Replacing Campagnolo groupset with Shimano

Just after a bit of reassurance and advice please, the ageing veloce groupset is to come off this weekend to be replaced with 105. I'm pretty happy with doing levers/derailliers cables etc, but have never tackled crank removal BB replacement etc.
Merlin sent me all of the parts includingd a BBR60 Bottom Bracket. I've looked at vids, but can't find one that looks exactly the same as my veloce crank/BB to get my head round removal. Is it a relatively straightforward process? are there any special tools that I will need? Any pitfalls I should look out for?
thanks in advance
Merlin sent me all of the parts includingd a BBR60 Bottom Bracket. I've looked at vids, but can't find one that looks exactly the same as my veloce crank/BB to get my head round removal. Is it a relatively straightforward process? are there any special tools that I will need? Any pitfalls I should look out for?
thanks in advance
All lies and jest..still a man hears what he wants to hear and disregards the rest....
0
Posts
Just ask the lbs and pay the 15 mins of their time - they don’t need to know what you are doing and you’re paying them for their labor.
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour
Didn't realise Veloce was available in UT...
Ultra-torque is easy, just undo the bolt and the two halves should pull right out - it's a hex head and I can't remember the size but it's smaller the the one needed for PT. It should be pretty tight so you might need something like and old seat post over the allen key handle for some leverage.
I use a normal allen key but insert the long section into the bolt head and place an old seatpost over the short section to provide some leaverage. Can get away with it due to the width of the allen key, wouldn't work with a narrower allen key.
There’s a spring clip around the outside of the drive side UT cup. You’ll need to remove this before pulling out the RH cranks arm.
Then the cranks will come off, then release clip and then just a matter or unscrewing the ultra torque cups and clean/grease threads before putting new one in?
What frame? Assume BB is English? Long as the new BB is the same you’re good.
De Sisti wrote:
This is one of the silliest threads I've come across.
Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour
Re the removal, it was a nightmare, the cups were seized solid, no amount of force and we tried everything could shift the drive side, a grinder and hacksaw with the help of someone a lot more careful and knowledgeable than me became the only solution. Alls well that ends well
It's not unusual to need to give the hollowtech cranks a tap with a mallet or similar to fully seat them. Alternatively if enough has gone through the non-drive side (sounds like it has) for you to fit the LHS crank arm AND for the bolt to engage with the threads on the spindle then simply tightening up the bolt should pull the crank in all the way. Remember not to over tighten the bolt, you just need to take up any slack. The pinch bolts are then tightened up to keep everything in place.
Ahh thanks I've tightened the left hand side bolt, but was wary of tightening too much as all of the info said it shouldn't take much tightening. I'll loosen everything and try tapping RH side through to get rid of the 2mm of axle showing and see if that works - ta
Stop that now!
It requires very little torque in my experience ie just turn the bolt tool by hand and as multiple threads are already engaged, very unlikely to strip threads. Of course common sense should be applied, if you are having to apply series effort to pull the crank in then somethings not right.
Also if you over tighten you can just back the bolt out a bit once the crank is fully home...
PS thanks to all for you help/advice, much appreciated
I thought this too.
Best VFM: Chorus.
W - Wiggle Honda
That aside, sometimes decisions are from the heart, not the head.
Got that thing together yet?
W - Wiggle Honda