Very angry
Comments
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Oh, another thing to add is a lot of lightweight race stuff which is dead trendy and which people like to purchase to look the part, as well as because of the great reviews it receives in the press often isn't the best thing to use day in, day out in all weathers. Just bare that in mind when you are choosing what to replace your current rims with, although a good bike shop will advise.0
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Hudster, I don't doubt your own experience, but I think your estimate that this is about right is way different from my own experience! My bikes are 12 and 9 years old and in this time I have probably averaged 6000 miles per year, divided between the 2 bikes, I have only managed to wear out 1 set of rims. The riding has included winter commuting in the worst weather, mountain biking (including lots in the Lake District, with long descents with the brakes grinding gritty wet paste into the rims)and touring. Furthermore, my girfriend bought a budget road bike (Trek 1.2) in the summer and has done a similar mileage to the OP and there is very little sign of wear. It looks virtually new!
It would seem very bizarre to me that a rim could wear out whilst having consumed only one set of brake pads - rims are not made of putty!
The rim wear can easily be established by measuring the rim thickness or if (as suggested above) the rims have a wear indicator groove, checking that.
The OP's LBS even admitted this was not normal!
Wearing out a chain and a set of brake pads in 2K miles, yes, very likely, wearing out the whole drivetrain and a set of rims - very unlikely. They are taking the p*ss!0 -
Come to think of it, at that wear rate I would need 3 sets of rims per year (£450 ish) and three drivetrains (£360 ish) and 3 sets of brake blocks (£30), so my annual cycling costs would be £840...
which would be utterly absurd
No, I don't buy it!0 -
I have a Specialized Tricross, ridden in all weathers. I recently had to replace the rear wheel when the spokes started to go, but the hub was definitely on the way out too, as were the cassette and chain (also replaced). The rims were fine though. The bike had done about 5,000 miles at that point.
Under the sale of goods act, when you buy things they have to be reasonably fit for purpose, there's no time limit, and it's irrelevant what the warranty says. If you've only done 2,000 miles on this bike, particularly in less than a year, I think you've probably got the basis for a claim. A good quality bike should not need this level of attention after that much use. I'd mention this to the LBS and see what they say. If no joy, then it's worth contacting citizens advice to see what they think and perhaps obtain help in drafting a letter of complaint, which should be addressed to the owner of the shop you bought the bike from.0 -
have done 2,000 miles since June and replaced nothing..... not even pads0
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Hi,
I have to echo several peoples sentiments - if the wheels arent great quality, 6 months in bad conditions may be all it needs to see them to the end of their useful life.
I have just had my rear MTB hub die on me after 2500miles and 4 months - almost certainly because it is a cheap effort without sealed bearings (even worse quality than the tiagra hubs which I assume are on your Allez). You have to be prepared to strip and regease your hubs regularly and service/adjust them to get the best lifespan, or just budget for a decent set which will last longer i.e dura-ace as in durability...
Get some quest Como's if you are skint, or Scafells or Fulcrums if you are a bit more flush.0 -
felgen wrote:....I have just had my rear MTB hub die on me after 2500miles and 4 months.....
On-road or offroad use? Cleaned with a pressure-washer or soap and water? I could kind of understand it on a bike with a lot of offroad miles...but not on a road bike and I'd certainly expect the rims to hold up for longer than 2,000 miles.
Anyway, regardless, if you don't ask you don't get...I'd still recommend complaining loudly and citing the sale of goods act.0 -
That was mixed use, but it doesnt help that I am 95 kg and a real hooner (ask my riding mates!), and yes I could have looked after them better as they did get pressure washed (rarely)I was just trying to illustrate that you get what you pay for, and as you rightly say, pressure washing hubs with no seals was asking for it!0
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What kind of riding has it been ? Lots and lots of braking involved ? My fixie is used over six months a year for weekend rides - its eight years old and still on the same brake blocks. The front rim isnt even new cos it was off my old summer bike. Measure the chain with a ruler to see if it has stretched.
I do hose the bike down after a winter ride tho.0 -
The hubs on the original wheels of my Allez were in appalling condition after 2000 miles.
They are Specialized branded hubs and were pitted and full of water when I dismantled them. I suspect that most of the water entered the hubs because I over washed the bike using the garden hose and detergent. I'm now a lot more careful when washing my bikes.
I re-greased the hubs, but soon after replaced the wheels.0 -
percusski wrote:If the bike is only 5 months old all the components should be under warranty for 1 year, so if the 'faults' actually exist take it back to where you bought it and get them to sort it.
Well I reckon it would come under wear and tear in which case it cant be replaced under warrant.
My bike is less than a year old, so is the rims, hubs are going and the rims are going concave, I cant get that done via warranty.0 -
Hi again,
Well I have taken my bike in to be sorted. The manager was very helpful and knowledgeable and suggested that it is probably down to normal wear, considering the time of year, the hilly nature of my riding and the grit on the roads creating a "grinding paste".
However the bike shop are nevertheless going to smarten the wheels up and send them off to warranty, since it was agreed that 5 months is pretty soon for that kind of wear. I was told that if there is a problem I should be sent replacement wheels from Specialized, and if not they will push for a half price reduction in the cost of a replacement.
In the meantime, I chose some new Shimano wheels (WH-R510 I think), which will be fitted along with new brake pads and replacement cables. They will also not be charging for labour so all in all I think they have been very good.
If they do find there was a defect with the original wheels I will be able to keep any replacements spare for future use.
Thanks for all the feedback,
James.0 -
Wait a min, so if my wheels are worn already and it's only been like 6 months and I've done around 4000 miles on them they would be able to warranty them? Bit odd but hope it's true.0
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willhub wrote:Wait a min, so if my wheels are worn already and it's only been like 6 months and I've done around 4000 miles on them they would be able to warranty them? Bit odd but hope it's true.
I was told that the likelihood is that they'll put it down to wear and tear, but my LBS seemed to think it was worth sending them in for assessment anyway. I will update you later in the week on the verdict.0 -
I had a similar experience to dazzawazza with my Tricross. They've got Specialized own-brand hubs, and the rear one was pretty badly trashed after 5,000 miles (but possibly long before that judging by the noticeable difference in performance with my new wheel). But all the more reason to make warranty claims if this sort of thing occurs....they should last more than 2,000 miles, and Specialized either need to up the seal quality or fit better hubs.0
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Will a warn out freehub decrease any sort of performance?0
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jashburnham wrote:make sure you are using proper lube and not something like WD40 (like an Evans store once tried to recommend to me). WD40 is not a lubricant.
WD40 is a lubricant (read the label?). It is pretty much all I have ever used on my chains and it has never given me any transmission problems at all.
While I accept there are more specific chain lubricants available, WD40 and other similar lubes like GT85 are perfectly adequate...0 -
softlad wrote:jashburnham wrote:make sure you are using proper lube and not something like WD40 (like an Evans store once tried to recommend to me). WD40 is not a lubricant.
WD40 is a lubricant (read the label?). It is pretty much all I have ever used on my chains and it has never given me any transmission problems at all.
While I accept there are more specific chain lubricants available, WD40 and other similar lubes like GT85 are perfectly adequate...
WD40 and GT85 are a light lubricant. they work well but they dont last that long. If you are looking at running a Chain on the road then a GT85 lube would work well. But if you hit the rain or a lot of puddles you may well find the lube getting washed off quickly. The price for a Chain lube is a few pounds I would use it just for the longer times it can be run b4 you need to clean and reapply. If you do ever venture off road then GT85 would be washed off the chain by the time you got 500m down the trails at this time of year.Nothing in life can not be improved with either monkeys, pirates or ninjas
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softlad wrote:jashburnham wrote:make sure you are using proper lube and not something like WD40 (like an Evans store once tried to recommend to me). WD40 is not a lubricant.
WD40 is a lubricant (read the label?). It is pretty much all I have ever used on my chains and it has never given me any transmission problems at all.
While I accept there are more specific chain lubricants available, WD40 and other similar lubes like GT85 are perfectly adequate...
Sorry I meant to say "is not a proper lubricant" - it might have slight lubricating properties but it is not a proper lubricant (functions listed are cleaning, lubricating, penetrating stuck metal parts, displacing moisture, and protecting against rust and corrosion). It is more of a solvent than a lube and as such and not something to use in bike parts, especially on the transmission. If anything it will speed wear by thoroughly cleaning the old grease/lube from the parts, leaving them vulnerable to premature wear, so not really adequate. I can't imagine many decent LBS/Pro mechanics would recommend using it.- 2023 Vielo V+1
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jashburnham wrote:It is more of a solvent than a lube and as such and not something to use in bike parts, especially on the transmission. If anything it will speed wear by thoroughly cleaning the old grease/lube from the parts, leaving them vulnerable to premature wear, so not really adequate. I can't imagine many decent LBS/Pro mechanics would recommend using it.
I recall a couple of pro teams using GT85 as a chain lube a few years back - but you must use whatever you think works. Like I said, I've been using WD on transmissions for about 20 years now and I've always had good performance and never had any issues with premature wear of any drivetrain components...0 -
***UPDATE***
I called in at my LBS this afternoon. Specialized have had a look at the rims and agreed they shouldn't have worn so quickly -- credited my account at the shop with £75 towards new rims 8)0 -
Wow, that's good of specialized! Obviously there is hope for customer service.0
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winter beast: http://i497.photobucket.com/albums/rr34 ... uff016.jpg
Summer beast; http://i497.photobucket.com/albums/rr34 ... uff015.jpg0 -
STEFANOS4784 wrote:
I use WD40, its brilliant at undoing rusty nuts, bolts, screws on gates and the like. But to use it on a bike is sacrilege surely. Or at least laziness :twisted:0 -
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WD40 is NOT a lubricant. It's a releasing agent.
I wouldn't use it on any of my chains.0 -
My current large bottle of Finish Line lube I bought in 2001 for £6 - I have 6 bikes and regularly service others. A can of WD40 costs £2-3 and about a year - go figure. It's good for cleaning chains, but is a cr@p lubricant as it contains only a little mineral oil. You can tell people who use the stuff by the annoying squeak from their transmission and the rattle of the sloppy chain on the cassette.Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..0
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Monty Dog wrote:You can tell people who use the stuff by the annoying squeak from their transmission and the rattle of the sloppy chain on the cassette.
bit of a generalisation there. none of my transmissions squeak or rattle - maybe I'm not using it correctly..?
it even gets used on my motocross chains (been using it for the last 32 years on MXers) - again I have had no issues with premature chain wear or poor performance.
There are certainly more specific chain lubes out there and I am not trying to convince anyone to use it - but please don't tell me that WD does not work as a lube - because it patently does.0
