Project 'A' - photos and questions!

UnworthyPapaLazaru

I think I had mentioned previously on this forum that I was going to do up and convert a bike to a ss/fixie. I had a bike but it had 26" wheels so the idea was quickly ditched.

Today I got a new bike to convert...Its a Peugeot 12 speed (it has ten) racer.



It has girlie bike like handle bars on it and I like them (also got a set of drops included)



The bike is perfectly ridable as it is, which is a good thing as i understand that French built bikes have weird threads etc. I should be able to make do with what I have bar a few bits and bobs. Thats where my questions start!

The Chainring. Its pretty big, 52t. Will I be able to buy off the shelf for this?



Wheels/Drop out - Im pretty sure its ok for conversion, can one of the resident mechs confirm??



I'll have more questions no doubt. Enjoy some more 'before' photos!





This rust patch wont be a problem will it?

cjcp

Do you need one of those chain tensioners?

UnworthyPapaLazaru

cjcp wrote:

Do you need one of those chain tensioners?

Mmm, not sure. i thought not due to the type of drop out???

cjcp

Now you know why I don't have a SS!

UnworthyPapaLazaru

cjcp wrote:

Now you know why I don't have a SS!

...and why this project may never finish!!

Bassjunkieuk

That frame looks remarkably similar to the one on the old Raleigh road bike I acquired!
Having said that it might just be because it looks like a standard bike and is white :-)

I also have dreams (plans would imply I'd be able to do it...) to turn that old thing into a SS/fixie winter hack. At the moment it's buried in the shed and last time I rode it I was scared stiff my the riding position! I hadn't realized how spacey my newer bike was :-)

Good luck with it tho and keep us posted on the progress!

itboffin

You could just remove the rear dérailleur and one of the chainrings, take a few links out of the chain and there you have it a fully working single speed.

Not pretty but very functional and no cost, if I could just work out how to take apart my old freewheels bodies I'd have done that instead.

UnworthyPapaLazaru

itboffin wrote:

You could just remove the rear dérailleur and one of the chainrings, take a few links out of the chain and there you have it a fully working single speed.

Not pretty but very functional and no cost, if I could just work out how to take apart my old freewheels bodies I'd have done that instead.

Its a possibility.

I am going to do some investagitive research into spacing and in particular the crank and BB.

Most cranks can be undone using an alan key, but this one being old and French, is undone using a bolt.

If I cannot swap or re-use these with a new single chainring I may abandon task.

The next problem area and my next question is regarding wheels. The spacing in the Dropouts appears to be 120mm, will I be able to get a pair of new 700c wheels with a single cog on the back and just use my old axle to secure it?

robbarker

Perfect fixie fodder. 120mm is the standard track rear spacing, so get hold of a rear track wheel which will be threaded for a fixed cog and lockring. Either that or rebuild the rear with a gorgeous Goldtech track hub from HubJub.

The dropout will offer some front-back adjustment but you may have to play around with your cog size to get it just right. Personally I'd take the inner ring off your chainset and use the 52 with a 19 ish tooth rear cog. The chainline needs to be about 42-45mm from the centreline of the bike for it to work OK with a track rear.

Those bars are very girle but will work fine. better still use the drops upside down and saw the drop bits off leaving a bit of upturned bullhorn curve to take the brake levers.

The rust shouldn't be an issue but it would be worth spraying the frame inside and over the outer corrosion with ACF 50.

Finally, be very careful when working on the bike, particulalry as you use a workstand. Fixies have a nasty habit of taking off the fingers of careless mechanics!

UnworthyPapaLazaru

robbarker wrote:

Perfect fixie fodder. 120mm is the standard track rear spacing, so get hold of a rear track wheel which will be threaded for a fixed cog and lockring. Either that or rebuild the rear with a gorgeous Goldtech track hub from HubJub.

The dropout will offer some front-back adjustment but you may have to play around with your cog size to get it just right. Personally I'd take the inner ring off your chainset and use the 52 with a 19 ish tooth rear cog. The chainline needs to be about 42-45mm from the centreline of the bike for it to work OK with a track rear.

Those bars are very girle but will work fine. better still use the drops upside down and saw the drop bits off leaving a bit of upturned bullhorn curve to take the brake levers.

The rust shouldn't be an issue but it would be worth spraying the frame inside and over the outer corrosion with ACF 50.!!

Cheers

Finally, be very careful when working on the bike, particulalry as you use a workstand. Fixies have a nasty habit of taking off the fingers of careless mechanics!

Rob

Thanks for the response. I have an eye on a new set of wheels off ebay, dunno if they are value for money or not. What do you reckon? From what I gather it is a flip flop hub.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0356715665

I think i may do as suggested and just take off the inner chainring. You mention the centre line. What is that? If it is from the centre of the down tube to the line of the chainring it is measuring about (very crudely mind!) about 50mm. Do you think this will be a problem?

Im away to google 'ACF 50'!!

UnworthyPapaLazaru

The gears are off...



...and I intend on putting the drop bars on today. Can anyone offer a reasonable suggestion on how the hell I get these brake levers off?!? There doesnt seem to be any bolts. Photos of front and back below.

neiltb

remove cable, pull lever and look inside, the bolt to tighten the band will be in there.

grip will have to come off but yourr changing the bars anyway

redvee

Undo the brake cable and pull them out of the lever body and look inside for a slotted screw, the clamp going inside the lever body is a big clue.

UnworthyPapaLazaru

Thank you both

UnworthyPapaLazaru

Brakes removed, Cheers!

Next!

Bloody crank arms. I have the correct tool. I screw it in th the arm then thurn the thing that should pop it out. SHOULD. I can not get it to turn enough to remove the arm. Would a little WD40 overnight be any good in helping lossening it off or could that do more harm that good?

redvee

That should work what you are doing but obviously something isn't right. You have undone the crank bolt ? 14/15mm thinwall socket. Take the 'pusher' rod out of the crank extractor tool when you screw it into the cranks and make sure it is seated well and squarely, older cranks have a habit of shedding their threads. Use a big jussie to wind the tool in with, leverage might be the issue.

UnworthyPapaLazaru

Thank you Redvee, the bolt is removed!!

Threads seem to be ok as the extractor tool goes in ok. The pusher just isnt pushing enough. I'll give it a little WD40 tomorrow.

redvee

Might be the extractor is going down the bolt hole just enough to stop it giving any proper purchase on the axle.

Is it a bolted axle or nutted?

UnworthyPapaLazaru

Cheers redvee

Its a 14mm bolt. The tool isnt of Park quality and isnt very long. It is quite difficult to get any purchase on it. I'll try a little WD40 tonight.

UnworthyPapaLazaru

NEXT DAFT QUESTION

I have identified these wheels

On-One 120mm spaced track wheels
Stock: Lots
View More Details »

http://www.planet-x-warehouse.co.uk/aca ... heels.html

120mm spacing is the rear wheel and that is what I need, but is the front wheel a standard size too?

I also take it they are 700c???

robbarker

They should be fine - just the job in fact. SJS have track wheels for the same price but I'd go for the on-ones.

Sorry I missed your reply to my earlier post - the ebay wheels look OK but were a bit of an unknown quantity.

robbarker

cjcp wrote:

Do you need one of those chain tensioners?

Missed this.

You can't use any sort of chain tensioner with a fixie, only a singlespeed with a freewheel.

robbarker

UnworthyPapaLazaru wrote:

. You mention the centre line. What is that? If it is from the centre of the down tube to the line of the chainring it is measuring about (very crudely mind!) about 50mm. Do you think this will be a problem?

Missed this bit too!

Yes - measure centre line of bike to chainring. 50mm is too much but wait until you have your rear hub with a sprocket mounted then measure that. Most track hubs give about 42mm, my Goldtechs are 45mm. The solution is a shorter bottom bracket axle. A new BB won't be a bad idea anyway on a bike this age - a Shimano UN54 will do the job nicely. You'll probably need a 68mm shell width, 107, 110mm or 113mm axle from experience, but do measure it properly and accurately before shelling out! You also need to check that your planned chainset (allow for a chain) will not foul the frame tubes, and what thread your BB shell is, which for this bike is 99% certainly english. If the BB shell has Cinelli stamped on it, it may be italian though...

UnworthyPapaLazaru

robbarker wrote:

UnworthyPapaLazaru wrote:

. You mention the centre line. What is that? If it is from the centre of the down tube to the line of the chainring it is measuring about (very crudely mind!) about 50mm. Do you think this will be a problem?

Missed this bit too!

Yes - measure centre line of bike to chainring. 50mm is too much but wait until you have your rear hub with a sprocket mounted then measure that. Most track hubs give about 42mm, my Goldtechs are 45mm. The solution is a shorter bottom bracket axle. A new BB won't be a bad idea anyway on a bike this age - a Shimano UN54 will do the job nicely. You'll probably need a 68mm shell width, 107, 110mm or 113mm axle from experience, but do measure it properly and accurately before shelling out! You also need to check that your planned chainset (allow for a chain) will not foul the frame tubes, and what thread your BB shell is, which for this bike is 99% certainly english. If the BB shell has Cinelli stamped on it, it may be italian though...

Rob

Thanks for all the replies! I'll have to study the BB one!!!

UnworthyPapaLazaru

redvee wrote:

Might be the extractor is going down the bolt hole just enough to stop it giving any proper purchase on the axle.

Is it a bolted axle or nutted?

The WD40 wworked. Both cranks removed! (but now the tool is stuck in the crank!!!)

UnworthyPapaLazaru

I have spent the entire evening trying to undo the above and trying to undo a threaded head set to regrease with very little joy (got it half off). My hands a red raw!!!!!!!!

robbarker

UnworthyPapaLazaru wrote:

I have spent the entire evening trying to undo the above and trying to undo a threaded head set to regrease with very little joy (got it half off). My hands a red raw!!!!!!!!

You need proper headset spanners to avoid driving yourself to distraction for this task. LBS job unless you want to drive over the bridge and use the workshop here.

UnworthyPapaLazaru

robbarker wrote:

UnworthyPapaLazaru wrote:

I have spent the entire evening trying to undo the above and trying to undo a threaded head set to regrease with very little joy (got it half off). My hands a red raw!!!!!!!!

You need proper headset spanners to avoid driving yourself to distraction for this task. LBS job unless you want to drive over the bridge and use the workshop here.

I have some spanners and removed the locking part ok, it was the curved bolt underneath that that has stuck 9that holds the beearings in place). I did manage to get it half way so I hope its not a knackered thread and it s just a lack of strength in my red and blistered hands!

One more try tonight then its LBS. My wheels should arrive today so i will know a little more about my chain line and whether a new BB is required. I might just get the LBS to do both...

UnworthyPapaLazaru

Thread is knackered but I can still use going downwards no probs and using a bit of force upwards.

New wheels arrived today, and I can tell that my chain line is going to be a problem with my current BB, so a new one is required but I think i will leave that to the LBS.

UnworthyPapaLazaru

This thread is turning out to be more questions than photos! I really appreciate the help. And with that, Im on to my next question (Where are you Rob!)...

Threaded headset. I noticed that my headset felt a bit 'gritty' when turning it so I striped, cleaned and regreased it last night. It has made practicaly no difference. It is almost like it 'clicks' round. The bearings and cups looked fine to me, no noticabe pitting. I did notice however, that on the bicycle tutor video re: threaded headsets that they used two lock nuts to secure it where as my one only has a single. Would this be making a difference?

Im heading to the LBS in the next few days to get a new BB fitted to solve my chainline problem, so If I cant fix this I will ask him to have a look. This project is costing a fortune!!!

redvee

Clicky headset aka indexed steering another Shimano improvement to cycling Seriously this means new bearings as there is some crap in the old ones as you now know, gonna cost £2 for new bearings. If that doesn't sort ti then a new headset unfortunatley