How much can a MTB HT take?
Liam 2010
Posts: 101
I've recently started getting in to MTBing and I'm getting my bike this coming weekend, which is going to be a Boardman Comp MTB HT.
I won't be ragging it too hard but I would like to give it a bit of stick. But, how do I know what it's limits are in terms of jumps and bumps, etc? Or is this something that I'll have to learn for myself?
Liam
I won't be ragging it too hard but I would like to give it a bit of stick. But, how do I know what it's limits are in terms of jumps and bumps, etc? Or is this something that I'll have to learn for myself?
Liam
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Comments
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Well here is what you can do on a road bike...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5z1fSpZNXhUMy Website - Trail Centre info for the UK: MTB Trail Time0 -
I think... Very little of what you're gonna do will even come close to breaking a HT frame
Note he's sensible and riding flats too. Even with all the lycra'd up stupidity0 -
Its a racy hardtail its not designed for jumps but it will take a lot of abuse.Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap0
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You'll probably break yourself before you break the bike.I don't do smileys.
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Parktools0 -
The only problem I can see is if you jump from a fairly high height and land bang on the rear wheel. Even then, the wheel will probably buckle first and cushion the impact.
I'll lay odds that you'll not break a frame unless there's a manufacturing fault in it.CAAD9
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Merlin Malt 40 -
Thanks for the help guys, I think if that's the case I should be fine with Comp HT, it will suit my needs.
I plan to take it off road and do realtively small jumps, nothing big though. Just a lot of riding in off road conditons, with the odd down hill cycle.
Liam0 -
It'll be fine- wasn't that long ago everyone rode rigid bikes.0
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Cool, thanks Snotty badger.
Just checked out your bike....looking really good!
Liam0 -
Buckled_Rims wrote:The only problem I can see is if you jump from a fairly high height and land bang on the rear wheel. Even then, the wheel will probably buckle first and cushion the impact.
I'll lay odds that you'll not break a frame unless there's a manufacturing fault in it.
It's like when you jump off a wall, you drop yourself down, and then push your legs out to meet the floor, reducing the distance you drop.0 -
yeehaamcgee wrote:Buckled_Rims wrote:The only problem I can see is if you jump from a fairly high height and land bang on the rear wheel. Even then, the wheel will probably buckle first and cushion the impact.
I'll lay odds that you'll not break a frame unless there's a manufacturing fault in it.
It's like when you jump off a wall, you drop yourself down, and then push your legs out to meet the floor, reducing the distance you drop.0 -
bennett_346 wrote:I would have thought it would be best to spread the impact forces across both wheels, same weight, but force is halved across both wheels so less stress on one rim.
Take a look at any trials rider doing a large drop off. There's a reason, in fact there's more than one reason, why they land back wheel first.0 -
yeehaamcgee wrote:bennett_346 wrote:I would have thought it would be best to spread the impact forces across both wheels, same weight, but force is halved across both wheels so less stress on one rim.
Take a look at any trials rider doing a large drop off. There's a reason, in fact there's more than one reason, why they land back wheel first.0 -
Imagine you're on a wall (on your legs, to simplify things).
To get off, you could either just step off, which would be the same as landing on both wheels.
OR
You could crouch down so that your backside is at the same level as the wall, then hop off, extending your legs to meet the ground.
By doing this, you're reducing the distance you're falling by the length of your legs.
When dropping onto the back wheel, this in essence is what you're doing. You can push the rear wheel much further down than you could push the whole bike.
Also, on landing, you can use the rear wheel as a pivot to absorb the impact.
If you allow your bodyweight to go rearwards, and the front wheel to drop in the opposite direction, and use your arm strength to damp the impact.
This one's kinda hard to explain, best bet is to watch trials riders and watch how they absorb huge drop-offs.
Oh, and also your legs are much more capable of absorbing an impact than your arms.0 -
yeehaamcgee wrote:Imagine you're on a wall (on your legs, to simplify things).
To get off, you could either just step off, which would be the same as landing on both wheels.
OR
You could crouch down so that your backside is at the same level as the wall, then hop off, extending your legs to meet the ground.
By doing this, you're reducing the distance you're falling by the length of your legs.
When dropping onto the back wheel, this in essence is what you're doing. You can push the rear wheel much further down than you could push the whole bike.
Also, on landing, you can use the rear wheel as a pivot to absorb the impact.
If you allow your bodyweight to go rearwards, and the front wheel to drop in the opposite direction, and use your arm strength to damp the impact.
This one's kinda hard to explain, best bet is to watch trials riders and watch how they absorb huge drop-offs.
Oh, and also your legs are much more capable of absorbing an impact than your arms.0 -
bennett_346 wrote:yeehaamcgee wrote:Imagine you're on a wall (on your legs, to simplify things).
To get off, you could either just step off, which would be the same as landing on both wheels.
OR
You could crouch down so that your backside is at the same level as the wall, then hop off, extending your legs to meet the ground.
By doing this, you're reducing the distance you're falling by the length of your legs.
When dropping onto the back wheel, this in essence is what you're doing. You can push the rear wheel much further down than you could push the whole bike.
Also, on landing, you can use the rear wheel as a pivot to absorb the impact.
If you allow your bodyweight to go rearwards, and the front wheel to drop in the opposite direction, and use your arm strength to damp the impact.
This one's kinda hard to explain, best bet is to watch trials riders and watch how they absorb huge drop-offs.
Oh, and also your legs are much more capable of absorbing an impact than your arms.
I usually land on my face, cant see that catching on though0 -
Mynameisdann wrote:bennett_346 wrote:yeehaamcgee wrote:Imagine you're on a wall (on your legs, to simplify things).
To get off, you could either just step off, which would be the same as landing on both wheels.
OR
You could crouch down so that your backside is at the same level as the wall, then hop off, extending your legs to meet the ground.
By doing this, you're reducing the distance you're falling by the length of your legs.
When dropping onto the back wheel, this in essence is what you're doing. You can push the rear wheel much further down than you could push the whole bike.
Also, on landing, you can use the rear wheel as a pivot to absorb the impact.
If you allow your bodyweight to go rearwards, and the front wheel to drop in the opposite direction, and use your arm strength to damp the impact.
This one's kinda hard to explain, best bet is to watch trials riders and watch how they absorb huge drop-offs.
Oh, and also your legs are much more capable of absorbing an impact than your arms.
I usually land on my face, cant see that catching on though0 -
bennett_346 wrote:yeehaamcgee wrote:Buckled_Rims wrote:The only problem I can see is if you jump from a fairly high height and land bang on the rear wheel. Even then, the wheel will probably buckle first and cushion the impact.
I'll lay odds that you'll not break a frame unless there's a manufacturing fault in it.
It's like when you jump off a wall, you drop yourself down, and then push your legs out to meet the floor, reducing the distance you drop.
The front still does take some of the impact but by landing rear wheel first, you are allowing your legs to absorb more of the impact which have far better shock absorbing properties than your arms.0 -
rudedog wrote:bennett_346 wrote:yeehaamcgee wrote:Buckled_Rims wrote:The only problem I can see is if you jump from a fairly high height and land bang on the rear wheel. Even then, the wheel will probably buckle first and cushion the impact.
I'll lay odds that you'll not break a frame unless there's a manufacturing fault in it.
It's like when you jump off a wall, you drop yourself down, and then push your legs out to meet the floor, reducing the distance you drop.
The front still does take some of the impact but by landing rear wheel first, you are allowing your legs to absorb more of the impact which have far better shock absorbing properties than your arms.0 -
We are. But take a bike and rider's mass, and almost all of it is on the rider. By making your legs absorb the impact you are reducing the impact to the frame.0
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bennett_346 wrote:I thought we were discussing stresses on the bike, not rider though?
What do you think is cause of the stresses on the bike?0 -
If you take an XC bike and constantly hammer it, you're likely to run into trouble. Maybe not the frame, but the whole build is with a purpose in mind. They'll take a reasonable amount of abuse, what you could call typical riding, but hammer it all the time and things will break. You also lose the tolerance for crashing etc- my Soul's build is perfectly capable of surviving anything I throw at it while I'm in control but if I screw up I can break stuff, I mullered the rear wheel at fort william with a really crap line choice. Wheels especially can be overstressed quite easily if you land a jump crossed up.
But, that's quite a lot of hammer. That bike'll be absolutely fine for the abuse most people will subject it to, in fact, loads of people who reckon they "need" a 6 inch full suss would probably be fine on one Not because it's as strong, but because people massively overestimate how awesome they are. Still, if you really do plan to beat it up, probably get something stronger, IMO. There's a reason not all bikes are 23lb XC bikes.Uncompromising extremist0 -
Yeah that makes sense, sunday night and physics don't go well together...0
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Cool, thanks for the advice guys.0
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I don't plan to hammer it too hard, moderately I'd say. Only when I need to, it won't take constant hammering. I just want to be confident that if I want to give it a bit of stick it will be able to handle it without any problems.
I had considered a HT pro, and I'm looking to see if I can stretch my budget out to purchase the pro instead.
Liam0 -
Isn't the CEN test the same for steel and aluminium?0
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You may be right. Think it was in WMB, they were talking about the reasons steel frames are not as skinny as they used to be.0
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No, I don't know if it is or not, I was asking if you knew.
It would make sense for them to be the same, since it doesn't matter what it's made of, their ultimate use will be the same.0 -
Also aluminium alloy frames when new are far stronger than they need to be, because they have to remain strong enough for their reasonable working life and they gradually weaken through fatigue with usage.
I'm enjoying getting increasingly large amounts of air (though still rather small!) with my Boardman HT Pro and my thinking is that by the time I break the frame (if that ever happens!) I shall be due a more hardcore HT anyway. For caning techy woodland southern singletrack hard there's very little I'd change about it, bar the small tweaks it's had (much bigger tyres running tubeless, better flat pedals, shorter stem and seatpost QR - essential if you want to ride aggressively without your saddle in the way) - it's very fast and lively but not scary.0