cycling newbie after some advice

gkirky
gkirky Posts: 4
edited September 2015 in MTB workshop & tech
hello all,
my names george, this is my first post on the website or any other so im sorry if its in the wrong place. i started riding on and off road about a month ago and really enjoyed it, the only problem was my bike, i mean it was a cheap-as-chips car boot jobby and i dont mind admitting it is sh*t haha! as i enjoyed riding i though an upgrade was in order, though being a student unfortunatly money is lacking. i have bought myself a kona blast ( not sure of age as i bought it on eBay) and it seems perfect for me, although i want it to be reliable so i would like to replace some of the parts that are looking worn.
firstly the chain slips occasionally, so i thought it would be best to replace the chain, front and back sprocket (or would it be easier to just buy a new rear wheel and front sprocket??)
i have had a look online for these, but it seem i need a little more bike knowledge before i buy the wrong parts. currently i have 21 ( 3X7 ) gears on my bike, so would i be right in thinking i need a 7 speed bike chain? and also does it matter what chain i buy, as i can see they vary in price?
With the back sprocket (or do you call it a cassette?!) im assuming i would need a 7 speed again..? had a quick look on halfrauds website and i dont really know what the 12 - 28T means but would i need something like this?

http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-parts/gears-drivetrain-cables/shimano-cs-hg20-7-speed-cassette-12-28t

(i know this is a very cheap one, and i would rather get one thats a bit more expensive and will last longer, this is just an example)

ill leave it there for now as im asking a lot of questions and could probably do with something to read before i go much further, well thanks for reading and hopefully ill get a few replies,
george

Comments

  • i'd just get a new 7 speed cassette and chain . you'll need some special tools to fit them though
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Also depends if your hub is a freewheel or freehub.
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  • Also depends if your hub is a freewheel or freehub.


    Hello, thanks for the reply, I don't really know what this means so how can I tell? I can upload o photo when I'm back from work if that helps?
    George
  • Also depends if your hub is a freewheel or freehub.


    Hello, thanks for the reply, I don't really know what this means so how can I tell? I can upload o photo when I'm back from work if that helps?
    George

    have a read of this:
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html
  • Also, 12-28t for example is the number of teeth on the smallest and largest of the sprockets on the cassette.
    As the teeth are all equally gapped, this tells you the size of the smallest and largest cogs.

    So for example if you wanted a higher top gear, you may want to look for an 11-xx t... or if you want an easier gear at the low end, the larger cog might be better as a xx-32t or even 34t.

    It's worth counting the teeth on your existing smallest and largest sprockets, and if in doubt just get one the same.
    A potential issue is if the largest sprocket is a lot bigger than the original, the derailleur *may* not be able to handle it, and could struggle to shift to the slackest gear.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Maybe, but old mechs often don't have the capacity for big cogs, and even if they do can feel horrible.

    I have 12/28 on my old 8 speed Explosif, and even with a 24 granny can get up anything because it's so light.
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  • mattyfez
    mattyfez Posts: 638
    edited September 2015
    Just one last thing, I wouldn't be in a rush to replace the front chain rings, they don't tend to wear out as fast as chains and cassettes, so replace the chain and cassette first, then adjust the rear derailleur if needed and see where you are at.
  • Maybe, but old mechs often don't have the capacity for big cogs, and even if they do can feel horrible.

    I have 12/28 on my old 8 speed Explosif, and even with a 24 granny can get up anything because it's so light.

    Yeh agreed, on a 7 speed if you go 11-32 even if you can find one, the gaps between the ratios might be a bit long,resulting in too big a jump between gears. And as you rightly point out, the derailleur may not be capable of shifting the chain to a much bigger cog.

    I think my 8 speed cassette is 11-32, but there's barely any difference between the 32 and the next sprocket, presumably a 28 but I've not checked... When in the granny front ring.
  • thanks for all the replies guys, ive had a look and from what i can tell i have a cassette, heres a picture by the sounds of it, its not that easy to change one of these so would it be best to get a shop to fit it for me? also ive had a look and was wondering if i need to worry about replacing the plastic cogs on the rear derailer? looks a little worn i think Lastly i got a puncture yesterday and when i went to remove the rear wheel i noticed that the part of the wheel that you unscrew is very worn and needs replacing, whats this part called?
    thanks again,
    george
  • The plastic cogs are cheap and easy to replace, but I would say a secondary consideration to sorting the rest out. They are more to keep tension on the chain in slacker gears.

    If there's a lot of sideways play in them, or if the teeth are worn to the point the chain slips on them then replace, but you need to get the chain off to have a proper poke at that, so I would inspect them more closely when you get a new chain and cassette.

    Kmc chains come with quite a nifty split link so it's easy to remove the chain for maintenance.. no big deal to replace the plastic cogs (jockey wheels as they are known) afterwards if money is an issue.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    That is a cassette, jockey wheels look fine - when they are like throwing stars they are finished.

    Those are nuts.
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