Tacx Satori
dave35
Posts: 1,124
How do you calibrate yours? and what setting do you use for turbo work?
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I don't calibrate it a I have a power meter.
Generally it's on 4, for climbing or sprints 8 or 9, recovery 2 or 3...0 -
Surely you do a spin down test? i have a powermeter aswell.0
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Why?
I just get on, zero the powertap and away I go, the power is what it is, not bothered about speed...0 -
what do you calibrate a satori for? do they do power?0
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Presumably so if you're in gear x with a cadence of y the resistance is the same from day to day?More problems but still living....0
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amaferanga wrote:Presumably so if you're in gear x with a cadence of y the resistance is the same from day to day?
Can change as the thing warms up.
This doesn't matter as the power is what it is...
The satori is a basic turbo btw...0 -
NapoleonD wrote:amaferanga wrote:Presumably so if you're in gear x with a cadence of y the resistance is the same from day to day?
Can change as the thing warms up.
This doesn't matter as the power is what it is...
The satori is a basic turbo btw...
I know, but if it starts off the same it'll warm up the same. I don't see any harm in trying to make the resistance as repeatable as possible.More problems but still living....0 -
Surely the turbo should be set up the same for each session i.e tyre pressure and by doing a spin down test will get the resistance correct???
So what setting do you find is closest to riding on the road? on my tacx flow it was slope 2 or 3.0 -
dave35 wrote:Surely the turbo should be set up the same for each session i.e tyre pressure and by doing a spin down test will get the resistance correct???
So what setting do you find is closest to riding on the road? on my tacx flow it was slope 2 or 3.
I just ride by power/hr. I don't worry about road feel.
What spin down test are you suggesting Dave?0 -
Usually it's spin up to 20 mph and then stop pedalling-wheel should stop spinning at about 10-12 seconds. i used to use that to see if the resistance is the same as the last session.0
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Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I have a similar question:
I've been using the satori with trainerroad on resistance level 5 for a couple of years now. Fully understand that the estimated power is not accurate but for me it was fairly repeatable. That was until I decided to put a new tyre on the bike and am now getting killed trying to match the same estimated power. The bike is only used on the turbo so nothing else has changed. The wheel does now seems to stop in no time so I will loosen off the resistance knob and do another ftp.
In the interest of getting the estimated power slightly more realistic, has anyone got any results from spindown/rundown tests with this setup? I think I remember someone getting a pretty accurate match between the trainerroad estimated power and that from a power meter so there might be some merit in trying to match a rundown test to this sort of setup.
Thanks for any help.0 -
actually not to worry, discovered the tension cable was rubbing against the wheel...0