Beginners bikes

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Comments

  • dcp1975
    dcp1975 Posts: 739
    Definitely put a decent pair of tyres, the XC Pro's were great on my Rockhopper, anyway how much do you think i will get for it? Have a look here.....

    http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Specialized-Rockh ... dZViewItem
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Half its RRP plus a bit. 350 I reckon.
  • dcp1975
    dcp1975 Posts: 739
    i had to lie that i dont get out anymore rather than saying i desperately need £500 for my college course this September! :D
  • fumps
    fumps Posts: 227
    yeh man thats the reason why i'm comming back i have a son now & i have grown up alot.
    Now live in Rodley right next to the Leeds Liverpool canal 122 miles to Liverpool oooo 1 big play ground.....be a shame to waste it

    reet i'm off home catch ya later mate
    Arrrghhh it's worse than i thought!!!!!
  • dcp1975
    dcp1975 Posts: 739
    i hope i get a bit for it, its in top nick :wink:
  • ---*SD*---
    ---*SD*--- Posts: 51
    This would be a good starter :P
    zeldasigue1.gif
    ^^^Clicky ^^^
  • The reason I posed the ally/alloy question is that for a beginner on a low budget, especially if that budget means fully rigid, I reckon a chromo frame would be better than a nasty stiff bit of ally. :idea:
    Wheelies ARE cool.

    Zaskar X
  • windscale
    windscale Posts: 23
    Well, I guess it depends on your budget and your intended use I suppose.

    The problem generally is that cheap steel frames tend to be heavy since the exotic alloys, butting etc. to make them lighter make them much more expensive. From what I've seen, apart from "boutique" makes like Orange, pretty much all mountain bikes over £300 seem to be "alloy" frames.

    Admittedly I'm not 100% up to date but I can't imagine that tubing manufacturing costs and materials development have advanced to the point where they can knock out something like the MTB equivalent of a lightweight butted Reynolds 531 frame at sub £300. I've not looked much at stuff below £300 though.

    I have a cro-mo steel framed Marin Bear Valley SE circa 1996 but I hardly rode it because it was so darned heavy. And that was despite the fact that it's got rigid forks and the SE version was tricked out in alloy components. I've recently bought a Commencal Combi Hydro Disc with an "alloy" frame and the difference between the two is almost indescribable. When you are starting out you really appreciate a bike weighing as little as possible! Once you've got your legs you can start to look at the tradeoffs but you need to have something easy enough to ride in the first place to get you to that point.

    For a lot of the ranges (e.g. Gary Fisher, Kona, Giant) the frame on the £300 bikes is the same as that on the £700 bikes with the price difference being made up in more durable and lighter components as you spend more money.

    W.
  • Thinking about it with regards to the current climate, stainless steels have gone up massively in price over the last couple of years.

    I remember riding a rigid (expensive) ally hirebike in the highlands, and after one particularly long fast and rocky descent I couldn't hold on to the handlebars for the rest of the journey because my wrists were absolutely shot (and my ankles weren't much better).

    I've got an ally bike now, and it's a pretty stiff frame, but then it does have 100mm up front and a bouncy seatpost. :oops:
    Wheelies ARE cool.

    Zaskar X
  • hastings
    hastings Posts: 206
    Hi

    after saving my money up for a new bike the time has come to buy a new on because i have finally outgrown my old bike. I was looking for a bike that costs about £300 but my price range could be stretched a little. I stand at about 5 foot 9 inches and was thinking of maybe an 18 inch frame. The bike will mainly be used for XC and preferably would have disk brakes.

    any suggestions?
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    For size you nedd to test model by model, they vary. Have a look at the Mongoose tyax Elite at 280.
  • Seagull wrote:
    Don't forget about testing, no point having a good spec if it doesn't fit. A bike too small will give back pain, too big and it won't corner well and will hurt lots in a crash.

    Lol .... so coming off a smaller bike will hurt less?

    I like your logic. ;)
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Most awesome thread resurrection ever - 6 years. How the hell did you even find it.
    Let it die again, everything is somewhat outdated.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Clearly his quote from another post sums it up!
    After a break of many years.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • hi guys I`m very new to riding bikes ... my question is


    my forks are fubbered so I`m toying with the idea of rigid forks as I am using the bike for weight loss and comuting to work could anyone advise me on what rigid forks would be good for my bike


    Carrera Vulcan peak spec 207 iirc ideally need to be compatable with disc brakes as the bikes disc brake as standard
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Almost any rigid MTB fork with 1 1/8th steerer and disc mounts, but why on earth you though this was a sensible thread to put the question in is utterly beyond me, start a thread with a title that vaguely reflects what you want perhaps.

    I use some Mosso ones off ebay on my Carrera commuter, light, well made and they'll fit no problem.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.