Bike Weight...all that important ??

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  • weescott
    weescott Posts: 453
    El Capitano wrote:
    Oh dear... :roll: ........

    I am extremely obsessed with losing every gramm possible from my

    Have you looked at replacing MTB parts with road bike parts to save weight? I'm not that bad yet but I can see myself wanting to get my Blur under 20lbs and getting really picky. Currently 22.5lbs. :|
  • El Capitano
    El Capitano Posts: 6,401
    weescott wrote:
    El Capitano wrote:
    Oh dear... :roll: ........

    I am extremely obsessed with losing every gramm possible from my

    Have you looked at replacing MTB parts with road bike parts to save weight?

    Yep... :oops:

    Ran a Dura-Ace 12-27 Ti cassette for a while...
    1 2 3 4 (Dead)5 6
  • x-isle
    x-isle Posts: 794
    It's not the weight that counts it's where the weight is that's more important!

    ....and I don't mean mean which component, I mean your weight and it's position.
    Craig Rogers
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    x-isle wrote:
    It's not the weight that counts it's where the weight is that's more important!

    ....and I don't mean mean which component, I mean your weight and it's position.
    Very very true. Ideally you'd want to have all YOUR excess weight, on your opponent's rims.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    x-isle wrote:
    It's not the weight that counts it's where the weight is that's more important!
    I carry all my weight on my spare tyre :D



    or as Homer Simpsons put it... "Everyone here has a six-pack and I'm the only one with a keg!"
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Have you looked at replacing MTB parts with road bike parts to save weight? I'm not that bad yet but I can see myself wanting to get my Blur under 20lbs and getting really picky. Currently 22.5lbs.

    There aren't that many parts you could change, cassette and mechs, but then an alu MTB cassette would be lighter, they don't last, but if you want to hang your bike on the scales it's fine! Otherwise most parts are interchangeable. Road front mechs work pretty well, ran a Dura Ace on an Epic for a while. SRAM Red are the lightest road cassettes, but are no use whatsoever on an MTB as they can't shed mud.

    I can also tell you from bitter experience that the last 2.5lbs is seriously hard to shed! I'm down at 20.6 with my Fuel now with vaguely usable tyres, Freds on both ends would get to 20.4ish, that last 180g could cost quite a lot!
    Very very true. Ideally you'd want to have all YOUR excess weight, on your opponent's rims.

    I like that!
  • lawman
    lawman Posts: 6,868
    having shed nearly 4lbs from my maxlight in the past year or so, i can safely say that, in this case at least, losing weight has made a huge improvement to the ride of it. it accelreates easier, its easier to flick about and i would say that it has been the main reason i've found myself pushing alot harder than i used to do because it encourages it. downside to this is you can sometimes get carried away, and in its current setup i'd say you need to be on the top of your game to get its full potential, just like any other bike i guess :lol: but i think there is apoint where weight saving can get too excessive, id only get a bike to 23/24lbs then id stop. its more than light enough for me :D

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