Decent locks for my situation

daniel_b
daniel_b Posts: 11,967
edited July 2007 in Commuting chat
Hi guys,

another question for you....

I will be riding to work soon, once I have my mudguards fitted, and as it's a cctv'd, pretty secure site I don't need anything major.

I was thinking of getting this: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.a ... 5300006185

I have found another site where I can get 2 for £20 delivered, so thought it would be useful - do you think it fits the bill?

I mistakenly bought 2 d locks from Sainsbury's, and they have both broken, in that they rarely unlock, if you can get them locked, so I'm going to have to bin them.

I alreday have a decent cable lock, if that's the right word, a 1.8m length of cable with loops in both end, can anyone recommend a reasonable but cheapish D lock I can use in conjunction with this, for when we leave our bikes in town?
The combined value of our town bikes is around £200, so I won't be spending £60 on a D lock.

All replies appreciated!

Many thanks

Dan
Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
Scott CR1 SL 12
Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
Scott Foil 18
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Comments

  • BentMikey
    BentMikey Posts: 4,895
    Before you buy any more locks, you might like to watch the London Programme on ITV1 on Tuesday 24th July. Gone in 60 seconds, the bike crime wave. Apparently it's about lock testing being not very good, or so someone posted.

    And those Abus locks you posted? Don't use them for locking your bike, IMO.
  • turnerc99
    turnerc99 Posts: 61
    There was a pretty good review of bike locks in C+ a couple of months back - I'll see if I've still got it at home. If you want, I can probably scan it and email it to you.

    C
  • ChrisLS
    ChrisLS Posts: 2,749
    ...I have something like the Abus lock that I use in very low risk situations(if there is such a thing)ie: outside a village tea shop, or a qiuck dash into a shop. I would never leave my bike for any length of time with this lock...
    ...all the way...'til the wheels fall off and burn...
  • daniel_b
    daniel_b Posts: 11,967
    Thanks chaps for both of your replies,

    TurnerC, yes if you have got that copy and it's not too much trouble it would be much appreciated :D

    My mail addy is: bx16VAThotmail.co.uk

    Cheers

    Dan
    Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
    Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
    Scott CR1 SL 12
    Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
    Scott Foil 18
  • Its not just the cost of your bikes - its the cost of replacing them too.

    At work (in secure parking) I use a Sold Secure Silver Abus D-lock and cable, but if I lock on the street I bring out the Kryptonite faghetaboutit (sp?!?!) which although it weighs significantly more than my bike!, esp when combined with the D-lock and cable makes my bike pretty difficult to steal.

    You've got to think about how spending £70ish on a quality lock compares to the hassle of coming back, finding your bike gone, and then having to buy a new one etc etc etc...
    Sweat saves blood.
    Erwin Rommel
  • WyS
    WyS Posts: 254
    If a bike thief wants ur bike they will have it, or have bits off it, or break it trying to steal it, or just break it.

    Just dont leave it in silly places.

    ;]
  • wai
    wai Posts: 36
    I can recommend the onguard pitbull mini d-lock as a cheap and not too heavy piece of security:
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=19088

    Good enough to secure the rear wheel to those cycle park loops or a railing. Probably a good idea to use in conjunction with a cable lock for the front wheel.

    The big weakness of ulocks are bottle jacks, which can bust them open very quickly. Using a mini dlock, in theory, doesn't give them room to fit inside the hoop to break it.

    For larger d-locks, I saw a product like a metal bar that attaches across the d-lock to stop this type of attack, but you'd have to know how wide your d-lock was in order to buy the right sized one.
  • daniel_b
    daniel_b Posts: 11,967
    wai wrote:
    I can recommend the onguard pitbull mini d-lock as a cheap and not too heavy piece of security:
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=19088

    Thanks for that Wai - would I not be advised to go for this one instead, seems to be identical, but comes with an etra cable - or is the lock itself not as good?

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=19089
    Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
    Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
    Scott CR1 SL 12
    Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
    Scott Foil 18
  • wai
    wai Posts: 36
    Looks like a good deal - the D lock isn't a mini and hence not as secure, but if you like the idea of getting a cable 'free' then I'm sure you'll be happy with it.
  • ThePiglit
    ThePiglit Posts: 94
    Try the Oxford Magnum 2000. About 40 quid but would require serious kit to take apart.
    Also: have you thought about insuring the bikes? You have to have an approved lock and it costs about 10percent of the value of the bike, but as long as that bike is secured to an "immovable object" it is covered. Lots of insurers on the net. I did mine through Pavilion and also got a Recovery thing for an extra 12 quid.

    Also remember that despite the nihilism of "if they want it they'll take it" (and isn't there always a hint or admiration in that?) you could also add "if it isn't too much effort". Most thives are opportunists with neither the right kit or skills to steal anything that is properly secured.

    Having said that when I lived in London a while back there was a gang operating out of a van whose kit included hydraulically operated bolt cutters! They were of course, nicked eventually.
  • Hairy Jock
    Hairy Jock Posts: 558
    There is a guide to locks here, just remember that generally in life you only get what you pay for, if it looks to good to be true then it probably is.
    **************
    Best advice I ever got was "better get a bike then"
    Cycle commuting since 1994. Blog with cycle bits.
    Also with the old C+ crowd at Cycle Chat.
  • dondare
    dondare Posts: 2,113
    A good lock and chain will cost you at least £50. Anything less than £30 is about as useful as knotted string.

    Buy a good lock and keep your bike.
    This post contains traces of nuts.
  • turnerc99
    turnerc99 Posts: 61
    Have you looked in the review section on here?

    http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/ ... ries/locks

    That might give you some added info. I haven't found my copy of C+ yet, but I'll keep looking for you.

    Cheers,
    Chris
  • http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/accessories/locks/product/new-york-fahgettaboudit-chain-16522#user_reviews

    Thats the bad boy I use, and locking on the street add the faggetaboutit D-lock. It is ridiculous how beefy the lock is, but like the test said - bring out the powertools and in just under 90seconds they had defeated that chain.

    I tend to work on the principle that the bike looks like soooooooo much hassle to try and nick, with 2 beefy, different locks on, that no-one will bother. *crosses fingers* :D
    Sweat saves blood.
    Erwin Rommel
  • bigdawg
    bigdawg Posts: 672
    OK, some manufacturers will soon be losing their security accreditation (sold secure, thatcham etc..) as they have been proven to not withstand assault to the required level of time. This is also tied in with the programme mentioned above.

    THe fagedaboutit is one of those locks, a friend got through one, with a normal pair of bolt croppers, and i believe it was in about 30 seconds. And before anyone says theives dont go round carrying bolt croppers, two kids (12) were stopped by police, on a stolen bmx, carrying bolt croppers...12 year olds.

    Go to you tube and search for Zanx, theres about a page of videos of him breaking in less than a minute, with ease, thatcham and sold secure locks, using things from any hardware store.
    dont knock on death\'s door.....

    Ring the bell and leg it...that really pi**es him off....
  • I use a Garrison Mult-i-lock (local hardware shop), cost £25 but got 10% discount, and a Squire 1.8m cable £7(halfrauds).
    I've also got a van-safe double linked padlock and motorbike chain ( Cobra-8 ) from Hewdens (now taken over) which weighs a ton, it'll tip me off the back of bike if I put it in me rucksack ! Best part of that one is it should have cost £40 but as me brother worked for them I got it for £20 and then a week later I got a refund ! Use that one when I know I'm going to leave bike in a dodgy area. Probably a bit OTT but once you've had a bike stolen...... :evil:
  • One tip, do not EVER use a cable lock of any kind, even an armoured one, the range of tools you can use to break these is huge, scissors, secateurs, tin snips, wire cutters, pliers, pincers.....etc.

    Basically you can go out with the tools to break into most cable locks and still not get done for geing "Equipped" because the tools are so widely used.

    Like someone said earlier, watch the ITV programme on Tuesday 24th at 7:30pm (or Sky 993) and learn a few things about how much security companies care about YOU.
  • bigdawg wrote:
    OK, some manufacturers will soon be losing their security accreditation (sold secure, thatcham etc..) as they have been proven to not withstand assault to the required level of time. This is also tied in with the programme mentioned above.

    THe fagedaboutit is one of those locks, a friend got through one, with a normal pair of bolt croppers, and i believe it was in about 30 seconds. And before anyone says theives dont go round carrying bolt croppers, two kids (12) were stopped by police, on a stolen bmx, carrying bolt croppers...12 year olds.

    Go to you tube and search for Zanx, theres about a page of videos of him breaking in less than a minute, with ease, thatcham and sold secure locks, using things from any hardware store.


    I would put money on NOBODY losing their accreditation. Sold Secure would have to drop 95% of their current Motorcycles Gold lineup and that would spell financial disaster.
  • Chris L
    Chris L Posts: 826
    Crikey! I haven't posted for a while, but since this is one of my hobby horses, I'll do you the honour.

    Something I haven't seen in the above posts is the question of how one locks one's bike. For my money it's a D-lock where at least one prong goes through the rear triangle and rear wheel and the thing you're locking it to.

    If you have QR skewers and seat bolt, pop the front wheel off and combine with the back-wheel-locking-up thing. A QR seat post bolt means it's best to take the seat and pin with you. (Don't use paint to remind you of how far to put the seat pin into the frame - paint moves - a small scratch is much better.)

    If you've got a new-ish bike, wrap the frame in black electrical tape. It's a small weight penalty and your bike will look like a complete dog.

    The nirvana of bike security is (sadly) to lock your bike next to a better one, preferably poorly locked.

    Good luck with your commute. Work will be different once you've started. Remember not to stuff yourself senseless when you get in: if consumed calories > burnt calories, you'll get fatter whether you bike to work or not.
  • Chris L wrote:
    Crikey! I haven't posted for a while, but since this is one of my hobby horses, I'll do you the honour.

    Something I haven't seen in the above posts is the question of how one locks one's bike. For my money it's a D-lock where at least one prong goes through the rear triangle and rear wheel and the thing you're locking it to.

    If you have QR skewers and seat bolt, pop the front wheel off and combine with the back-wheel-locking-up thing. A QR seat post bolt means it's best to take the seat and pin with you. (Don't use paint to remind you of how far to put the seat pin into the frame - paint moves - a small scratch is much better.)

    If you've got a new-ish bike, wrap the frame in black electrical tape. It's a small weight penalty and your bike will look like a complete dog.

    The nirvana of bike security is (sadly) to lock your bike next to a better one, preferably poorly locked.

    Good luck with your commute. Work will be different once you've started. Remember not to stuff yourself senseless when you get in: if consumed calories > burnt calories, you'll get fatter whether you bike to work or not.

    Sage advice and often overlooked. Fill that D lock! :)
  • By Chris L
    The nirvana of bike security is (sadly) to lock your bike next to a better one, preferably poorly locked.

    I disagree to some extent, I think the nirvana of bike security is to make it look like way too much hassle to steal. I use a D-Lock and faggettaboutit. The only bike theft I have experienced was when the rusty clunker next to my bike had its Halfrauds combi lock ripped apart and was nicked.

    My bike hadn't even been touched.
    Sweat saves blood.
    Erwin Rommel
  • ahediel
    ahediel Posts: 14
    Your faghettaboudit chain is shown on the trailer for the ITV1 programme Gone in 60 Seconds a Bike Crime Wave.

    It is being aired at 7.30pm on ITV1 (London & South East) Sky Channel 993. To watch it before that take a look at you tube

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Ip5QoMFyi0

    Or search Gone in 60 seconds bike crime wave and you will get all 3 trailers.

    On trailer 3 you will also see a D Lock dispatched in seconds The Faghettabouit chain goes in 11 SECONDS. With, no not power tools, just a hand held pair of bolt croppers.
  • oh bugger. thats rubbish.

    i can't believe I parted with £100 for such a piece of tat, it weighs more than my bike but does bugger all apart from look big. Sold Secure gold rating my @ss
    Sweat saves blood.
    Erwin Rommel
  • ahediel
    ahediel Posts: 14
    Sold Secure CO Dr Martin White (Now left) actually admitted to MCN (Motorcycle News) "We do not attack locks as rigorously as a thief would. We are attacking locks to a typical level that we see works"

    Works for who??? Not the end user!

    Kryptonite were contacted and there has been alot of replies on their blog. Take a look, you may not be able to post though, beacuse they are moderating everything.

    It's time the testing bodies brought up the standards - They SHOULD test as rigorously as a theif would. Not pass chains. cable locks and D Locks which can be cropped in seconds.
  • Hairy Jock
    Hairy Jock Posts: 558
    At the end of the day if someone really wants your bike they will get it, your best hope is that there is another bike near by that is easier to get at and/or more desirable, and that the bastard is satisfied with just taking that.
    **************
    Best advice I ever got was "better get a bike then"
    Cycle commuting since 1994. Blog with cycle bits.
    Also with the old C+ crowd at Cycle Chat.
  • daniel_b
    daniel_b Posts: 11,967
    Bloody hell, this thread is quite the eye opener :shock:

    After much debate, I have decided to go for this one:
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=19086

    The most at risk times will be when it is both mine and my gf's bike locked up, and I wanted one that was big enough to go through both frames and an immoveable object.

    At work I know it will be no issue, a guy here has a nice £500 Giant XTC SE, and just locks that up with a cimple little combination lock, so this will do fine for my Carrera.

    I also had a look at insurance, but if I wanted to insure the 4 most valuable my bikes, it was going to come in at £180 per year.

    Cheers

    Dan
    Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
    Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
    Scott CR1 SL 12
    Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
    Scott Foil 18
  • ahediel
    ahediel Posts: 14
    If you are buying a D Lock make sure it has a 16mm shackle.

    Also then make sure you leave NO space when you lock it up. Not even enough for a tangerine. (otherwise it can be attacked & broken)
  • Hairy Jock wrote:
    At the end of the day if someone really wants your bike they will get it, your best hope is that there is another bike near by that is easier to get at and/or more desirable, and that the bastard is satisfied with just taking that.


    I have to butt in here I'm afraid. Surely the phrase "If they want it more than you want to keep it, they'll have it" is more accurate. One example, I have a Kawasaki ZZR1100 outside my house, scumbags have attempted to steal it on several occasions but have failed due to me having some pretty hardcore physical security on it. Now it would be safe to say that they wanted to take it, bit I wanted to keep it even more. If they wanted to take it more than I wanted to keep it, they'd get the petrol grinder out and maybe pay the consequences of making lots of noise. It's not so black and white as we think and to admit defeat before even trying to beat the dirtbags merely disempowers you.
  • daniel_b
    daniel_b Posts: 11,967
    Had the onguard lock delivered today, just before my workplace was flooded, and it looks very impressive, and feels very well made.

    I think it's physical appearance must count for a lot, but it does feel well made also.

    Thanks for everyones help - much appreciated.

    Cheers

    Dan
    Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
    Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
    Scott CR1 SL 12
    Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
    Scott Foil 18
  • delcol
    delcol Posts: 2,848
    these guys up here near me are prety cheap for good locks thats if a lock is any good after reading this thread... and watching that link...

    http://cyclexpress.co.uk/categories/Bik ... Locks.aspx