Preparing for Winter riding
Kieran_Burns
Posts: 9,757
I could really do with some clear (read: simple!) advice and guidance for Winter wear when commuting.
I'm presently catching the train in and cycling home, some 14-15 miles. It's a mix of urban, cycle path, suburban, bridle way then finally country road.
I've fitted 32c tyres to my road bike (700c) and fitted crud mudguards to make it into a commuter (48/34 crank and 11-32 (I think) cassette), flat bar with 'cruising bars'
All well and good. I'm buying the cat-eye single shot plus for the bridleway and have a 1/2 watt LED for lit roads. I'm also getting the cat eye 10 led for the rear visibility.
Clothing I have the altura cropton for warm wet days, got a cycle helmet, cycle shorts and baggies (well okay: cotton shorts), plus some tights for colder / wetter days. I'm going to buy the Altura nightvision for the proper winter weather and have thinsulate cycle gloves (altura again). I only tend to wear a cotton t-shirt with a hi-vis top in normal commuting (with the shorts!) and light weight full finger golves.
I've got shimano spds to go with the semi-cleated pedals...
Question is: what else do I need? I'm worried about the cold and water on my feet and legs, plus do I need any more face protection from the cold? What about over-shoes or over trousers? Clearly the top half is sorted for protection, but what about underneath (first layer)
I've never commuted in the autumn / winter before so a complete idiots guide would be really appreciated.
Do you think it is more sensible to go with a rucksack or bit the bullet and get panniers?
I'm presently catching the train in and cycling home, some 14-15 miles. It's a mix of urban, cycle path, suburban, bridle way then finally country road.
I've fitted 32c tyres to my road bike (700c) and fitted crud mudguards to make it into a commuter (48/34 crank and 11-32 (I think) cassette), flat bar with 'cruising bars'
All well and good. I'm buying the cat-eye single shot plus for the bridleway and have a 1/2 watt LED for lit roads. I'm also getting the cat eye 10 led for the rear visibility.
Clothing I have the altura cropton for warm wet days, got a cycle helmet, cycle shorts and baggies (well okay: cotton shorts), plus some tights for colder / wetter days. I'm going to buy the Altura nightvision for the proper winter weather and have thinsulate cycle gloves (altura again). I only tend to wear a cotton t-shirt with a hi-vis top in normal commuting (with the shorts!) and light weight full finger golves.
I've got shimano spds to go with the semi-cleated pedals...
Question is: what else do I need? I'm worried about the cold and water on my feet and legs, plus do I need any more face protection from the cold? What about over-shoes or over trousers? Clearly the top half is sorted for protection, but what about underneath (first layer)
I've never commuted in the autumn / winter before so a complete idiots guide would be really appreciated.
Do you think it is more sensible to go with a rucksack or bit the bullet and get panniers?
Chunky Cyclists need your love too! :-)
2009 Specialized Tricross Sport
2011 Trek Madone 4.5
2012 Felt F65X
Proud CX Pervert and quiet roadie. 12 mile commuter
2009 Specialized Tricross Sport
2011 Trek Madone 4.5
2012 Felt F65X
Proud CX Pervert and quiet roadie. 12 mile commuter
0
Comments
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I would get panniers, overshoes and something for the ears when it is really cold. If you get panniers reckon on wearing another base layer as you will no longer have the rucksack to keep you warm.
Most important thing about winter commuting is to enjoy it as much as you do the rest of the year. There is nothing better than a crips & clear winter's day.
(ok.....maybe a sunny summer's day wins!)0 -
Actually, I love those crisp blue skies when wrapped up warm 8)
Forgot about the ears, good point that... nothing extra for the legs then - the tights will be enough? What do you suggest for the ears? one of those head warmer things?
Panniers, I always think they'll over balance the bike for some reason - I guess I just have a natural aversion to them :roll: Mind you, my back has been dripping wet under the rucksack every day these last two weeks...Chunky Cyclists need your love too! :-)
2009 Specialized Tricross Sport
2011 Trek Madone 4.5
2012 Felt F65X
Proud CX Pervert and quiet roadie. 12 mile commuter0 -
What does anyone feel about riding with SPDs in the winter? You'll be more likely to slip on ice/mud and need to pull your foot out in a hurry. And when you do get your foot down there's not really that much grip on the soles anyway (I have MTB shoes with rubber tread but the rubber compound isn't that grippy on wet tarmac). Is this a recipe for disaster?
This is going to be my first winter commuting on a road bike (MTB last year). Would it be prudent to get wider tyres for winter or will 23s suffice?Bianchi Via Nirone Veloce/Centaur 20100 -
my shoes have the recessed cleats in them, and a full tread grip - they look just like trainers but sound like I have segs when walking
Oh, just added a skull cap to the shopping list... anyone got a discount code for Cycleexpress?Chunky Cyclists need your love too! :-)
2009 Specialized Tricross Sport
2011 Trek Madone 4.5
2012 Felt F65X
Proud CX Pervert and quiet roadie. 12 mile commuter0 -
I'd suggest you consider that if you stop cycling you'll be warm and sweating a little, after 15 minutes in a wind at 0C you'll be close to hypothermic if you are not dressed in windproofs that can keep you warm. On an isolated path you could pass out and no-one would know you are there. So dressing for the potential conditions it is slightly critical. After all you wouldn't go hill walking in a blizzard if you weren't prepared would you?
Overtrousers definitely a must, be sure to get something that won't go into the chain and which won't get sticky/wet feeling in the rain. I've spent far too much on not-quite cycling gear sold by the local cycle shop I used to go to which wasn't really appropriate. I now use Pearl Izumi Amfib leggings, which kept me warm enough last winter, and a amfib jacket as well. Expensive but worth it.
Overshoes also definitely a must, your feet will freeze particularly if you are caught in cold rain. Even puddle splashing can leave your feet soaked through, not fun getting that in the morning and then having to wear the shoes home again.
As noted I'd recommend a warm hat that will go under a helmet, there are numerous around. On a really cold day you'll potentially pass out if you get too cold in the head, with heat loss and windchill. Maybe you'd need a balaclava type hood for really cold days, though I don't use mine that often I need it when it goes below 3C.
Layering with all clothing is usually the key approach, I'd have seperate clothing (jersey's anyway) for going in and coming home, and especially layers for gloves etc. If you get too warm you can always take one off, if your too cold and don't have it, the pain of freezing fingers and toes is like having hit them with a hammer, which is to say not fun. Extra may turn it from unbearable to a mildy unpleasant experience.
A point I'd make also is if you're on an isolated route and you have a flat, you'll be stopped fixing it in the dark. I mount a light on helmet for such cases so can change a tube without having to hold a torch in my mouth.'Twas Mulga Bill, from Eaglehawk, that caught the cycling craze....0 -
...and now over shoes added to the list
Hokay... over trousers and I think that's me done. I'll list what I'm thinking of buying in a sec, so you can critique me if that's okay?
(and thanks for the comments so far!)Chunky Cyclists need your love too! :-)
2009 Specialized Tricross Sport
2011 Trek Madone 4.5
2012 Felt F65X
Proud CX Pervert and quiet roadie. 12 mile commuter0 -
Holy Cow. I'm spending some money!
EL610RC Single Shot Plus Rechargeable Front Light - EL610RC Single Shot
1 x £77.70
TL-LD 1100 Rear Light - TL-LD 1100 Rear Light
1 x £19.99
Night Vision Waterproof Jacket - Yellow - Large 41-43 Chest
1 x £48.75
Dryline Waterproof Shorts - X-large - 35.5-38 Waist
1 x £42.50
White Lightning Trigger Chain Cleaner - Trigger Chain Cleaner
1 x £19.99
Neostream Overshoe - Large (11-13)
1 x £16.99
Lusso Breathe Balaclava - Lusso Breathe Balaclava - Large
1 x £9.99
Night Vision Waterproof Trousers - Large - 33 - 35" Waist
1 x £38.75
Comments about waist size NOT welcome :oops:
Got a few other bits and bobs in there (oh and i get a 10% discount on that lot)Chunky Cyclists need your love too! :-)
2009 Specialized Tricross Sport
2011 Trek Madone 4.5
2012 Felt F65X
Proud CX Pervert and quiet roadie. 12 mile commuter0 -
Skull cap for under your helmet Polaris and Lusso make them. Overshoes, so many so little time. Good windproof kit makes all the difference
Personally; Swear by my goretex wind/waterproof gloves, Polaris Merino wool socks. Adidas windproof longs and depending on the temperature Polaris Vortex jacket or Polaris Niterider. I do hope the new Nightrider 2 is as good as the stitching has given up after 2 winters abuse.Neil
Help I'm Being Oppressed0 -
Fit the best mudgaurds you can, preferably full length, bolt-on style such as SKS chromoplastic. MTB style ones dont provide as much protection from mucky spray.
I had good luck with sealskin socks last winter, kept me warm and dry. I always use woolen socks underneath. You may need a looser fit shoe or boot for winter riding.
A neck tube/buff is essential for sealing or venting at the neck. Also doubles as an ear-warmer and balaclava on cold nights. Proper balaclavas are for sub-zero riding.
I have tried all kinds of gloves but waterproof ones get too sweaty and thin, fleecy ones too cold. Wool ones are comfortable in most conditions but take ages to dry out.
Wicking inner layers are more important in winter than summer. Any synthetic will do the job but Merino wool feels much nicer and doesn't get stinky. I try to avoid cycling-specific layers, the rear pockets are useless and stack up uncomfortably.
I use old woolen jumpers as mid-layers. I prefer them to fleece and I already have loads. Sleevelss ones are good for fine-tuning the insulation.
Biksters leggings are good (and cheap) for cool riding, they have a good balance of insulation and permeability. On icy nights I need an extra layer such as pertex water-resistant over-pants. Leg-warmers are for rides which have a big change in temp (eg mountain climbs) If you keep them on the whole ride then you are better off with tights-style leggings.
You need clean bike shorts /undies every day so don't combine your padding with leggings or your wash-load will increase.
Wear a windproof outer layer in the the dry, not a waterproof. Any waterproof will get too sweaty and you will get colder.
Prepare for some roadside maintenance, always make sure you have an extra layer.0 -
Kieran_Burns wrote:Holy Cow. I'm spending some money!
EL610RC Single Shot Plus Rechargeable Front Light - EL610RC Single Shot
1 x £77.70
TL-LD 1100 Rear Light - TL-LD 1100 Rear Light
1 x £19.99
Night Vision Waterproof Jacket - Yellow - Large 41-43 Chest
1 x £48.75
Dryline Waterproof Shorts - X-large - 35.5-38 Waist
1 x £42.50
White Lightning Trigger Chain Cleaner - Trigger Chain Cleaner
1 x £19.99
Neostream Overshoe - Large (11-13)
1 x £16.99
Lusso Breathe Balaclava - Lusso Breathe Balaclava - Large
1 x £9.99
Night Vision Waterproof Trousers - Large - 33 - 35" Waist
1 x £38.75
Comments about waist size NOT welcome :oops:
Got a few other bits and bobs in there (oh and i get a 10% discount on that lot)
Only one set of clothing there, I assume from that anytime you need to wash and/or dry anything you'll be able to do so overnight? (I have 2 or everything at least)
I would also really recommend that you have a backup light on you. Batteries are OK but will run out eventually, last place you want that is in the middle of nowhere.'Twas Mulga Bill, from Eaglehawk, that caught the cycling craze....0 -
Thanks Kieran_Burns, I was going to post the exact same question And I'll add my thanks to everyone for the advice and recommendations.Kieran_Burns wrote:Comments about waist size NOT welcome :oops:
Sensitive because you're a skinny one?Today is a good day to ride0 -
I'll add:
* an helmet cover, that is put over your helmet to protect from rain and cold wind (in addition to helmet cap).
* several Buffs (or equivalent) are always usefull (for throat or head).
* reflective pant clips.
* several long finger gloves with various cold protection, at least two for above or below 5°c (always a couple pair of each to be sure to have a dry pair available), that aren't too narrow to enable undergloves.
And I'll definitively forget cotton clothes, at least full cotton ones.0 -
Generally the advice given is very good. Beware of setting off with too much on though. It is better to have to put on an extra layer after 20mins than take one off. I also tend to carry a bit more than i need for emergencies.
Sealskinz gloves and socks (2 pairs, so if you get soakied on the way in you have dry kit for the way home). MTB winter boots, ideally with a gore-tex layer. That way you can buy them specific to the socks you'll be wearing. Padded shorts, wicking, as with all lycra you want to buy decent kit. Leggings/bibs and a long sleeved tech top, all wicking. Merino is good for the top half. Decent waterproof trousers and jacket. Gilet to keep the wind off.
The most important thing is to make sure your bike is in good working order, you don't want a mechanical if at all avoidable. I generally take a spare gear and brake cable, two spare tubes, patches levers and a pair of good multitools and a decent pump. I also take a small pack I've put together of spare bolts, chain links (two fast links and a short length of chain) chainring bolts and mech hanger. Zipp ties and duck tape are also handy in emergencies. Phone and a spare energy gel in case you start to feel down.
I also always carry a thermal blanket and two spare base layers as well as spray on anti-septic and spray on plaster. The important thing if you have to stop for ANY length of time is to immediately put on all your spare kit to stop yourself starting to cool down.
Plenty of fluids, 15-16 miles should take less than an hour so roughly 750ml should be enough. The waterproofs i tend to only put on if it looks like it is going to rain, and I generally wear as little as I think i can get away with, you want to feel a bit cold when you step outside so once you start you should warm up nicely.
Depending how much stuff you need to take to work you could get this into a rucksac, I actually quite like having one as it keeps the warmth in. Something like this should keep you a bit warmer without causing you to get too sweaty. If you're taking a fair bit of work stuff then panniers is the route to go down.0 -
Generally the advice given is very good. Beware of setting off with too much on though. It is better to have to put on an extra layer after 20mins than take one off. I also tend to carry a bit more than i need for emergencies.
Sealskinz gloves and socks (2 pairs, so if you get soakied on the way in you have dry kit for the way home). MTB winter boots, ideally with a gore-tex layer. That way you can buy them specific to the socks you'll be wearing. Padded shorts, wicking, as with all lycra you want to buy decent kit. Leggings/bibs and a long sleeved tech top, all wicking. Merino is good for the top half. Decent waterproof trousers and jacket. Gilet to keep the wind off.
The most important thing is to make sure your bike is in good working order, you don't want a mechanical if at all avoidable. I generally take a spare gear and brake cable, two spare tubes, patches levers and a pair of good multitools and a decent pump. I also take a small pack I've put together of spare bolts, chain links (two fast links and a short length of chain) chainring bolts and mech hanger. Zipp ties and duck tape are also handy in emergencies. Phone and a spare energy gel in case you start to feel down.
I also always carry a thermal blanket and two spare base layers as well as spray on anti-septic and spray on plaster. The important thing if you have to stop for ANY length of time is to immediately put on all your spare kit to stop yourself starting to cool down.
Plenty of fluids, 15-16 miles should take less than an hour so roughly 750ml should be enough. The waterproofs i tend to only put on if it looks like it is going to rain, and I generally wear as little as I think i can get away with, you want to feel a bit cold when you step outside so once you start you should warm up nicely.
Depending how much stuff you need to take to work you could get this into a rucksac, I actually quite like having one as it keeps the warmth in and I also feel that although they'll raise your centre of gravity, because it is attached to you it a) can act as padding in the event of a spill and b) can be used as added weight to correct slipping. Something like this should keep you a bit warmer without causing you to get too sweaty. If you're taking a fair bit of work stuff then panniers is the route to go down.0 -
Oh and if you go down the backpak route, most goot camping shops will let you return an unused bag so you can check your gear will fit in...0
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I think you have got the right ideas but some extra thoughts:
1. an alternative to overshoes are winter boots (shimano and specialized do them) basically these are MTB SPD shoes thatgo over ankle, have a waterproof goretex liner and a neoprene cuff. I find them more convenient than overshoes. Not cheap though - £80-100ish
2. You definitely want to invest in wicking base layer tops. Otherwise if you work up a sweat then get a mechanical problem you will freeze. Best options IMO are merino or Helly Hansen Lifa. Lifa stinks when left to fester but if you are only cycling one way that would not be a problem.
3. Everyone has their favourite lights. I've ended up using a hub dyno system (just so convenient) plus a helmet light (tiny led that flashes white forwards and red behind). I love having a flashing light right in the drivers eyeline).
4. I have occasionally used something to cover my face when it is seriously cold (sub zero). Generally I find it a hassle because it directs my breath onto my glasses, which steam up, freeze etc. But if it's REALLY cold sometimes the alternative is just too painful
5. forget about waterproof leggings - even goretex doesnt breath enough for energetic cycling. I've got some roubaix (fleecy lined) bib tights which will keep me warm even if it damp. Of course if it's really raining then it's never THAT cold
J0 -
Jedster, glad to see you back! Hope you're recovering well.
Quick question - I was told by someone in my office who also cycles that flashing front lights are now actually illegal because they're a distraction to drivers.
In my opinion, as ever maturely expressed, DUH! That's the idea! But is there any truth in this?
I find my Altura winter cruisers are water repellent (not water-proof) and toasty warm, coupled with some rainlegs (google it), they're great. I heartily recommend rainlegs by the way, they're brilliant.0 -
jedster wrote:I think you have got the right ideas but some extra thoughts:
1. an alternative to overshoes are winter boots (shimano and specialized do them) basically these are MTB SPD shoes thatgo over ankle, have a waterproof goretex liner and a neoprene cuff. I find them more convenient than overshoes. Not cheap though - £80-100ish
2. You definitely want to invest in wicking base layer tops. Otherwise if you work up a sweat then get a mechanical problem you will freeze. Best options IMO are merino or Helly Hansen Lifa. Lifa stinks when left to fester but if you are only cycling one way that would not be a problem.
3. Everyone has their favourite lights. I've ended up using a hub dyno system (just so convenient) plus a helmet light (tiny led that flashes white forwards and red behind). I love having a flashing light right in the drivers eyeline).
4. I have occasionally used something to cover my face when it is seriously cold (sub zero). Generally I find it a hassle because it directs my breath onto my glasses, which steam up, freeze etc. But if it's REALLY cold sometimes the alternative is just too painful
5. forget about waterproof leggings - even goretex doesnt breath enough for energetic cycling. I've got some roubaix (fleecy lined) bib tights which will keep me warm even if it damp. Of course if it's really raining then it's never THAT cold
J
1 Northwave do a very nice pair which I use, they keep the water out unless it gets in the top then they keep the water in brilliantly
2. base layer tops are excellent, I'd suggest a couple of different thicknesses going from nippy to having to cut open a ton-ton to say alive.
4. a buff is what you want there, when it's really cold it stops your face peeling off
5 waterproof trousers go over leggings and keep you super dryPurveyor of sonic doom
Very Hairy Roadie - FCN 4
Fixed Pista- FCN 5
Beared Bromptonite - FCN 140 -
I too would drop the over-trousers and go for some decent roubaix tights - far too much flapping and general impedence.
a definite on the neoprene booties though.0 -
lost_in_thought wrote:Jedster, glad to see you back! Hope you're recovering well.
Quick question - I was told by someone in my office who also cycles that flashing front lights are now actually illegal because they're a distraction to drivers.
In my opinion, as ever maturely expressed, DUH! That's the idea! But is there any truth in this?
.
Point them here ...
http://www.dft.gov.uk/pgr/roads/vehicle ... edalbi4556
Flashing lights are fine.
tux0 -
I thought flashing lights were OK but frankly I'd use the even if illegal. Worth saying that the added benefit of having them on your helmet is you can point them DIRECTLY AT cars waiting to enter your road.
I did use a fairly powerful 1W LED spot on my helmet but stopped because I thought it was a bit aggressive/dazzling and also might well compromise the effectiveness of the helmet...
BTW never used rainlegs but they do look a good idea
J0 -
Peasoup wrote:I too would drop the over-trousers and go for some decent roubaix tights - far too much flapping and general impedence.
this these, snug fit and you don't realise you're wearing them once you're going
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/Cycle/7/Gore_Alp_X_Gore-Tex_Wateproof_Trousers/5360026065/Purveyor of sonic doom
Very Hairy Roadie - FCN 4
Fixed Pista- FCN 5
Beared Bromptonite - FCN 140 -
I'm a crap winter rider but I have a suspicion I'll be buying several hundred pounds worth of gear that will keep me toasty over the next couple of months...
(are reflector's readily buyable? My Focus doesn't have one and my Trek's broke off)0 -
Wow. Sorry folks I thought there were no more posts on this thread (mistakenly thought I'd visited so no more emails...)
I've got a wicking layer now, and I have two front lights and will have two rear lights as well.
I've also bought the SKS mudguards recommended - got the overtrousers and overshoes ordered - I'm going to get some thermal tights as well (if someone can point me the in the direction of a good pair?)
I chuck everything in a quick wash overnight when I get home (Miele is your friend!) - minimal powder and no conditioner just to wash the muck off and give them a proper wash over the weekend
I've got a water proof top (Altura nightvision) on order, I noticed it has a high collar that will keep some wind off my face and a skull cap as well (if it gets really cold)
I figure if I get more than I need now and see what happens it'll be best - this being my first winter I know there's going to be improvements on the way
Thanks for all the very helpful advice so far!
KieranChunky Cyclists need your love too! :-)
2009 Specialized Tricross Sport
2011 Trek Madone 4.5
2012 Felt F65X
Proud CX Pervert and quiet roadie. 12 mile commuter0 -
jedster wrote:I thought flashing lights were OK but frankly I'd use the even if illegal. Worth saying that the added benefit of having them on your helmet is you can point them DIRECTLY AT cars waiting to enter your road.
I did use a fairly powerful 1W LED spot on my helmet but stopped because I thought it was a bit aggressive/dazzling and also might well compromise the effectiveness of the helmet...
BTW never used rainlegs but they do look a good idea
J
Tell you what, I hadn't thought of that aspect of it, the pointing them at cars, I mean. Interesting. Sadly I don't wear a helmet, but I think now that I know they're legal I may add a flashy flashy LED to the front of the bike.
I bought one of those emergency replacement led flashy little things yesterday, as I couldn't find the bracket in the shop for my rear light, and they're really good.
Furthermore, I really do heartily recommend rainlegs.0 -
I'm plotting my winter gear shopping spree
I've a decent GoreTex jacket that'll keep me dry and warm on the worst of days, but I'm not sure what to do about legwear. I've ridden in previous winters in waterproof overtrousers but I end up boil-in-the-bag sweaty so I'd like to go another way. Would the Roubaix tights mentioned here keep me warm enough if it was cold & wet outside? I don't mind being wet but I'm concerned that if I'm wet on a cold and windy winter's day, it'll be horrible.
My commute is 30 minutes / 7-8 miles on urban streets along the bus route.Today is a good day to ride0 -
I would also recommend lining gloves if your hands start to feel cold as they just don't move much so keeping them super toasty helps a lotPurveyor of sonic doom
Very Hairy Roadie - FCN 4
Fixed Pista- FCN 5
Beared Bromptonite - FCN 140 -
I rode all last winter for exercise purposes on my MTB.
I wore leggings in the main but couldnt get on with waterproof over trousers. Only wore them when it was raining hard.
Having not riden a bike in years and even then not in the winter, I was really surprised how cold I got. Ive done some running in the past but never got as cold as on the bike.
On really cold days I wore a scull cap under my helmet to cover the ears. You look like a real nerd / smirf but saves your ears freezing, 3 layers on my top half and winter thermo thingy gloves.
I also recommend a Buff. http://www.buffwear.co.uk/
This can be made into all manner of headwear/neck warmer. Very useful.
I found I wore the overboots alot as well as Marin wool socks.
I have built up an extensive collection of clothes for all occasions.I hate to think how much money I've spent.
Can't say Im looking forward to the cold weather again.Specialised Epic MTB on slicks.
SPD clipless pedals: FCN 70 -
Just to confirm what others said, for winter my kit is as follows:
wicking base layer
Long sleeve second layer
Wind proof Jacket (Altura somehing or other, doesn't matter too much, wind proof is the key over everything else)
Normal Baggy shorts
Running tights (nothing special, mine are from Aldi)
Normal cycling shoes
Sealskin socks
MTB thick gloves
Sometimes a ear cover (it was a skiwear thing I found somewhere)
I have a 5-6 mile commute and was always warm with the above kit, but I "run hot" so to speak and on the milder mornings, around 4-6c, this was too hot for me.
If you use a ruck sack, can I recommend a Hump http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=23556. I have four lights, 1 flashing, 1 fixed front and rear, plus the hump and various reflecty bits on the clothes. Often feel more visible in the dark in the winter that I do in the daylight in he summer. However, in the winter I would always recommend people to ride in the dark as if no one can see you and take the appropriate cautions.
I don't bother with mudgaurds, but then I'm a mountain biker too so don't mind a bit of muck! Another thing that might be usefu is a stuff sack for all your winter stuff when you get to work, as it might not all fit back into your bag/pannniers/rucksack. Oh yeh, and a flask for a nice warm cup of coffee when you get to work.
Going to add a Buff to my stuff this year.
John0 -
tuxpoo wrote:lost_in_thought wrote:Jedster, glad to see you back! Hope you're recovering well.
Quick question - I was told by someone in my office who also cycles that flashing front lights are now actually illegal because they're a distraction to drivers.
In my opinion, as ever maturely expressed, DUH! That's the idea! But is there any truth in this?
.
Point them here ...
http://www.dft.gov.uk/pgr/roads/vehicle ... edalbi4556
Flashing lights are fine.
tux
Just read the article out of interest and it seems i am flouting the law!! I have spd pedals which haven't got reflectors fitted and i doubt whether you can fit reflectors to mine anyway. Anyone else have this problem?
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=3759Commuter Surosa Toledo S34 Audax
Best Bike Merida Road Race 901-18
In truth i love them both0