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New roadist.

rampage7110rampage7110 Posts: 89
edited April 2017 in Road beginners
Evening. I've just bought my first road bike.

Trek 1.2 Alpha 2015
Seems good, but the mech hanger is bent, so I'll need a new one, hopefully this will solve the poor gear shifting.

I've checked chain wear and its 1 on my park gauge, so this will need replacing as well.

What are some good but cheap clipless pedals to use on the road?

Thanks.

Posts

  • Also is there much difference between road and mtb clipless pedals?
  • MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    Look Keos will fit your bill perfectly: not the Easy ones but the first one in the range with tension adjustment.

    About £30, really easy to use, light, last forever, come with cleats.

    Job jobbed.
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • shortfallshortfall Posts: 3,287
    ∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆∆

    What he said above. Had several versions over the years, all been totally reliable and have bearings that remain smooth forever. Even if they weren't cheap I'd still buy them.
  • Craig0657Craig0657 Posts: 24
    If your on a super tight budget it might be worth looking on eBay, a few of the guys I ride with have brought Chinese SPD-SL pedals and swear they feel exactly the same as shimano ones.
  • fat daddyfat daddy Posts: 2,605
    Also is there much difference between road and mtb clipless pedals?


    they both do the same thing and you can use MTB pedals on a road bike ... which is useful if like me you have other MTBs all with spd's on them, then sticking spd pedals on the road bikes means the shoes are interchangeable
  • yiannismyiannism Posts: 345
    I drive road and MTB, i use on my road MTB pedals so one pair of shoes for both bikes, they are heavier but you can actually walk if needed with the MTB shoes, something that is hard with the road bike's. Plus the MTB pedals are way more adjustable as far as about the tension that you lock your shoes, and easier to unclip if needed. Just have in mind that you will fall, its the faith of everyone who use them for 1st time.
  • MatthewfalleMatthewfalle Posts: 17,380
    Alternatively, Exustar from Planet X: not light but bombproof, really nice tight spring retention, £9 without cleats, £13 with.

    I have them on the foul weather bike and they utterly rock for that money.
    Postby team47b » Sun Jun 28, 2015 11:53 am

    De Sisti wrote:
    This is one of the silliest threads I've come across. :lol:

    Recognition at last Matthew, well done!, a justified honour :D
    smithy21 wrote:

    He's right you know.
  • Also is there much difference between road and mtb clipless pedals?

    -Slight difference in weight
    - different shaped cleats
    - mtb pedals are double sided. While road pedals can only be clipped into on one side. Setting off takes getting used to, pedalling with one leg (just don't stop) while trying to flip the other pedal over with the other foot. That's why some recommend mtb pedals for beginners.
    "The Prince of Wales is now the King of France" - Calton Kirby
  • jgsijgsi Posts: 5,031
    Double sided MTB pedals like Ritchie brand, are ideal for commuting/urban work with lots of stopping and starting involved. I'm really not into hipster track standing with the eventual one day scenario of catching a kerb. a gust of wind and then headbutting a £60,000 Lexus.
  • JoshgavJoshgav Posts: 158
    I've a got a pair of Look Keos which I'm going to stick in the classifieds today for £20 including cleats. Switching all bikes to Shimano.
  • Thanks, I will use my MTB pedals then!

    I couldn't find the correct mech hanger on eBay, but upon looking through my spare parts I found 13 of the correct ones! I just need to anodise it black now.

    Also found some cranks and a chainring I'd found in a bargain bin some years ago. So they will likely go on if I can find a 30mm threaded bb for them.

    I'm going to replace all the cables and bar tape.

    Thanks.




    image.jpg

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  • I wouldn't bother anodising the hanger - no one will ever be looking at it.

    Looks like that crank is for a BB30 arrangement?? I don't think that's what you'll have in the Trek.
  • k-dogk-dog Posts: 1,652
    You'll be wanting one of these - http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/roto ... 7C468578UK

    Seems a bad idea though - you'll not notice the extra stiffness from the larger axle and the smaller bearings don't seem clever.
    I'm left handed, if that matters.
  • I can't decide if I should change the cranks or not, yes that's the BB I'll need.
    Hanger is being anodized as it annoys me :p
    I'll see if there's anything else to anodise while I'm at it....
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