Upgrades... in which order?
Rushmore
Posts: 674
Hi..
What would you good people recomend upgrading first on my bike?? What would you recommend upgrading to and what next..
My bike + spec here = http://www.evanscycles.com/products/com ... 9#features
What would you good people recomend upgrading first on my bike?? What would you recommend upgrading to and what next..
My bike + spec here = http://www.evanscycles.com/products/com ... 9#features
Always remember.... Wherever you go, there you are.
Ghost AMR 7500 2012
De Rosa R838
Ghost AMR 7500 2012
De Rosa R838
0
Comments
-
I can never understand buying a bike and wanting to upgrade it straight away. Why buy it in the first place?I don't do smileys.
There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda
London Calling on Facebook
Parktools0 -
Wheels.
Fork.
Then all the drivetrain bits as they wear.Trail fun - Transition Bandit
Road - Wilier Izoard Centaur/Cube Agree C62 Disc
Allround - Cotic Solaris0 -
Tyres are usually the first thing to change. You may be the best rider on the best bike but that doesn't mean anything if your tyres are no good.0
-
Ride the bike a little first, then ride some more and finally do a little riding. Then once you've rode it some more upgrade the contact points you aren't comfortable with.
After that I recommend a intense course of riding the bike to find out what else you don't like. Then when parts wear out from all this riding replace those.
0 -
Whatever breaks/wears out first.
If you just want to spend some cash then I'd go for wheels & tyres, chainset, forks depending on how fat the wedge in your pocket is...XC: Giant Anthem X
Fun: Yeti SB66
Road: Litespeed C1, Cannondale Supersix Evo, Cervelo R5
Trainer: Bianchi via Nirone
Hack: GT hardtail with Schwalbe City Jets0 -
cooldad wrote:I can never understand buying a bike and wanting to upgrade it straight away. Why buy it in the first place?
I don't want to upgrade it... i'm happy with the way it is for now
It's just intresting to know what people recommend when I come to cross that bridge 8)Always remember.... Wherever you go, there you are.
Ghost AMR 7500 2012
De Rosa R8380 -
other than tyres/contact points there isn't much point in upgrading.0
-
don't change a thing, just get out and ride it
after a year or two your confidence and skills will improve and by then you'll have a better idea of what type of riding you like doing, you can then start thinking about the next set of kit but that's not today's worry - have fun, it's gonna be a long summer 8)
[EDIT]
looking at the spec a bit more, the tyres are suited for summer riding (dryer conditions) so for the moment experiment with the tyre pressures to get the best grip and roll blend. The saddle looks like a charge spoon which are popular so you may well be ok with this"I get paid to make other people suffer on my wheel, how good is that"
--Jens Voight0 -
if you are happy with it then I would vote to leave it.
I am still riding my £300 bike from 4 years ago, although only the frame and bars are original.
I took the upgrade as things wear and/or need changing approach.
The stem was changes because i needed a lower rise one, I upgraded the brakes because the originals constant need for felting annoyed me.
after that all my upgrades were on an as needed basis. My forkes failed (suntors) so i bought toras. My drivetrain wore out so i bought a deore groupset to replace it.
My most recent upgrade was a new wheelset after my freehub gave up.Giant TCR advanced 2 (Summer/race)
Merlin single malt fixie (Commuter/winter/training)
Trek superfly 7 (Summer XC)
Giant Yukon singlespeed conversion (winter MTB/Ice/snow)
Carrera virtuoso - RIP0 -
upgrade the rider....by riding.
no point having a 2 grand bike and 50 pence legs!
then when you have upgraded the rider suitably...tyres...
then after continuing to upgrade the rider...
fork. don't go daft... a tora or equivalent will be more than adequate.....
then as drivetrain wears, potentially upgrade the rear mech/cassette/chain/shifter to SLX. I wouldn't bother going further up the than SLX....
then stop upgrading....put any cash you want to spend in a big jar, and save it towards the next bike.Whenever I see an adult on a bicycle, I believe in the future of the human race.
H.G. Wells.0 -
Id be thinking about changing the forks personally. I had a set of suntour XCR on my first bike. they siezed solid first time out on a blue route0
-
1. beard
2. balls
3. shave legs
In that order.0 -
bluechair84 wrote:1. beard
2. balls
3. shave legs
In that order.
Anwers:
1. When Puberty kicks in, i'll try.
2. 3 is enough for any man!
3. see question 1
Always remember.... Wherever you go, there you are.
Ghost AMR 7500 2012
De Rosa R8380 -
I'd say:
Tyres
Forks
Brakes
Gearing - to get to 27+ gears
Wheels
Other than that, the bike IS entry level and you'd best be biting your lip, spending £200-300 more and getting a bike that requires less short/long term upgrades0 -
Contact points... Any bike I have gets the same grips and saddle, I just like the familiarity. Bars and stem, depending on what's fitted and how well chosen it is. Pedals, almost certainly, nothing comes with good flats on. And tyres, so much a matter of taste so if you know what you like there's a pretty good chance your new bike won't have that.
Oh and a good quality quick release seatclamp!
Otherwise, get a big dog and train it to bite you every time you think about needlessly upgrading a part.Uncompromising extremist0 -
Contact points... Any bike I have gets the same grips and saddle, I just like the familiarity. Bars and stem, depending on what's fitted and how well chosen it is. Pedals, almost certainly, nothing comes with good flats on. And tyres, so much a matter of taste so if you know what you like there's a pretty good chance your new bike won't have that.
Oh and a good quality quick release seatclamp!
Otherwise, get a big dog and train it to bite you every time you think about needlessly upgrading a part.Uncompromising extremist0 -
Northwind wrote:Contact points... Any bike I have gets the same grips and saddle, I just like the familiarity. Bars and stem, depending on what's fitted and how well chosen it is. Pedals, almost certainly, nothing comes with good flats on. And tyres, so much a matter of taste so if you know what you like there's a pretty good chance your new bike won't have that.
Oh and a good quality quick release seatclamp!
Otherwise, get a big dog and train it to bite you every time you think about needlessly upgrading a part.
Actually thats a good point. One of the best upgrades Ive ever done was to buy lizard skin grips. Completely changed the feel of the bike for £200 -
kool..
so pedals then!!
I've basically cut the crap out of my legs with the spikey little buggers I have at the mo.. Also they grippy spikes only go half way across the pedal on one side so i keep having to spin the pedals round otherwise my foot hangs off the side..
can anyone recommend some nice light flats?Always remember.... Wherever you go, there you are.
Ghost AMR 7500 2012
De Rosa R8380 -
Dont bother upgrading, save the money and hassle and just get a decent bike once you've practice some on this or broken it.0
-
upgrade as things break.
so probally
pedals
tyres
cassette
chain
crankset
wheels
brakes
fork
..........get the idea
legs
arms
back
balls
ar**
time to pay the doctor a visit again....London2Brighton Challange 100k!
http://www.justgiving.com/broxbourne-runners0 -
As above, I don't upgrade something unless I break it.
Although pedals, seat and tyres make sense.
Pedals: I love my Superstar CNC Nano Tech flats, such a large surface area that you'll never lose your footing with the right shoes on.
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/index.ph ... 74b05211630 -
Im currently lusting after a set of Crank brothers 50/50 pedals. Look uber cool
http://www.google.co.uk/images?hl=en&q= ... a=N&tab=wi0 -
-
PaulBox wrote:Northwind wrote:Oh and a good quality quick release seatclamp!
Practically nothing comes with a good QR seat clamp. The difference between an adequate cheapy and a good one is the difference between having it stuck solid when it's full of mud, and not, in my experience...Uncompromising extremist0 -
Northwind wrote:PaulBox wrote:Northwind wrote:Oh and a good quality quick release seatclamp!
Practically nothing comes with a good QR seat clamp. The difference between an adequate cheapy and a good one is the difference between having it stuck solid when it's full of mud, and not, in my experience...
I must admit that I've never had an issue with one, Anthem doesn't even have one...XC: Giant Anthem X
Fun: Yeti SB66
Road: Litespeed C1, Cannondale Supersix Evo, Cervelo R5
Trainer: Bianchi via Nirone
Hack: GT hardtail with Schwalbe City Jets0 -
If you're not a seatpost dropper it's not an issue obviously but if you're making use of a QR to adjust your post, it makes all the difference. Hope and Chromag are good. The Ragley one's OK. If I knew who made the one that came with my old Scandal frame I'd recommend that, it was ace. Salsa are good as long as they stay clean.Uncompromising extremist0
-
don't get a qr, if the frame will take it get a drop post! Sooooooo much better.0
-
Can't disagree, other than that it's probably not the ideal recommendation for someone that's spent £400 on the whole bike.Uncompromising extremist0