What chain do you use?

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Comments

  • nikstar1
    nikstar1 Posts: 103
    Never had any problems with my Sram 991 - although I am not a manic rider so am quite unlikely to snap it.

    Many of my mates have had problems with others so I don't think I would normally stray from the good ol' SRAM!
  • djkatoom
    djkatoom Posts: 9
    Shimano XTR 9-speed - but I fond Shimano chains rarley break when fitted correctly using the correct jointing pin and a decent chain tool.
  • nikstar1
    nikstar1 Posts: 103
    Don't yoiu find them hard to fit though??

    Friend of mine and I struggle for about an hour trying to get the damn thing in the right place and although we didnt have the best tools available, we had ones good enough for the job but it was pretty tricky if you ask me!
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    All the Shimano chains I've had have broken at seemingly random places. Popped rivets, snapped links and so on.
  • djkatoom
    djkatoom Posts: 9
    I find them quite easy, but you do have to get to know the 'feel' for them when you get the pin just in the right position.

    This is where a good quality chain tool comes in because they don't flex at all and you can literally feel the pin tighten up and loosen off again as it passes through the outer chain link plates, opening up the hole to its own size as it goes.

    After fitting, if the link binds you probably know that slightly bending the chain sideways usually frees them up, but you should only need to do this with a little gentle force. If you need to bend it over your knee the pin isn't in the right place!!!
  • jpstar
    jpstar Posts: 561
    KMC X8 is what im running now after I broke a SRAM PC830 3 times in one month... :cry:
  • capoz77
    capoz77 Posts: 503
    djkatoom wrote:
    I find them quite easy, but you do have to get to know the 'feel' for them when you get the pin just in the right position.

    This is where a good quality chain tool comes in because they don't flex at all and you can literally feel the pin tighten up and loosen off again as it passes through the outer chain link plates, opening up the hole to its own size as it goes.

    After fitting, if the link binds you probably know that slightly bending the chain sideways usually frees them up, but you should only need to do this with a little gentle force. If you need to bend it over your knee the pin isn't in the right place!!!

    See i'd rather not take the risk and use a decent chain joiner pin, a la wippermanns. I'm happy shortening the chain with a decent park tool, but the join has to be clean, easy to unjoin when needed and with fresh links.

    At high speed with a lot of pressure applied on the pedals a chain snap can give a really nasty off. Anyone had a chain snap crash?
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    capoz77 wrote:
    Anyone had a chain snap crash?
    Hell yes, plenty, which is why I now ride KMC and Wippermann :evil:
  • Northwind
    Northwind Posts: 14,675
    djkatoom wrote:
    but I fond Shimano chains rarley break when fitted correctly using the correct jointing pin and a decent chain tool.

    Do people still do that? SRAM and KMC powerlinks fit Shimano (and are the reason I know none of the Shimano chains I've seen break failed because of bad fitting)
    Uncompromising extremist
  • bike-a-swan
    bike-a-swan Posts: 1,235
    971s stay shinier more easily than 951s I find, and I'm shallow enough to like that, so if there's a few quid going spare at the time I'll get it instead...

    Nearly removed two fairly important parts of the anatomy standing up a steep climb when the chain snapped, I dropped very quickly and the bike started coming backwards until arrested violently by my nethers. Stupid thing, but flipping hurt!
    Rock Lobster 853, Trek 1200 and a very old, tired and loved Apollo Javelin.
  • snotty badger
    snotty badger Posts: 1,593
    SRAM 971- used them for a couple of years and no problems. Nice and shiny too. :lol:

    I can't justify the extra ££ for 991- and 951 just ain't shiny enough! :lol:
    08 Pitch Pro
    14 Kona Unit
    Kona Kula SS
    Trailstar SS
    94 Univega Alpina 5.3
  • bike-a-swan
    bike-a-swan Posts: 1,235
    SRAM 971- used them for a couple of years and no problems. Nice and shiny too. :lol:

    I can't justify the extra ££ for 991- and 951 just ain't shiny enough! :lol:

    I'm glad there are others!
    Rock Lobster 853, Trek 1200 and a very old, tired and loved Apollo Javelin.
  • snotty badger
    snotty badger Posts: 1,593
    :lol::wink:
    08 Pitch Pro
    14 Kona Unit
    Kona Kula SS
    Trailstar SS
    94 Univega Alpina 5.3
  • i use SRAM PC991
  • Northwind
    Northwind Posts: 14,675
    Just ordered another 2 KMC X9-93s, still £10.50 from Parkers, can't really see past that myself- retail packaged and even comes with a powerlink.
    Uncompromising extremist
  • beverick
    beverick Posts: 3,461
    Another vote for Sram 9xx's

    I have a 991 on the road bike and 971's on the hybrid and MTB.

    The Powerlinks can be a bit of a pain in the ar$e to remove though!

    Bob
  • projectsome
    projectsome Posts: 4,478
    had a stock chain on mine (think it's a sram) which just snapped so I'll be replacing it with a KMC
    FARKBOOK TWATTER Happiness is my fucking mood!
  • Bike Bloke
    Bike Bloke Posts: 172
    jayson wrote:
    SRAM PC991 or 971 depending on how flush i am at the time.

    Using the 991 solid pin version at the moment, no problems. However I did have the hollow-pin version and it snapped from a standing start after a week of use...leading to my chainring taking a nice chunk out of my leg.

    Stick to the solid ones! Mind you those blingy Shimano Yumeya? ones looks pretty cool!
  • capoz77
    capoz77 Posts: 503
    Heres a pic of the fantastic wippermann link, how does this compare to current SRAM/KMC offerings?

    wipperman-connex-chain-connector.jpg
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    it's approximately 33.34% better.
  • xtreem
    xtreem Posts: 2,965
    By looking at it, does it needs like zero effort to remove that link?

    Unlike my Powerlink which is useless. Seriously, I can't remove it. :shock:
    Instead I use the chain breaker, make things a lot easier.
  • Northwind
    Northwind Posts: 14,675
    Xtreem wrote:
    Unlike my Powerlink which is useless. Seriously, I can't remove it. :shock:

    Bad workmen ;)

    Nah, to be fair it does happen sometimes, I've come across a couple thathave been very, very difficult to move. One of them was a wee bit twisted, I assume it'd chainsucked or something, couldn't see anything wrong with the other one other than that the bastid wouldn't come off :lol: So I've got a pair of modified pliars to muscle off difficult ones.
    Uncompromising extremist
  • Just fitted a KMC Xsomething or other. Gotta say i am very impressed, powerlink is great, can't see it ever being a problem, simple slide and remove!
    MmmBop

    Go big or go home.
  • you need three hands for the power links! one to squeeze it together on the side, and one to push from each end! always a pita to do when you need to, btu when at home and noones watching they pop off with the least effort!! :wink:

    park do a powerlink tool!!
    Timmo.
    After all, I am Cornish!
    http://cornwallmtb.kk5.org/
    Cotic Soul, The bike of Legends!:wink: Yes, I Am a bike tart!
    http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtop ... 1#16297481
  • Northwind
    Northwind Posts: 14,675
    edited July 2010
    you need three hands for the power links! one to squeeze it together on the side, and one to push from each end!

    Nope. One hand to squeeze together and push from one side, the other hand to squeeze together and push from the other. You're kind of grinding the two halves together and along each other, rather than just squeezing together then pushing along
    Uncompromising extremist
  • BigShot
    BigShot Posts: 151
    "Ever had a chain snap crash?"

    I've chewed up my shins on the pedal after a snapped chain once or twice (was broke and couldn't afford a new chain when I desperately needed one) and about 3 months ago nearly got run over due to a chain snap.

    Pulled away from some lights pedalling pretty hard as in a hurry and *bang* about half way across the junction with a load of cars steaming up behind. I got dead wobbly for a moment, managed to stay on and got away to the side before the cagers mowed me down.

    Despite that I'm still using a Shimano "9 speed chain, please" I got from the LBS. Feels strong so far (I always felt like the previous one was about to go on me for some reason).

    I'll get something swanky when I replace my chainrings and rear cassette (both need doing) though.
  • xtreem
    xtreem Posts: 2,965
    park do a powerlink tool!!
    :lol: Wasn't the point of the powerlink to be tool free?
  • blister pus
    blister pus Posts: 5,780
    Xtreem wrote:
    park do a powerlink tool!!
    :lol: Wasn't the point of the powerlink to be tool free?

    they are when they don't have any type of lube on them it's when they get gunked up they're a turd to remove. worst one is using a lube like squirt it just sticks the plates together like glue and gets in the slide holes, master link pliers deal with that no messin'.

    other than that i use my water bottle nozzle and try and clean it as best i can. that usually 'unlocks' it with the help of a topeak hexus chain hook. but it is a pain.