Hardtail with flat pedals?
CavemanDavvy
Posts: 121
i went out for a ride up Cwmcarn yesterday with my trek 6500 hardtail and i use 661 filter shoes with some shimano flat pedals.
I noticed coming down that wen it got to the techy rough sections me feet kept jumping off the pedals.
Is this because its a hardtail and it wouldnt happpn on a full sus coz the bumps are absorbed by the rear suspension keeping your feet on the pedals. or could a pedal with a bigger platform benefiit,
Any help appreciated
I noticed coming down that wen it got to the techy rough sections me feet kept jumping off the pedals.
Is this because its a hardtail and it wouldnt happpn on a full sus coz the bumps are absorbed by the rear suspension keeping your feet on the pedals. or could a pedal with a bigger platform benefiit,
Any help appreciated
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Comments
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It may just be the combination of shoes and pedals. The fact that it's a hardtail will obviously mean the back end bounces around a lot more, but I use a hardtail with DMR V12's and 5.10's and they never come off.Never put off until tomorrow something that you can do today. 'Cause if you do it today, and like it, the you can do it again tomorrow!!0
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i was going to get some dmr v12 i think soon, because the ones iv got now i think are just for recreational cycling, they are shimano m324's. the filter shoes are pretty good though so it must be the pedal.0
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Try some wellgo mg1 lighter, cheaper and better than the v120
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what about the dmr v8's are they any different to the v12's0
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the DMR v8s are highly reccomended, and are cheap on the internet. the v 12's are SLIGHTLY lighter for weight freaks, and the grip is exactly the same. i think the bearings on the v12's are also slighltly better. bear in mind though, that what ever colour you have them in, except for silver of course, the paint does wear quickly. i personally view this as an advantage, as the missing black paint matches the missing black paint on my cranks from a rubbish riding technique. i know of several other people who would also reccommend them.
As concerns feet skipping of pedals, i recently adjusted my seatpost height, as i am a teenager and am suffering from the dreadful curse of growth, and went on my favorite ride and found that my feet were no where near as grippy as they had been with a lower saddle. just a hint, but try lowering your saddle height for particularly bumpy sections or technical sections.Am i strange in that i actually ENJOY going up hills? Yes, yes i am.
PS: Full - Sussers are for SOFTIES AND BIG GIRLS0 -
I ride a hard tail with flats. I use superstar nanotechs, excellent pedals much grippier than V8's in my experience.
http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/
£1.25 for sign up http://www.quidco.com/user/491172/42301
Cashback on wiggle,CRC,evans follow the link
http://www.topcashback.co.uk/ref/MTBkarl0 -
does anyone have any experience in using these shoes with flat pedals?0
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It'll be those pedals that are making it slippy. You need something with pins on really because they actually dig into the bottom of the shoes. Difference between V8's and V12's are the V12's have sealed bearings which means they will last longer.Never put off until tomorrow something that you can do today. 'Cause if you do it today, and like it, the you can do it again tomorrow!!0
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Good pedals help, but technique makes a whole lot more difference. If you aren't already, keep your heels pointed down when you're standing.0
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In my experience the filter shoes aren't great on flat pedals. I'd try a new shoe, either 5 10s or the Shimano AM40.0
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CavemanDavvy wrote:I noticed coming down that wen it got to the techy rough sections me feet kept jumping off the pedals.
Is this because its a hardtail and it wouldnt happpn on a full sus coz the bumps are absorbed by the rear suspension keeping your feet on the pedals. or could a pedal with a bigger platform benefiit,
It's technique I'm afraid, not the bike nor the pedals. Sticky shoes and spiky pedals do make it easier to keep your footing but they'll still slip if you do it wrong. But it should come to you with a little practice and time, it's just all about moving with the bike rather than being "on" the bike really. It'll come naturally though, the same techniques that make you feel more comfortable and in control on the bike also fasten you to it.Uncompromising extremist0 -
I use am40's and they stick really well although when i use 6.0s they tend to slip and i have to practice a bit to stop my feet slipping out. So what im saying is practice a bit. i also agree about the nanotechs0
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some people say the 661 filters are good for flats others disagree. Im not using them for flat out dh just cross country so they should be good with v8's0
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seriously, don't get the v8 or v12, they're rebadged wellgos, like the vast bulk of pedals.
Get mg-1 as they're lighter than v-12 mag, better platform and better bearings.
If you MUST have v8 or v12 then get the wellgo 'copy' (lol as wellgo make the dmr ones) for a fraction of the cost.
If you want something pimpy try and get your hands on a set of the point one racing podium pedals, they're lovely!0 -
i seen those welgos on crc. they are names v8 copy, so they must be the same. can u change the pins on them because i was looking to get some blue ones maybe0
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Yes they have replacable pins. Infact, IMO, they have better pins because they are thru-pins not grub screws
My dad has the silver V8 copies and they do the job.
I prefer my Superstar nano thru-pins though0 -
Agree with comments re. grub screws v thru-pins, I have shimano dx flats with the longer grub screws fitted & whilst they're excellent for grip, a few of the pins have taken direct hits from passing boulders or the heads are clogged up with clumps of hair & skin from my legs rendering them an absolute pain in the arse to remove.
As for shoes, i've always found anything sturdy with a soft-ish sole to be fine - current faves are a pair of nike acg gore-tex hiking trainers from sports direct for aboot £30 - bargain!Moda Issimo
Genesis Volare 853
Charge Filter Apex0 -
is the extra £10 or so worth it for the grease ports on the dmr v8 and how do u remove the axel to grease it on the wellgo versions.0
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as northwind and others have said good technique is more important than good pedals and grippy shoes. a rider with good technique will be able to use any combination of pedals and shoes. i've forgotten my 5:10's on a few occasions and have had to ride in converses, and ive only ever slipped a pedal a few times, i could certainly count them on one hand. practise is the key and it may be worth watching someone like sam hill or sam blenkinsop to get an idea of what good technique really is0
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Saying the Wellgos are the same as the V8's is like saying you might as well get a VW Polo instead of a Bugatti Veyron because they're made by the same company. The V8's have better bearings, stronger axles and are easier to maintain (and the pins provide more grip). Even though the copies are made by the same company, they are made to a cheaper budget.Never put off until tomorrow something that you can do today. 'Cause if you do it today, and like it, the you can do it again tomorrow!!0
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The MG1s are actually better than either the V12s or the V8s, more reliable and a better platform shape. Can't speak for the "V8 copies", never had those.Uncompromising extremist0
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I'm ordering some Superstar Nano Thru Pins tommorow, they look pretty cush and ive read good things about them all over0
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Actually the "copies" are better because they have all replacable pins and they are thru-pins so can nearly always be 'fixed' and the bearings are better.
The "real" V8's develop play very very quickly, the "copies" haven't in the past 7 months and you know some of the weather we have had in that time and it was about a 17 stone rider as well whereas the "real" V8's had a 14 stone rider and no where near as much abuse, especially weather wise.
And BTW, the copies have the same body design as the original V8 and V12 pedals I believe0 -
bennett_346 wrote:I'm ordering some Superstar Nano Thru Pins tommorow, they look pretty cush and ive read good things about them all over
You won't regret it0 -
superstar pedals are on offer mags are 44.99 340g just ordered my self some nano tec
32.24
barginplay hard ride hard0 -
can someone explain to me in layman's terms what the difference is between thru-pins and the normal superstar nano techs please? are the thru pins more serviceable?0
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Thru-pins are easier to remove when worn/damaged than grub screws.
Grub screws screw in from the top of the pedal body, thru-pins, well through the pedal body.
The thru-pin model also has an extra support from the axel to the outer edge of the body which is why they are slightly heavier.
They both use the same axel and bearings etc. so are both just as easy to service0 -
They're at a bargain price right now too, as if they weren't cheap enough anyway!0
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For anyone that can't afford the Nano's, have a look at this
Apparantly based on the Nano's with the same spindle and bearings and stuff. Might buy a pair for my dad since he could do with some bigger pedals for more confidence since he has been off the bike for a while0 -
sdalby wrote:Saying the Wellgos are the same as the V8's is like saying you might as well get a VW Polo instead of a Bugatti Veyron because they're made by the same company. The V8's have better bearings, stronger axles and are easier to maintain (and the pins provide more grip). Even though the copies are made by the same company, they are made to a cheaper budget.
In principle you're right, buy in this case you're wrong as the 'copies' are built to a higher standard that the v8s, you're purely paying for the little forged dmr logo.
As for greasing them, if you really want to you unbolt the end-cap and fill with grease and replace, prise up the wiper at the other end, grease and replace. If you really want to take them apart you need a very slim socket, but it is doable.0