Pedal bob
Comments
-
Yes. I only ever use it on tarmac or smooth climbs and if climbing in the saddle often not then. I ride Trailquests so the bike has to cope with a wide range of surfaces but not too much black route stuff. I run with 1/4 to 1/3 sag. Seat heght is much the same as my road bike for power and speed on the fast stuff, I have to put up with it on descents. I do get a bit of pedal induced bob on the granny ring but not enough to matter. As I said good gear choice will help. You may be better on the middle ring and a larger cog rather than the granny and a small one.When you say you don't need pro-pedal while in the seat, are you saying you leave the valve open all the time?0 -
Hi John T, obviously you are going to be the best judge of what works for you, but based on your description, I don't think you are getting the best out of your RP23.
I would personally set it up so that I was getting the desired output for most of the trail riding with pro-pedal on, and then use the open valve setting for DH sections.0 -
I have played with it quite a lot at first and have ended up with my present settings. I run 15mm of sag on a 50mm shock (115psi). Rebound damping is set on the light side of centre and the Pro-pedal is on setting 2. I am getting full travel during most rides with no obvious bottoming out. If I forget to switch the Pro-pedal off on a bumpy section it is very harsh and only really controls big hits. As basicaly I never notice the suspension working I have no complaints at all.diy wrote:Hi John T, obviously you are going to be the best judge of what works for you, but based on your description, I don't think you are getting the best out of your RP23.
I would personally set it up so that I was getting the desired output for most of the trail riding with pro-pedal on, and then use the open valve setting for DH sections.
I had a Marin East Peak before with a Fox Float Vanilla shock. The only way I could stop that bobbing was by reducing sag and carefull gear use. The Santa Cruz has been a revelation in spite of a similar swing arm set-up.
To the OP. The less adjustment you have on the shock the more compromises you will have to make between plush and bob. And as said before some bikes are better than others.0 -
Going back to the issue of pedalling technique I noticed something weird when riding my wife's hardtail bike the other day. It was the first time I'd riddent a hardtail for years after owning a full susser for around a decade. It felt like the bike was almost bobbing with each pedal stroke. I was looking down at the bike trying to work out what was going on. It was a really weird feeling. I guess this must be down to my pedalling technique being used to movement in the rear end? Obviously there was nothing wrong with the bike at least.
Also read something about chain torque effecting pedal where certain gears bring out the problem more than others. Might experiment with taking another link out of my chain to increase tension slightly. Not sure what difference this will make but would be interesting to see. I think I may not have taken out enough links when installing the chain for the first time. I was worried I'd take out to many & then have to faff around putting things right. Better to be safe than sorry
0 -
Shortening the chain will make no difference as you are not chainging the tension in the top run of chain.0
-
Not changing the tension, or the force vector in fact.0
-
Right. So the chain idea is a non starter then
Sod it! I'll live with the bob until I can afford a Fox RP23 0 -
Yes. It is the difference between the chain line on the vertical axis in different gears and the line between the swing arm pivot and the rear axle that affects pedal created bob. For VPP frames it is the VPP and the axle (and on some not even that). The closer these are together the less bob should be created so carefull gear use can help.dogboy73 wrote:Right. So the chain idea is a non starter then
Sod it! I'll live with the bob until I can afford a Fox RP23
Not much help with the bob created by body movement and pedaling style. Three things will help here.
1/ Improve your style.
2/ Fit a good platform shock.
3/ Change the frame. Not really practical this one but some are much better than others as I found going from my Marin East Peak to a Santa Cruz Superlight. They look very similar but do not perform at all the same.0 -
Yep, those few mm that make the difference.John.T wrote:They look very similar but do not perform at all the same.
Different bikes, it should be noted, seem to be optimised for different gears as well. One bike might work great for big ring hammering, another for steady granny ring twiddling.0 -
It is all to do with the amount of anti squat generated.0
