bike originally came with

Bike 4, 2010 Cube AMS Pro R1, Sram 9spd X0 rear mech, X9 shifters, XT 11/32t cassette, XT 22/32/44t chainset, KMC chain, all standard kit on this bike, as above for reasons why I chose this kit.

Bike 5 when it arrives will be built up with a 1x9 set up using a 34t chainring (probably) and a 11/34t cassette. X9 mech & shifter, KMC chain

Why? because I feel that as I do spend a lot of time in the middle ring I believe that I can get away with the ratios and not lose out much at all. I would gain in weight loss & simplicity by not having a front mech & shifter

Oh & I have most of the parts already, so it'll be cheaper than going 1x10spd

Koiler

edit - bike is a Kona Coiler. im not one to pigeon hole riding styles, but i'd say setup for am/ fr type stuff. even though there are no mountains round these parts

mine is almost full SLX, i run a double ring at the front (22/36) and an 11-28 cassette at the back. shifters are also SLX.

the SLX stuff is a definite improvement on the deore and LX bits that came on the bike, ok, it may not be too much of an 'upgrade' but i hated how floppy the rear mech was over rough ground, so opted for an SLX as it has a stiffer spring. while this does help to keep the chain tighter, the stiffer spring is also noticeable when changing to a smaller gear at the back. there's a lot more resistance in the lever.

the extra resistance isn't a problem on its own, but i find with nearly all shifters i've tried (shimano and SRAM) thats is almost impossible for me to get them positioned in a way that makes it easy to change both up and down. its always a compromise. if they're positioned so that i'm able to change up the cassette without really twisting my wrist then i find the relese lever for changing back up is waaay too close to the grips. if the shifter is positioned so it feels perfect for changing to a harder gear at the back, the the lever for going up the cassette is almost unreachable. i dont like this compromise.

so as far as shifter ergonomics go, i think there is room for some innovation. If you think of how many people there are in the world that ride bikes, theres no way that a single design is going to suit every single one of us. having a shorter throw on the 'easier' lever would help a lot (rear shifter) i realise that its all to do with cable pull etc, but that, for me, would solve the problem. as would swappable levers in a range of lengths/ angles.

one of things i really like about the SLX shifters is the dual release, i didn't think i'd really get on with it having used SRAM shifters, i didn't like having to use my thumb for shifting up and down, but after using the SLX for a while, i like being able to shift up with my thumb as it means i can always keep a finger on the brake and have a better grip on the bars

with regards to 10 speed, the only think i like about the idea of 10 speed, is running 1x10 and having an 11-36 cassette. for double and triple rings, it just doesn't seem worth it. on a single front ring, it does make sense, but only if using a wide range cassette. i would seriously consider changing my 22/36 - 11/28 setup for a single ring 34t with 11-36 cassette.

an_original_name

i'm currently running sram X9 rear mech and shifter on a 1x9 set up with a 32t chainring and 11-34 cassette. that gearing can get me up just about anything if I put my back into it, and because I prefer to spin pretty quickly when pedaling on the downs the only time I have ever ran out of gears is the descent down Latrig in the lakes, which is steep enough not to need to pedal too much anyway!

sram for me has been super reliable. I think I fitted my x9 stuff about a year ago, and other than a quick gear cable change about 2 months ago I haven't needed to touch it. The thing i like most about it is that the shifting feels very mechanical, you always know when its shifted.

my only complaint is that the shifter doesn't sit too well with my formula the one brakes, meaning i have to compromise the shifter position slightly to get my brake lever where i want it.

Anonymous

Hmm, not tried the slx shifters, but my XTs had a very short throw for shifting up, almost a hair trigger action.
Ive also never considered using the front brake whilst changing up, I can't fathom why or when that would be useful.

Anyway, sorry to derail the thread... Continue!

Koiler

i didn't mean that i use the brake and change gear at the same time, just that its reassuring to always have the brake covered and more nice to be able to change without having to move my hand around on the grip

fastandfuriousxc

Shimano xt 9 speed mech and shifter, for the availability, cheaper replacements than 10 speed and already had them when building the new bike. 11-32 cassette. 28t/44t double set up for racing and general riding, put on a standard 22/32/44 combo for longer endurance races (12h+) again with xt front shifter (3 speed). The bike is a RAM xc.three, 4 inch full suss xc race bike with light build, used for most rides on all terrain apart from DH/FR.

Other bike is a teocali with stronger build for the DH stuff (6inch travel), Have a 22t/36t double and bash set up on the front, for extra clearance and a raised height to help protect against rock strikes. 9 speed xt rear mech, LX front and LX shifters. 11-32t cassette.

Hope this helps

bennett_346

Currently running 9 speed 11-34 cassette, with double and bash setup 24-36.

SRAM X5 shifters front and rear with X9 rear mech and SLX front mech. Not interested in 10speed just yet but im sure there'll be no avoiding it sometime in the near future.

As for the ergonomics of shifters i find sram ones work well with avid brakes, though i have tried no others.

warpcow

My current setups are singlespeed, 1x9 and 2x10.

The singlespeed is doing commuting duties just now so has 40-13, but I ran it for about 6yrs at 34-16 in the forests. It was great fun and an excellent winter bike. Only having one gear teaches you a lot about shifting weight around to maintain grip.

The 1x9 is running a 34t chainring and SRAM 11-34 out back. It's an Inbred with 120mm Rebas, so I guess what you could call a fairly standard trail bike. The shifter/gear are SRAM X9 with an e.13 XCX guide. When I come to change cassette I'll go with an 11-32, as I've never used the 34t. I chose SRAM shifters because they were cheap at the time. I'd been riding a singlespeed exclusively for several years, so had very little loyalty to SRAM or Shimano when coming back to gears. I instantly loved that all shifting is done with the thumb; it feels far more intuitive and comfortable to me. Also, that there is a very distinct feel when it shifts, which is the opposite of my experience with Shimano (see below). Fitting and setting them up is a piece of cake. Maybe I was just lucky and got it right first time, but there's been no faff with my SRAM gears in the ~2yrs I've had them. The e.13 guide is excellent.

My 2x10 is relatively new (about 2months). It's an SC Heckler with coil DHX 5.0 and Pikes, so a fair bit heavier than the Inbred. It has 36-24 up front and 11-36 at the back, partly because it seemed a better idea with it being heavier. It's all Shimano SLX (one of those cheap German deals) apart from the front mech, which is old 9-spd XT but works fine with the Dynasys stuff. I'm not entirely convinced I need a double yet. The wider ranged cassette means I've only used the granny once so far. I use the shifters as if they were SRAM; shifting only with my thumbs. I find that the shifters aren't quite as comfortable due to the lever primarily being designed for finger shifting, with the dual-release seeming like an after-thought. Functionally they're ok, but very indistinct compared to the SRAM shifter; I occasionally have to look down to see if I have actually changed gear. They also interfere with my Formula brake levers. I guess I'm still in the stage where cables are stretching, etc, but they have required a lot more tweaking than my SRAM gears though this could also be down to the Heckler having split outers, as all my rides so far have been very wet and muddy.

Having had issues with both SRAM (wearing one out every 3 months) and Shimano chains (snaptastic!), I use Connex now and would never go back (ok, the 10-spd still has the original SLX chain until it dies). Tbh, the only 'real' problem I have nowadays is making sure I'm carrying the right sized powerlink since I've got 8- (on the SS), 9- and 10-spd chains in service. I won't upgrade the 1x9 to 1x10 until everything is well and truly in need of replacing.

cat_with_no_tail

On the Edison, I run:
9sp 11-34 PG970 cassette
X-9 Shifters & Mechs
SLX 24-36-bash with Stinger tensioner

These are all parts I chose for the bike, rather than bits that came with it.
I personally prefer the feel of SRAM shifters and mechs over Shimano. I've run various combinations of X7, X9 and X0 on my last 3 bikes. I find the mechs are better sprung and dont flap about as much as shimano, and I prefer the shifting system, just feels better for me. That's not to say I don't like the Shimano stuff, I've had SLX, and XT on previous bikes and it was fine, just not as good as SRAM.

On my current bike, the bars are rather busy, with 2 brakes, 2 shifters, a lever for the Dropper and a button for the travel adjust. This meant I had to choose my layout very carefully, it took a few attempts, but it's now where it needs to be.

I may go 2x10-speed at some point, I have no real problems with the idea of it, especially as I'm already running a double chainset. If/when I do it'll be because my current stuff has worn out and it looks like the 10sp stuff is reliable. In which case, It'll probably be X-0 all round.

rob.m

I've just put a Scandal 29er together using new and second hand parts, I've chosen to go 1 x 10 and have a Shimano XT crank (9 speed) with 32 tooth chainring which I bought second hand. Out back I've got a 10 speed XT rear mech and shifter with 11-36 SLX cassette and SLX chain all brand new. I feel though that I may need to swap the chainring to a 34 tooth or bigger, time will tell.
I also have an E Thirteen XCX chain guide to keep the chain in place.

Anonymous

2x9 set up with 22/32 on the front and 11-34 on the rear. SRAM 950 cassette, Shimano Deore steel middle ring at the front and the granny ring is whatever came with the Firex crankset. Deore shifters that came with the bike.

Deore front mech, SLX Shadow rear mech.

Changed to 11-34 from 11-32 on the rear to provide more range for climbs in the middle ring. Result is I spend even less time in the granny. Ditched the big ring and replaced with a bash as I never used it. With a bit more fitness I could probably go 1x9.

Prefer 9 speed mainly as the kit is cheaper and more standard. Most people have 9 speed, so can share power links when chains snap.

SRAM chain. Just what the bike came with and I've stuck to using them, and like the powerlinks.

Deore shifter is nothing amazing, but works. I was grumbling a bit about their shifting ability, but I've realised that was purely because of the gear cable. Replaced with SP41 cable inner and outers, and they shift great. Ergonomically, the shifters are okay. They're two-way shifters so can shift up and down just with the thumbs nicely. Other than that they feel a bit plastic and cheap, but they do the job.

The Northern Monkey

11-34 with double chainring, 22-34.

Its ok.

There doesn't seem to be a happy medium between climbing and normal trail speed... I always find myself changing up or down in the mid range to keep speed and cadence up which is a massive pita sometimes, especially when the trail is always changing.

But that might be something to do with my current setup... I don't know.

However, i'd probably struggle on climbs without the 34t cog, as i've got weak knees and they can't take the strain sometimes. The 34t really helps.

Interested in is 2x10 setup as it might solve my problem with the mid range. Not done much research on it though as I can't afford a new drivetrain at the moment.

MattJWL

On FS all-day setup I'm running 22-34-44 at the front, and 11-32 at the back. I prefer 46T or 48T at the front as I regularly spin out on fire roads with 44T, but I got a really good replacement 44T ring (Crank Bros Cobalt) for next to no money last time I wore one out. Generally, I also find that 22T is a little low; having tried 26T it's too high for me, so next time round it'll be 24T. This (funnily enough) is pretty close to the 24-34-46 x 12-28 I used to run back in 7 speed days on the Fisher.

In terms of models etc, I'm running XTR dual control shifters and XT mechs (shifters always make bigger difference than the mechs). Stunningly slick & reliable shifts (improved by the Crank Bros chainring I might add), I can't think how the shifting could be improved. SRAM PG990 cassette out back & XTR/Dura-Ace 7701 chain. Running a good chain makes a difference too. XT chain was OK, SRAM 951 chain was awful.

In terms of matching this to riding style etc., previously I lived in the Chilterns, now I live in the Alps. Good mix of a little tarmac (usually transit only) then 50-50 double track / singletrack both of which vary from pretty easy to brown-trouser inducing.
HTH
M

Anonymous

Just a thought, would it be useful for Sonic for us to list where we typically ride? I suspect that riders in flatter areas would probably run higher ratios on average.

warpcow

Yeah, I realised I said a whole lot but nothing about where I ride

Both my FS and HT are used for the same trails. It's very flat here (highest point in the county is about 125m) in general, but lots of short, steep, technical ups. Trails are very rocky, and technical, so average speeds tend to be low (6-10kph), hence the lower range of gearing. I never spin out with a 36t chainring, and have never really run out of gears that I would need to get off and push (the terrain and my skill are the limiting factors there). Think of it kind of like a flat Canadian north-shore.

Anonymous

Well, I ride in the mountains, which consist of very long, exceptionally steep climbs, and even on the downhills I rarely run out of gears since gravity alone will more often than not result in truly eye watering speed, which needs to be kept in check because of the terrain.
I also ride on the country roads for fitness, or just for a bit of a spin, and although I can easily run out of gears then, it doesn't bother me since that's now what my bike is for.
There's also some ludicrously steep granny ring climbs on some roads that i ride here.
At trail centres, the lack of high gears doesn't bother me much, since I treat themke roller coasters, steady on the ups, then use the gears to accelerate until i spin out on the downs, then enjoy the ride and stay off the brakes!.

Anonymous

I know the South East doesn't seem mountainous, but I ride mostly Surrey Hills which involves a fair bit of climbing, and most other places I ride I'm usually into anything with a bit of descent, preferably a little steep, so will have to climb. Not into long flat rides on my full sus so big ring is redundant.

That said if/when I build my hard tail, it'll probably be used more on longer flat rides so I'll likely go with different ratios for that.

Raymondavalon

On the Felt All Mountain I'm running:
OE type Truative FireEx 3x9 chainring setup / external BB
Shimano front derailleur, as per factory fitted.
SRAM. X9 rear mech
X7 shifters
So far it's been flawless and I am on my second chain and rear cassette

I would like to move to a double chainring om the AM, but I'll wait until the drivetrain is worn before making that changeover, however the 3x9 setup is quite handy for the longer trails where I may get to use the outer chainring

The new 456 is 95% complete, and I have opted for a 2x10 Setup comprising of:

FSA Gravity MegaExco 36/24 chainrings external BB
Blackspire Dewlie C4 chainguide / bash setup
Shimano front derailleur
SRAM X9 rear mech 10 speed
SRAM PG1070 10 speed cassette 12-36T
SRAM X9 10sp shifters

This is my "trail centre" bike, as I barely used the outer chainring at Cannock/Swinley etc. I decided to try the "simplicity"[?] of a dual ring configuration. I'm confident the current rations should work and if not, it's a cassette change at the very most..

I've stuck with SRAM as this bike has been built on a piecemeal basis and a lot of the parts were cherry picked on availability and price

My 3rd bike which is a rigid hardtail is full Deore equipped and I find the Shimano drivetrain very smooth and predictable, although it's mainly used for commuting, so the 3x9 is ideal

As for SRAM vs. Shimano, I've run both and although they have their brand traits, I find them both to be very good and hard wearing. I do prefer the clunkier shifting of the SRAM kit, as it "tells me I've changed" gear.

cooldad

Kona Four Deluxe. Came with Shimano Deore shifters, Deore front mech, XT Shadow rear, FSA crankset with 22/32/44 and 11/32 cassette. Everything worked fine, except the shifters are nothing to write home about.
Previously converted rubbish spec on V braked Marin hardtail to Avid V's so had to replace the combined brake/shifters to separate ones and stuck on some old STX RC's which were excellent, short throw and streets ahead of the Deores.

Have just fitted a Deore crankset, 22/32/44 and a Sram 11/34 cassette which is much better for me as I am not very fit, and getting on a bit, so gives me a bit extra in middle ring before needing granny, which I probably spend too much time in anyway.
On a whim I bought a Kona bash I saw on Ebay and replaced the big ring, as I hardly ever use it, so bike looks more serious even if the rider isn't.

Longtime Shimano fan (still have 3/6 Mountain Exage with Biopace and thumbies running sweetly on another bike, which must be well over 25 years old) so no great desire to try Sram.

Overall impression of change - super stiff cranks, everything changes smoothly. Only upgrade I still want is better shifters, so on the lookout for a decent set of XT's. Front mech is low spec, but I've never found they make much difference anyway.

Anonymous

Ah, STX-RCs, happy days. Now there was a banging groupset.

Is it just me, or does it seem like all the really long-term riders have Shimano stuff? I don't think I've ever heard anyone say they've had the same SRAM setup for aeons, wheres Shimano XT is seen on a lot of vintage bikes, still going strong.

cooldad

To add ride the same places as Deadkenny, fairly long uphills, with shortish but fairly steep and rough downhills. Or at least that's how it feels.
Always seems a bugger that the fun downhills seem so short in comparison to the slog to get up in the first place.

cooldad

yeehaamcgee wrote:

Ah, STX-RCs, happy days. Now there was a banging groupset.

Is it just me, or does it seem like all the really long-term riders have Shimano stuff? I don't think I've ever heard anyone say they've had the same SRAM setup for aeons, wheres Shimano XT is seen on a lot of vintage bikes, still going strong.

Probably just because it's been around for longer, and the mid range stuff seems to be better value, even the cheap Shimano stuff works well. Having had Shimano 6, 7, 8 and 9 speed stuff, I've only ever had one mech (XT) break on me, and even that was fixed with bits of another one I was given.
Hell I even still have CRT TV, so probably not the best person to talk about cutting edge technology.

andyrm

On the Edison I run 2x9 with the following:

X9 Gripshift - shattered scaphoid a few years back makes clicky shifters hard work
X0 rear mech
X9 front mech
Middleburn 24/36 rings and PG990 cassette with the new Clarks self lube chain in white.

Think I have had to touch the indexing once in almost 2 years, it's ridiculously reliable and low maintenance.

bike-a-swan

I ride in the north downs with the odd trip away to wherever, and i ride the following-

-a singlespeed 32:16 for when it's wet and muddy. It's starting some summer hibernation now, although I've been thinking of 1x9/10ing it for the dry months.

-Old 44/32/22 to 11-32, a mix of xt, slx and lx, on the rock lobster. I've gone back and forth with a 34 and found I don't need one.

-My new 456c has slx for most things bar an old lx front mech. Running the 3x10 dyna sys with the 36 cassette.

-if you're interested, my commuter is running an alfine 11, I probably wouldn't put it on a mtb, it does make the back end heavy!

My thoughts
- 3x9 vs. 3x10: I can't tell a great deal of difference. I got the 3x10 because that seems to be the way things are going. I have no problem with 3x9!. I do seem to spend marginally longer in the middle on climbs, and perhaps more importantly the 42t big ring feels more useable.

- SRAM/Shimano: I don't like the feel of SRAM kit, probably to the extent of it affecting my choice of bike.

- 2/3 chainrings: As far as I can tell, 3 is more suited for me. I seem to spend most of my time in the middle and only switch to 1 or 3 for steep uphills/ road stuff. I think on a double I may find myself changing between them quite a bit, although some of the guys I ride with have and like them., so I may have to try a bit more. For something like cwmcarn I could see 2 being spot on- mostly up them mostly dwn.

-Rankings: I think slx is a good balance on value/performance etc. I also think it;s the best looking shimano groupset at the moment. If I could afford it I would go higher!)

Hope that helps