Creakings, clickings, tickings, clankings and knockings.

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  • thebikeboy16
    thebikeboy16 Posts: 108
    How do you check that?

    They said it wasn't the casette/spacer that had been fitted (or lack of). Anyway they looked at it again and the solution was another spacer that they had to fit. Apparently 11 speed has had a knock-on effect on the production of hubs.
  • jgsi
    jgsi Posts: 5,062
    Annoying tick from bottom bracket was caused by me being in a rush building the bike.
    I didnt face the BB to get rid of paint overspill and although a layer of paint you would not think would cause a noise.. after facing the BB, noise gone after fitting the HT bb.
    Being a nerd I do own a facing and tapping toolset in order to fix in 30 minutes rather than god knows how many days sat in an LBS workshop..
  • wolfsbane2k
    wolfsbane2k Posts: 3,056
    Had a nasty clicking appear when out of the seat. On route check, couldn't isolate, but it got worse.
    Quick once around the bazzars with a torque wrench showed that the two pannier bolts on the seat stays had come very, very loose. 1 mile ride, no repeats.
    I'd done everything else at the weekend, but for some reason always seem to forget these!
    Intent on Cycling Commuting on a budget, but keep on breaking/crashing/finding nice stuff to buy.
    Bike 1 (Broken) - Bike 2(Borked) - Bike 3(broken spokes) - Bike 4( Needs Work) - Bike 5 (in bits) - Bike 6* ...
  • heavymental
    heavymental Posts: 2,076
    Well done Mouse and smcphee ... useful stuff!
  • RussE
    RussE Posts: 2
    Specialised tarmac sl4, clicking tapping after changing brake cables.... its the rear brake cable internally routed, where it's inside the top tube, it should have donuts present. You don't realise when you pull the old cable out they just get stripped off and stay in the frame. Annoying.
  • cgfw201
    cgfw201 Posts: 674
    New Quarq cranks, with new GXP BB, fitted around 5 weeks ago. Last night riding in the rain, started with a quiet creak, ended up with a louder creak.

    Tried 2 different wheels, ruled them/the QR skewer out when I got home.
    Creaks under pressure when pedalling, and when rotating cranks on workstand under no load, ruled out pedals.

    Only thing I haven't checked is chainring bolt tightness, could be that. Anyone recognise this noise...? (Noise only when backpedalling in this video, for some reason, but it is there when pedalling forwards too!)

    https://goo.gl/photos/mspwNtD3emhvxm1B6
  • perfectmark
    perfectmark Posts: 117
    cgfw201 wrote:
    New Quarq cranks, with new GXP BB, fitted around 5 weeks ago. Last night riding in the rain, started with a quiet creak, ended up with a louder creak.

    Tried 2 different wheels, ruled them/the QR skewer out when I got home.
    Creaks under pressure when pedalling, and when rotating cranks on workstand under no load, ruled out pedals.

    Only thing I haven't checked is chainring bolt tightness, could be that. Anyone recognise this noise...? (Noise only when backpedalling in this video, for some reason, but it is there when pedalling forwards too!)

    https://goo.gl/photos/mspwNtD3emhvxm1B6
    If it started in the rain, then I would assume some dirt/water has got in somewhere. Check the chainring bolts first, but if it isn't that then I would look at removing the BB and cleaning/re-greasing.
  • NucDidds
    NucDidds Posts: 15
    Hi all. I have a 2014 Tiagra chainset/BB (4600) and have done about 4k miles. I get a knocking which is more sound than feel when climbing or on the odd occasion trying to sprint.

    Does this sound like BB problem? I've tried tightening the chain rings etc and all seemed fine.

    Thanks,
  • shimanobottombracket
    shimanobottombracket Posts: 376
    Mavic Cosmic hub noise issue solved.

    viewtopic.php?f=40004&t=13079812

    Having got my wheel back from a bike shop who were unable to solve the problem either, I had another look at it. I was able to replicate the noise by putting the bike upside down and pedaling in top gear, causing the wheel to spin at very high speed. There was a clearly audible metallic rubbing noise. So I loosened off the bearing preload cap. In fact I took it off completely, cleaned and regreased around in there and put it back on less tight. My wheel is rolling smoothly and quietly now. Having been for a 14 miler and hitting over 30mph at times.

    Dont recall any raised lettering one person mentioned, but hopefully my wheel will stay quit for a while now.
  • far_from_home
    far_from_home Posts: 7
    Maybe this has actually been covered above but the cause of this click was a new one for me.

    My 3.5 y.o alu crosser/ winter bike (Canyon Inflite) with Ultegra 6800 had been driving me up the wall for the last few weeks with an apparent clicking drivetrain. Normally a click on every forceful push on the cranks, i.e. one per half revolution. Having some experience in annoying clicks and troubleshooting I did not assume it was a BB or chainring problem, as much as it sounded like it.

    In and out of the saddle. Independent of gear selection (I thought about this a lot, especially as the big chainring is showing wear), two different wheelsets no difference. To confuse matters/ provide a clue, on one particular ride which got a bit wet, the click went away... as if water had got in to wherever the source of the click was and and lubricating it. Next ride it was back again.

    Changed a semi worn chain out for a slightly more worn chain (to better match the state of the rings and sprockets). Checked and cleaned saddle and seatpost inferfaces and even though it seemed independent of being seated or not. Re-torqued stem bolts even though the click happened with my hands off the bars, removed and cleaned the RD and hanger, checked the frame for cracks. Getting more desperate. Removed chainrings, cleaned and refitted. Gave up and swapped out the press fit BB. All with no improvement. At least I could multitask with the Giro running in the background.

    Then I checked the FD clamp bolt tightness. It was a little bit easy to turn, not too much, but went "creak" as I did so. Released the FD cable, removed the FD clamp bolt, cleaned and greased the interface points, refitted, made sure the alignment bolt was hard up against the backing plate. Tested. Noise gone. Relief.

    But there you go, the pedalling forces are enough to cause small deflections at the FD clamp on the frame, enough to go click-click-click on a dry and not particularly tight bolted connection... live and learn.
  • shimanobottombracket
    shimanobottombracket Posts: 376
    far_from_home wrote:
    Maybe this has actually been covered above but the cause of this click was a new one for me.

    My 3.5 y.o alu crosser/ winter bike (Canyon Inflite) with Ultegra 6800 had been driving me up the wall for the last few weeks with an apparent clicking drivetrain. Normally a click on every forceful push on the cranks, i.e. one per half revolution. Having some experience in annoying clicks and troubleshooting I did not assume it was a BB or chainring problem, as much as it sounded like it.

    In and out of the saddle. Independent of gear selection (I thought about this a lot, especially as the big chainring is showing wear), two different wheelsets no difference. To confuse matters/ provide a clue, on one particular ride which got a bit wet, the click went away... as if water had got in to wherever the source of the click was and and lubricating it. Next ride it was back again.

    Changed a semi worn chain out for a slightly more worn chain (to better match the state of the rings and sprockets). Checked and cleaned saddle and seatpost inferfaces and even though it seemed independent of being seated or not. Re-torqued stem bolts even though the click happened with my hands off the bars, removed and cleaned the RD and hanger, checked the frame for cracks. Getting more desperate. Removed chainrings, cleaned and refitted. Gave up and swapped out the press fit BB. All with no improvement. At least I could multitask with the Giro running in the background.

    Then I checked the FD clamp bolt tightness. It was a little bit easy to turn, not too much, but went "creak" as I did so. Released the FD cable, removed the FD clamp bolt, cleaned and greased the interface points, refitted, made sure the alignment bolt was hard up against the backing plate. Tested. Noise gone. Relief.

    But there you go, the pedalling forces are enough to cause small deflections at the FD clamp on the frame, enough to go click-click-click on a dry and not particularly tight bolted connection... live and learn.

    Or nearly NOT live and learn.

    Somewhat OT but an experience I feel worth mentioning. While out mountain biking I noticed my chain rubbing on the front derailler on the highest gears. I didnt really think much of it at the time, just alter the limit screw to allow the derailler to move further out when I got home.
    When I started making adjustments and tested the gearing, I noticed the limit screw was alrite all along. Alarmingly the crankset was the problem. The whole thing was loose and the chainrings would move back and forth slightly, causing the rub. So I was riding along cliff tops and down mountain trails on a loose crankset! I didnt fancy my chances if the pedals/cranks fell off at a critical moment and I lost control as a result.
  • grant2307
    grant2307 Posts: 135
    I have a Felt F85 road bike.

    I bought it second hand and it came with 105 front & rear derailleurs and ultegra cassette and micro shifters. I stuck on my campag centaur crank and a new KMC chain. Then I soon realised within seconds how poor the micro shifters were.

    Anyhow I sourced a set of 105 shifters and had them fitted at my LBS along with some new cables and new bar tape.

    They invited me back in any chain stretch etc, I done a little sportive in Hertfordshire a day or 2 after and noticed a couple issues.

    My chain come off the front big chain ring when dropping to the small chain ring, it has done this once or twice since but not sure if this was to my own error.

    The main issue is when I drop to a small gear on the 10 speed cassette, at times I get a ticking / clicking noise, I then shift up and the noise goes. But if I go from the large ring on the rear cassette through the gears I don't get the noise, only when I am dropping through the gears. I popped back to my LBS shop a few weeks ago and noticed the hangar was bent, straightened it out but it started again a couple days later and still does so now.

    I can go up a gear and back down and the noise may not happen again.

    So I'm not 100% if this is chain related / cable related or rear derailleur related?

    Help please! Doing another sportive in July with a few friends and I am hoping to have this sorted by then.
  • bianchichris
    bianchichris Posts: 24
    I'm getting a clicking noise from the drivetrain in probably the 3 easiest sprockets when climbing both seated and standing. It has persisted after new chains (kmc and shimano) cassette, BB and chainset (changed because I needed a compact setup). In addition I have tried different pedals and shoes. It doesn't happen under heavy pedalling loads in higher gears using the big ring. Any ideas appreciated. Freehub?
  • lincolndave
    lincolndave Posts: 9,441
    bianchichris wrote:
    I'm getting a clicking noise from the drivetrain in probably the 3 easiest sprockets when climbing both seated and standing. It has persisted after new chains (kmc and shimano) cassette, BB and chainset (changed because I needed a compact setup). In addition I have tried different pedals and shoes. It doesn't happen under heavy pedalling loads in higher gears using the big ring. Any ideas appreciated. Freehub?

    Is your chain catching the front derailleur?
  • bianchichris
    bianchichris Posts: 24
    Lincolndave wrote:
    bianchichris wrote:
    I'm getting a clicking noise from the drivetrain in probably the 3 easiest sprockets when climbing both seated and standing. It has persisted after new chains (kmc and shimano) cassette, BB and chainset (changed because I needed a compact setup). In addition I have tried different pedals and shoes. It doesn't happen under heavy pedalling loads in higher gears using the big ring. Any ideas appreciated. Freehub?

    Is your chain catching the front derailleur?

    No, I've checked that.
  • graememacd
    graememacd Posts: 386
    Hi all. I recently built up an orbea orca which has developed the dreaded bottom bracket creak. I got a local bike shop to fit the bottom bracket as it was a press fit, I think it was an ultegra one. Is it the installation that makes these creak? I've heard locktite is a good way of getting round the creaking when installing. I have seen some press fit ones that screw together in middle, are they any good? Don't really want to spend more money considering this one cost about £40 and I've only done just over 400 miles on it. Is it possible to remove these and reinstall? The bike shop said not.
    The bikes great but this is driving me mad!
  • pete1336
    pete1336 Posts: 86
    I wanted to post a quick thank you to all the previous contributors to this thread. For the last several months I have been suffering from a pedal creak on my 2014 Boardman road team carbon. It only happened whilst putting the power down and the click was present in the saddle or out. I read almost every post in this 21 page thread which goes back some years. I made a note of every helpful tip offered and applied them all yesterday to my bike. The click now seems to have gone.
    The only slightly annoying issue is that I don't know which particular suggestion cured the problem....never the less...Still have a smile on my face.
    Thanks all.
  • Tashman
    Tashman Posts: 3,400
    A new noise coming from the front end on my Defy 1 whilst out at the weekend. Wasn't there when i left but appeared midway through. I realised eventually that the lever for the front skewer shouldn't be hanging loose :oops: Stopped, tightened off I went and that noise was all quiet. Still haven't eliminated the crank noise yet though. investigations are ongoing
  • Tashman
    Tashman Posts: 3,400
    Tashman wrote:
    Still haven't eliminated the crank noise yet though. investigations are ongoing
    Swapped over my A530 pedals for the M520's that came with it. All the noise has gone away :) Could it have been down the the tension all being wound off?? I shall investigate at another point
  • Mr _Tibbs
    Mr _Tibbs Posts: 46
    After a period of freewheeling, or if I stop. I get a single loud bang/metallic twang as soon as I complete one or sometimes two rotations of the crank.

    I have removed the crank, greased and refitted. Greased the axle too, checked all chainring bolts, QR's are tight, wheels true, spokes all good.

    It sounds like the chain pinging and I can't see if the chain is jumping off the ring but I doubt it, the noise is too clean and crisp, not crunchy. I've replaced the chain regardless.

    FD was a little lose but is now tight, with no result

    My free hub went a while ago, the springs needed greasing and the pawls (spelling) got trapped.

    But the sound feels (I can feel it click In the pedals) to come from the crank area when the crank arm is under pressure, with a definite, if tiny, sense of "give" as it click, like something beds in

    I run carbon rims so it's not a joint in the rim that needs a punch and is not that cyclical either.

    It's proper noticeable by ride buddies and is frankly embarrassing, let alone worrying (you can see where my priorities lie!)
  • Bobbinogs
    Bobbinogs Posts: 4,841
    Mr _Tibbs wrote:
    After a period of freewheeling, or if I stop. I get a single loud bang/metallic twang as soon as I complete one or sometimes two rotations of the crank.

    I have removed the crank, greased and refitted. Greased the axle too, checked all chainring bolts, QR's are tight, wheels true, spokes all good.
    ...

    It can be amazing how some sounds propagate from the actual source. Have you tried the simple step of changing the back wheel to see if the noise stays? If the sound is fairly predictable and you ride with someone using the same setup then you could swap a wheel for a ride and see what happens?
  • Mr _Tibbs
    Mr _Tibbs Posts: 46
    Bobbinogs wrote:
    Mr _Tibbs wrote:
    After a period of freewheeling, or if I stop. I get a single loud bang/metallic twang as soon as I complete one or sometimes two rotations of the crank.

    I have removed the crank, greased and refitted. Greased the axle too, checked all chainring bolts, QR's are tight, wheels true, spokes all good.
    ...

    It can be amazing how some sounds propagate from the actual source. Have you tried the simple step of changing the back wheel to see if the noise stays? If the sound is fairly predictable and you ride with someone using the same setup then you could swap a wheel for a ride and see what happens?

    That's great advice. Thanks. I'll stick an old wheel on and see if the noise persists.

    Why did t I think of that!!
  • webboo
    webboo Posts: 6,087
    graememacd wrote:
    Hi all. I recently built up an orbea orca which has developed the dreaded bottom bracket creak. I got a local bike shop to fit the bottom bracket as it was a press fit, I think it was an ultegra one. Is it the installation that makes these creak? I've heard locktite is a good way of getting round the creaking when installing. I have seen some press fit ones that screw together in middle, are they any good? Don't really want to spend more money considering this one cost about £40 and I've only done just over 400 miles on it. Is it possible to remove these and reinstall? The bike shop said not.
    The bikes great but this is driving me mad!
    Is it a new frame as I have a 5 year old Orca which developed a creak when I'd just got. It turned out that the drink from my bottle had got in the BB, shop cleaned it out and regreased it, Not had the problem again.
  • graememacd
    graememacd Posts: 386
    Webboo wrote:
    graememacd wrote:
    Hi all. I recently built up an orbea orca which has developed the dreaded bottom bracket creak. I got a local bike shop to fit the bottom bracket as it was a press fit, I think it was an ultegra one. Is it the installation that makes these creak? I've heard locktite is a good way of getting round the creaking when installing. I have seen some press fit ones that screw together in middle, are they any good? Don't really want to spend more money considering this one cost about £40 and I've only done just over 400 miles on it. Is it possible to remove these and reinstall? The bike shop said not.
    The bikes great but this is driving me mad!
    Is it a new frame as I have a 5 year old Orca which developed a creak when I'd just got. It turned out that the drink from my bottle had got in the BB, shop cleaned it out and regreased it, Not had the problem again.

    Strangely mine has stopped doing it. Not sure why but i'm pretty happy about it. hopefully it wont come back
  • capt_slog
    capt_slog Posts: 3,946
    After two weeks of trying to find a knocking noise each time the front wheel goes over a bump, I finally traced it to here...

    D777300_08.jpg

    ... cable flapping against the frame.

    Okay, it should have been obvious, but that didn't stop me taking the wheel out to check the bearings, forks, headset bearings etc. :roll:

    The reason I found it was because I went in front of the bike and was bouncing the front tyre whilst holding the frame, instead of being astride the bike holding the bars.

    The noise started at the time I began using higher pressure in the tyres, and that was following quite a spectacular double puncture caused by a pinch flat when I hit a boulder in the road. It was a very hard knock and I thought I had damaged something, hence the inspections. It's so easy to lead yourself down the wrong logical path. :D

    BTW, these days when a creak appears, I kind of relieved to find out it's just the bike!


    The older I get, the better I was.

  • Mr _Tibbs
    Mr _Tibbs Posts: 46
    Bobbinogs wrote:
    Mr _Tibbs wrote:
    After a period of freewheeling, or if I stop. I get a single loud bang/metallic twang as soon as I complete one or sometimes two rotations of the crank.

    I have removed the crank, greased and refitted. Greased the axle too, checked all chainring bolts, QR's are tight, wheels true, spokes all good.
    ...

    It can be amazing how some sounds propagate from the actual source. Have you tried the simple step of changing the back wheel to see if the noise stays? If the sound is fairly predictable and you ride with someone using the same setup then you could swap a wheel for a ride and see what happens?

    Just as an update, Inswapped out both wheels, obviously including the freehub and block and bearings. Along with the chain and the loud bang/click has gone, as has the recurring creak.

    When I took the rear off I noticed that the bearings were grinding and was also able to make the freehub click upon initial pressure (just twisting the block whilst holding the spokes) so I suspect the click is the freehub jumping and the creak is the bearing.

    Rear wheel in the shop for a rebuild.

    As a side question, the shop tell me I need new spokes as the new hub won't take my existing flat/aero spokes...does that sound true?

    Should be spendy I think!
  • Bobbinogs
    Bobbinogs Posts: 4,841
    Mr _Tibbs wrote:
    ...

    As a side question, the shop tell me I need new spokes as the new hub won't take my existing flat/aero spokes...does that sound true?

    Yes, this seems quite likely. Hubs/spokes can come in a number of sizes and connection types (J bend or straight pull, etc.,) and some bladed spokes will even require special hubs so it sounds like the new hub is similar to the current one but not the same, therefore new spokes are required. It doesn't add too much to the cost and many riders would change the spokes with a rebuild anyway. The penalty in going from aero blade to something like Sapim D-Light is chaff all, squared, for most riders.
  • svetty
    svetty Posts: 1,904
    If all you are carrying over is the rim why bother?

    Replace the bearings and clean/re-grease the pawls/springs and use it until it dies, then get a new one......
    FFS! Harden up and grow a pair :D
  • Lbuudge
    Lbuudge Posts: 1
    Hi

    Ive got a brand new planetx ec130e and when i got it out the box and set it up i realised that every left pedal stroke or when i put power through the left pedal there is a horrendous, loud creak. this also happens if i am out of the saddle freewheeling with all my weight on the left pedal but it continues to creak until i stop i done this for testing purposes.

    there is nothing loose or wobbly the whole bike seems perfect...

    im new to the forum so unsure if i can share a video i took - let me know if its possible happy to share.
  • Dagless
    Dagless Posts: 12
    Lbuudge wrote:
    Hi

    Ive got a brand new planetx ec130e and when i got it out the box and set it up i realised that every left pedal stroke or when i put power through the left pedal there is a horrendous, loud creak. this also happens if i am out of the saddle freewheeling with all my weight on the left pedal but it continues to creak until i stop i done this for testing purposes.

    there is nothing loose or wobbly the whole bike seems perfect...

    im new to the forum so unsure if i can share a video i took - let me know if its possible happy to share.

    If it's only ever when pressuring/standing on the left pedal you could try taking it off and putting back on again, perhaps it had been mis-threaded so while it feels tight on it might not be on properly. Not sure if mis-threading a pedal would have ruined it though, I am new here myself, and while I am fairly technically minded my bike repair experience is mostly limited to brakes, tyres & indexing gears.

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