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Is it always this difficult

snellgrovesnellgrove Posts: 171
edited April 2009 in Commuting chat
Or am I missing some vital knowledge because I'm a rookie at taking bikes apart & working on them? (No cheeky comments please! I did the stem on my mountain bike, it was a 5 minute job!!!)

Heres the story... I ordered a new stem for my road bike. It (eventually) arrived and I went to put it on. Turns out it's smaller than my current stem (height-wise) on the steerer, so I go to buy a spacer.. and decide, hey... lets just get the steerer cut down by 5mm or so instead, do it properly y'know? :-) Save 0.1 grams too. Bonus. So, booked in at the LBS, they requested I bring in the fork (or bike, but they preferred just the fork)

Anyhoo, I figure out how to get the fork out....easy enough - I know that it's a threadless headset. The handlebars are cabled up to the bike (of course) so I start to undo the cables to free the handlebars from the frame. Except I don't know how to undo them from the handlebars. Hmm, google google.. no joy. I figure out that pulling the brake lever exposes the top of the cable inside, but obviously it only comes out through the STI (i.e. whole cable goes through & out)

So, I have to undo it at the brakes / derailleurs and pull through the cable runs. Easy. Except the cables have those caps on them to stop them fraying... and they're 0.000001mm too large to fit through the cable runs! bastards!!

So I have to cut the cables I guess?? Did this in the end to free the handlebars - new cables required, and no-doubt I'll have to re-bar tape the drops to run the new cables through. Joy.. another job??

I take the fork out and then realise that they'll need the frame with them tomorrow, because they need to know how much steerer pokes out the top with the existing spacer etc

ugh. :evil: I hate you Scott... unless I'm just clueless, which is also a possibility. It'll be worth it in the end though !!! :-)

Posts

  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 81,520 Lives Here
    well you did not need to do anything to the cables other than removing the front brake to take off the fork.

    But yes the whole bike is what the LBS need.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • gtvlussogtvlusso Posts: 5,112
    Hmm - MTFU and but a TIG welder! You will never get a rush like lining up and brazing your own track fork ends in using an oxy acetelene torch......Or using an angle grinder to remove those other nasty brazes ons and trim down the fork ends so thatMKS chain tugs fit properly.

    Messing about with spanners......I dunno! :-)
  • snellgrovesnellgrove Posts: 171
    Mmmmm glad the wife didn't see the kitchen earlier.....

    3484543714_1604c45ec9.jpg

    Oh it's all good really. Just found the Shimano tech doc for taking the STI's off.

    Will post a pic of the finished product tomorrow!!

    Do I have to buy any specific cabling for the 105 groupset or is generic stuff OK? I don't know.. seems Wiggle have Dura Ace cabling, so was wondering if it's all proprietary.

    GTV - your bike looks very clean and minimal! :-)
  • gtvlussogtvlusso Posts: 5,112
    snellgrove wrote:
    Mmmmm glad the wife didn't see the kitchen earlier.....

    3484543714_1604c45ec9.jpg

    Oh it's all good really. Just found the Shimano tech doc for taking the STI's off.

    Will post a pic of the finished product tomorrow!!

    Do I have to buy any specific cabling for the 105 groupset or is generic stuff OK? I don't know.. seems Wiggle have Dura Ace cabling, so was wondering if it's all proprietary.

    GTV - your bike looks very clean and minimal! :-)

    Dude - your picture has bought a tear to my eye - I remember the days of stripping it down in the kitchen - putting parts that were seized in the oven in a vain effort to heat them up and prize them apart....

    Cabling is generic - you either buy brake cable or gear cable (obviously, don't use brake cable for your gears or vice versa!). Dura Ace stuff is fine - I replaced all my Ultegra cabling with it last month after some winter damage.

    Should take you about 30 mins to re-cable the bike - remember to put some oil down the sheaths before you put the inner through - pull it nice and tight before you clamp and set all your derailleur screws to the same height (middle value as such!) Dead easy to set up then!
  • _Brun__Brun_ Posts: 1,740
    I wish my kitchen looked like that. Except for the washing machine, oven and fridge of course.
  • bratboybratboy Posts: 82
    I hope you don't decide to swap the stem out again and find you need that 5mm put back on :lol:

    oh, make sure you get Shimano compatable gear cables as they are different from Campy ones. You should be able to tell the difference between brake and gear cables as the brake cables are slightly thicker.
    SC61.10a: FCN 3, with clip-on guards for winter
    Uncle John: FCN ?? knobblies, or 'fat' slicks n guards

    If you haven't tried these things, you should.
    These things are fun, and fun is good.
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