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Removing crank arms

montevideoguymontevideoguy Posts: 2,271
edited June 2010 in MTB workshop & tech
Hey guys,
Starting to get properly pissed off. Trying to remove my cranks to get at my BB but when I screw in my crank puller and turn the arm till it tightens nothing happens and it stays solidly on. Scared to put too much pressure in case I balls up the threads. Does anyone have any suggestions? Really don't want to take it to lbs as looking at tutorial vids it looks like a piece of piss to do.

It's a square taper BB and it's a Park Tool crank puller CCP-22 (double checked on site to make sure it's right tool)
Formally known as Coatbridgeguy

Posts

  • supersonicsupersonic Posts: 82,708 Lives Here
    Sometimes they take a colossal pull to get them off. Many a time I have thought something must give, but 99% of the time it comes off. Only once as it pulled the threads out and I have done this loads of times.

    Give it some welly lol. Make sure the first part is screwed in tight on the arm, and that the inner bit isn't actually bottoming on the outer.
    GT ZASKAR CARBON TEAM

    VOODOO CANZO

    Come and see me at https://www.facebook.com/biketyke/
  • montevideoguymontevideoguy Posts: 2,271
    Right I've tried but seems to be making a circle in the square hole lol. Can't seem to pull it any tighter :?
    Formally known as Coatbridgeguy
  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 50,675 Lives Here
    do you have the correct end on?

    and yes it can take a LOT of force.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • supersonicsupersonic Posts: 82,708 Lives Here
    Hmmm. Try heating it gently first. Boiling water on it can work.
    GT ZASKAR CARBON TEAM

    VOODOO CANZO

    Come and see me at https://www.facebook.com/biketyke/
  • willingwilling Posts: 61
    The first time I didi this,I had an extra magnetic piece on the end of the puller without realising :lol: . I thought it seemed to be a bit toooo solid. :)
    Nig.
  • montevideoguymontevideoguy Posts: 2,271
    Having lunch just now but will take pics of what I'm using and what I'm sticking it into (oo err Mrs).
    Formally known as Coatbridgeguy
  • montevideoguymontevideoguy Posts: 2,271
    I am using this:

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/4652494973/

    in here

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected] ... otostream/


    That help?
    Formally known as Coatbridgeguy
  • DufferDuffer Posts: 379
    As said above, make sure you're using the correct adaptor on your crank puller.

    If you really are worried about it, spray a bit of WD40 in there, put plenty pressure on it with the crank extractor, and leave it for 10 minutes - while you get a brew - and try again.

    Or like Sonic said, get some heat in there. If it's really not moving, take it to the LBS - and they'll do exactly the same thing.
    Bespoke steel Hardtail
    Bespoke trail 'Susser
  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 50,675 Lives Here
    4652494973_18a82dd1e1.jpg

    looks like you are missing the end of the tool.

    should look like

    spr_CCP_22_69_2008114_92027.jpg


    looks like the end has fallen off

    spr_CCP_22_661_2008114_10271.jpg
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • willingwilling Posts: 61
    now we're on the subject of crank removers, can anyone tell me what the extra piece is on the tool I have. It was on the end,held on by magnetism. Only when I removed it was I able to get the crank off my Vulcan.

    crankog.jpg

    Nig.
  • supersonicsupersonic Posts: 82,708 Lives Here
    For hollow axles ie Octalink and ISIS.
    GT ZASKAR CARBON TEAM

    VOODOO CANZO

    Come and see me at https://www.facebook.com/biketyke/
  • willingwilling Posts: 61
    Thankyou Supersonic.

    Nig. 8)
  • montevideoguymontevideoguy Posts: 2,271
    Thanks chaps. Was the wee bit that made the difference (damn thing fell off when I took it out packaging and never noticed).


    Now I'm removing the BB and got me a new problem. I have managed to unscrew the plastic screw in part but the other side seems welded on. Double checked to make sure I was going the right direction. Any ideas on this?
    Formally known as Coatbridgeguy
  • supersonicsupersonic Posts: 82,708 Lives Here
    Again lots of force lol. Try some penetration fluid in from the other side.
    GT ZASKAR CARBON TEAM

    VOODOO CANZO

    Come and see me at https://www.facebook.com/biketyke/
  • montevideoguymontevideoguy Posts: 2,271
    lol the removal tool thingy falls out far too often when I apply the force of a dozen incredible hulks. I hope bike maintenance gets easier after this! hahaha
    Formally known as Coatbridgeguy
  • AnonymousAnonymous Posts: 79,667
    The metal side of the BB can require substantial torque to undo. Try a massive extension bar, and tap it with a mallet (in the right direction of course!)
  • montevideoguymontevideoguy Posts: 2,271
    Thanks. Gonna chill out and then go at it again later. If that fails then it's offto lbs to get shafted lol


    Kudos to everyone who has contributed
    Formally known as Coatbridgeguy
  • AnonymousAnonymous Posts: 79,667
    Out of interest, it took a 4 foot extension and a hell of a lot of bodyweight to remove my last cartridge style BB.
    That's why it's always worth paying extra for very good quality BB sockets, the splies can just give on cheaper ones.
  • AnonymousAnonymous Posts: 79,667
    Oh, and stick some copperslip on the threads when replacing it, to prevent bimetal corrosion making things even worse.
  • rottitera02rottitera02 Posts: 863
    Ihad a similar problem with the old square taper cranks that i replaced......i couldn't get em off and in the end the internal thread of the pedal arms started stripping.......even with the correct tool......

    I ended up getting a puller with slim feet to fit between the back of the pedal and the bb.....this is what i got and it only cost me a tenner, did the job in 30 secs easy......

    http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-AK46080- ... 91&sr=1-23
    .
    .
    .
    2001 Cove Stiffee FR
    Trek liquid 10
    Dolan Hercules Carbon
  • DaveHudsonDaveHudson Posts: 290
    If your BB tool has a hole in it (ie like this CLICK) then use a suitible bolt and a large washer or two to bolt the tool tight into the BB. Then you only have to concentrate on turning the tool and not holding it in tight.

    Has helped me a few times so may help?
    2011 Cannondale Flash F1
  • DufferDuffer Posts: 379
    rottitera02 wrote:
    I ended up getting a puller with slim feet to fit between the back of the pedal and the bb.....this is what i got and it only cost me a tenner, did the job in 30 secs easy......

    http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-AK46080- ... 91&sr=1-23

    That's the sort of tool you'd use to get the flywheel off of an engine. Not really what it's designed for, but if it works for you then top marks for ingenuity :)
    Bespoke steel Hardtail
    Bespoke trail 'Susser
  • montevideoguymontevideoguy Posts: 2,271
    Just a wee update. Tried all above tips but no joy so booked bike into lbs to get BB removed.

    Thanks for all the help and suggestions though :D
    Formally known as Coatbridgeguy
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