Rockshox recon silver Turnkey

concorde
concorde Posts: 1,008
edited June 2013 in MTB beginners
Hi,

Got a 120mm coil version of this fork. I don't get more than 80on travel but I put that down to the spring being too hard.

Question is... Recently the rebound damping doesn't seem to be working. It's just as fast coming back up whether damping is on full or the complete opposite.

Any ideas why this could be? They're about 5months old and have done about 400miles.

Need a service? Is this easy to do myself?

Cheers

Comments

  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    The rockshox service manuals are on the SRAM / rockshox website and they are really good. You should be able to service the damper yourself. Just make sure you have a nice clean work bench. I use Muc Off disc brake cleaner to clean the internals as it's alcohol based and won't cause any damage. Make sure you use a lint free cloth for cleaning parts, bits of tissue or bits of rag will mess up your damper. TF Tuned sell a lube specifically for lowers and you will need oil for the dampers and probably a set of lower seals.
    I serviced the dual air spring in my Pikes last week and it's surprisingly easy if you follow the service manual instructions. Two good rides and they are still holding air...
  • concorde
    concorde Posts: 1,008
    Cheers, just been reading the service manual. Looks ok, prob take me a while with being careful but should get there. So if I couldn't be bothered with servicing the seals and just wanted to remove the lowers and service the rebound damper bath. What would be on my shopping list?

    Lint free cloth
    Muc off disc brake cleaner
    ???
    ???
  • bartimaeus
    bartimaeus Posts: 1,812
    5wt oil and a syringe - the TK damper takes 147ml +/- 3ml, and when they say "Oil volume is critical. Too much oil reduces available travel, too little oil decreases damping performance." they mean it.
    Vitus Sentier VR+ (2018) GT Grade AL 105 (2016)
    Giant Anthem X4 (2010) GT Avalanche 1.0 (2010)
    Kingley Vale and QECP Trail Collective - QECP Trail Building
  • concorde
    concorde Posts: 1,008
    Ok cheers,

    5wt oil, lint free cloth and muc off disc brake cleaner added to the shopping list.

    :-)
  • concorde
    concorde Posts: 1,008
    Is it the turnkey damper part I'm changing oil in for the rebound? Thought the turnkey was the compression?!

    what do I know?!

    This oil ok? in 5wt

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mobile/MobileModels.aspx?ModelID=8399
  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    The turnkey damper is nothing to do with the rebound. Check the manual for the rebound oil type and quantity.
    You will also need oil for the lowers (see manual for type & quantity, may be different in each leg). If the lower seals are in good condition you can just clean them, soak the foam seal in oil and re fit them.
    I would also recommend using latex (or similar) gloves.
    I got a big roll of lint free cloth from Homebase http://www.homebase.co.uk/webapp/wcs/st ... ber=392079

    Make sure you have a container to drain the old oil in to and something to put small parts in to when you remove them.
    One tip I was given (by a suspension technician) was that cleanliness is essential when re-building forks. Leave no trace of dirt or cloth etc in the fork and make sure every component looks like new when you re-fit it. Take your time & do it right. I quite enjoy servicing forks.
    Do a good job and your fork will feel like new.
  • concorde
    concorde Posts: 1,008
    Lol too confusing! I thought the turnkey was nothing to do with the rebound but with the post mentioning turnkey it confused me. just looked at the table in the manual, says 5wt for upper, 15wt for lower. No idea what I need so I'll not bother
  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    The 5wt oil in the upper is for the rebound damper and the oil for the lower is just poured in the lower legs to lubricate the bushes and seals. Read the manual, it explains it all very well.
  • concorde
    concorde Posts: 1,008
    Have had a quick read. Didn't get it. so I'll need both oils then. Says something about hollow lowers too, don't know if mine are!
  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    They are. You need 147ml of 5wt to service the damper and then when you have finished that and you are re-assembling the fork you need 6ml of 15wt in the damper leg and 10ml of 15wt in the spring leg.
    There will be one section in the manual on how to do a lower service which includes the lube in the lower legs and cleaning the seals and another separate section for how to service the damper.
  • concorde
    concorde Posts: 1,008
    Ok makes a little more sense I guess lol! Cheers, will have a better read when I get in and see if I get it.

    So I'll be buying 5wt and 15wt oil. does it have to be rockshox stuff?

    also some cloth, syringe and alcohol spray and I'm good to go?
  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    No, any suspension oil will do the job.
  • concorde
    concorde Posts: 1,008
    Ok cheers, I'll get some rock oil that I seen on ChainreactionCycles I think.
  • concorde
    concorde Posts: 1,008
    edited June 2013
    :lol::lol::lol: .
  • concorde
    concorde Posts: 1,008
    Bartimaeus wrote:
    5wt oil and a syringe - the TK damper takes 147ml +/- 3ml, and when they say "Oil volume is critical. Too much oil reduces available travel, too little oil decreases damping performance." they mean it.

    I found this to be the case. On my first go I used a 20ml syringe so was counting how many times I'd put oil in the damper. Obivously the margin for error with this is much bigger than using a jug or a bigger syringe!

    First go I messed up and must have put 1 20ml syringe too much in, it was coming out of the top! Haha

    Second go I thought I'd be a bit conservative, I still have no damping!

    I was going to get it done by a shop, as I have North Wales in two weeks and want it to be running sweet.

    I enquired about it yesterday and they said it's likely that the cartridge could be broken. Is this likely?

    What I think I'm going to do is, have a go at servicing it myself again. While I'm at it, is ther anyway I can check if the damper is broken? What am I looking for?

    Cheers