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loads of travel in back brake

NEIL 7NEIL 7 Posts: 3
edited April 2010 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi folks

i'm new to this game, i have a boardman sport mtb and having trouble with the back hydraulic brake.

its a "tektra auriga comp" there is loads of travel in the back brake and its not stopping me very well, i've tried bleeding the thing and i think i've done it properly no bubbles etc

put it all back together, same amount of travel if not more and sqeauling like a pig.

if someone could point ne in the right direction that would be good, i'd take it back to halfords but i wouldn't give them the time of day!

cheers, Neil.

Posts

  • supersonicsupersonic Posts: 82,708 Lives Here
    Try pumping the lever repeatedly to set the pistons.

    If still not good, you must take it back.
  • NEIL 7NEIL 7 Posts: 3
    thank you, so the travel in the lever is determined by the bleeding?
  • TowerRiderTowerRider Posts: 430
    Have you seen my recent thread re exact brake? I had the same issue.
    See if scenario similar, got bike and used it for very small road ride and no issue, went for one half decent ride and no issue. Left bike standing (not raised or by wheel) for a good few months while busy with other things. Came to bike and noticed that the rear lever was very soft and all the way down. Pumping the lever would fix problem for a short period of time.
    I took the bike in for a service, this problem was allegedly fixed. Went to take it out on a ride and the lever very spongy.

    Purchased bleed kit and correct valve. I pushed the syringe fluid into the caliper and a number of small air bubbles could be seen coming out of the bleed valve and attatched tube (in reservoir port near lever). I then got a nice long (4 or so inches - o'er) line of fluid without any air bubbles BUT I contiuned to push more fluid and then more bigger bubbles came out! I then squeezed the rear lever and it felt better, I squeeze it a few more times before I closed nipple on caliper and then removed bleed nipple in reservoir and replaced screw - perfect job. Fixed exactly what you have by the sounds of it.
  • If it's a new bike, take it back to Halfords. They don't have the best reputation for setting up bikes but I'm pretty sure they'll put the effort in to make a better job of it the 2nd time round.

    I'm all for DIY and getting your hands dirty, but brakes and gears can be a faff...and it shouldn't really come out of the shop like that.
  • captainflycaptainfly Posts: 1,001
    Iirc you need to reset the caliper pistons with a closed system to reset the lever piston. other wise you end up with not enough fluid in them (making the lever move loads for no bite). A quick way is to push some more fluid in with a closed lever, well that's what II used to do.
    -_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_
    Mongoose Teocali
    Giant STP0

    Why are MTB economics; spend twice as much as you intended, but only half as much as you wish you could afford? :roll:
  • richg1979richg1979 Posts: 1,087
    to reduce lever throw, remove caliper from frame/fork then pump the brake so there is just enough space between the pads to get the caliper back on the disc, the caliper will require a bit more lining up as you will have less space for disc run out but it should have a more solid lever.
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