New road bike, punctures!! help!

faaj
faaj Posts: 66
edited April 2008 in Road beginners
Hey,

I brought and got a new giant scr 2 yesterday. Ive ridden it around 20 miles yesterday and 30 miles today, however today i seemed to have got 2 punctures each half an hour after each another. Ive fixed them with "leeches" puncture patches stuff however on my back wheel theres a slash not too big (1cm) the same which was shown on my inner tube. Now its all pumped up, the slash still shows and u can see very slightly the inner tube inside. Im wondering what do i do? Ive got the same michelin A2 tyres that came with my bike. If i am to buy some new tyres, which ones do you recommend because i don't really want anymore common punctures or have to replace my tyres as im on a budget (and im a beginner on road bikes, im not used to punctures etc. on my mountain bike)

Thanks looads
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Comments

  • doobie919
    doobie919 Posts: 119
    You definitely need a new tire if there's a slash and you can see the inner tube.

    Leaving that tire on is just asking for trouble.

    As far as what tyre to buy, i'm not sure, I just moved to the road world from the MTB world, so i'm not up to par yet with parts.
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  • fossyant
    fossyant Posts: 2,549
    Leeches don't work on road tyres as they can't take 100 PSI

    With a slash you'll need new tyres. I like Michelin Pro Race 2's about £18 each, but there are plenty of other good tyres out there !
  • Doobz
    Doobz Posts: 2,800
    alot of riders who are prone to punctures use Gator skins

    http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php ... 59s142p331

    or you can get some Deda Tre Grinta's

    http://www.shinybikes.com/bikes/deda-tr ... -tyre.html

    Can get a few and see how they go
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  • faaj
    faaj Posts: 66
    damnit tyres lasted me 2 days..... :( . Well i don't have that much cash (spent most on bike, assesories etc.) Well whats the diff between kenda and gatorskins ? As if i get new tyres then im hoping to get some long lasting ones (which hopefully wont slash so easily). Any other giant scr 2 users (With those tyres) have similar prob?
  • gkerr4
    gkerr4 Posts: 3,408
    sorry about this - but the standard fit tyres on most sub 1000 bikes are useless.

    heavy and poor lasting they will have virtually no puncture resistance. you will see an improvement on changing them to a decent brand - gatorskins are one that has been suggested but there are others too - personally I find that vittoria make tyres which are good value - the rubino model are under a tenner each and i find them very good - that said, i think you probably do get what you payfor and i accept that I might even benefit from a slightly more expensive tyre
  • Doobz
    Doobz Posts: 2,800
    Not sure on the tech behind the tyres but some people get more punctures then others. I have had to change one tube in about 1200 miles or so and that was because there was no rim tape on the damn rim so the tube burst on the spoke hole when I pumped it up.

    Can I ask how much you weigh? The reason I ask, is my mom's and her fella ride exactly the same roads, same line and he always seems to get punctures. He is a very tall and well built dude. My mom on the other hand is quite slim and I don't think she has ever had a puncture on her new bike. Come to think of it they did the Cheshire Cat Sportive this Sunday and he got a puncture then also..

    I weigh 70KG's and I use the Deda Tre Grinta on my bike and I have not honestly had any issues with them - they are cheap as chips too.

    I have just checked over them and not found any tears or slashes. So in over 1200 miles they are looking good.

    So all in all I reckon weight and tyre pressure have got alot to do with people getting punctures.

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    Doobz
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  • roger_merriman
    roger_merriman Posts: 6,165
    i dought the bike would make much differnace other than body position. your tires are <http://two-wheels.michelin.com/2w/front/affich.jsp?codeRubrique=2092004115348&codePage=2092004115348_10092004150323&lang=EN&gt; they should of been reasonbly robust.

    road tires go from heavy but almost unstoppable like the marthon + to light weight but fragile tires.
  • faaj
    faaj Posts: 66
    yeh i don't weigh much, around 60kg, uhm yeah ill prob get some new tyres, gatorskin looks nice ive seen the continental ultra gator for 11 quid on the net, any others thats are good? Im looking for <20quid each, thats not too heavy and has good puncture protection (loads of tyres say they have puncture protection, but im looking for good ones). As both (the front and abck) have punctured with the back one being sliced.

    Hmm looking at the link roger gave the tyres dont look too bad (the ones ive got on now)
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Take a low denom bill of currency, wet it, fold it in quarters, put it across the inside of the tire at the injury, inflate, ride to bike shop, buy new tire, install, use previous currency to pay for new tire.

    Bills here in the US work like a champ for this purpose.

    Been there, done that.
  • Lagavulin
    Lagavulin Posts: 1,688
    Of the tyres I've used, if I was after pure puncture resistance I'd opt fof the 23mm Michelin Krylion Carbons. I only had them on for a few months and they proved to be resistant to the crap the roads around me could through at my bike during October, November and parts of December. I've got a slight nick in the rear tyre but on cleaner roads and in a similar period I've virtually destroyed a rear GP4000 and Specialized Mondo Pro.

    I've been invited to join my first club run on Sunday and while my main concern is my lack of fitness during March/early April (and missing the Bahrain GP live), I'd hate to suffer a puncture first time out with them. I'm tempted to sling the Krylion Carbons back on.

    I hope Michelin sort out their production runs for the Pro Race 3 and have some Krylions or an equally hardy replacement available for next autumn/winter.
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  • alfablue
    alfablue Posts: 8,497
    I can't recommend Gatorskins or most other conti tyres, soft rubber, prone to wear and pnctures, despite the "guarantee", I use Specialized all conditions pro's, never punctured in 4000 miles, or the other suggestions are good, or for a real belt and braces approach, Schwalbe Marathons. Kenda are pretty cheap and nasty.
  • faaj
    faaj Posts: 66
    yeah however the michelin carbons are pretty expensive (near the 20ish mark). Ive seen reviews of gatorskins, theyre mostly good except the only prob is that they wear out quickly and loose their puncture resistance over some time.

    Gatorskins? or Vittoria Rubino? (and which rubino would suit best) Or any other major one for around 12-15 quid that ive missed out.
  • Lagavulin
    Lagavulin Posts: 1,688
    faaj wrote:
    yeah however the michelin carbons are pretty expensive (near the 20ish mark).
    Limited choice (black/yellow and 23C only) but Ribble have them for £15.35 (plus P&P).
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    2008 Wilier Izoard
  • Shadowduck
    Shadowduck Posts: 845
    gkerr4 wrote:
    sorry about this - but the standard fit tyres on most sub 1000 bikes are useless.

    heavy and poor lasting they will have virtually no puncture resistance. you will see an improvement on changing them to a decent brand - gatorskins are one that has been suggested but there are others too - personally I find that vittoria make tyres which are good value - the rubino model are under a tenner each and i find them very good - that said, i think you probably do get what you payfor and i accept that I might even benefit from a slightly more expensive tyre
    Mine cost £745 and came with Schwalbe Blizzards, which I'm pretty happy with... Not the most expensive tyres I'll grant you, but I've not had a single unplanned deflation despite winter commuting on sh1t-strewn roads. *knocks on wood*

    I think it's pushing it a bit to consign everything sub-£1K to the "bargain basement"
    Even if the voices aren't real, they have some very good ideas.
  • faaj
    faaj Posts: 66
    well ive found gatorskins cheap over here: http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/id30117.html

    still cant decide what to get..... according to wiggle gatorskins are the most popular
  • Shadowduck
    Shadowduck Posts: 845
    I can't speak from personal experience but Gatorskins have a reputation for being a bit lacking in grip. In fact, the reputation is why I can't speak from personal experience!

    I currently have Conti Sport Contact on one bike and the aforementioned Schwalbe Blizzard Sport on the other, haven't had a single spontaneous underpressure with either so I'm pretty happy.

    *knocks on wood again, burns offering to the tyre gods*
    Even if the voices aren't real, they have some very good ideas.
  • Nuggs
    Nuggs Posts: 1,804
    Once you have your new tyres, make sure you keep them up to pressure. It will help to resist the ingress of sharp objects...
  • yorkshireraw
    yorkshireraw Posts: 1,632
    fossyant wrote:
    Leeches don't work on road tyres as they can't take 100 PSI

    I've used instant patches (stick on, no glue) on road tyres at high pressure and not had any problems with them yet. Subsequent punctures (elsewhere on the tubes) have given chance to look at the patches and they seem fine at the moment - if anyone has had a differing experience though I'd be happy to hear it.
  • Shadowduck
    Shadowduck Posts: 845
    YorkshireRaw wrote:
    *snip* ... if anyone has had a differing experience though I'd be happy to hear it.
    I've had mixed experiences with pre-glued patches. Some (Park Tools for example) seem to work fine but I've had others (Slime patches come to mind) that wrinkle up and come adrift over time - if you can get them to stick in the first place. These days I carry the Park Tools ones with me (in case I get a hole in the spare tube) and have a traditional separate-glue kit at home which is what I would use for preference.
    Even if the voices aren't real, they have some very good ideas.
  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    Shadowduck wrote:
    gkerr4 wrote:
    sorry about this - but the standard fit tyres on most sub 1000 bikes are useless.

    heavy and poor lasting they will have virtually no puncture resistance. you will see an improvement on changing them to a decent brand - gatorskins are one that has been suggested but there are others too - personally I find that vittoria make tyres which are good value - the rubino model are under a tenner each and i find them very good - that said, i think you probably do get what you payfor and i accept that I might even benefit from a slightly more expensive tyre
    Mine cost £745 and came with Schwalbe Blizzards, which I'm pretty happy with... Not the most expensive tyres I'll grant you, but I've not had a single unplanned deflation despite winter commuting on sh1t-strewn roads. *knocks on wood*

    I think it's pushing it a bit to consign everything sub-£1K to the "bargain basement"

    Schwalbe Blizzards, cheap tyres at £7 each - 'nuff said.
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  • Shadowduck
    Shadowduck Posts: 845
    redddraggon wrote:
    Shadowduck wrote:
    gkerr4 wrote:
    sorry about this - but the standard fit tyres on most sub 1000 bikes are useless.

    heavy and poor lasting they will have virtually no puncture resistance. you will see an improvement on changing them to a decent brand - gatorskins are one that has been suggested but there are others too - personally I find that vittoria make tyres which are good value - the rubino model are under a tenner each and i find them very good - that said, i think you probably do get what you payfor and i accept that I might even benefit from a slightly more expensive tyre
    Mine cost £745 and came with Schwalbe Blizzards, which I'm pretty happy with... Not the most expensive tyres I'll grant you, but I've not had a single unplanned deflation despite winter commuting on sh1t-strewn roads. *knocks on wood*

    I think it's pushing it a bit to consign everything sub-£1K to the "bargain basement"

    Schwalbe Blizzards, cheap tyres at £7 each - 'nuff said.
    Aye, as I said...
    Shadowduck wrote:
    *snip* ... Not the most expensive tyres I'll grant you ... *snip*
    But I was taking isssue with this...
    gkerr4 wrote:
    *snip* ... the standard fit tyres on most sub 1000 bikes are useless. heavy and poor lasting they will have virtually no puncture resistance ... *snip*
    ...by pointing out that the Blizzards are absolutely fine, so far as I can see. The price is irrelevant - they came on a sub-£1000 bike.

    It doesn't have to be expensive to be good kit. Gear snobbery grinds my nads... :evil:
    Even if the voices aren't real, they have some very good ideas.
  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    Shadowduck wrote:
    redddraggon wrote:
    Shadowduck wrote:
    gkerr4 wrote:
    sorry about this - but the standard fit tyres on most sub 1000 bikes are useless.

    heavy and poor lasting they will have virtually no puncture resistance. you will see an improvement on changing them to a decent brand - gatorskins are one that has been suggested but there are others too - personally I find that vittoria make tyres which are good value - the rubino model are under a tenner each and i find them very good - that said, i think you probably do get what you payfor and i accept that I might even benefit from a slightly more expensive tyre
    Mine cost £745 and came with Schwalbe Blizzards, which I'm pretty happy with... Not the most expensive tyres I'll grant you, but I've not had a single unplanned deflation despite winter commuting on sh1t-strewn roads. *knocks on wood*

    I think it's pushing it a bit to consign everything sub-£1K to the "bargain basement"

    Schwalbe Blizzards, cheap tyres at £7 each - 'nuff said.
    Aye, as I said...
    Shadowduck wrote:
    *snip* ... Not the most expensive tyres I'll grant you ... *snip*
    But I was taking isssue with this...
    gkerr4 wrote:
    *snip* ... the standard fit tyres on most sub 1000 bikes are useless. heavy and poor lasting they will have virtually no puncture resistance ... *snip*
    ...by pointing out that the Blizzards are absolutely fine, so far as I can see. The price is irrelevant - they came on a sub-£1000 bike.

    It doesn't have to be expensive to be good kit. Gear snobbery grinds my nads... :evil:

    Sorry I guess I was reading what I wanted to read. I use cheap Conti Ultra Sports, with so called poor puncture protection and poor grip all through the winter and I've not had one problem.

    I reckon puncture prevention is better than getting a so called "resistant" tyre - just don't ride in the gutter.
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  • homercles
    homercles Posts: 499
    bikers46 wrote:
    Take a low denom bill of currency, wet it, fold it in quarters, put it across the inside of the tire at the injury, inflate, ride to bike shop, buy new tire, install, use previous currency to pay for new tire.

    Bills here in the US work like a champ for this purpose.

    Been there, done that.

    Can I use a high denomination bill if I'm feeling flush??
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  • musto_skiff
    musto_skiff Posts: 394
    Are these what you are calling leeches?

    http://www.parktool.com/products/detail ... tem=GP%2D2

    Are you saying these are no good for road bikes?

    I hope not as I have just purchased a pa :? ck
  • Shadowduck
    Shadowduck Posts: 845
    redddraggon wrote:
    Sorry I guess I was reading what I wanted to read.
    No worries. :mrgreen:
    musto_skiff wrote:
    Are these what you are calling leeches?

    http://www.parktool.com/products/detail ... tem=GP%2D2

    Are you saying these are no good for road bikes?

    I hope not as I have just purchased a pa :? ck
    Those look like the same ones I have*, they should be fine.

    *Not 100% sure 'cos it's so long since I've used them!
    Even if the voices aren't real, they have some very good ideas.
  • Alibran
    Alibran Posts: 370
    redddraggon wrote:
    I reckon puncture prevention is better than getting a so called "resistant" tyre - just don't ride in the gutter.

    I've wondered about this too. When I was looking at getting a road bike, I read so much about punctures that I talked to my LBS about putting on resistant tyres straight away. I also had to ask them what you do about punctures because in the time I've spent riding MTBs and hybrids, I've never got one and never even bothered carrying a repair kit. I was told I was just very lucky because MTBs and hybrids are no less likely to get punctures than road bikes.

    This got me thinking, maybe I'm not lucky. Maybe I'm just careful where I put the wheels. So I've kept the tyres that came with the bike, got myself a couple of spare tubes, tyre levers and a mini pump, and I'm hoping for the best. I'm just dreading the day when I have to use them and find I can't get the tyre off!!
  • Shadowduck
    Shadowduck Posts: 845
    Alibran wrote:
    This got me thinking, maybe I'm not lucky. Maybe I'm just careful where I put the wheels. So I've kept the tyres that came with the bike, got myself a couple of spare tubes, tyre levers and a mini pump, and I'm hoping for the best. I'm just dreading the day when I have to use them and find I can't get the tyre off!!
    Might be worth having a practice - it's not something you want to figure out for the first time in the dark and rain by the side of the road.*

    Staying out of the gutter helps immensely but it's not 100% and tyres do make a difference. The original Tiogas on my hybrid used to average about a flat a week; since I binned them and fitted the Contis I've been fine, all with no change in my riding.

    *knocks on wood, burns offering to tyre gods, attaches charms to spokes*

    *Of course, it will be dark and raining. And you'll be late for something important.
    Even if the voices aren't real, they have some very good ideas.
  • faaj
    faaj Posts: 66
    musto_skiff wrote:
    Are these what you are calling leeches?

    http://www.parktool.com/products/detail ... tem=GP%2D2

    Are you saying these are no good for road bikes?

    I hope not as I have just purchased a pa :? ck

    Nope these are leeches:
    http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yrn_104169

    Theyve got thick padding so they supposedly are pushed firm onto the inner tube by the tyre.

    About the don't ride in gutters, yesterday i was riding on the sides of the roads accidently through a few gutters and it didnt cause me any punctures, it was when i got onto the non-road cycle path (smooth and flat) did i get my 2 punctures (on the same path half an hour between each other). :?
  • redddraggon
    redddraggon Posts: 10,862
    faaj wrote:
    musto_skiff wrote:
    Are these what you are calling leeches?

    http://www.parktool.com/products/detail ... tem=GP%2D2

    Are you saying these are no good for road bikes?

    I hope not as I have just purchased a pa :? ck

    Nope these are leeches:
    http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yrn_104169

    Theyve got thick padding so they supposedly are pushed firm onto the inner tube by the tyre.

    About the don't ride in gutters, yesterday i was riding on the sides of the roads accidently through a few gutters and it didnt cause me any punctures, it was when i got onto the non-road cycle path (smooth and flat) did i get my 2 punctures (on the same path half an hour between each other). :?

    Well they are just like gutters.......

    Full of all sorts of things to prevent you cycling, like dog walkers and chavs piling earth "to do jumps" on their £5 BMXs.
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  • faaj
    faaj Posts: 66
    yeah your right i never go on them in summer as theyre just soo full of famiily cyclists etc.

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