Using Powertap wireless hub
lastmohican
Posts: 7
I'm thinking of investing in a Powertap wireless hub. I've heard that it is a very useful training aid. Is it easy to maintain - in particular changing the batteries in the hub?
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GET ONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Best cycling thingy I ever bought (except for my bike of course!)
Dead easy to change batteries, you just remove the wheel, unscrew the cap on the hub using the provided turny-roundy tool and the two little batteries are in there clipped in. Just unclip, remove and replace. Would take around one minute to do total...
A doddle!0 -
What's all this about remembering to zero things or you end with rubbish all about? Is it much of a hassle to use or does it all become automatic.0
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piece of cake. the computer head unit takes 1xCR2032 watch batterries, you just need a 2p piece to undo the battery compartment. the hub uses its own whacky plastic spanner (which is supplied) and takes 2x 357.
To replace them takes seconds not minutes. unlike SRM or Polar where you send it back to the manufacturer.--
Obsessed is just a word elephants use to describe the dedicated. http://markliversedge.blogspot.com0 -
When you're coasting with no pressure on the pedals, the power reading should (of course) be zero. If it's not, you need to zero it, which is simply a couple of button presses while you are coasting and your power is zero. No big deal.
Having said that I've had my PT for 3 months and quite a few rides and I haven't had to do this.Le Blaireau (1)0 -
liversedge wrote:piece of cake. the computer head unit takes 1xCR2032 watch batterries, you just need a 2p piece to undo the battery compartment. the hub uses its own whacky plastic spanner (which is supplied) and takes 2x 357.
To replace them takes seconds not minutes. unlike SRM or Polar where you send it back to the manufacturer.
The new Polar's don't as they have a seperate battery pack which takes ordinary aa batteries
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DaveyL wrote:When you're coasting with no pressure on the pedals, the power reading should (of course) be zero. If it's not, you need to zero it, which is simply a couple of button presses while you are coasting and your power is zero. No big deal.
Having said that I've had my PT for 3 months and quite a few rides and I haven't had to do this.
Ahh sounds simple enough then.0 -
doyler78 wrote:liversedge wrote:piece of cake. the computer head unit takes 1xCR2032 watch batterries, you just need a 2p piece to undo the battery compartment. the hub uses its own whacky plastic spanner (which is supplied) and takes 2x 357.
To replace them takes seconds not minutes. unlike SRM or Polar where you send it back to the manufacturer.
The new Polar's don't as they have a seperate battery pack which takes ordinary aa batteries
Cool - can you still use the watch for swimming?--
Obsessed is just a word elephants use to describe the dedicated. http://markliversedge.blogspot.com0 -
I've not had to zero my PT yet either...0
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liversedge wrote:doyler78 wrote:liversedge wrote:piece of cake. the computer head unit takes 1xCR2032 watch batterries, you just need a 2p piece to undo the battery compartment. the hub uses its own whacky plastic spanner (which is supplied) and takes 2x 357.
To replace them takes seconds not minutes. unlike SRM or Polar where you send it back to the manufacturer.
The new Polar's don't as they have a seperate battery pack which takes ordinary aa batteries
Cool - can you still use the watch for swimming?
Nahh the CS600 works 2.4ghz which apparently doesn't transmit in water. The older s725x is the best for triathaletes however the power module is more fiddly and less accurate (not that the CS600 is the zen of accuracy) however it is more reliable in water for hrm functions - just don't press the buttons under water as that breaks the water seal.
Have to say my s710i which I bought 4 years ago let steam in when I was in the gym a few months back. I sent it back explaining that I had always got the watch serviced by them so that they could ensure the water integrity. They sent me a brand new s725x. Was delighted. That's what I call customer service.
I'm on my second power module as the first was useless. Kept cutting out after a few miles. Have been running the new one for a month now and it seems to be running consistently and I have no problems with dropouts. How accurate it is - we'll I just don't know. I'm thinking of hiring a powertap 2.4 sl a) to really calibrate my polar with & b) with a view to purchasing one of these later on in the year should I find training with power to be to my liking.0 -
Do you generally ask for the Powertap as part of a wheel build?
Im getting interested in buying one. I have a turbo with powermeter which has greatly helped my training. I'd like to get one for outdoor use but aside from the cost I wouldn't have a clue as how to rig it up. I'd need it all assembled into the wheel for me.0 -
garetjax wrote:Do you generally ask for the Powertap as part of a wheel build?
Im getting interested in buying one. I have a turbo with powermeter which has greatly helped my training. I'd like to get one for outdoor use but aside from the cost I wouldn't have a clue as how to rig it up. I'd need it all assembled into the wheel for me.
The powertap hubs can come already built into the wheel or you can buy the powertap hub and have the wheel of choice built using it. The choice is yours.0 -
Thanks for all the feedback.
I know what a CR2032 is but what is a 357?0 -
Should have said that if you do get someone to build the wheel for you then make sure they know how to deal with a powertap hub as they have specific instructions as to how the wheel should be built or else the warranty is invalidated however any decent wheelbuilder these days I would expect would be familiar with powertaps.0
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lastmohican wrote:Thanks for all the feedback.
I know what a CR2032 is but what is a 357?
You can get them here:
http://www.cyclepowermeters.com/357--sr ... -374-p.asp0 -
6 weeks would be very heavy use! I used mine* for well over 3000 miles and didn't change the batteries once.
* I jumped to SRM at Christmas--
Obsessed is just a word elephants use to describe the dedicated. http://markliversedge.blogspot.com0 -
Great! Does the Powertap also come with a chest-strap that has easily replaceable batteries?0
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Yes!0
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I got my Powertap SL with an Open Pro build, including all the gubbins like chest strap, head unit and everything from Cyclepowermeters.com for £600.
The wheel was perfect as was their customer service (I think, from speaking with them, they are a small family business).
I would highly recommend them.0 -
liversedge wrote:6 weeks would be very heavy use! I used mine* for well over 3000 miles and didn't change the batteries once.
* I jumped to SRM at Christmas
Santa was very good to you. Do you notice much difference between the two other than the fact you are now stuck to one bike.0 -
The reason I went for PT over SRM was not only the cost but the fact I can easily use it on all three of my road bikes, the 2 extra mounting kits were £80 each.0
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doyler78 wrote:liversedge wrote:6 weeks would be very heavy use! I used mine* for well over 3000 miles and didn't change the batteries once.
* I jumped to SRM at Christmas
Santa was very good to you. Do you notice much difference between the two other than the fact you are now stuck to one bike.
The biggest difference has been weight because I can use my fancy wheels. I can now also use them on the turbo without shredding tyres. I do like the fact that the power number doesn't jump about so much without having to smoot it over a few seconds. Being able to use an edge 705 has been great for capturing altitude and playing with maps but now the PT has gone ANT+ its no different.
Having to remember to put my bike outside for half an hour to acclimatise has been tricky to remember and zeroing at the start of every ride has become a habit now. Shame my Computrainer is relegated to being a very expensive resistance unit - so I've shelled out for some ergvideos to make it more interesting.--
Obsessed is just a word elephants use to describe the dedicated. http://markliversedge.blogspot.com0 -
liversedge wrote:doyler78 wrote:liversedge wrote:6 weeks would be very heavy use! I used mine* for well over 3000 miles and didn't change the batteries once.
* I jumped to SRM at Christmas
Santa was very good to you. Do you notice much difference between the two other than the fact you are now stuck to one bike.
Biggest difference has been weight cause can use my fancy wheels at last and can now use on the turbo without shredding tyres. Bbeing able to use an edge 705 but now the PT has gone ANT+ its no different.
The wheel issue seems to be the most common reason I've seen given for people opting for SRM. Interested as to know why using SRM means you don't shred the tyres on your wheels. I'm sure it's something simple.0 -
cause I was too lazy to swap the turbo tyre on the PT wheel. I ended up using a spare wheel with an orange conti turbo tyre on the turbo and not the PT.
basically I'm an idle get!
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Obsessed is just a word elephants use to describe the dedicated. http://markliversedge.blogspot.com0 -
The SRM is also supposed to be more accurate than the PT, however as long as the numbers are consistent than it's not really a problem. Plus, the PT doesn't need adjusting for Drivetrain Efficiency.
Ideally I'd have an SRM on each of my bikes
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liversedge wrote:cause I was too lazy to swap the turbo tyre on the PT wheel. I ended up using a spare wheel with an orange conti turbo tyre on the turbo and not the PT.
basically I'm an idle get!
:oops: now there's something I hadn't considered - I doubt I could be bothered with all that faffing around - akin to a puncture everytime I want to use the turbo :shock: :shock:
Now that does make me reconsider powertap - that really could be a killer for me. I will be hiring before I buy anyway just to see how I like so I guess I will soon know if it is going to be a problem or not but as I see it will be
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Well, you could look at it as good practice for changing tyres when you puncture!
Alternatively, after a few rides on the turbo with the PT, you may be able to "calibrate" it so you know that at X rpm in a particular gear, you are doing Y number of Watts (given a consistent tyre pressure). If you only do a limited set of turbo workouts (e.g. an hour at constant power for tempo, short and long intervals like 4 min and 20 min for development) then you should be able to replicate them on a normal wheel.
Having said that, you don't then get the satisfaction of uploading the data to WKO+!Le Blaireau (1)0 -
I use the same Bontrager Race X Lite tyre for both road and turbo, seems to be working OK so far but I'm aware it will wear out much sooner than normal .0
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While you should send an SRM back to the service centre for a battery replacement, it should be noted that this isn't generally required all that often (once every few years maybe). Some do it every two years. I have SRMs much older than that and the batteries are fine.liversedge wrote:piece of cake. the computer head unit takes 1xCR2032 watch batterries, you just need a 2p piece to undo the battery compartment. the hub uses its own whacky plastic spanner (which is supplied) and takes 2x 357.
To replace them takes seconds not minutes. unlike SRM or Polar where you send it back to the manufacturer.
The battery in the CPU is rechargeable.0 -
That's not the case.NapoleonD wrote:The SRM is also supposed to be more accurate than the PT, however as long as the numbers are consistent than it's not really a problem.
They are about equivalent in terms of accuracy.
PTs are rated to be +/- 1.5%
SRM Professionals/track +/- 2%
SRM Amateur +/- 5%
Only the SRM Science model at +/- 0.5% IIRC is more accurate than a PT.
It should be noted that while rated with the above accuracy levels, the PTs and SRMs are generally pretty precise as well. IOW if your particular PT is out by -1%, it will generally stay that way and not fluctuate from -1.5% to +1.5% day to day.
Also, while the calibration of both PT and SRM power meters can be checked, only the SRM allows you to change the calibration setting if needed. If a PT moves outside the calibration range, it would need to be returned for service.
While it is true that one measures power upstream (crank) and the other downstream (hub), measuring at each location has its advantages.NapoleonD wrote:Plus, the PT doesn't need adjusting for Drivetrain Efficiency.
Ideally I'd have an SRM on each of my bikes
In reality, the difference is typically pretty stable on a given bike and is usually ~2-3% (typical drivetrain efficiency & an SRM should read higher). So in effect, it makes no difference for the normal training purposes of using a power meter.
It's only really relevant when you:
- start to pull apart the numbers to analyse things like aerodynamics and rolling resistance that one needs to consider this (and it is SRM data that needs to be adjusted, not PT); or
- use multiple meters and are seekign consistency, or
- change power meter brand and want to align your performance data history.0 -
Cheers for that Alex!
I am very happy with my PT and it seems to do all I'll ever need (I thought that about my HRM a few years ago though!).
It's a shame both PT and SRM have their downsides
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