Refurbishment

kenniff

Have been scanning mags,trying bikes at shops etc for a few mounths now.
Like some bikes but am puzzled by the infatuation of weight.
Carbon this,ali that.
as a begginer i think i've found a temporary answer to my prdicament.
I have an old dawes and am thinking of refurbishing it.
The retro thing is ok with me,i quite like the idea and i am only trying to stay fit and give a mate a run for it on his madone ,cough,cough.
Will the bits be readily available and how can i find out the best supplier
many thanks
ken

Weejie54

What model of Dawes, and approximately how old?

You shouldn't have too much trouble refurbishing it unless you want original specification.

balthazar

It probably won't be fundamentally difficult to re-commission, but there is a Catch-22: for lifelong bikies who have boxes of old and assorted bike components, it is insignificantly easy, even enjoyable, to make a working bike where before there was a rusting wreck. For somebody with a more casual interest, however, these things can be an enormous pain, because many of the parts and fittings are unavailable, and may not work well with modern equipment.

If the bike simply needs a clean, an oil, and maybe new tyres, then I say – go ahead and do it. If it needs more serious attention, then consider whether you really want an evening project for a couple of weeks, at least..! Your needs may be better served by buying another inexpensive (new or second-hand) bike.

Weejie54

because many of the parts and fittings are unavailable,

I fail to see what would be unavailable.

Let's say it is a 70s/80s model.

68mm English thread sealed, square taper BB - freely available in a variety of axle lengths.
1" quill stem - still available new.
Bars to fit - still available.
5, 6 or 7 speed freewheel - still quite easy to locate. Conversion to cassette hubs is possible.
27 x 1 1/4 rims - still available - though conversion to 700c is easy enough and long reach brakes are not hard to find.
If the dropouts are 126mm, then it is not difficult to spread them to 130mm (ah...steel!) - though that would not be a necessity.
Mechs are available with or without hangers - it would likely have an integral hanger if it is 70s or 80s.

Downtube shifters are unlikely to be beyond repair but they are still available as new old stock - and it is not difficult to convert to STI/Ergo - and performance is not impeded by it being an older frame.

No need for a box of old parts.

kenniff

weejie54 many thanks for the encouragment,am in the process of refurbishing.
Will post up some pics if i can later and would appreciate all of the members oppions available.

cables
brake blocks
handle bars and stem
tyres

are the main bits.
many thanks
ken

Robert456

HI Ken,
Ebay may well be your invaluable sorce of bits, either NOS (new old stock) or good condition used. Just keep asking questions on the forum each time you need to make a purchase. In many ways older bikes are simpler and easier to repair or maintian. You will get best advice from people who have grown up with this era of bike, something to consider when approaching an LBS. If this adventure comfirms a new found love of cycling and you do later take the plunge for something new, you will have gained a lot of valuable bike fixing experience, and you will already own your second/hack bike. Your list of things needed is very small. Post some pics with spec info (as much a you know) as the parts you mention will be chosen dependant on what is already there

balthazar

@Weejie54: I'm writing from the experience of having tried to help people recommission old bikes before, only to find their enthusiasm didn't match mine... to non-mechanical folk who just want a cheap bike, a "shed find" can quickly reach the " too much hassle" threshold. Spreading a rear triangle or finding long-drop callipers on eBay may not mean much to regulars here, but much of that stuff would stop many in their tracks, or at least put them off.

Still, Ken, I'm glad to see you're made of sterner stuff. All those components you mention are insignificant to replace. You probably need a new freewheel and chain, too. Are you sure you need a new stem?

Weejie54

Weejie54: I'm writing from the experience of having tried to help people recommission old bikes before, only to find their enthusiasm didn't match mine...

Fair enough. I'm in the same boat but tend to be more encouraging!

kenniff

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kenniff

Anonymous

Sounds like fun.

Looks like with those horizontal dropouts at the back you might be able to make like easier and convert to a single speed.

ugo.santalucia

Bog standard components will still be available, often overengineered and ugly, but if you want period parts you'll have to go on E-bay.

balthazar

That's a nice bike. Have you checked the seatpost moves? I'd expect to add a new headset to the list too.

Robert456

The frames 531 which is a very good starting point, should ride nice hopefully.
Certainly looks more touring orientated, but maybe no bad thing
I would think the basis of the frame and wheels would be good to start with, rigida rims I don't think are that flash but should do the trick.
How do the hubs, gears, headset seem to be running?

kenniff

Robert456 wrote:

The frames 531 which is a very good starting point, should ride nice hopefully.
Certainly looks more touring orientated, but maybe no bad thing
I would think the basis of the frame and wheels would be good to start with, rigida rims I don't think are that flash but should do the trick.
How do the hubs, gears, headset seem to be running?

Not bad though i do need a front deralier.
would bog standard tyre/tubes fit these wheels and could i purchace similar lighweight bars/ brake levers
Thanks to all
ken

Robert456

I'm taking a guess that these are 700c wheels, should be able to check by either reading the rim decals or checking the tyre side wall. Bog dtandard are going to be heavy, slow and not particularly grippy. A quick scan of www.wiggle.co.uk shows known brand tyres from £10 to £15 each, panaracer, vittoria, continental.
The stem needs to be a 1 inch 'quill' type, should find on ebay, bars depends on your thoughts of using unknown used bars or the security of using new.
Stem and bars need to have the same diameter fixing, standard old school 25.4mm I think (although this may be brand specific), someone else will hopefully comfirm this.
Also you need to consider what break levers you willl be using, aero levers (cables under the bar tape) will preferably be used with a grooved handlebar..
If your happy to use old bars, I have a bar and stem which would fit your bike, nothing flash and not worth anything, all I would want is the postage.

Weejie54

The headbadge would suggest that it is an eighties model, and I reckon a Galaxy (probably Super Galaxy). It has touring geometry and the cantilevers would be on the Super Galaxy of that period. The CTC forum mob would be able to help there. It may have 27 x 1 1/4" wheels though the ones fitted do look like 700c ( I don't think Rigidas were original - Wolber or Weinmann seem more likely). Hard to tell from a photie.
They are still distributing quill stems (despite what you may hear) so bike shops can be visited as well as the eBay route. You'll get new bars too.

kenniff

Hi
yes the tyres say 27 x 1 1/4
great advice gents
many thanks
ken

Robert456

Maybe someone can advice on 27inch tyres, I've got Panaracers on my 27inch's, okay with gum walls for a better period look, not the most grippy though!

Weejie54

kenniff wrote:

Hi
yes the tyres say 27 x 1 1/4

This does make it a little problematic if you want to change to 700c wheels. You need adjustable pads to be able to drop 4mm. Avid Shorties should fit.

Robert456 wrote:

Maybe someone can advice on 27inch tyres, I've got Panaracers on my 27inch's, okay with gum walls for a better period look, not the most grippy though!

These may do the trick:

http://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/raleigh-wor ... -4-p137254

Says 'Raleigh' but they are Michelins.

gethmetal

Do the forks look like they've bent back slightly to anyone else?

jimwocko

Bikezone near the covered market in Oxford still sell 27 x 1 1/4 wheels and tyres. Quando hubs, Rigida rims I think, for about £20 a wheel. I bought some for a project last year - Not the lightest, but perfectly serviceable.

Loads of tyre options from Contis to Wilkinson own brand if you really want. I've used some Michelin City tyres from CRC with puncture protection and have found them to be pretty good.

seward4or5

Thread hijack...

Robert456 wrote:

The stem needs to be a 1 inch 'quill' type, should find on ebay, bars depends on your thoughts of using unknown used bars or the security of using new.

... what is the easiest way to determine the diameter of the fork steerer? Is it possible to do this without removing the fork from the steerer? Are quill stems always 1" diameter?

Cheers.

Weejie54

what is the easiest way to determine the diameter of the fork steerer? Is it possible to do this without removing the fork from the steerer? Are quill stems always 1" diameter?

Measure the portion that goes into the headset. If it's 22.2mm, you have a 1" steerer.
The common sizes of quill stems are 1" and 1 1/8" (steerer size).

bice

This looks a fun and easy to realise project, with plenty of parts available from numerous sources. Including wheels. It is very similar to my Reynolds 531 commuter, which is a Carlton mixte frame tourer.

Your wheels look fine, but are easy to replace. Bet the brakes are fine, but maybe new inner and outer cables. I'd get a cheap, maybe second hand front mech.

treat yourself to a new chain (and saddle).

Most important is to repack with grease both wheel hubs and the bottom bracket.

If you like the bike, I'd undo and re-grease/replace the headset as well - I didn't do this on one refurb and had a frame crack there. It might have been completely rusty.

Robert456

I'd be sure that it is a 1 inch steerer on a steel frame of this age, ready to eat my words if it turns out not to be

bice

Another tip - see Sheldon - is to replace the ball bearings in the BB if there are only none of them in a race with 11 loose ones. That, the wheel bearings re-packed and a new chain will make a noticeable improvement.

bice

kenniff wrote:

weejie54 many thanks for the encouragment,am in the process of refurbishing.
Will post up some pics if i can later and would appreciate all of the members oppions available.

cables
brake blocks
handle bars and stem
tyres

are the main bits.
many thanks
ken

In my experience, the cr@ppiest bit about old bikes are the brake levers - not the brakes themselves. Dont write off the tyres unless breaking up; I commute don a 30 year old pair in London and intend to do another winter with them this year. If they are the 'world tour' ones, they're excellent