Bike Weight
Comments
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Frame LeMond Triomphe Min/Max Carbon - size 57cm
Fork Bontrager Race Lite Carbon full carbon or alloy steerer?
Headset Cane Creek IS2
Crank Shimano Ultegra 50/34(double) heavy rings ( TA or stronglight CT2 )
Pedals Shimano Ultegra SPD-L Keo carbon
Front Derailleur Shimano Ultegra
Rear Derailleur Shimano Ultegra
Shift/Brake Levers Shimano Ultegra STI heavier than DA/record/sramCassette Shimano Ultegra 12-25, 10-speed
Wheel System Bontrager Race wheelsystem no idea but could be heavy here
Tires Bontrager Race X Lite 700x23c, folding
Brakes Shimano Ultegra
Handlebar Bontrager Race VR OS perhaps a ritchey WCS here
Stem Bontrager Race OS perhaps a ritchey WCS hereSaddle Spec Toupe Gel
Seatpost Bontrager Race X Lite Carbon
Computer Shim Flight Deck
Bottle Cages: 2x 4ZA Wing Carbon Bottle Cage (25g)
i reckon could be the wheels...need to have a look here
& forks ..
you could drop 200 gms by changing to CONTI attack/force 7 som esupersonic tubes..
also with ultegra you can lose 15ogms by bolt tuning ( alu & Ti )0 -
I've made some changes since, but when I last added up the weights, 6.2kg.
I should say that I actually prefer to ride my Mrazek bike which probably weighs somehwere around 8.5kg. Because carbon tubular rims + 20c tyres are downright scary if descending slopes more than 10%...0 -
Frame- colnago E1
Forks - Colnago star
Seatpost - Ernesto Colnago post
bars/stem: Cinelli Ram 2 VRC's with checkpoint
Shifters: Campagnolo record
Brakes: Campagnolo record skeletons with swisstop race2000GHP pads
Chainset: Campagnolo record ultra torque
Chain: KMC x10SL chain
Front mech: Campagnolo record
Rear mech:Campagnolo record with KCNC ceramic jockey wheels
Wheels: Front, DT rr 1.1 rim with Aerolite spokes on a Tune mig 70 with ceramic bearings
Back, DT rr 1.1 rim with aerolite spokes on a Tune Mag 160 with ceramic bearings with titanium tune AC14 skewers
Tyres: michelin Pro3 race
Tubes: Michelin Ultra lights
Pedals: Time RXS Ulteam titanium
Saddle: Selle Italia SLR Kit Carbonio flow
Computer: Polar 725i
Gats0 -
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15.7lb or 7kg's.
http://s96.photobucket.com/albums/l185/ ... ull%20bike
Still pretty heavy I think but in order to drop significant weight the jump in price is obscene. Maybe as a project but at least its functional as it is.
Gats0 -
16lbs on the dot (7.2 - 7.3 kg), including computer, pedals and one bottle cage. Not bad for a Ti bike I reckon, and plenty light enough.
Over-obsession with bike weight can definitely be an unhealthy addiction (unlike cycling itself), and shows a startling number of the hallmarks of addiction to other substances/behaviors, particularly because in moderation it is a good thing....
I reckon being happy with 16lbs shows I've got it under control.
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SDP wrote:Wheel System Bontrager Race wheelsystem no idea but could be heavy here
I weighed the wheels complete with tyres, tubes, cassette and skeweres.
Back 1665g
Front 1125g
Just seen in the latest C+ the SuperBikes review (bikes circa £1500) and the average without pedals was 8.4kg which is in line with mine so I guess that is an average weight for a bike in this price range. No so worried now ... but wheels look like the first port of call ...0 -
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synchronicity wrote:I've made some changes since, but when I last added up the weights, 6.2kg.
I should say that I actually prefer to ride my Mrazek bike which probably weighs somehwere around 8.5kg. Because carbon tubular rims + 20c tyres are downright scary if descending slopes more than 10%...
that is VERY light, but it's got a piece missing!0 -
That is very light, what bike/groupset and wheels do you have?BillR1 wrote:mines is 6.57kg and i'm 65 kg so 71.75 total
BillR10 -
wildmoustache wrote:synchronicity wrote:I've made some changes since, but when I last added up the weights, 6.2kg.
I should say that I actually prefer to ride my Mrazek bike which probably weighs somehwere around 8.5kg. Because carbon tubular rims + 20c tyres are downright scary if descending slopes more than 10%...
that is VERY light, but it's got a piece missing!
And what piece would that be? :?0 -
Lightweight bike = Lightweight training
I want to put down a marker fior the heaviest bike which for training gives me more bucks for hours in the saddle than riding a superlight racing thoroughbred.
Just weighed mine all ready for the road with training tyres on wheels and loaded up with spare inner tubes, pump and a couple of handy tools and it it comes in at ................24.2 lbs or 11 kgs.
When you compare hours or miles training guess who gets the better work out. LOL
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Oldwelshman, have a look further up the thread and you will see my R3 in the photo link
BillR10 -
Mike Willcox wrote:Lightweight bike = Lightweight training
I want to put down a marker fior the heaviest bike which for training gives me more bucks for hours in the saddle than riding a superlight racing thoroughbred.
Just weighed mine all ready for the road with training tyres on wheels and loaded up with spare inner tubes, pump and a couple of handy tools and it it comes in at ................24.2 lbs or 11 kgs.
When you compare hours or miles training guess who gets the better work out. LOL
Sorry Mike, don't get your logic re more bucks for hours in the saddle?
If you riding a heavier bike won't necessarily make you ride any harder, just slower up the hills for the same effort.
Cheers, Andy0 -
andrewgturnbull wrote:Mike Willcox wrote:Lightweight bike = Lightweight training
I want to put down a marker fior the heaviest bike which for training gives me more bucks for hours in the saddle than riding a superlight racing thoroughbred.
Just weighed mine all ready for the road with training tyres on wheels and loaded up with spare inner tubes, pump and a couple of handy tools and it it comes in at ................24.2 lbs or 11 kgs.
When you compare hours or miles training guess who gets the better work out. LOL
Sorry Mike, don't get your logic re more bucks for hours in the saddle?
If you riding a heavier bike won't necessarily make you ride any harder, just slower up the hills for the same effort.
Cheers, Andy
Greater weight equals more work. I don't know about you but I've always found hills to be harder on a heavier bike and require more effort. I like to keep my lightweight gear for racing which gives me a psychological lift.
Same when I do intervals on the road using TT bike; always with training wheels, training tyres, never the full racing set up.0 -
I guess that (less) weight is the main advance in last 30 years. Especially in frames/forks: probably over a third of mine's 22lbs!
It ain't wearing much!d.j.
"Cancel my subscription to the resurrection."0 -
No it doesn't - no particular reason why a heavier bike should make hills harder work - just slower. The same effect could be achieved simply by using a higher gear on a lighter bike. At 11kg, that's only 5% more on the total weight you're lifting up the hill anyway compared to a 7kg bike, so <0.5mph at hill climbing speeds, or alternatively the difference between a 21 and a 20 sprocket.Mike Willcox wrote:Greater weight equals more work. I don't know about you but I've always found hills to be harder on a heavier bike and require more effort.0 -
aracer wrote:
No it doesn't - no particular reason why a heavier bike should make hills harder work - just slower. The same effect could be achieved simply by using a higher gear on a lighter bike. At 11kg, that's only 5% more on the total weight you're lifting up the hill anyway compared to a 7kg bike, so <0.5mph at hill climbing speeds, or alternatively the difference between a 21 and a 20 sprocket.Mike Willcox wrote:Greater weight equals more work. I don't know about you but I've always found hills to be harder on a heavier bike and require more effort.
Oh yes it does. (oh no it doesn't :roll: ). if you don't go faster on a lighter bike then why bother? Why indeed does a lighter rider have an advantage on climbs?
Think about it.
Two bikes: One heavy bike one light bike. Same Rider same route same hours or miles.
Heavy bike same effort = slower time = more work as working for longer.
Heavy bike same time = greater effort = more work.
My last word. Good grief it's not rocket science.0 -
Well My new Felt F1X weighs around 21 pounds or 9.5Kg if you prefer but after riding a 29 pound mountain bike with 26x2.1 knobbly tyres on for the last two years, it feels as light as a feather 0
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andrewgturnbull wrote:Mike Willcox wrote:Lightweight bike = Lightweight training
I want to put down a marker fior the heaviest bike which for training gives me more bucks for hours in the saddle than riding a superlight racing thoroughbred.
Just weighed mine all ready for the road with training tyres on wheels and loaded up with spare inner tubes, pump and a couple of handy tools and it it comes in at ................24.2 lbs or 11 kgs.
When you compare hours or miles training guess who gets the better work out. LOL
Sorry Mike, don't get your logic re more bucks for hours in the saddle?
If you riding a heavier bike won't necessarily make you ride any harder, just slower up the hills for the same effort.
Cheers, Andy
Or, if your looking at your computer and you maintain same speed on hills, you put more effort in !!
My training/hack bike is heavy due to 853 frame, two front lights, two back lights, frame pump, two spare tubs, chain tool, tyre leavers and also mud guards, I am too scared to weight it, but when I get on my summer bike in a couple of weeks, I can feel the zip when I push down on the pedals.
By the way, I was on a club run recently and 4 other riders were descending with me, freewheeling and I got to bottom before them, guess servicing my wheel bearings worked
I can't believe the number or firers who go out on shiny new bikes with insufficient spares or tools. Its ok for a race but not for leisure.training rides.0 -
Your making the false assumption that you do the same route on the heavy and the light bike - you could just as easily do a longer route on the light bike, in which case you'd get more training effect on that (assuming you didn't overtrain), either through more hours or faster speed. I can't see any particular reason why in the long run you would choose to train for longer (training harder every time you ride to maintain the same time on the heavy bike as the light bike is as likely as not to be counterproductive), given the relatively limited hours most of us have, and if you do want to train longer then just find a longer route. Oh, and somewhere in there is also a very old fashioned view about how best to train to get faster (more miles, more pain).Mike Willcox wrote:Two bikes: One heavy bike one light bike. Same Rider same route same hours or miles.
Heavy bike same effort = slower time = more work as working for longer.
Heavy bike same time = greater effort = more work.
Anyway if a heavy bike for training is so beneficial, how come the pros go out training on <8kg bikes?0 -
aracer wrote:
Your making the false assumption that you do the same route on the heavy and the light bike - you could just as easily do a longer route on the light bike, in which case you'd get more training effect on that (assuming you didn't overtrain), either through more hours or faster speed. I can't see any particular reason why in the long run you would choose to train for longer (training harder every time you ride to maintain the same time on the heavy bike as the light bike is as likely as not to be counterproductive), given the relatively limited hours most of us have, and if you do want to train longer then just find a longer route. Oh, and somewhere in there is also a very old fashioned view about how best to train to get faster (more miles, more pain).Mike Willcox wrote:Two bikes: One heavy bike one light bike. Same Rider same route same hours or miles.
Heavy bike same effort = slower time = more work as working for longer.
Heavy bike same time = greater effort = more work.
Anyway if a heavy bike for training is so beneficial, how come the pros go out training on <8kg bikes?
Yes ... training with a lighter bike should actually be more time efficient ... i.e. full power on lighter bike gets you round your loop (slightly) faster.
BUT ... I find my race set-up is sometimes too fast for the open roads ... and then there is the ultimate in fast training on a TT bike with aero helmet, wheels etc ... doesn't feel the safest way to train but it is fast.
Depends also on whether you're training with other people. I do quite a bit, and for that a heavier bike is more efficient (in terms of demanding greater power output) as the time is pretty much set by the group's pace ...0 -
Isn't psychology the big component here? If your heavy bike feels slow and that makes you put more effort in, you will get more of a workout. On the other hand, if your light bike makes you enjoy the ride more and that makes you feel more charged-up and engaged with it, you could get more benefit that way. I think I do both actually, but I enjoy the rides on the light bike a lot more!0
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neeb wrote:I enjoy the rides on the light bike a lot more!
Hi there.
That's the deciding factor for me!
Life is too short to leave the good bike in the shed if the weather is good.
Cheers, Andy0 -
BTW to those proposing riding heavy bikes for better fitness - I too have a heavy bike in the shed. It's also relatively cheap and has guards, so is used when the weather's not so good. Yes it is nice to suddenly go faster on the nice bike when that comes out, but not so much that I'd choose to use the winter bike to train on when it's sunny, and wouldn't have a winter bike at all if the weather was always dry - anyway most of the difference there is probably down to the guards given I don't spend most of my normal rides climbing.0
