25s are smoother on poor road surfaces. Probably little difference in rolling performance. Just make sure there is enough clearance for them. If you have 4mm then no problem.
I switched from 25's to 23's and noticed no difference whatsoever. Obviously theres a little more road contact the larger the tyre,but just make sure you have decent tyres.
I've gone the other way and switched from 23mm to 25mm summer and winter. More comfort and the larger tyre runs better over rough surfaces. Buy a decent folding tyre and there will be negligible weight penalty.
For non-competitive riding 25mm or even 28mm (same tyre) will be faster than 23mm.
The difference in speed will be practically undetectable but at 5-10 PSI less, they will be more comfortable.
Difficult to say mate as my summer bike is carbon and my winter bike is aluminium.
I just feel safer with 25's on the censored roads and I run my winter tyres about 10 psi sofetr than my summer. 110 psi on my summer bike and 95 - 100 on my winter.
I have been running on 23s this winter and i just switched to a 25 on the front this week. I don't know about speed yet but it definitely feels safer on the roads.
2 myths: narrow tyres are quicker and higher pressures reduce rolling resistance.
The determinant factor is often the road surface and given the state of our rough roads, a narrow hard tyre is just more uncomfortable and will puncture more easily. Air resitance has negligible influence and anything above 110psi is generally pointless.
Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
I started with 23mm on my winter bike and I'm now running 28's, very little difference in performance but a big increase in comfort. If you got the clearance then give it a go. The main thing is quality, a good 25mm tyre will be faster than a cheap and nasty 23mm.
For non-competitive riding 25mm or even 28mm (same tyre) will be faster than 23mm
So do 23mm tyres become become magically faster when you're racing?
Choice of tyres depends on aplication.
23mm is a pro racing standard because it makes the best compromise between rolling, weight and air drag.
A typical bloke riding for fitness on some bad UK roads at 15-18mph doesn't have to worry about the weight or air resistance and most certainly will be faster comfier and safer on wider rubber thanks to reduced rolling resistance, lower pressure and larger footprint.
I think it's time that we abandon the oversimplified view of rolling resistance as a simple function of a contact patch area (narrower and harder is better :roll: ) and forget about the "that's what the pros use" nonsense and consider improved rolling of wider rubber as a fact, not speculation or theory.
It's the pressure that makes the difference, not the tyre width.
I'm afraid you've just failed tyres 101 because it is the shape of the tyre carcass that does make all the difference. There's been plenty of published research on the subject & suggest you start on the Conti tyres website..
Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
It's the pressure that makes the difference, not the tyre width.
I'm afraid you've just failed tyres 101 because it is the shape of the tyre carcass that does make all the difference. There's been plenty of published research on the subject & suggest you start on the Conti tyres website..
Really? to comfort?
Links please.
Also - forgive my scepticism from research published by a tyre manufacturer. Presumably it's in their interest to have tyre with differentation?
Can't find the original article - it was well publicised at the time but the conclusion was the biggest factor on rolling resistance was hysteresis - simplicitly: tyre deformation. Fatter tyres deform less for the same pressure and therefore lose less energy. Air resistance has negligible impact. The shape of a tyre patch also has a bearing on grip - a wider tyre has a broader contact patch and therefore more resistant to shear forces i.e. improved grip too. Finally bigger air pocket also improves comfort and reduces incidence of impact punctures.
Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
Can't find the original article - it was well publicised at the time but the conclusion was the biggest factor on rolling resistance was hysteresis - simplicitly: tyre deformation. Fatter tyres deform less for the same pressure and therefore lose less energy. Air resistance has negligible impact. The shape of a tyre patch also has a bearing on grip - a wider tyre has a broader contact patch and therefore more resistant to shear forces i.e. improved grip too. Finally bigger air pocket also improves comfort and reduces incidence of impact punctures.
I'd suggest that the performance difference between 25mm and 23mm is minimal, and the biggest impact on comfort, is the pressure which you run it at, which probably varies a lot more than the marginal gains or losses from a 25mm to a 23mm.
If we're going to go down the physics route, I'd imagine that the marginal gain from having a 25mm is probably negated by a) more air resistance and b) more mass to rotate.
Even on UK roads there's no reason to ride less than 6bar, unless you're doing some Roubaix stuff, and that's perfect for a 23mm tyre.
Bicycling Science (generally regarded as the best book ever written about bicycle physics) also confirms that tyres up to about 32c have lower rolling resistance, but obviously much more weight and aerodynamic drag. Aerodynamics is obviously less important the slower you're going.
Like many other discussions about rolling resistance, rotating weight etc, this one is also pointless, as some people are simply not able to accept and understand arguments based on science, test results and other people's experience.
The evidence is there. All it takes is some brain power and ability to think independently, regardless of what B.S. one is fed with by magazines, manufacturers, forums and the club mates.
I've got the same brand of tyre (Michelin Krylion) in both widths.
Unfortunately because of the tight clearances on my Cannondale CAAD 8 frame, I can't run 25mm tyres with Crud Roadracer mudguards so I have to use 23mm during the Winter months.
On crappy road surfaces the 23mm tyres give some discomfort after 3 hours or so, whereas back in the summer rides of 60 or 70 miles were fine.
Have my first outing on the road tomorrow and it looks like it's going to be wet.
My bike has Continental Grand Prix (24mm) tyres which currently have 120psi (as that's what's written as recommended on the tyre). I'm a road virgin (MTBer)
I know there are different versions.... so it's this one.. http://road.cc/content/review/6226-cont ... 0x24c-tyre
Looks like I need to remove a little bit of air. What pressure range do these tyres have and what would be recommended?
I'm sure I'll work it out over time (and will take it easy tomorrow)... but a ballpark psi figure would be good.
@ Old Tuggo: errr..... no. This is still 'Road Beginners' isn't it? Whilst lots of posters like to tell us of their marvelous speeds, the records of Sportives, as quoted by the wise NapD, tell a different tale
As far as tyre wall recommendations, they are about the manufacturer covering their [email protected] in case of claims rather than offering advice to neophyte pedallers. Depending on your weight, about 100 should be fine for most. More in the back, less in the front. Try it out, adjust to suit.
Posts
Slightly bigger contact patch for censored roads and more stable.......so they say!
Argon18 E114
Specialized Langster Single Speed
Scott Spark Expert 29'er
GT Avalanche
http://www.glasgowgreencycleclub.co.uk
The difference in speed will be practically undetectable but at 5-10 PSI less, they will be more comfortable.
Difficult to say mate as my summer bike is carbon and my winter bike is aluminium.
I just feel safer with 25's on the censored roads and I run my winter tyres about 10 psi sofetr than my summer. 110 psi on my summer bike and 95 - 100 on my winter.
Argon18 E114
Specialized Langster Single Speed
Scott Spark Expert 29'er
GT Avalanche
http://www.glasgowgreencycleclub.co.uk
So do 23mm tyres become become magically faster when you're racing?
The determinant factor is often the road surface and given the state of our rough roads, a narrow hard tyre is just more uncomfortable and will puncture more easily. Air resitance has negligible influence and anything above 110psi is generally pointless.
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3013/243 ... 8d.jpg?v=0
http://img362.imageshack.us/my.php?imag ... 076tl5.jpg
http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/3407 ... e001af.jpg
Choice of tyres depends on aplication.
23mm is a pro racing standard because it makes the best compromise between rolling, weight and air drag.
A typical bloke riding for fitness on some bad UK roads at 15-18mph doesn't have to worry about the weight or air resistance and most certainly will be faster comfier and safer on wider rubber thanks to reduced rolling resistance, lower pressure and larger footprint.
I think it's time that we abandon the oversimplified view of rolling resistance as a simple function of a contact patch area (narrower and harder is better :roll: ) and forget about the "that's what the pros use" nonsense and consider improved rolling of wider rubber as a fact, not speculation or theory.
It's the pressure that makes the difference, not the tyre width.
You only need wider tyres if you want to run lower pressures.
Then again, most people on this forum overinflate their tyres anyway.
I'm afraid you've just failed tyres 101 because it is the shape of the tyre carcass that does make all the difference. There's been plenty of published research on the subject & suggest you start on the Conti tyres website..
Really? to comfort?
Links please.
Also - forgive my scepticism from research published by a tyre manufacturer. Presumably it's in their interest to have tyre with differentation?
Can't find the original article - it was well publicised at the time but the conclusion was the biggest factor on rolling resistance was hysteresis - simplicitly: tyre deformation. Fatter tyres deform less for the same pressure and therefore lose less energy. Air resistance has negligible impact. The shape of a tyre patch also has a bearing on grip - a wider tyre has a broader contact patch and therefore more resistant to shear forces i.e. improved grip too. Finally bigger air pocket also improves comfort and reduces incidence of impact punctures.
I'd suggest that the performance difference between 25mm and 23mm is minimal, and the biggest impact on comfort, is the pressure which you run it at, which probably varies a lot more than the marginal gains or losses from a 25mm to a 23mm.
If we're going to go down the physics route, I'd imagine that the marginal gain from having a 25mm is probably negated by a) more air resistance and b) more mass to rotate.
Even on UK roads there's no reason to ride less than 6bar, unless you're doing some Roubaix stuff, and that's perfect for a 23mm tyre.
Spot-on.
Maybe one day the industry will learn that 26" is a much better option for commuter/leisure bikes than 700c. Hybrids suck.
It's all about the 28mm!
The evidence is there. All it takes is some brain power and ability to think independently, regardless of what B.S. one is fed with by magazines, manufacturers, forums and the club mates.
Some would say that if you need as much as 6bar, then your tyres are too narrow.
Anyway, thanks for telling us what we need
I've got the same brand of tyre (Michelin Krylion) in both widths.
Unfortunately because of the tight clearances on my Cannondale CAAD 8 frame, I can't run 25mm tyres with Crud Roadracer mudguards so I have to use 23mm during the Winter months.
On crappy road surfaces the 23mm tyres give some discomfort after 3 hours or so, whereas back in the summer rides of 60 or 70 miles were fine.
If you can fit 'em buy some 25's
8) 8) 8)
2008 Wilier Izoard
LOL...
Question....
Have my first outing on the road tomorrow and it looks like it's going to be wet.
My bike has Continental Grand Prix (24mm) tyres which currently have 120psi (as that's what's written as recommended on the tyre). I'm a road virgin (MTBer)
I know there are different versions.... so it's this one..
http://road.cc/content/review/6226-cont ... 0x24c-tyre
Looks like I need to remove a little bit of air. What pressure range do these tyres have and what would be recommended?
I'm sure I'll work it out over time (and will take it easy tomorrow)... but a ballpark psi figure would be good.
Thx
It's not magic - you go faster so aerodynamics are more important.
As far as tyre wall recommendations, they are about the manufacturer covering their [email protected] in case of claims rather than offering advice to neophyte pedallers. Depending on your weight, about 100 should be fine for most. More in the back, less in the front. Try it out, adjust to suit.