Didn't go below 102 RPM today!

Bhima

:shock: Super-high cadence training for me today!

Min cadence - 102
Max cadence - 214
Miles: 34.7 (without stopping)

Started the cadence monitor while at 20mph so I could know the lowest cadence - it's usually 0 when you stop.

Legs feel great - although I was out of breath 2 miles in...

I'd recommend this to anyone - it really makes you breathe... HARD

Going at 120rpm-ish, I beat my best time on my favourite climb! ........By 15 seconds! :shock: Could have done the climb twice, it felt so good! Overtook a whole peloton of guys on the climb while pedaling away like a crazy robot and one shouted "who do you think you are? Lance Armstrong?"


So, if I understand it right:

Higher cadence = Low strain on muscles per crank revolution & High strain on cardiovascular system per crank revolution

Lower cadence = High strain on muscles per crank revolution & Low strain on cardiovascular system per crank revolution

Correct? It certainly feels that way.

To find the most efficient cadence for yourself, would it involve trying to balance these perfectly - so that you create an equal strain on muscles & breathing?

shockedsoshocked

To find the most efficient cadence for yourself you'd probably have to do a whole bank of controlled tests.

I think cadence for the most part is a natural thing. I'm equally at home spinning or grinding, and both have their uses. It's OK pedalling the small gears (especially at the start of races) but there comes a point when you need to be able to stick it in the 12 or 11 and push.

Bhima

Yes, of course. I'm not, for one minute, saying you should spin fast 100% of the time. I just forced myself to do it as a test - and to try and extend my range a bit.

As much as I agree with you about just shifting up and putting the hammer down sometimes, today I put the hammer down at 120 RPM and then upshifted a gear at a time at the latest possible time (around 120 each time) and was suprised when I got to 33mph and my legs didn't hurt. I still love those MASSIVE-gear, lactic-acid-filled efforts, so they're not getting thrown out of the window just yet, although the high-cadence stuff has been quite an education/insight into how my body works! :shock:

I guess an experienced cyclist would know how to judge which cadence to use depending on the tactics for a particular part of a race (breakaways, sprints, climbs, etc...). :!:

DomPro

You just realised this? High cadence is the only way to pedal man. Grinding is for fatties.

Alex_Simmons/RST

ShockedSoShocked wrote:

To find the most efficient cadence for yourself you'd probably have to do a whole bank of controlled tests.

I think cadence for the most part is a natural thing. I'm equally at home spinning or grinding, and both have their uses. It's OK pedalling the small gears (especially at the start of races) but there comes a point when you need to be able to stick it in the 12 or 11 and push.

Just to emphasise this point....

As soon as any of the following items change, then "optimal cadence" changes:
- rider's fitness
- rider's fatigue level
- the power one is riding at
- environmental conditions
- terrain
- road conditions and tyres
- type of event
- gearing choices on bike
- type of bike and equipment
- bike fit
- crank length
etc etc etc

IOW there is no "optimal cadence" - just get on and pedal and choose a gear that's suitable and feels right for the situation. And being able to operate effectively over a wide range of pedal speeds is handy at times.

And that's for "optimal" - IOW the most effective choice.

As to the most "efficient" well you can test for that but it would be so low that most would not choose to ride at the most efficient cadence. It is usually <60rpm. Pedal rate efficiency is not usually a consideration in cycling.

shockedsoshocked

Alex_Simmons/RST wrote:

ShockedSoShocked wrote:

To find the most efficient cadence for yourself you'd probably have to do a whole bank of controlled tests.

I think cadence for the most part is a natural thing. I'm equally at home spinning or grinding, and both have their uses. It's OK pedalling the small gears (especially at the start of races) but there comes a point when you need to be able to stick it in the 12 or 11 and push.

Just to emphasise this point....

As soon as any of the following items change, then "optimal cadence" changes:
- rider's fitness
- rider's fatigue level
- the power one is riding at
- environmental conditions
- terrain
- road conditions and tyres
- type of event
- gearing choices on bike
- type of bike and equipment
- bike fit
- crank length
etc etc etc

IOW there is no "optimal cadence" - just get on and pedal and choose a gear that's suitable and feels right for the situation. And being able to operate effectively over a wide range of pedal speeds is handy at times.

And that's for "optimal" - IOW the most effective choice.

As to the most "efficient" well you can test for that but it would be so low that most would not choose to ride at the most efficient cadence. It is usually <60rpm. Pedal rate efficiency is not usually a consideration in cycling.

That's what I meant