Servicing your road bike

mason5697 · May 2016

Currently doing around 80 - 100 miles a week on my new Road bike. How often should I be servicing the bike, and what parts. Pretty new to cycling as of January, but been informed that regular servicing is essential.

Was also told by a staff member in a national chain that due to chain wear that a chain will only do 500 - 600 miles... Didn't sound like a lot of use out of a chain to me. If so, do you get better chains that will be good for a lot more miles.

Thanks.

homers_double · May 2016

Haha, blates trying to sell you spares, a chain will do well over 3k if it's lubed regularly.

fenix · May 2016

What shop was that ? Ridiculous.

debeli · May 2016

In comparison with cars and motorcycles, bicycles are very simple and easy to work on.

But they do need attention, not least because many of the moving parts are hanging out in the rain, wind, grit and weather. 600 miles for a chain is most unlikely. It is usually measured in thousands.

First: Tyres do not hold their pressure. Get yourself a decent track pump (£30-ish) and check your pressures on the gauge at least weekly. Squeeze the tyres before getting on the bike, as this will give a rough indication of pressure loss. Pick up each end of the bike and spin the wheel through your fingers to check for glass or shards stuck in the tyre. If you are a slightly compulsive type, this will become a nuisance, but do it fairly often.

Secondly, Chain and gears: These are (up to a point) a mechanical dichotomy. They need to be lubed, but if lubed they pick up grit and wear out. Put the bike on a stand or flip it onto its seat and bars and give the chain a good wipe. If it's super-gritty, get a toothbrush into it. Same with the cassette, chain rings and derailleurs. Re-lube the chain and then wipe, wipe, wipe any excess oil off. This rarely needs to be done in good weather, but in wet or gritty times it needs to be done weekly-ish.

Thirdly: Cables. Get the tension right and make sure the cables aren't dry or oxidising. Then just keep an eye on them. This goes for brakes as well as gears.

Fourthly: Wheels and brakes. Rims should be straight (true) and spokes ought all to play roughly the same note if twanged. Bearings should be quiet and 'spinny'. Brakes wear out when they wear out - you can't put a time on them.

Other stuff: Crank and steering bearings are very long-lasting and just need to have an eye kept on them.

Get yourself some simple tools - allen keys, cone spanners, chain splitter - and build from there. If something is noisy or grinding or clunking, look for a video on Youtube and follow the advice.

That was a long and dull post, but it will get you started.

mason5697 · May 2016

Debeli wrote:

In comparison with cars and motorcycles, bicycles are very simple and easy to work on.

But they do need attention, not least because many of the moving parts are hanging out in the rain, wind, grit and weather. 600 miles for a chain is most unlikely. It is usually measured in thousands.

First: Tyres do not hold their pressure. Get yourself a decent track pump (£30-ish) and check your pressures on the gauge at least weekly. Squeeze the tyres before getting on the bike, as this will give a rough indication of pressure loss. Pick up each end of the bike and spin the wheel through your fingers to check for glass or shards stuck in the tyre. If you are a slightly compulsive type, this will become a nuisance, but do it fairly often.

Secondly, Chain and gears: These are (up to a point) a mechanical dichotomy. They need to be lubed, but if lubed they pick up grit and wear out. Put the bike on a stand or flip it onto its seat and bars and give the chain a good wipe. If it's super-gritty, get a toothbrush into it. Same with the cassette, chain rings and derailleurs. Re-lube the chain and then wipe, wipe, wipe any excess oil off. This rarely needs to be done in good weather, but in wet or gritty times it needs to be done weekly-ish.

Thirdly: Cables. Get the tension right and make sure the cables aren't dry or oxidising. Then just keep an eye on them. This goes for brakes as well as gears.

Fourthly: Wheels and brakes. Rims should be straight (true) and spokes ought all to play roughly the same note if twanged. Bearings should be quiet and 'spinny'. Brakes wear out when they wear out - you can't put a time on them.

Other stuff: Crank and steering bearings are very long-lasting and just need to have an eye kept on them.

Get yourself some simple tools - allen keys, cone spanners, chain splitter - and build from there. If something is noisy or grinding or clunking, look for a video on Youtube and follow the advice.

That was a long and dull post, but it will get you started.

Many thanks mate. Very informative. Figured out the tyre pressure one pretty quick after a few pinch punctures and got a track pump. Was mainly the other things I was concerned about. Especially the chain situation. Didn't want to go ruining the cassette or chain rings.

A chain checker and the park chain degrease tools are on my to buy list. Already got good Allen keys and spanner sets.

I'll not name and shame the store. But there's not many big chains to choose from

homers_double · May 2016

Evans above, you don't need a chain gauge. 12 inches across 12 links will see you right.

navrig2 · May 2016

Give it an occasional clean but avoid hi-pressure hoses and jet washes, especially around the bearings in your wheels and the bottom bracket.

I find the occasional deep clean of the chain with some degreaser helps and for that I take the chain off. I use KMC quick links and a pair pf pliers design to help release the quick link. Keep the degreaser away from the bearings too.

Check the wear on your brake blocks and when they wear down replace them - not a difficult job. Don't buy the cheapest brake blocks either. Have a search on here for options - there are several threads which cover this, just set aside some time for along read.

Use the workshop forum to help with more complex issues and if you get a creak or a squeak or a groan be patient.

AllezAllezAllez · May 2016

My experience:

1, Find a good independent local bike shop. I've tried Evans and they charge a fortune for simple jobs and often it's not much better than what you could of done. My LBS seems to have a flat rate of £10 for most one off jobs, plus parts (which are a reasonable price).

2, In Winter/after wet rides I give my bike a good clean. In the past, I was lazy and would leave my bike dirty/wet in the garage. This only lead to a rusty unloved bike. Now I clean, dry and lube my bikes after every wet ride and they are as good as new. It now takes me about 30 minutes to wash and dry my bike.

3, I change my chain and cassette once a year. This is an easy job I do myself and only takes 30 minutes or so. The parts are very cheap from Wiggle etc.

4, I get my bikes serviced once a year by my local bike shop. The service was £60 plus parts and it felt like new. This time round the shop changed my cables and new bar tape which makes the bike feel like new. I have changed my own bar tape before, but it's never 100% right.

5, Tackle little jobs as they happen. In the past I would wait, but now if I need something sorted I do it straight away. This way you can spread the cost and the bike works well all year round.

6, Have a go at simple jobs. I've changed bottom brackets, greased bearings and as mentioned changed my own chains/cassettes. Utube has loads of films showing you "how to"....personally I like GCN.

7, Components wear out so try and budget for bike maintenance. New tires, inner tubes, brake pads, cleaning products etc.

There is nothing better than a clean and smooth machine!

iPete · May 2016

Plenty of good advise above. Best thing I did was buy a work stand and full toolkit and with a competent mate, who knew his stuff, worked together to build a bike from the ground up.

Now you don't need to do this but getting all the right tools and doing jobs as and when required is a good way to learn and there is a lot of good advice and helpful videos online.

I've been using this tool set for the last 5 years, although I've added plenty of other items and replaced a few, they've all paid for themselves maybe 10 times over.
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-perfor ... -tool-kit/

Another tip, always over order, it's a good idea to have spare tyres/chains/cables/pads, etc. on hand, that way you'll never miss a ride if something goes wrong unexpectedly.

ForumNewbie · May 2016

You shouldn't need to change your cassette every time you change your chain, providing you keep an eye on your chain and change it when necessary by checking with a chain tool.

ElectronShepherd · May 2016

Other things to add:

Periodically take the wheels off and check the brake pads for contamination (not wear as such). A small piece of grit embedded in the pad can ruin an expensive wheel. You can either sand the braking surface down, or replace the pads (both much cheaper than a new rim or entire wheel).

Make sure you have a pump, spare tube and patches every time you go out. Easiest thing to do is put them in a saddlebag that you leave on the bike, so you can't forget them.

At home, using only the tools in your saddlebag, change an inner tube and pump up the tyre. Then you can be sure that everything works and you actually have the right tools and can use them, and if you run into problems, you're not stuck 20 miles from home.

Finally, on a more sombre note, consider putting your name, address and phone number on a piece of paper in the saddle bag. That way, if you do come a cropper somewhere and it's serious, the emergency services know who to contact.

simon_masterson · May 2016

AllezAllezAllez wrote:

My experience:

1, Find a good independent local bike shop. I've tried Evans and they charge a fortune for simple jobs and often it's not much better than what you could have done. My LBS seems to have a flat rate of £10 for most one off jobs, plus parts (which are a reasonable price).

2, In Winter/after wet rides I give my bike a good clean. In the past, I was lazy and would leave my bike dirty/wet in the garage. This only lead to a rusty unloved bike. Now I clean, dry and lube my bikes after every wet ride and they are as good as new. It now takes me about 30 minutes to wash and dry my bike.

3, I change my chain and cassette once a year. This is an easy job I do myself and only takes 30 minutes or so. The parts are very cheap from Wiggle etc.

4, I get my bikes serviced once a year by my local bike shop. The service was £60 plus parts and it felt like new. This time round the shop changed my cables and new bar tape which makes the bike feel like new. I have changed my own bar tape before, but it's never 100% right.

5, Tackle little jobs as they happen. In the past I would wait, but now if I need something sorted I do it straight away. This way you can spread the cost and the bike works well all year round.

6, Have a go at simple jobs. I've changed bottom brackets, greased bearings and as mentioned changed my own chains/cassettes. Utube has loads of films showing you "how to"....personally I like GCN.

7, Components wear out so try and budget for bike maintenance. New tires, inner tubes, brake pads, cleaning products etc.

There is nothing better than a clean and smooth machine!

So you recommend having a go at simple jobs but you'll pay £60 to have your bar tape and cables changed?

cycleclinic · May 2016

Chains will be well worn at 3000 miles normally. Chains shoupd get changed when they worn according to a wear indicator. Beyond that the cassette will wear quite quickly and shifting detoriates eventually the chain will break. I change my chains every 1500 miles or so. In winter i sometkmes get only 800 miles from a chain. On my mtb's sometimes i get 200 and its shagged. Riding conditions, riding style, chainline e.t.c all have an impact. I am changing my chains earlier so i dont have to chnage my casette as well. Leaving you chain for longer will mean you will chanhing the chain and cassete together.

Bearing if they are the cartidge type shoild be changed whe they are worn and no sooner. Cup and cone bearong should be inspected and serviced (i.e new balls) at regular intervals.

Chnages cables whe they feel gritty.

itboffin · May 2016

Second best thing after riding is fettling closely followed by shopping for cycling related stuff

AllezAllezAllez · May 2016

Simon Masterson wrote:

AllezAllezAllez wrote:

My experience:

1, Find a good independent local bike shop. I've tried Evans and they charge a fortune for simple jobs and often it's not much better than what you could have done. My LBS seems to have a flat rate of £10 for most one off jobs, plus parts (which are a reasonable price).

2, In Winter/after wet rides I give my bike a good clean. In the past, I was lazy and would leave my bike dirty/wet in the garage. This only lead to a rusty unloved bike. Now I clean, dry and lube my bikes after every wet ride and they are as good as new. It now takes me about 30 minutes to wash and dry my bike.

3, I change my chain and cassette once a year. This is an easy job I do myself and only takes 30 minutes or so. The parts are very cheap from Wiggle etc.

4, I get my bikes serviced once a year by my local bike shop. The service was £60 plus parts and it felt like new. This time round the shop changed my cables and new bar tape which makes the bike feel like new. I have changed my own bar tape before, but it's never 100% right.

5, Tackle little jobs as they happen. In the past I would wait, but now if I need something sorted I do it straight away. This way you can spread the cost and the bike works well all year round.

6, Have a go at simple jobs. I've changed bottom brackets, greased bearings and as mentioned changed my own chains/cassettes. Utube has loads of films showing you "how to"....personally I like GCN.

7, Components wear out so try and budget for bike maintenance. New tires, inner tubes, brake pads, cleaning products etc.

There is nothing better than a clean and smooth machine!

So you recommend having a go at simple jobs but you'll pay £60 to have your bar tape and cables changed?

£60 was a full service, including cables and tape.....

DavidJB · May 2016

600 miles

I change my training bike chain every six months and could no doubt go longer...I do about 800-1000 miles a month.

teebs_123 · May 2016

Component wear does depend upon riding style, rider weight and riding conditions.
I've had 3,600 miles out of the same tyres, chain and brake pads. Chain cleaned regularly, pads cleared of metal pieces and I've only suffered 1 puncture with the tyres.
Bikes and components are more robust than the industry want us to believe, I wonder why?

I've found out the hard way about component wear and subsequent damage, especially in winter on chain rings.

CiB · May 2016

I used to put a new chain on at about 1500 miles, then put the old one back on at ~3000 so that a part-worn chain on a part-worn cassette & rings wasn't as bad as a new chain on a p/w cassette. Then put the 2nd chain back on at about the same distance later. A pair of chains & a cassette would easily get to 6000 miles and still be quite usable; by that time you're on the way to a whole new drive set so I just ran it into the ground, which would be a good chunk longer anyway. 600 miles is just taking the pee.

Everything else is just cleaning & lubing, and checking things are as tight as they need to be. It's only a bike; cars have a service, bikes just need looking after.

Clean it when you can be bothered to after a wet ride, or don't but squirt some aerosol-type lube at it when you next ride it. Clean the rims as often as you feel like it and before they start to make a noise under braking. Occasionally decide you ought to drip some oil down the brake & gear outers to keep the cables moving freely, and once every so often maybe some time in the spring when there's a test match on and it's raining where you are, strip the whole bike to its constituent parts, clean everything to look like new, apply lube where you normally can't get to it easily then put it all back together again.

Servicing your road bike

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