Beginners bikes
supersonic
Posts: 82,708
One of the most common questions from beginners on a budget is 'how much shall I spend' or 'what is the minimum I should be looking at'? The componentry levels on bikes are often confusing to many, where certain parts can look very similar from one to another but yet can have a big impact on performance and longevity. The most important factor is fit and comfort which is where testing comes in, but this does not always give a full picture of the bike and how it may last.
I think for general mountain biking, the following features should be considered: (aimed at buyers spending less than 400 quid)
- Alloy hardtail frame. Full suspension at the lower end of the market (sub 300 and even upto 500 quid) is heavily compromised. Its very heavy, undamped, poor bearings and pulls down the spec elsewhere. Steel frames at this level are often mild steel and are 2 or 3 pounds heavier than an alloy frame.
- Suspension fork with alloy crown and one piece lowers. Cheap pressed steel lowers and crowns flex badly. Preload adjusters are a good feature to help set sag and ride height for differing weights, but most important is a hydraulic damping circuit. This controls the energy input into the fork, and adds grip and control.
- Compact crankset (42/32/22). Many entry level bikes have larger chainrings (48/38/28) from cheaper groupsets. This doesn't allow a very low gear and is often over geared for the terrain a MTB will be used on. Replacable chainrings are a bonus.
- 8 speed freehub. 8 gears from a cassette and freehub gives a better spread than some 7spd screw on freewheels, often 11-32 teeth rather than 14-28. Also this allows the bearings to be spaced further in the hub, allowing a stronger rear wheel/axle. Shimano make the best budget 8 speed set ups.
- Cartridge bottom bracket. Old adjustable cup and cone bottom brackets are poorly sealed and are prone to coming loose.
- 32 or 36 spoked wheels. Lots of beginners MTBs are coming with fancy 'paired' spokes, or 24 bladed ones, purely for looks. They use heavy rims, are poorly constructed and are not worth it compared to standard wheels. Look for stainless spokes if possible, and sealed alloy hubs with quick release axles.
- Alloy components. If possible, ask about the seatpost and bars. Alloy units save some weight, and are more comfortable.
- Brakes and levers. Make sure the levers aren't plastic as they flex badly. Cable disc brakes stop better in the wet but usually add cost. Don't go for discs over other essential features.
- Aheadset or threadless headset. Much better bearings and more reliable than the older quill stem and threaded headset.
Many bikes for 300 pounds now have all these features! Don't be afraid to ask for a saddle swap if they are uncomfortable, and enquire about the quality of the tyres..
I think for general mountain biking, the following features should be considered: (aimed at buyers spending less than 400 quid)
- Alloy hardtail frame. Full suspension at the lower end of the market (sub 300 and even upto 500 quid) is heavily compromised. Its very heavy, undamped, poor bearings and pulls down the spec elsewhere. Steel frames at this level are often mild steel and are 2 or 3 pounds heavier than an alloy frame.
- Suspension fork with alloy crown and one piece lowers. Cheap pressed steel lowers and crowns flex badly. Preload adjusters are a good feature to help set sag and ride height for differing weights, but most important is a hydraulic damping circuit. This controls the energy input into the fork, and adds grip and control.
- Compact crankset (42/32/22). Many entry level bikes have larger chainrings (48/38/28) from cheaper groupsets. This doesn't allow a very low gear and is often over geared for the terrain a MTB will be used on. Replacable chainrings are a bonus.
- 8 speed freehub. 8 gears from a cassette and freehub gives a better spread than some 7spd screw on freewheels, often 11-32 teeth rather than 14-28. Also this allows the bearings to be spaced further in the hub, allowing a stronger rear wheel/axle. Shimano make the best budget 8 speed set ups.
- Cartridge bottom bracket. Old adjustable cup and cone bottom brackets are poorly sealed and are prone to coming loose.
- 32 or 36 spoked wheels. Lots of beginners MTBs are coming with fancy 'paired' spokes, or 24 bladed ones, purely for looks. They use heavy rims, are poorly constructed and are not worth it compared to standard wheels. Look for stainless spokes if possible, and sealed alloy hubs with quick release axles.
- Alloy components. If possible, ask about the seatpost and bars. Alloy units save some weight, and are more comfortable.
- Brakes and levers. Make sure the levers aren't plastic as they flex badly. Cable disc brakes stop better in the wet but usually add cost. Don't go for discs over other essential features.
- Aheadset or threadless headset. Much better bearings and more reliable than the older quill stem and threaded headset.
Many bikes for 300 pounds now have all these features! Don't be afraid to ask for a saddle swap if they are uncomfortable, and enquire about the quality of the tyres..
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Comments
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Don't forget about testing, no point having a good spec if it doesn't fit. A bike too small will give back pain, too big and it won't corner well and will hurt lots in a crash.0
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Don't think any beginners dare scroll down this far lol0
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Just to clarify, when you say alloy, do you mean aluminium?Wheelies ARE cool.
Zaskar X0 -
MattBlackBigBoysBMX wrote:Just to clarify, when you say alloy, do you mean aluminium?
I think it's what he means although an alloy is a mixture of atleast two elements, one being a metal. Maybe "aluminium alloy" would be a better description???0 -
Yep, I mean aluminium: alloy seems to have become the generic term in the MTB world of aluminium!0
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In cycling, the phrase "alloy" almost always refers to a component made of an aluminium alloy. Typically the connotation is alloy = lightweight. This goes back at least as far as the '70s if not longer.
Often, a lot of the steels used are alloys too these days but I guess good old "Ally alloy" got there first.
W.0 -
Anyone remember the first production alloy MTB frame?!0
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Steel is an alloy by definition, its base element is iron.windscale wrote:Often, a lot of the steels used are alloys too these days but I guess good old "Ally alloy" got there first.0 -
True, and I suppose it can be confusing for the beginner which I am glad it has been raised. The MTB world does use the term specifically for aluminium alloys though.0
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Sonic, have you ridden the Mongoose Tyax Elite? You said you loved it the other day
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No! Haha. Seen one though, going purely on feedback and spec. Worked far too much with budget bikes, have a good eye for them now! But as ever, always test.0
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i am going to, gutted about selling my Rockhopper but i can manage for a few more weeks until i get another bike and TBH its looking like the Mongoose, how come they can sell it so cheap if its a very well specced bike??0
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It suprised me too. Some of the spec isnt that good, but what drew me to it was good geometry and that fork. Seeing a damped fork below 400 quid is a rarity, but below 300, that is adjustable is miraculous.
GT/Mongoose/pacific are a big company.0 -
Do you think they will up the price when they bring the 08 model out? I think its a good bike for £280 you dont mind throwing it around for that price 0
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I think the prices for a model are increasing in general, but the parts are getting better. The Avalanche 2.0 went up 30 quid, but gets hydro disc brakes.0
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Whats the Mongoose better than, in terms of £500+ bikes? ive read it beats some bikes almost twice the price, which is good for a budget bike.0
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SOme of the budget Konas, IMHO, are woeful.0
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Can anyone give me some advice then on my choices?
Looking at The Specialized "Hardrock sport disc" or the Scott "Reflex 45 Disc version"
both within my budget and i need something that's pretty much bomb proof the GT's are apparently nice but i just cant get into their looks (I know thats a snooty statement but i'm being honest)Arrrghhh it's worse than i thought!!!!!0 -
I bought a Hardrock Sport Disk a month ago and love it - I can confirm that it is pretty much bomb-proof too - have ridden mine hard - fast riding, drop offs + a few jumps. She aint light though and the fork isn't too hot - but the frame has a lifetime guarantee and everything else can be upgraded if and when necessary
Try as many out as you can though - there will be one that feels 'right'0 -
Nice one cheers for this.
THe scott is nice but it feels like the bike i had many moons ago (a Raleigh Amazon) which i loved because it just would'nt die, it survived me falling down a rock face and landing in a tree, so i loved it for what it was a tough bike.
And that's what i'm looking for now really a bike i can trust.
cheers fellaArrrghhh it's worse than i thought!!!!!0 -
No bike at this price is going to be indestructable: keep an eye on it, and keep it well maintained to get the best from it. Cranks and forks on the hardrock are good places to make upgrades.0
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Yes i always look after stuff well (Almost to an anal extent)
Thats why my older bike lasted so well.....but i just need a solid bike that will not fail me.
To be honest weight doe'nt worry me too much as long as it's not made of 15mm Angle iron..lolArrrghhh it's worse than i thought!!!!!0 -
Is the Mongoose worthy of future upgrades? and has it got a good frame to build on?0
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Its not usually the frames that give up the ghost - but bottom brackets, pedals, hubs, headsets which are all quite similar at this price. Shimano hubs are IMHO the toughest for this price and worth looking for, and try and stay away from ISIS and Powerspline bottombrackets. Again, an upgrade to Shimano here is beneficial if you are tough on parts.0
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The Gooses frame is OK - a bit industrial looking and not light, but no worse than the Hardrock which hides a lot of metal in its frame. None of these bikes are worth turning into lightweight fliers really, but a couple of good upgrades (esp as parts wear) can make a big difference. Tyres always good place to start.0
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i found that my Rockhopper was pretty much bomb proof it was a tough nut, the only thing that i didnt like was the low bb, i liked everything else, im going to test it though very important but at £280 who can argue??
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Sorry i missed that.....low bb?
I've been away a long time (Bands parties....women erm and alsorts of nasty additives)Arrrghhh it's worse than i thought!!!!!0 -
Low bottom bracket - good for stabilty, but more chance of clanking your pedals on rocks and roots.0
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Cheers Sonic....just realised where your from mate nice one.Arrrghhh it's worse than i thought!!!!!0
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The MTBing centre of the universe! The revolution started here lol.0
