Shorten SRAM Rival hydraulic hose

paulbnix
paulbnix Posts: 631
edited February 2018 in Workshop
My new Synapse has a SRAM Rival Hydro groupset.

Both front and rear brake hoses were a bit long when I got the bike but now I have fitted narrower and lower bars they are very long. I realise it doesn’t really affect anything but it’s an issue I’d like to tackle when I change back to the summer bike.

Looking online it appears that I can -
- drain the fluid
- remove the hose from the calliper
- cut the hose to length
- reattach to the caliper
- fill and bleed

So it looks like I will need a SRAM bleed kit and a hose cutter such as https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/tools/bike-hand-hydraulic-disc-brake-hose-cutter/

Can I reuse the fittings from the caliper?
If not can I get replacements without buying a full hose kit?

Comments

  • trekvet
    trekvet Posts: 223
    Basically I would undo the nut, slide it up hose and fix with sellotape. Cut hose to new length, fit new olive, fit hose in caliper, slide down nut and tighten. Bleed, etc.
    The Wife complained for months about the empty pot of bike oil on the hall stand; so I replaced it with a full one.
  • paulbnix
    paulbnix Posts: 631
    TrekVet wrote:
    Basically I would undo the nut, slide it up hose and fix with sellotape. Cut hose to new length, fit new olive, fit hose in caliper, slide down nut and tighten. Bleed, etc.
    Thanks.
    A couple of questions-
    I don’t need to drain first?
    Where do I get the new olive from?
  • wheeledwidewebb
    wheeledwidewebb Posts: 254
    Make sure you get the ‘Professional’ avid/Sram bleed kit, normally you get inserts and olives included.

    No need to drain but be aware that you need to take precautions to ensure spilt fluid doesn’t get on anything that might be damaged. Definitely remove disc pads and rotors/wheels. Sram use dot fluid, not the easier to clean-up mineral oil!

    Pipe can be cut with decent cable cutters, like Park ones.

    Watch SRAM YouTube videos regarding bleeding, then watch again, then watch again etc.
  • luv2ride
    luv2ride Posts: 2,367
    Have to admit, I got the LBS to shorten my (Shimano) hoses at the same time as replacing the bars - I would've done the bars myself but wasnt sure about doing to hoses. Think they only charged £25 for the whole job, inc wrapping new bar tape. When i picked it up, they'd also fitted some nifty cable spacers to stop them rubbing together, and shortened gear cables and re-indexed everything. Main issue before was the long hoses and cables were causing internal rattles which drove me batty, so going to the LBS was also part of getting that resolved by someone who knewvwhat they were doing (I.e. not me, as my first bike with internal cable routing and hydro discs). Happy to say the front end now looks super neat, and the internal rattling has gone. After reading some posts in the workshop section I'm pretty sure I wouidnt have done as good a job as the LBS on this one..
    Titus Silk Road Ti rigid 29er - Scott Solace 10 disc - Kinesis Crosslight Pro6 disc - Scott CR1 SL - Pinnacle Arkose X 650b - Pinnacle Arkose singlespeed - Specialized Singlecross...& an Ernie Ball Musicman Stingray 4 string...
  • wheeledwidewebb
    wheeledwidewebb Posts: 254
    It’s easy enough once you get stuck in but getting it done for £25 is a no brainer.
  • paulbnix
    paulbnix Posts: 631
    Luv2ride wrote:
    ... Main issue before was the long hoses and cables were causing internal rattles which drove me batty...
    When I saw the long hoses and the internal routing on the Synapse I immediately thought "rattle".
    I've had to fix that issue on another bike.

    But this one is blissfully silent so I'll leave it alone until it gets retired for the summer. By then I should know how to do it.

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