How essential is a winter training bike?

robbie the roadie

I currently ride a Specialized S Works E5 with fulcrum wheels and ultegra/105 bits and on Sundays club run was asked if I had a winter training bike. I answered ‘no’ and my fellow rider said ‘surely your not going to ride that through the winter?’ looking a bit bemused.

I come from a mountain biking background I have always been a bit surprised by this supposed need for a winter training bike. Can a bit of road spray really be so detrimental to a bike? Providing you use some clip on mudguards to keep the worst of it off and take the time to clean your bike when you get home and give it a good strip down clean every now and then I’m not sure.

I was however slightly taken by the idea of a winter bike but after pricing bits up to build my old frame back up even with budget/second hand parts it is now looking very uneconomical. The cost of assembling the winter bike is far higher than that of replacing the bits on my existing bike as they wear out, not to mention the expense of running another bike. I know I could, and have, looked into getting a second hand bike but this will obviously incur the cost of running this bike to as parts wear out on it also. Money I’d rather spend on ‘pimping’ my S Works.

In an ideal world it might be nice to keep our Sunday best wrapped up in bubble wrap throughout the winter months but for us cyclists on a bit of a budget is it really worth it? I haven’t really formed a conclusive answer in my own mind as I can see it might be nice to have a winter bike so am interested to hear your thoughts.

Rob

Kléber

A good bike will last longer if it's spared the winter grime but then again if your drivetrain wears a bit over winter, the cost needn't be high compared to having a whole new bike, besides the drivetrain on the winter bike will get worn out too.

I think it's just an old-skool thing. In the winter, you ride slower, people like mudguards and wider gear ratios. But if you like riding, why not use the bike you enjoy?

Maybe think about some cheaper wheels, it'll be nice for next year when you can go back to the Fulcrums and rims can wear faster in bad conditions.

JustRidecp

Dont listen to the scaremongers. If you enjoy riding your bike, ride it all year round. Slap some race blades on for winter and be a bit more committed with the cleaning. I've done two winters on my bike now with no bother from salt or grit, just cleaned it more. Also, the old man's done 35+ winters on his road bike with zero frame damage (531) and is only just replacing components now!!

andyp

I don't think it's necessary to have one. It is more of a nice to have than a must have. If you are prepared to put in the time and effort to clean your bike after every run (and this is probably only necessary if it's got wet) then you should be okay.

I'd echo what Kleber says though, get a pair of cheaper wheels and consider putting on a different chain and cassette as it's the drivetrain components that really suffer in the winter.

I use one bike for the winter and for sportives in the summer. I swap over a lot of components though, i.e. wheels, chainset, rear mech, cassette and chain.

Eat My Dust

I just buy a new bike every year!!! much more fun!

alan_sherman

It used to be that you used your old race bike and componenets in the winter. Saves the effort of cleanign he ace bike and allows you to prep the race bike or the new season.

I have shed of a winter bike which is great as it has mudguards, so i don't get so dirty. Also it is heavy so my legs get better training. Far and away the biggest advantage though is that it doesn't get cleaned! Saves me hours.......

Whether I would go out and spend £400 on a winter bike just for the purpose I don't know as I have a 15 year old bike that is perfect for the purpose anyway (and almost worthless to sell on).

AndyGates

In the old days you couldn't get decent mudguards for close-clearance race frames, and tubs were de rigeur. Tubs are a mare to fix on a wet sleety day when sticky flint has found its spiritual home, and a wet gritty arse loses its hardman appeal about mid-October...

...hence a fatter-tyred, lazier-geometry hack bike with clearane and drillings for mudguards.

robbie the roadie

Thanks for the comments. Right so my understanding of all this is, if you have something already that will be more suitable for winter use then use that instead but it's not really worth buying or building something up especially. Just get some race blades and clean the bike more.

giant_man

it depends on what you want really, I personally couldn't spend 5 or 6 grand on a nice bike only to have it spoilt on the crappy winter roads over here. That's why i would always have a winter bike.

Pagem

not sure if it's already been mentioned above as i've not read all the replies but there is the issue of riding a heavier bike through the winter which makes getting on your race bike oh so sweet.

the difference you feel lining up on your first race of the season on your light race bike after having spent 100's of miles on your heavy winter hack is awesome...

heavymental

Riding in the winter? Ew. Put your feet up, smoke a pipe and gaze at your shiny bike til summer comes around again.

alfablue

You could buy one of those Ribble winter builds for £395 at the moment - you would be hard pressed to build up your own for that.

robbie the roadie

giant mancp wrote:

it depends on what you want really, I personally couldn't spend 5 or 6 grand on a nice bike only to have it spoilt on the crappy winter roads over here. That's why i would always have a winter bike.

As it's unlikely I will ever be on the start line for TdF or the Giro Idon't think I could justify that much on a bike anyway even if I could afford it :shock:

robbie the roadie

Alfablue - they do indeed look good value bikes but it come back to economy really. I can replace my chainrings, cassette and chain a few times over for £395. Something which I would have to do at somepoint on my best bike anyway without the expense of having to replace it all on a winter bike as well

leonlikestrees

I have almost always had a winter bike for a few reasons:

- it doubles up as my commuter/ shopping bike
- I have fatter, heavier and more puncture resistent tyres on it
- I have wider gear ratios
- it has a more relaxed geometry (for long, slow rides!)
- it has mudguards and a rack
- it's heavier, which makes my 'race' bike feel faster

If I didn't need a commuter though, I'd just use the same bike and swap the tyres and cassette out for the winter.

One thing I;ve never understood is why people build winter bikes with really cheap drive components. Something like Dura-Ace or Ultegra is more than up to a winter of abuse, but cheap stuff like Sora will be destroyed. I think that is definitely a false economy.[/list]

Monty Dog

I agree about low rent groupsets lasting nothing like as long as better quality equipment. After a few years, when you hanker for a new bike, then keep the old one as your training bike. I only try and buy new parts for the 'best' bike and keep the 'hand-me-downs' for the others - makes people wonder how my training bike has Record/Chorus parts and carbon cranks. You can get 10+ years out of good quality parts whereas cheaper bits will have corroded to oblivion in a couple of winters. The quality of finish and materials on the better stuff means they don't wear out as quickly too.

Haynes

This used to perplex me somewhat but when you do get a really decent bike you want to keep it that way.

If you can pick and choose when you ride and youre prepared to give it a thorough clean then 1 decent bike is manageable. I commute 35miles a day and ride a carbon 10 speed bike on dry days but otherwise its a steel fixie.

Reasons to have a winter bike:
1. Keeps race bike fresh and sweet for racing.
2. A bit more weight is preferable on windy days with slippery roads.
3. Full guards are a must to keep than sh*tty salty muddy slime off you, not just the water.
4. Adorne a winter bike with more lights and reflectors, bigger pump and bigger seat bag with spare tubes, tools etc.
5. Stronger, more expendable frame such as steel for bashing up and down potholes in the dark.
6. Cant be bothered to clean after every ride, in the dark, every night.
7. High miles in the wet and salt etc very quickly destroys wheel rims, wheel bearings,
bbs, cassettes and chains etc.
8. If you do come off in the wet then at least its not your best bike getting trashed.
9. Forget rolling resistance, use wider stronger tyres not those expensive racing slicks.
10. Lots of spokes so you can keep the wheels true and give a more complant ride.
11. More likely to ride on gravel cycle paths.
12. Dont bother fitting computer or hrm as the wet only does them in.
13. Do you really want to ride your best bike through those flooded roads?
14. And, you do get a buzz in the spring when the best bike emerges from hybernation, its lighter, more lively and in good shape.

overthehill

I think Sora is really meant for the "recreational" cyclist. 105 is more than up to the job .

leonlikestrees

overthehill wrote:

I think Sora is really meant for the "recreational" cyclist. 105 is more than up to the job .

well, maybe. The sealing is better on the DA hubs and bottom brackets, and the steel used in the bearings is better quality, so they'll definitely last longer. Front mechs seem to last forever whichever model you get, but cheaper rear mechs can go a bit floppy quite quickley. A 105 cassette will last just as long as a DA (if not longer). I've been through 3 sets of Ultegra STI's, but the DA ones just keep on going. I think I'd mix and match if it was me.

Mavic CXP22 rims seem to be really good as well, for a nice mid-priced rim for winter use

Kléber

Monty Dog wrote:

I only try and buy new parts for the 'best' bike and keep the 'hand-me-downs' for the others - makes people wonder how my training bike has Record/Chorus parts and carbon cranks. You can get 10+ years out of good quality parts.

Pure class 8)

...and sensible too, I've had Mirage and Veloce bottom brackets seize after months, but now I have a Record one that's going strong after years of abuse.

giant_man

leonlikestrees wrote:

I have almost always had a winter bike for a few reasons:

- it doubles up as my commuter/ shopping bike
- I have fatter, heavier and more puncture resistent tyres on it
- I have wider gear ratios
- it has a more relaxed geometry (for long, slow rides!)
- it has mudguards and a rack
- it's heavier, which makes my 'race' bike feel faster

If I didn't need a commuter though, I'd just use the same bike and swap the tyres and cassette out for the winter.

One thing I;ve never understood is why people build winter bikes with really cheap drive components. Something like Dura-Ace or Ultegra is more than up to a winter of abuse, but cheap stuff like Sora will be destroyed. I think that is definitely a false economy.[/list]

yes agreeing with what's said here!

smiorgan

I wouldn't worry about it - I rode for 3 winters on one bike without the clearance for mudguards, no problems if you don't mind a wet behind. However...

- when the jockey wheels are full of winter gak the drivetrain isn't as smooth, and cleaning it is an exercise in futility
- raceblades won't cover the brake bridge, and my rear calipers seized up (soak in WD40 did the trick)
- my front mechs kept sticking from being covered in grime off the front wheel
- your paintwork might get scuffed up more.

Last winter I rode a fixie with full mudguards, to get around those problems and because I was curious. This winter I'll ride a nicer fixie (pomp), with mudguards. But my decision was about enjoying the fixed bike, not worrying about the geared one.

robbie the roadie

I do actually own a pompino (single speed not fixed) with full mudguards for the really cr*p days but not sure how practical it would be on a club run when everyone else has gears for when the pace lifts.

eh

Definitely get some new cheap wheels since your Fulcrums will be in bits by the end the winter.

I don't buy the argument that more expensive stuff lasts longer. The Dura ace drivetrain is primarily made out of aluminium which wears at a horribly fast rate in winter conditions. Sora is mainly steel and is much happier in these conditions, further it is less fussy of setup due to being 8 speed. However, you just have to accept that salted roads knackers kit in on road bikes, in a way that just doesn't happen to mtbs.

leonlikestrees

eh wrote:

Definitely get some new cheap wheels since your Fulcrums will be in bits by the end the winter.

I don't buy the argument that more expensive stuff lasts longer. The Dura ace drivetrain is primarily made out of aluminium which wears at a horribly fast rate in winter conditions. Sora is mainly steel and is much happier in these conditions, further it is less fussy of setup due to being 8 speed. However, you just have to accept that salted roads knackers kit in on road bikes, in a way that just doesn't happen to mtbs.

I agree to an extent - chainrings and cassettes may last longer than DA (remember the DA ones have special coatings, and sora is probably a cheap steel). Even if they don't, they're cheaper enough that it would be more economical.

It's more the bearings, pivots, etc. On the cheaper stuff this will get knackared pretty quickly. On something better, it will last longer.

smiorgan

robbie the roadie wrote:

I do actually own a pompino (single speed not fixed) with full mudguards for the really cr*p days but not sure how practical it would be on a club run when everyone else has gears for when the pace lifts.

I thought riding without 'guards with a group in winter was bad ettiquette?

robbie the roadie

Well haven't been out in the winter with my current club yet as only joined recently but with the poor weather this summer some people have been out on their 'winter bikes' and these were kitted out with clip on guards. I suppose that these days it's actually quite hard to find a frame that will take full guards unless you buy a dedicated winter frame but most people seem to just use their old race frame.

As far as I'm aware it is only still considered to be the pinacle of rudeness if your in the CTC

leonlikestrees

When I was living in Canada, I joined a SUnday club run without mudguards on, and they made me ride on the back all day!

Ale

I commuted 20mls a day on a Ribble winter bike with full guards (105 components), only cleaning it at weekends. At the end of the winter, I did buy it a new chain and cassette, but I found the main thing that needed attention was the cables and guides. They all (both brake and gears) needed replacing.

I wouldn't ride in the wet without full guards though. That wet arse feeling isn't good!

giant_man

Personally I wouldnt' ride in the winter without at least Shimano 105 or Campag Centaur and of course mudguards!

passout

It's only worth it if you really put in the miles over winter or it doubles up as a commuter bike (as stated above). Personally I wouldn't bother. I'd use winter wheels and keep everything else the same. I don't even use mudguards in winter and it's never bothered me - just wear thick tights!